I have tested Titebond Melamine glue and it is essentially the same thing as our old PVE glue. It works about as well and acts the same, I suspect it is simply a version of PVE.
I also tested Gorilla Glue Clear. This requires dampening the wood before applying the part with a coating of glue. In my test it bonded as well as or better than anything else. This product doesn't foam or expand.
If you promise not to tell anyone I will admit to frequently using Weldwood Contact Cement for keytops, especially on old uprights and ivory. In my experience Contact Cement has a 20 year lifespan, after which it dries, becomes brittle and will detach, though after 20 years you can claim to not know anything about who used it way back then. It also tends to darken key tops a bit and will show through more than PVE glue.
Personally, after scraping off CA glue from dozens and dozens of badly applied key tops I never use the stuff for keytops. It has its place, but its not for me.
Properly applied hide glue might just be one of the best adhesives out there. Those glue wafers held and are still holding key tops on for over 100 years. 400 year old violins are still being held together with their original hide glue. Egyptian tombs 4000 years old have objects held together with hide glue.
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Blaine Hebert RPT
Duarte CA
(626) 390-0512
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Original Message:
Sent: 09-27-2023 10:47
From: Alan Eder
Subject: reattaching ivory
Greetings,
It has been decades since I last reattached a loose ivory keytop. When I last did it, it was with one of those cloth wafers impregnated with adhesive that is activated when wetted, the keytop clamped in place with a heated brass plate.
Wondering if there are any newer, slicker twenty-first century ways of accomplishing this task.
Thanks,
Alan
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Alan Eder, RPT
Herb Alpert School of Music
California Institute of the Arts
Valencia, CA
661.904.6483
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