Harpsichord

Hadn't heard about using veneer for this before. Thanks Jim!

FWIW, I restrung several instruments under Bill Dowd's supervision some time back. He insisted on using shims of archival, acid free, rag paper. We put it in the holes exactly as Fred suggests above. Never had a problem with it. Glue will seep into the wood around the pin and stain it, I would think. 

Hadn't heard about using veneer for this before. Thanks Jim!

"…archival, acid-free rag paper…." Who knew?!?!  Thanks Dave!

FWIW, I restrung several instruments under Bill Dowd's supervision some time back. He insisted on using shims of archival, acid free, rag paper. We put it in the holes exactly as Fred suggests above. Never had a problem with it. Glue will seep into the wood around the pin and stain it, I would think. 

Hadn't heard about using veneer for this before. Thanks Jim!

"…archival, acid-free rag paper…." Who knew?!?!  Thanks Dave!

FWIW, I restrung several instruments under Bill Dowd's supervision some time back. He insisted on using shims of archival, acid free, rag paper. We put it in the holes exactly as Fred suggests above. Never had a problem with it. Glue will seep into the wood around the pin and stain it, I would think. 

FWIW, I restrung several instruments under Bill Dowd's supervision some time back. He insisted on using shims of archival, acid free, rag paper. We put it in the holes exactly as Fred suggests above. Never had a problem with it. Glue will seep into the wood around the pin and stain it, I would think. 

Hadn't heard about using veneer for this before. Thanks Jim!

Dave,

I am finally getting around to trying to acquire the shimming material you referenced.

I have to choose between "buffered" and "unbuffered."

What do you recommend?

Best,

Alan

FWIW, I restrung several instruments under Bill Dowd's supervision some time back. He insisted on using shims of archival, acid free, rag paper. We put it in the holes exactly as Fred suggests above. Never had a problem with it. Glue will seep into the wood around the pin and stain it, I would think. 

Hadn't heard about using veneer for this before. Thanks Jim!

Alan,

Please post your thoughts on this subject when you are finished with your project. I have never heard of using archival paper as well so I'm sure many of us will be interested in hearing the results. 

I asked the question on Google about the difference between using buffered and unbuffered paper as it related to metal. Below is the AI response. Interesting!

Thanks, Don

buffered rag paper (alkaline) can sometimes cause chemical reactions or corrosion (tarnishing/bleaching) with sensitive metals like silver and copper, especially if damp; while unbuffered rag paper (neutral pH) is safer and generally recommended for most metals and protein-based artifacts, though some buffered papers are soft enough for gentle use if kept dry. Always use soft, neutral (unbuffered) tissue for metals if unsure, or if they have special finishes/coatings, as buffering agents (like calcium carbonate) can be reactive with some metal compounds. 

• pH: 7.5 - 9 (alkaline, due to calcium carbonate).
• Best For: Cellulose-based items (cotton, paper, linen), ceramics, some photos.
• With Metals: Avoid or use with extreme caution. The alkalinity can react with silver, copper, and other metals, potentially causing tarnish, bleaching, or corrosion, especially in humid conditions. 

• pH: ~7.0 (neutral, no added buffer).
• Best For: Animal-based items (silk, wool, leather), protein-based photos, and metals.
• With Metals: Generally safe because it lacks reactive alkaline agents; it won't neutralize naturally acidic metal surfaces as aggressively as buffered paper. 

• Silver & Copper: Highly prone to reaction with alkaline buffers.
• Dampness: Moisture exacerbates chemical reactions; dry storage is crucial.
• General Rule: When in doubt about a metal object, use soft, unbuffered, neutral pH tissue to prevent chemical harm. Some buffered tissues are soft enough for gentle use on metals if kept very dry, but unbuffered is the safer archival bet. 

Dave,

I am finally getting around to trying to acquire the shimming material you referenced.

I have to choose between "buffered" and "unbuffered."

What do you recommend?

Best,

Alan

FWIW, I restrung several instruments under Bill Dowd's supervision some time back. He insisted on using shims of archival, acid free, rag paper. We put it in the holes exactly as Fred suggests above. Never had a problem with it. Glue will seep into the wood around the pin and stain it, I would think. 

Hadn't heard about using veneer for this before. Thanks Jim!

Don-

Perhaps you could return to Google AI and ask "Does any if this matter when shimming a loose harpsichord tuning pin, and if so, where can I get a grant?"

Alan,

Please post your thoughts on this subject when you are finished with your project. I have never heard of using archival paper as well so I'm sure many of us will be interested in hearing the results. 

I asked the question on Google about the difference between using buffered and unbuffered paper as it related to metal. Below is the AI response. Interesting!

Thanks, Don

buffered rag paper (alkaline) can sometimes cause chemical reactions or corrosion (tarnishing/bleaching) with sensitive metals like silver and copper, especially if damp; while unbuffered rag paper (neutral pH) is safer and generally recommended for most metals and protein-based artifacts, though some buffered papers are soft enough for gentle use if kept dry. Always use soft, neutral (unbuffered) tissue for metals if unsure, or if they have special finishes/coatings, as buffering agents (like calcium carbonate) can be reactive with some metal compounds. 

• pH: 7.5 - 9 (alkaline, due to calcium carbonate).
• Best For: Cellulose-based items (cotton, paper, linen), ceramics, some photos.
• With Metals: Avoid or use with extreme caution. The alkalinity can react with silver, copper, and other metals, potentially causing tarnish, bleaching, or corrosion, especially in humid conditions. 

• pH: ~7.0 (neutral, no added buffer).
• Best For: Animal-based items (silk, wool, leather), protein-based photos, and metals.
• With Metals: Generally safe because it lacks reactive alkaline agents; it won't neutralize naturally acidic metal surfaces as aggressively as buffered paper. 

• Silver & Copper: Highly prone to reaction with alkaline buffers.
• Dampness: Moisture exacerbates chemical reactions; dry storage is crucial.
• General Rule: When in doubt about a metal object, use soft, unbuffered, neutral pH tissue to prevent chemical harm. Some buffered tissues are soft enough for gentle use on metals if kept very dry, but unbuffered is the safer archival bet. 

Dave,

I am finally getting around to trying to acquire the shimming material you referenced.

I have to choose between "buffered" and "unbuffered."

What do you recommend?

Best,

Alan

FWIW, I restrung several instruments under Bill Dowd's supervision some time back. He insisted on using shims of archival, acid free, rag paper. We put it in the holes exactly as Fred suggests above. Never had a problem with it. Glue will seep into the wood around the pin and stain it, I would think. 

Hadn't heard about using veneer for this before. Thanks Jim!

FWIW, I restrung several instruments under Bill Dowd's supervision some time back. He insisted on using shims of archival, acid free, rag paper. We put it in the holes exactly as Fred suggests above. Never had a problem with it. Glue will seep into the wood around the pin and stain it, I would think. 

Hadn't heard about using veneer for this before. Thanks Jim!

Also, I consulted an artist friend about this item and they asked what GSM (grams per square meter) I need. Any thoughts about that?

FWIW, I restrung several instruments under Bill Dowd's supervision some time back. He insisted on using shims of archival, acid free, rag paper. We put it in the holes exactly as Fred suggests above. Never had a problem with it. Glue will seep into the wood around the pin and stain it, I would think. 

Hadn't heard about using veneer for this before. Thanks Jim!

Also, I consulted an artist friend about this item and they asked what GSM (grams per square meter) I need. Any thoughts about that?

FWIW, I restrung several instruments under Bill Dowd's supervision some time back. He insisted on using shims of archival, acid free, rag paper. We put it in the holes exactly as Fred suggests above. Never had a problem with it. Glue will seep into the wood around the pin and stain it, I would think. 

Hadn't heard about using veneer for this before. Thanks Jim!

Also, I consulted an artist friend about this item and they asked what GSM (grams per square meter) I need. Any thoughts about that?

FWIW, I restrung several instruments under Bill Dowd's supervision some time back. He insisted on using shims of archival, acid free, rag paper. We put it in the holes exactly as Fred suggests above. Never had a problem with it. Glue will seep into the wood around the pin and stain it, I would think. 

Hadn't heard about using veneer for this before. Thanks Jim!

Illuminating as always, Fred. Thanks!

What has not been specified here is whether the pin is a historic smooth tapered pin or a modern zither pin.

With historic smooth pins the paper shim makes a beautifully tightened pin, very nice to tune. I would hesitate to use CA glue on a historic pin.

I have no experience repairing loose zither pins on harpsichords. CA swabbing might be fine. But remember that harpsichords don't need high torque.

Illuminating as always, Fred. Thanks!

Good point, Ed, about failure to specify which pin type. My bad. It is historical tapered (no threads or becket hole, for those just joining our program already in progress).

What has not been specified here is whether the pin is a historic smooth tapered pin or a modern zither pin.

With historic smooth pins the paper shim makes a beautifully tightened pin, very nice to tune. I would hesitate to use CA glue on a historic pin.

I have no experience repairing loose zither pins on harpsichords. CA swabbing might be fine. But remember that harpsichords don't need high torque.

Illuminating as always, Fred. Thanks!

Good point, Ed, about failure to specify which pin type. My bad. It is historical tapered (no threads or becket hole, for those just joining our program already in progress).

What has not been specified here is whether the pin is a historic smooth tapered pin or a modern zither pin.

With historic smooth pins the paper shim makes a beautifully tightened pin, very nice to tune. I would hesitate to use CA glue on a historic pin.

I have no experience repairing loose zither pins on harpsichords. CA swabbing might be fine. But remember that harpsichords don't need high torque.

Illuminating as always, Fred. Thanks!

Perhaps I misunderstood Ed. These smooth pins are tapered for the bottom few millimeters, but not along their entire length.

Good point, Ed, about failure to specify which pin type. My bad. It is historical tapered (no threads or becket hole, for those just joining our program already in progress).

What has not been specified here is whether the pin is a historic smooth tapered pin or a modern zither pin.

With historic smooth pins the paper shim makes a beautifully tightened pin, very nice to tune. I would hesitate to use CA glue on a historic pin.

I have no experience repairing loose zither pins on harpsichords. CA swabbing might be fine. But remember that harpsichords don't need high torque.

Illuminating as always, Fred. Thanks!

Illuminating as always, Fred. Thanks!