Harpsichord

Greetings,

I am no expert at harpsichord servicing, but do have three in my care here at CalArts.

One of them has developed a loose tuning pin. I am advised that the prevailing fix for this is to remove the pin and add a paper shim inside the hole.

In the early, "dark" days of my career as a piano tech, that is what I was taught to do to fix a loose pin on piano (only with sandpaper). Ever since someone out there "discovered" the utility of using thin CA glue for this fix instead, which is much less labor intensive, that has been my SOP. 

Wondering if anyone has either tried this on a harpsichord, or can think of a compelling reason NOT to try it.

Thanks,

Alan

Greetings,

I am no expert at harpsichord servicing, but do have three in my care here at CalArts.

One of them has developed a loose tuning pin. I am advised that the prevailing fix for this is to remove the pin and add a paper shim inside the hole.

In the early, "dark" days of my career as a piano tech, that is what I was taught to do to fix a loose pin on piano (only with sandpaper). Ever since someone out there "discovered" the utility of using thin CA glue for this fix instead, which is much less labor intensive, that has been my SOP. 

Wondering if anyone has either tried this on a harpsichord, or can think of a compelling reason NOT to try it.

Thanks,

Alan

Hadn't heard about using veneer for this before. Thanks Jim!

Greetings,

I am no expert at harpsichord servicing, but do have three in my care here at CalArts.

One of them has developed a loose tuning pin. I am advised that the prevailing fix for this is to remove the pin and add a paper shim inside the hole.

In the early, "dark" days of my career as a piano tech, that is what I was taught to do to fix a loose pin on piano (only with sandpaper). Ever since someone out there "discovered" the utility of using thin CA glue for this fix instead, which is much less labor intensive, that has been my SOP. 

Wondering if anyone has either tried this on a harpsichord, or can think of a compelling reason NOT to try it.

Thanks,

Alan

FWIW, I restrung several instruments under Bill Dowd's supervision some time back. He insisted on using shims of archival, acid free, rag paper. We put it in the holes exactly as Fred suggests above. Never had a problem with it. Glue will seep into the wood around the pin and stain it, I would think. 

Hadn't heard about using veneer for this before. Thanks Jim!

Greetings,

I am no expert at harpsichord servicing, but do have three in my care here at CalArts.

One of them has developed a loose tuning pin. I am advised that the prevailing fix for this is to remove the pin and add a paper shim inside the hole.

In the early, "dark" days of my career as a piano tech, that is what I was taught to do to fix a loose pin on piano (only with sandpaper). Ever since someone out there "discovered" the utility of using thin CA glue for this fix instead, which is much less labor intensive, that has been my SOP. 

Wondering if anyone has either tried this on a harpsichord, or can think of a compelling reason NOT to try it.

Thanks,

Alan

"…archival, acid-free rag paper…." Who knew?!?!  Thanks Dave!

FWIW, I restrung several instruments under Bill Dowd's supervision some time back. He insisted on using shims of archival, acid free, rag paper. We put it in the holes exactly as Fred suggests above. Never had a problem with it. Glue will seep into the wood around the pin and stain it, I would think. 

Hadn't heard about using veneer for this before. Thanks Jim!

Greetings,

I am no expert at harpsichord servicing, but do have three in my care here at CalArts.

One of them has developed a loose tuning pin. I am advised that the prevailing fix for this is to remove the pin and add a paper shim inside the hole.

In the early, "dark" days of my career as a piano tech, that is what I was taught to do to fix a loose pin on piano (only with sandpaper). Ever since someone out there "discovered" the utility of using thin CA glue for this fix instead, which is much less labor intensive, that has been my SOP. 

Wondering if anyone has either tried this on a harpsichord, or can think of a compelling reason NOT to try it.

Thanks,

Alan

"…archival, acid-free rag paper…." Who knew?!?!  Thanks Dave!

FWIW, I restrung several instruments under Bill Dowd's supervision some time back. He insisted on using shims of archival, acid free, rag paper. We put it in the holes exactly as Fred suggests above. Never had a problem with it. Glue will seep into the wood around the pin and stain it, I would think. 

Hadn't heard about using veneer for this before. Thanks Jim!

Greetings,

I am no expert at harpsichord servicing, but do have three in my care here at CalArts.

One of them has developed a loose tuning pin. I am advised that the prevailing fix for this is to remove the pin and add a paper shim inside the hole.

In the early, "dark" days of my career as a piano tech, that is what I was taught to do to fix a loose pin on piano (only with sandpaper). Ever since someone out there "discovered" the utility of using thin CA glue for this fix instead, which is much less labor intensive, that has been my SOP. 

Wondering if anyone has either tried this on a harpsichord, or can think of a compelling reason NOT to try it.

Thanks,

Alan

FWIW, I restrung several instruments under Bill Dowd's supervision some time back. He insisted on using shims of archival, acid free, rag paper. We put it in the holes exactly as Fred suggests above. Never had a problem with it. Glue will seep into the wood around the pin and stain it, I would think. 

Hadn't heard about using veneer for this before. Thanks Jim!

Greetings,

I am no expert at harpsichord servicing, but do have three in my care here at CalArts.

One of them has developed a loose tuning pin. I am advised that the prevailing fix for this is to remove the pin and add a paper shim inside the hole.

In the early, "dark" days of my career as a piano tech, that is what I was taught to do to fix a loose pin on piano (only with sandpaper). Ever since someone out there "discovered" the utility of using thin CA glue for this fix instead, which is much less labor intensive, that has been my SOP. 

Wondering if anyone has either tried this on a harpsichord, or can think of a compelling reason NOT to try it.

Thanks,

Alan

Dave,

I am finally getting around to trying to acquire the shimming material you referenced.

I have to choose between "buffered" and "unbuffered."

What do you recommend?

Best,

Alan

FWIW, I restrung several instruments under Bill Dowd's supervision some time back. He insisted on using shims of archival, acid free, rag paper. We put it in the holes exactly as Fred suggests above. Never had a problem with it. Glue will seep into the wood around the pin and stain it, I would think. 

Hadn't heard about using veneer for this before. Thanks Jim!

Greetings,

I am no expert at harpsichord servicing, but do have three in my care here at CalArts.

One of them has developed a loose tuning pin. I am advised that the prevailing fix for this is to remove the pin and add a paper shim inside the hole.

In the early, "dark" days of my career as a piano tech, that is what I was taught to do to fix a loose pin on piano (only with sandpaper). Ever since someone out there "discovered" the utility of using thin CA glue for this fix instead, which is much less labor intensive, that has been my SOP. 

Wondering if anyone has either tried this on a harpsichord, or can think of a compelling reason NOT to try it.

Thanks,

Alan

Alan,

Please post your thoughts on this subject when you are finished with your project. I have never heard of using archival paper as well so I'm sure many of us will be interested in hearing the results. 

I asked the question on Google about the difference between using buffered and unbuffered paper as it related to metal. Below is the AI response. Interesting!

Thanks, Don

buffered rag paper (alkaline) can sometimes cause chemical reactions or corrosion (tarnishing/bleaching) with sensitive metals like silver and copper, especially if damp; while unbuffered rag paper (neutral pH) is safer and generally recommended for most metals and protein-based artifacts, though some buffered papers are soft enough for gentle use if kept dry. Always use soft, neutral (unbuffered) tissue for metals if unsure, or if they have special finishes/coatings, as buffering agents (like calcium carbonate) can be reactive with some metal compounds. 

• pH: 7.5 - 9 (alkaline, due to calcium carbonate).
• Best For: Cellulose-based items (cotton, paper, linen), ceramics, some photos.
• With Metals: Avoid or use with extreme caution. The alkalinity can react with silver, copper, and other metals, potentially causing tarnish, bleaching, or corrosion, especially in humid conditions. 

• pH: ~7.0 (neutral, no added buffer).
• Best For: Animal-based items (silk, wool, leather), protein-based photos, and metals.
• With Metals: Generally safe because it lacks reactive alkaline agents; it won't neutralize naturally acidic metal surfaces as aggressively as buffered paper. 

• Silver & Copper: Highly prone to reaction with alkaline buffers.
• Dampness: Moisture exacerbates chemical reactions; dry storage is crucial.
• General Rule: When in doubt about a metal object, use soft, unbuffered, neutral pH tissue to prevent chemical harm. Some buffered tissues are soft enough for gentle use on metals if kept very dry, but unbuffered is the safer archival bet. 

Dave,

I am finally getting around to trying to acquire the shimming material you referenced.

I have to choose between "buffered" and "unbuffered."

What do you recommend?

Best,

Alan

FWIW, I restrung several instruments under Bill Dowd's supervision some time back. He insisted on using shims of archival, acid free, rag paper. We put it in the holes exactly as Fred suggests above. Never had a problem with it. Glue will seep into the wood around the pin and stain it, I would think. 

Hadn't heard about using veneer for this before. Thanks Jim!

Greetings,

I am no expert at harpsichord servicing, but do have three in my care here at CalArts.

One of them has developed a loose tuning pin. I am advised that the prevailing fix for this is to remove the pin and add a paper shim inside the hole.

In the early, "dark" days of my career as a piano tech, that is what I was taught to do to fix a loose pin on piano (only with sandpaper). Ever since someone out there "discovered" the utility of using thin CA glue for this fix instead, which is much less labor intensive, that has been my SOP. 

Wondering if anyone has either tried this on a harpsichord, or can think of a compelling reason NOT to try it.

Thanks,

Alan

Don-

Perhaps you could return to Google AI and ask "Does any if this matter when shimming a loose harpsichord tuning pin, and if so, where can I get a grant?"

Alan,

Please post your thoughts on this subject when you are finished with your project. I have never heard of using archival paper as well so I'm sure many of us will be interested in hearing the results. 

I asked the question on Google about the difference between using buffered and unbuffered paper as it related to metal. Below is the AI response. Interesting!

Thanks, Don

buffered rag paper (alkaline) can sometimes cause chemical reactions or corrosion (tarnishing/bleaching) with sensitive metals like silver and copper, especially if damp; while unbuffered rag paper (neutral pH) is safer and generally recommended for most metals and protein-based artifacts, though some buffered papers are soft enough for gentle use if kept dry. Always use soft, neutral (unbuffered) tissue for metals if unsure, or if they have special finishes/coatings, as buffering agents (like calcium carbonate) can be reactive with some metal compounds. 

• pH: 7.5 - 9 (alkaline, due to calcium carbonate).
• Best For: Cellulose-based items (cotton, paper, linen), ceramics, some photos.
• With Metals: Avoid or use with extreme caution. The alkalinity can react with silver, copper, and other metals, potentially causing tarnish, bleaching, or corrosion, especially in humid conditions. 

• pH: ~7.0 (neutral, no added buffer).
• Best For: Animal-based items (silk, wool, leather), protein-based photos, and metals.
• With Metals: Generally safe because it lacks reactive alkaline agents; it won't neutralize naturally acidic metal surfaces as aggressively as buffered paper. 

• Silver & Copper: Highly prone to reaction with alkaline buffers.
• Dampness: Moisture exacerbates chemical reactions; dry storage is crucial.
• General Rule: When in doubt about a metal object, use soft, unbuffered, neutral pH tissue to prevent chemical harm. Some buffered tissues are soft enough for gentle use on metals if kept very dry, but unbuffered is the safer archival bet. 

Dave,

I am finally getting around to trying to acquire the shimming material you referenced.

I have to choose between "buffered" and "unbuffered."

What do you recommend?

Best,

Alan

FWIW, I restrung several instruments under Bill Dowd's supervision some time back. He insisted on using shims of archival, acid free, rag paper. We put it in the holes exactly as Fred suggests above. Never had a problem with it. Glue will seep into the wood around the pin and stain it, I would think. 

Hadn't heard about using veneer for this before. Thanks Jim!

Greetings,

I am no expert at harpsichord servicing, but do have three in my care here at CalArts.

One of them has developed a loose tuning pin. I am advised that the prevailing fix for this is to remove the pin and add a paper shim inside the hole.

In the early, "dark" days of my career as a piano tech, that is what I was taught to do to fix a loose pin on piano (only with sandpaper). Ever since someone out there "discovered" the utility of using thin CA glue for this fix instead, which is much less labor intensive, that has been my SOP. 

Wondering if anyone has either tried this on a harpsichord, or can think of a compelling reason NOT to try it.

Thanks,

Alan

FWIW, I restrung several instruments under Bill Dowd's supervision some time back. He insisted on using shims of archival, acid free, rag paper. We put it in the holes exactly as Fred suggests above. Never had a problem with it. Glue will seep into the wood around the pin and stain it, I would think. 

Hadn't heard about using veneer for this before. Thanks Jim!

Greetings,

I am no expert at harpsichord servicing, but do have three in my care here at CalArts.

One of them has developed a loose tuning pin. I am advised that the prevailing fix for this is to remove the pin and add a paper shim inside the hole.

In the early, "dark" days of my career as a piano tech, that is what I was taught to do to fix a loose pin on piano (only with sandpaper). Ever since someone out there "discovered" the utility of using thin CA glue for this fix instead, which is much less labor intensive, that has been my SOP. 

Wondering if anyone has either tried this on a harpsichord, or can think of a compelling reason NOT to try it.

Thanks,

Alan

Also, I consulted an artist friend about this item and they asked what GSM (grams per square meter) I need. Any thoughts about that?

FWIW, I restrung several instruments under Bill Dowd's supervision some time back. He insisted on using shims of archival, acid free, rag paper. We put it in the holes exactly as Fred suggests above. Never had a problem with it. Glue will seep into the wood around the pin and stain it, I would think. 

Hadn't heard about using veneer for this before. Thanks Jim!

Greetings,

I am no expert at harpsichord servicing, but do have three in my care here at CalArts.

One of them has developed a loose tuning pin. I am advised that the prevailing fix for this is to remove the pin and add a paper shim inside the hole.

In the early, "dark" days of my career as a piano tech, that is what I was taught to do to fix a loose pin on piano (only with sandpaper). Ever since someone out there "discovered" the utility of using thin CA glue for this fix instead, which is much less labor intensive, that has been my SOP. 

Wondering if anyone has either tried this on a harpsichord, or can think of a compelling reason NOT to try it.

Thanks,

Alan

Also, I consulted an artist friend about this item and they asked what GSM (grams per square meter) I need. Any thoughts about that?

FWIW, I restrung several instruments under Bill Dowd's supervision some time back. He insisted on using shims of archival, acid free, rag paper. We put it in the holes exactly as Fred suggests above. Never had a problem with it. Glue will seep into the wood around the pin and stain it, I would think. 

Hadn't heard about using veneer for this before. Thanks Jim!

Greetings,

I am no expert at harpsichord servicing, but do have three in my care here at CalArts.

One of them has developed a loose tuning pin. I am advised that the prevailing fix for this is to remove the pin and add a paper shim inside the hole.

In the early, "dark" days of my career as a piano tech, that is what I was taught to do to fix a loose pin on piano (only with sandpaper). Ever since someone out there "discovered" the utility of using thin CA glue for this fix instead, which is much less labor intensive, that has been my SOP. 

Wondering if anyone has either tried this on a harpsichord, or can think of a compelling reason NOT to try it.

Thanks,

Alan

Also, I consulted an artist friend about this item and they asked what GSM (grams per square meter) I need. Any thoughts about that?

FWIW, I restrung several instruments under Bill Dowd's supervision some time back. He insisted on using shims of archival, acid free, rag paper. We put it in the holes exactly as Fred suggests above. Never had a problem with it. Glue will seep into the wood around the pin and stain it, I would think. 

Hadn't heard about using veneer for this before. Thanks Jim!

Greetings,

I am no expert at harpsichord servicing, but do have three in my care here at CalArts.

One of them has developed a loose tuning pin. I am advised that the prevailing fix for this is to remove the pin and add a paper shim inside the hole.

In the early, "dark" days of my career as a piano tech, that is what I was taught to do to fix a loose pin on piano (only with sandpaper). Ever since someone out there "discovered" the utility of using thin CA glue for this fix instead, which is much less labor intensive, that has been my SOP. 

Wondering if anyone has either tried this on a harpsichord, or can think of a compelling reason NOT to try it.

Thanks,

Alan

Greetings,

I am no expert at harpsichord servicing, but do have three in my care here at CalArts.

One of them has developed a loose tuning pin. I am advised that the prevailing fix for this is to remove the pin and add a paper shim inside the hole.

In the early, "dark" days of my career as a piano tech, that is what I was taught to do to fix a loose pin on piano (only with sandpaper). Ever since someone out there "discovered" the utility of using thin CA glue for this fix instead, which is much less labor intensive, that has been my SOP. 

Wondering if anyone has either tried this on a harpsichord, or can think of a compelling reason NOT to try it.

Thanks,

Alan

Greetings,

I am no expert at harpsichord servicing, but do have three in my care here at CalArts.

One of them has developed a loose tuning pin. I am advised that the prevailing fix for this is to remove the pin and add a paper shim inside the hole.

In the early, "dark" days of my career as a piano tech, that is what I was taught to do to fix a loose pin on piano (only with sandpaper). Ever since someone out there "discovered" the utility of using thin CA glue for this fix instead, which is much less labor intensive, that has been my SOP. 

Wondering if anyone has either tried this on a harpsichord, or can think of a compelling reason NOT to try it.

Thanks,

Alan

Illuminating as always, Fred. Thanks!

Greetings,

I am no expert at harpsichord servicing, but do have three in my care here at CalArts.

One of them has developed a loose tuning pin. I am advised that the prevailing fix for this is to remove the pin and add a paper shim inside the hole.

In the early, "dark" days of my career as a piano tech, that is what I was taught to do to fix a loose pin on piano (only with sandpaper). Ever since someone out there "discovered" the utility of using thin CA glue for this fix instead, which is much less labor intensive, that has been my SOP. 

Wondering if anyone has either tried this on a harpsichord, or can think of a compelling reason NOT to try it.

Thanks,

Alan

What has not been specified here is whether the pin is a historic smooth tapered pin or a modern zither pin.

With historic smooth pins the paper shim makes a beautifully tightened pin, very nice to tune. I would hesitate to use CA glue on a historic pin.

I have no experience repairing loose zither pins on harpsichords. CA swabbing might be fine. But remember that harpsichords don't need high torque.

Illuminating as always, Fred. Thanks!

Greetings,

I am no expert at harpsichord servicing, but do have three in my care here at CalArts.

One of them has developed a loose tuning pin. I am advised that the prevailing fix for this is to remove the pin and add a paper shim inside the hole.

In the early, "dark" days of my career as a piano tech, that is what I was taught to do to fix a loose pin on piano (only with sandpaper). Ever since someone out there "discovered" the utility of using thin CA glue for this fix instead, which is much less labor intensive, that has been my SOP. 

Wondering if anyone has either tried this on a harpsichord, or can think of a compelling reason NOT to try it.

Thanks,

Alan

Good point, Ed, about failure to specify which pin type. My bad. It is historical tapered (no threads or becket hole, for those just joining our program already in progress).

What has not been specified here is whether the pin is a historic smooth tapered pin or a modern zither pin.

With historic smooth pins the paper shim makes a beautifully tightened pin, very nice to tune. I would hesitate to use CA glue on a historic pin.

I have no experience repairing loose zither pins on harpsichords. CA swabbing might be fine. But remember that harpsichords don't need high torque.

Illuminating as always, Fred. Thanks!

Greetings,

I am no expert at harpsichord servicing, but do have three in my care here at CalArts.

One of them has developed a loose tuning pin. I am advised that the prevailing fix for this is to remove the pin and add a paper shim inside the hole.

In the early, "dark" days of my career as a piano tech, that is what I was taught to do to fix a loose pin on piano (only with sandpaper). Ever since someone out there "discovered" the utility of using thin CA glue for this fix instead, which is much less labor intensive, that has been my SOP. 

Wondering if anyone has either tried this on a harpsichord, or can think of a compelling reason NOT to try it.

Thanks,

Alan

Good point, Ed, about failure to specify which pin type. My bad. It is historical tapered (no threads or becket hole, for those just joining our program already in progress).

What has not been specified here is whether the pin is a historic smooth tapered pin or a modern zither pin.

With historic smooth pins the paper shim makes a beautifully tightened pin, very nice to tune. I would hesitate to use CA glue on a historic pin.

I have no experience repairing loose zither pins on harpsichords. CA swabbing might be fine. But remember that harpsichords don't need high torque.

Illuminating as always, Fred. Thanks!

Greetings,

I am no expert at harpsichord servicing, but do have three in my care here at CalArts.

One of them has developed a loose tuning pin. I am advised that the prevailing fix for this is to remove the pin and add a paper shim inside the hole.

In the early, "dark" days of my career as a piano tech, that is what I was taught to do to fix a loose pin on piano (only with sandpaper). Ever since someone out there "discovered" the utility of using thin CA glue for this fix instead, which is much less labor intensive, that has been my SOP. 

Wondering if anyone has either tried this on a harpsichord, or can think of a compelling reason NOT to try it.

Thanks,

Alan

Perhaps I misunderstood Ed. These smooth pins are tapered for the bottom few millimeters, but not along their entire length.

Good point, Ed, about failure to specify which pin type. My bad. It is historical tapered (no threads or becket hole, for those just joining our program already in progress).

What has not been specified here is whether the pin is a historic smooth tapered pin or a modern zither pin.

With historic smooth pins the paper shim makes a beautifully tightened pin, very nice to tune. I would hesitate to use CA glue on a historic pin.

I have no experience repairing loose zither pins on harpsichords. CA swabbing might be fine. But remember that harpsichords don't need high torque.

Illuminating as always, Fred. Thanks!

Greetings,

I am no expert at harpsichord servicing, but do have three in my care here at CalArts.

One of them has developed a loose tuning pin. I am advised that the prevailing fix for this is to remove the pin and add a paper shim inside the hole.

In the early, "dark" days of my career as a piano tech, that is what I was taught to do to fix a loose pin on piano (only with sandpaper). Ever since someone out there "discovered" the utility of using thin CA glue for this fix instead, which is much less labor intensive, that has been my SOP. 

Wondering if anyone has either tried this on a harpsichord, or can think of a compelling reason NOT to try it.

Thanks,

Alan

Illuminating as always, Fred. Thanks!

Greetings,

I am no expert at harpsichord servicing, but do have three in my care here at CalArts.

One of them has developed a loose tuning pin. I am advised that the prevailing fix for this is to remove the pin and add a paper shim inside the hole.

In the early, "dark" days of my career as a piano tech, that is what I was taught to do to fix a loose pin on piano (only with sandpaper). Ever since someone out there "discovered" the utility of using thin CA glue for this fix instead, which is much less labor intensive, that has been my SOP. 

Wondering if anyone has either tried this on a harpsichord, or can think of a compelling reason NOT to try it.

Thanks,

Alan