Pianotech

Hi All,

It's been a number of years since I've done an Acrilikey repair [sp?] on chipped ivories.  I've got a 1950's Steinway with a handful of chipped keys and 2 or 3 are chipped enough that the front lip of the key top is missing.  Has anyone ever found a way to repair this type of break?  I'd hate to have a whole keyboard recovered because of just a couple of these being broken in this way, but what are my other options?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

Best,

Luke

Luke,

I believe it was 1951 tgat Steinway began the transition ffom ivory to plastic. Therefore, you are dealing with "first generation" plastic which has a shorter functional lifespan than "modern" plastics (think plastic elbows in spinets). As it ages it gets more and more brittle, and you (or the client) will be dealing with this situation frequently as more time passes. 

My suggestion is that you kiss these keytops goodbye and have them completely replaced. Could these be "repaired"? Yes...sort of, but it is unlikely to look good. The more professional approach is to explain that everything has a "design lifespan" and these keytops have gone well past their expiration date. The chipping is not the "problem" but rather the "symptom". Treat the problem rather than the symptom. 

That's my advice.

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

Hi All,

It's been a number of years since I've done an Acrilikey repair [sp?] on chipped ivories.  I've got a 1950's Steinway with a handful of chipped keys and 2 or 3 are chipped enough that the front lip of the key top is missing.  Has anyone ever found a way to repair this type of break?  I'd hate to have a whole keyboard recovered because of just a couple of these being broken in this way, but what are my other options?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

Best,

Luke

Hi Peter,

That is an excellent point.  However even though this is a 1954 Model D, there is no doubt in my mind these are ivory.  The characteristic grain pattern is unmistakable.  Maybe they were still offering ivory as an option on their concert grands at the time?  I don't really know the history.

Best,

Luke

Luke,

I believe it was 1951 tgat Steinway began the transition ffom ivory to plastic. Therefore, you are dealing with "first generation" plastic which has a shorter functional lifespan than "modern" plastics (think plastic elbows in spinets). As it ages it gets more and more brittle, and you (or the client) will be dealing with this situation frequently as more time passes. 

My suggestion is that you kiss these keytops goodbye and have them completely replaced. Could these be "repaired"? Yes...sort of, but it is unlikely to look good. The more professional approach is to explain that everything has a "design lifespan" and these keytops have gone well past their expiration date. The chipping is not the "problem" but rather the "symptom". Treat the problem rather than the symptom. 

That's my advice.

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

Hi All,

It's been a number of years since I've done an Acrilikey repair [sp?] on chipped ivories.  I've got a 1950's Steinway with a handful of chipped keys and 2 or 3 are chipped enough that the front lip of the key top is missing.  Has anyone ever found a way to repair this type of break?  I'd hate to have a whole keyboard recovered because of just a couple of these being broken in this way, but what are my other options?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

Best,

Luke

Luke,

I believe it was 1951 tgat Steinway began the transition ffom ivory to plastic. Therefore, you are dealing with "first generation" plastic which has a shorter functional lifespan than "modern" plastics (think plastic elbows in spinets). As it ages it gets more and more brittle, and you (or the client) will be dealing with this situation frequently as more time passes. 

My suggestion is that you kiss these keytops goodbye and have them completely replaced. Could these be "repaired"? Yes...sort of, but it is unlikely to look good. The more professional approach is to explain that everything has a "design lifespan" and these keytops have gone well past their expiration date. The chipping is not the "problem" but rather the "symptom". Treat the problem rather than the symptom. 

That's my advice.

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

Hi All,

It's been a number of years since I've done an Acrilikey repair [sp?] on chipped ivories.  I've got a 1950's Steinway with a handful of chipped keys and 2 or 3 are chipped enough that the front lip of the key top is missing.  Has anyone ever found a way to repair this type of break?  I'd hate to have a whole keyboard recovered because of just a couple of these being broken in this way, but what are my other options?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

Best,

Luke

Hi All,

It's been a number of years since I've done an Acrilikey repair [sp?] on chipped ivories.  I've got a 1950's Steinway with a handful of chipped keys and 2 or 3 are chipped enough that the front lip of the key top is missing.  Has anyone ever found a way to repair this type of break?  I'd hate to have a whole keyboard recovered because of just a couple of these being broken in this way, but what are my other options?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

Best,

Luke

I would recommend dental epoxy instead. Acriylkey is too soft. Tint the epoxy as needed.

Hi All,

It's been a number of years since I've done an Acrilikey repair [sp?] on chipped ivories.  I've got a 1950's Steinway with a handful of chipped keys and 2 or 3 are chipped enough that the front lip of the key top is missing.  Has anyone ever found a way to repair this type of break?  I'd hate to have a whole keyboard recovered because of just a couple of these being broken in this way, but what are my other options?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

Best,

Luke

According to Kehl & Kirkland (Official Guide to Steinway Pianos - Hal Leonard), Steinway sent letter to dealers on 9/24/56, notifying them of the discontinuance of ivory keytops.  It seems reasonable that the decision was purely economic, as I doubt there was any environmental pressure at the time.   
Parker Leigh's observation comparing dental epoxy with AcryliKey might be valid, although I'm not sure 'softness' is the actual limiter.  The extreme, in this instance, is that the material is not being used as a filler but an unsupported reconstruction.

I assume the acquisition of suitable replacement pieces is fraught... certainly in an on-line forum. 

One possible approach might be to make a thin saw cutout and glue a 'dam' insert to support the plastic material.  Once cured the 'dam' can be carefully ground/sanded away.  Alternatively, a thin, rigid, CLEAR, acrylic piece could be inserted in an undercut and then built upon. This link is for material 0.01" (0.25mm) thick.  
https://www.eplastics.com/ACRYCLR0-010IM24X48?inv=1&customer_id=813-364-8639&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20303024594&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsdnNBhC4ARIsAA_3hei11PuewV6IdBrCKMhUhFeNDd3VJfDr3RIc55rkADg1ofycDSAlpdUaAi3yEALw_wcB

I would recommend dental epoxy instead. Acriylkey is too soft. Tint the epoxy as needed.

Hi All,

It's been a number of years since I've done an Acrilikey repair [sp?] on chipped ivories.  I've got a 1950's Steinway with a handful of chipped keys and 2 or 3 are chipped enough that the front lip of the key top is missing.  Has anyone ever found a way to repair this type of break?  I'd hate to have a whole keyboard recovered because of just a couple of these being broken in this way, but what are my other options?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

Best,

Luke

Link for manufacturer of AcryliKey:

https://www.wagner-technical.com/instructions.htm#:~:text=AcryliKey%20II%20is%20an%20ivory,the%20shop%20environment%20in%20mind.

According to Kehl & Kirkland (Official Guide to Steinway Pianos - Hal Leonard), Steinway sent letter to dealers on 9/24/56, notifying them of the discontinuance of ivory keytops.  It seems reasonable that the decision was purely economic, as I doubt there was any environmental pressure at the time.   
Parker Leigh's observation comparing dental epoxy with AcryliKey might be valid, although I'm not sure 'softness' is the actual limiter.  The extreme, in this instance, is that the material is not being used as a filler but an unsupported reconstruction.

I assume the acquisition of suitable replacement pieces is fraught... certainly in an on-line forum. 

One possible approach might be to make a thin saw cutout and glue a 'dam' insert to support the plastic material.  Once cured the 'dam' can be carefully ground/sanded away.  Alternatively, a thin, rigid, CLEAR, acrylic piece could be inserted in an undercut and then built upon. This link is for material 0.01" (0.25mm) thick.  
https://www.eplastics.com/ACRYCLR0-010IM24X48?inv=1&customer_id=813-364-8639&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20303024594&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsdnNBhC4ARIsAA_3hei11PuewV6IdBrCKMhUhFeNDd3VJfDr3RIc55rkADg1ofycDSAlpdUaAi3yEALw_wcB

I would recommend dental epoxy instead. Acriylkey is too soft. Tint the epoxy as needed.

Hi All,

It's been a number of years since I've done an Acrilikey repair [sp?] on chipped ivories.  I've got a 1950's Steinway with a handful of chipped keys and 2 or 3 are chipped enough that the front lip of the key top is missing.  Has anyone ever found a way to repair this type of break?  I'd hate to have a whole keyboard recovered because of just a couple of these being broken in this way, but what are my other options?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

Best,

Luke