Pianotech

I prefer option 3 first, but if that's not possible due to the budget, I'd go with option 2. I've seen quite a few single string replacements on a bass bichord unison, and most have no problem with an odd sound or untunable beat as long as the measurements were taken correctly and the string was actually made to those measurements. Where you generally run into problems is where the new string wasn't duplicated properly, thus option 3 being my first choice. After all, what comes may not actually match the original but if both the strings in the bichord are the same, no one will notice as long as the difference isn't too much.

I've never had good success splicing a bass string. I know other technicians who've done this successfully, but about half the time I've tried it, I've been unsuccessful.  The other half of the time, I'm just not happy with the results. I'll do it if I have to, but in my opinion, a new string is almost always the better option. 

I prefer option 3 first, but if that's not possible due to the budget, I'd go with option 2. I've seen quite a few single string replacements on a bass bichord unison, and most have no problem with an odd sound or untunable beat as long as the measurements were taken correctly and the string was actually made to those measurements. Where you generally run into problems is where the new string wasn't duplicated properly, thus option 3 being my first choice. After all, what comes may not actually match the original but if both the strings in the bichord are the same, no one will notice as long as the difference isn't too much.

I've never had good success splicing a bass string. I know other technicians who've done this successfully, but about half the time I've tried it, I've been unsuccessful.  The other half of the time, I'm just not happy with the results. I'll do it if I have to, but in my opinion, a new string is almost always the better option. 

Option 3  . Tying a knot is a great repair to make in an emergency but I would order two replacement strings. The cost of shipping needs to be factored in as well as trying to get a new string to stabilize to one that has been there  .  I had a Steinway grand with a thick single bass string that broke and I tied it However that string broke again. It was hard to do because of the core string thickness. I went home and found a spare that I had and returned to install it. Several years later it works perfectly ..... 

Option 3  . Tying a knot is a great repair to make in an emergency but I would order two replacement strings. The cost of shipping needs to be factored in as well as trying to get a new string to stabilize to one that has been there  .  I had a Steinway grand with a thick single bass string that broke and I tied it However that string broke again. It was hard to do because of the core string thickness. I went home and found a spare that I had and returned to install it. Several years later it works perfectly ..... 

2 or 5 cents is almost nothing as the string(s) will likely drop a whole step within a week. 
Depending upon how much the client plays and your relationship with them, one strategy might be to install the missing string and mute it off, then after giving it some time to stabilize, replacing the other string and muting that off. Otherwise they're going to have to put up with a wildly out of tune note for some time.Either way I find it takes two or three touch ups at best to get the string close to where you want it. That's my experience anyway. I'm interested in hearing how much others overpull a new bass string.

Option 3  . Tying a knot is a great repair to make in an emergency but I would order two replacement strings. The cost of shipping needs to be factored in as well as trying to get a new string to stabilize to one that has been there  .  I had a Steinway grand with a thick single bass string that broke and I tied it However that string broke again. It was hard to do because of the core string thickness. I went home and found a spare that I had and returned to install it. Several years later it works perfectly ..... 

Jason,

MUCH of the "stretch" in a bass string is tied up (forgive the pun) in the helical coil at the hitch pin.

James Arledge came up with a great way to deal with this and accelerate the settling in process.  This involves pulling it sharp at least 50 cents, then using pliers to grasp the helical coil just behind the "tight" coil (the last finishing off coil). And wiggling the coil back and forth (with moderate force). You can actually watch the barrel coil turn as the helix tightens up. The tension will drop at least 100 cents in this first application.  Pull it up 50 cents sharp again (or whatever you're comfortable with) and repeat the procedure. It will likely drop back below pitch again. All you're doing is tightening the helix, which if left to itself, will take days and weeks and months to tighten up on it's own. This is what we refer to as "stretch". If you do this you will get 80% of it done and can leave it 5 cents sharp and come back in 2-3 weeks and retune it 2 cents sharp. 

This protocol works extremely well. I am grateful to James for figuring it out and sharing it. 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

2 or 5 cents is almost nothing as the string(s) will likely drop a whole step within a week. 
Depending upon how much the client plays and your relationship with them, one strategy might be to install the missing string and mute it off, then after giving it some time to stabilize, replacing the other string and muting that off. Otherwise they're going to have to put up with a wildly out of tune note for some time.Either way I find it takes two or three touch ups at best to get the string close to where you want it. That's my experience anyway. I'm interested in hearing how much others overpull a new bass string.

Option 3  . Tying a knot is a great repair to make in an emergency but I would order two replacement strings. The cost of shipping needs to be factored in as well as trying to get a new string to stabilize to one that has been there  .  I had a Steinway grand with a thick single bass string that broke and I tied it However that string broke again. It was hard to do because of the core string thickness. I went home and found a spare that I had and returned to install it. Several years later it works perfectly ..... 

I've never felt comfortable pulling a new bass string up +50¢. My usual protocol is to start my visit by installing the string as normal, pulling it about +20¢, and then trying to artificially stretch the string using the method Peter describes. Then, if I have to tune the piano, I'll tune it and do whatever else to complete the appointment. By the time I'm done with that, the new string(s) will be at least -30¢. I'll then pull them up to about +20¢, try to artificially stretch them again, and then finish by pulling them up to about +20¢ one more time. Then I'll come back in a few weeks and try to repeat the process, but this time only pulling them about +5¢. This method is slower but it's less stressful on my nerves than trying to pull it +50¢. 

Jason,

MUCH of the "stretch" in a bass string is tied up (forgive the pun) in the helical coil at the hitch pin.

James Arledge came up with a great way to deal with this and accelerate the settling in process.  This involves pulling it sharp at least 50 cents, then using pliers to grasp the helical coil just behind the "tight" coil (the last finishing off coil). And wiggling the coil back and forth (with moderate force). You can actually watch the barrel coil turn as the helix tightens up. The tension will drop at least 100 cents in this first application.  Pull it up 50 cents sharp again (or whatever you're comfortable with) and repeat the procedure. It will likely drop back below pitch again. All you're doing is tightening the helix, which if left to itself, will take days and weeks and months to tighten up on it's own. This is what we refer to as "stretch". If you do this you will get 80% of it done and can leave it 5 cents sharp and come back in 2-3 weeks and retune it 2 cents sharp. 

This protocol works extremely well. I am grateful to James for figuring it out and sharing it. 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

2 or 5 cents is almost nothing as the string(s) will likely drop a whole step within a week. 
Depending upon how much the client plays and your relationship with them, one strategy might be to install the missing string and mute it off, then after giving it some time to stabilize, replacing the other string and muting that off. Otherwise they're going to have to put up with a wildly out of tune note for some time.Either way I find it takes two or three touch ups at best to get the string close to where you want it. That's my experience anyway. I'm interested in hearing how much others overpull a new bass string.

Option 3  . Tying a knot is a great repair to make in an emergency but I would order two replacement strings. The cost of shipping needs to be factored in as well as trying to get a new string to stabilize to one that has been there  .  I had a Steinway grand with a thick single bass string that broke and I tied it However that string broke again. It was hard to do because of the core string thickness. I went home and found a spare that I had and returned to install it. Several years later it works perfectly ..... 

Benjamin, 

I too "prefer" the less stressful protocol as you. IIRC James actually recommended 100 cents, but I could not bring myself to do that. 50 was about my max (if even that). But of course the point of it is "treat the problem, not the symptom"...the problem being the tightening of the helical coil, primarily. 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 08-09-2026 23:28
From: Benjamin Sanchez
Subject: Snap! Bass bichord.

I've never felt comfortable pulling a new bass string up +50¢. My usual protocol is to start my visit by installing the string as normal, pulling it about +20¢, and then trying to artificially stretch the string using the method Peter describes. Then, if I have to tune the piano, I'll tune it and do whatever else to complete the appointment. By the time I'm done with that, the new string(s) will be at least -30¢. I'll then pull them up to about +20¢, try to artificially stretch them again, and then finish by pulling them up to about +20¢ one more time. Then I'll come back in a few weeks and try to repeat the process, but this time only pulling them about +5¢. This method is slower but it's less stressful on my nerves than trying to pull it +50¢. 

------------------------------
Benjamin Sanchez, RPT
(256) 947-9999
www.professional-piano-services.com
www.FromZeroToSixFiguresBook.com
www.PianoCraftTechnicalSchool.com
------------------------------



Original Message:
Sent: 08-09-2026 22:02
From: Peter Grey
Subject: Snap! Bass bichord.

Jason,

MUCH of the "stretch" in a bass string is tied up (forgive the pun) in the helical coil at the hitch pin.

James Arledge came up with a great way to deal with this and accelerate the settling in process.  This involves pulling it sharp at least 50 cents, then using pliers to grasp the helical coil just behind the "tight" coil (the last finishing off coil). And wiggling the coil back and forth (with moderate force). You can actually watch the barrel coil turn as the helix tightens up. The tension will drop at least 100 cents in this first application.  Pull it up 50 cents sharp again (or whatever you're comfortable with) and repeat the procedure. It will likely drop back below pitch again. All you're doing is tightening the helix, which if left to itself, will take days and weeks and months to tighten up on it's own. This is what we refer to as "stretch". If you do this you will get 80% of it done and can leave it 5 cents sharp and come back in 2-3 weeks and retune it 2 cents sharp. 

This protocol works extremely well. I am grateful to James for figuring it out and sharing it. 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com
------------------------------




Original Message:
Sent: 08-09-2026 19:47
From: Steven Rosenthal
Subject: Snap! Bass bichord.

2 or 5 cents is almost nothing as the string(s) will likely drop a whole step within a week. 
Depending upon how much the client plays and your relationship with them, one strategy might be to install the missing string and mute it off, then after giving it some time to stabilize, replacing the other string and muting that off. Otherwise they're going to have to put up with a wildly out of tune note for some time.Either way I find it takes two or three touch ups at best to get the string close to where you want it. That's my experience anyway. I'm interested in hearing how much others overpull a new bass string.

------------------------------
Steven Rosenthal RPT
Honolulu HI
(808) 521-7129
------------------------------





Original Message:
Sent: 08-09-2026 16:49
From: Jason Kanter
Subject: Snap! Bass bichord.

Original Message:
Sent: 8/1/2026 12:53:00 PM
From: James Kelly
Subject: RE: Snap! Bass bichord.

Option 3  . Tying a knot is a great repair to make in an emergency but I would order two replacement strings. The cost of shipping needs to be factored in as well as trying to get a new string to stabilize to one that has been there  .  I had a Steinway grand with a thick single bass string that broke and I tied it However that string broke again. It was hard to do because of the core string thickness. I went home and found a spare that I had and returned to install it. Several years later it works perfectly ..... 

------------------------------
James Kelly
Owner- Fur Elise Piano Service
Pawleys Island SC
(843) 325-4357
------------------------------

Jason,

MUCH of the "stretch" in a bass string is tied up (forgive the pun) in the helical coil at the hitch pin.

James Arledge came up with a great way to deal with this and accelerate the settling in process.  This involves pulling it sharp at least 50 cents, then using pliers to grasp the helical coil just behind the "tight" coil (the last finishing off coil). And wiggling the coil back and forth (with moderate force). You can actually watch the barrel coil turn as the helix tightens up. The tension will drop at least 100 cents in this first application.  Pull it up 50 cents sharp again (or whatever you're comfortable with) and repeat the procedure. It will likely drop back below pitch again. All you're doing is tightening the helix, which if left to itself, will take days and weeks and months to tighten up on it's own. This is what we refer to as "stretch". If you do this you will get 80% of it done and can leave it 5 cents sharp and come back in 2-3 weeks and retune it 2 cents sharp. 

This protocol works extremely well. I am grateful to James for figuring it out and sharing it. 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

2 or 5 cents is almost nothing as the string(s) will likely drop a whole step within a week. 
Depending upon how much the client plays and your relationship with them, one strategy might be to install the missing string and mute it off, then after giving it some time to stabilize, replacing the other string and muting that off. Otherwise they're going to have to put up with a wildly out of tune note for some time.Either way I find it takes two or three touch ups at best to get the string close to where you want it. That's my experience anyway. I'm interested in hearing how much others overpull a new bass string.

Jason,

MUCH of the "stretch" in a bass string is tied up (forgive the pun) in the helical coil at the hitch pin.

James Arledge came up with a great way to deal with this and accelerate the settling in process.  This involves pulling it sharp at least 50 cents, then using pliers to grasp the helical coil just behind the "tight" coil (the last finishing off coil). And wiggling the coil back and forth (with moderate force). You can actually watch the barrel coil turn as the helix tightens up. The tension will drop at least 100 cents in this first application.  Pull it up 50 cents sharp again (or whatever you're comfortable with) and repeat the procedure. It will likely drop back below pitch again. All you're doing is tightening the helix, which if left to itself, will take days and weeks and months to tighten up on it's own. This is what we refer to as "stretch". If you do this you will get 80% of it done and can leave it 5 cents sharp and come back in 2-3 weeks and retune it 2 cents sharp. 

This protocol works extremely well. I am grateful to James for figuring it out and sharing it. 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

2 or 5 cents is almost nothing as the string(s) will likely drop a whole step within a week. 
Depending upon how much the client plays and your relationship with them, one strategy might be to install the missing string and mute it off, then after giving it some time to stabilize, replacing the other string and muting that off. Otherwise they're going to have to put up with a wildly out of tune note for some time.Either way I find it takes two or three touch ups at best to get the string close to where you want it. That's my experience anyway. I'm interested in hearing how much others overpull a new bass string.