Pianotech

In the past 3 months I had occasion to temporarily remove the strings in the capo section of two high grade pianos. I decided to experiment with a hypothesis that turning the tuning pins sufficient (one-half to three quarters) to get the strings over the hitch pins might damage the cellular wood fibers of the pin block due to the heat generated by that action. As many of us know, when installing a new string, the turning of the pin when releasing and retightening of the string results in a loss of torque or jumping pins. With these two pianos I decided to reduce the generated heat by turning the pin only one-eighth to one quarter of a full turn then wait ten minutes and continue until my goal is met. After re-installation, I noticed no discernable reduction in torque. Was my experiment flawed or an anomaly? I'm not sure. If any technicians have occasion to change out a string and are willing to experiment with my hypothesis, I would like to hear your comments.

Upon reflection, I initially thought my hypothesis was flawed when comparing the damage(?) to wood fiber from over-heating when we drive a new pin vertically with a hammer. But on second analysis I realized that the heat generated by frictional contact area of a rotating pin is much greater than a driven pin.

In the past 3 months I had occasion to temporarily remove the strings in the capo section of two high grade pianos. I decided to experiment with a hypothesis that turning the tuning pins sufficient (one-half to three quarters) to get the strings over the hitch pins might damage the cellular wood fibers of the pin block due to the heat generated by that action. As many of us know, when installing a new string, the turning of the pin when releasing and retightening of the string results in a loss of torque or jumping pins. With these two pianos I decided to reduce the generated heat by turning the pin only one-eighth to one quarter of a full turn then wait ten minutes and continue until my goal is met. After re-installation, I noticed no discernable reduction in torque. Was my experiment flawed or an anomaly? I'm not sure. If any technicians have occasion to change out a string and are willing to experiment with my hypothesis, I would like to hear your comments.

Upon reflection, I initially thought my hypothesis was flawed when comparing the damage(?) to wood fiber from over-heating when we drive a new pin vertically with a hammer. But on second analysis I realized that the heat generated by frictional contact area of a rotating pin is much greater than a driven pin.

In the past 3 months I had occasion to temporarily remove the strings in the capo section of two high grade pianos. I decided to experiment with a hypothesis that turning the tuning pins sufficient (one-half to three quarters) to get the strings over the hitch pins might damage the cellular wood fibers of the pin block due to the heat generated by that action. As many of us know, when installing a new string, the turning of the pin when releasing and retightening of the string results in a loss of torque or jumping pins. With these two pianos I decided to reduce the generated heat by turning the pin only one-eighth to one quarter of a full turn then wait ten minutes and continue until my goal is met. After re-installation, I noticed no discernable reduction in torque. Was my experiment flawed or an anomaly? I'm not sure. If any technicians have occasion to change out a string and are willing to experiment with my hypothesis, I would like to hear your comments.

Upon reflection, I initially thought my hypothesis was flawed when comparing the damage(?) to wood fiber from over-heating when we drive a new pin vertically with a hammer. But on second analysis I realized that the heat generated by frictional contact area of a rotating pin is much greater than a driven pin.

Can't comment on whether the important factor is heat or just movement of pin in the block, though I'm somewhat inclined to the latter.  I have had two situations in the last year or two where the pins were simply too tight and fine tuning was not possible.  One was a rebuilt Steinway D in which oversize pins were used plus they went from 2 3/8" to 2 1/2" pins.  The piano was a bitch to tune (can I say that?).  I posted this on the list.  What I ended up doing was rotating each pin about 8 - 10 times back and forth about 1/4 turn each way after backing the pin off slightly to take the tension off first.  I did this quite slowly, did not let the pins cool between turns.  The method worked very effectively to reduce the torque and rendered the piano very tunable.  After doing several pins I got to where I could feel that the torque would end up where it wanted and when to stop.  I had a similar experience with a B that was also too tight ( for different reasons).  Same procedure.  FWIW I did only the upper half of the bass strings as I did not want to break anything.  I have also done this on individual strings that are snappy and it can work effectively there. 

Again, I can't report as to whether it was the heat or the turning--or both--but it was effective and no residual problems.  Good workout too!

In the past 3 months I had occasion to temporarily remove the strings in the capo section of two high grade pianos. I decided to experiment with a hypothesis that turning the tuning pins sufficient (one-half to three quarters) to get the strings over the hitch pins might damage the cellular wood fibers of the pin block due to the heat generated by that action. As many of us know, when installing a new string, the turning of the pin when releasing and retightening of the string results in a loss of torque or jumping pins. With these two pianos I decided to reduce the generated heat by turning the pin only one-eighth to one quarter of a full turn then wait ten minutes and continue until my goal is met. After re-installation, I noticed no discernable reduction in torque. Was my experiment flawed or an anomaly? I'm not sure. If any technicians have occasion to change out a string and are willing to experiment with my hypothesis, I would like to hear your comments.

Upon reflection, I initially thought my hypothesis was flawed when comparing the damage(?) to wood fiber from over-heating when we drive a new pin vertically with a hammer. But on second analysis I realized that the heat generated by frictional contact area of a rotating pin is much greater than a driven pin.

You mentioned the D was rebuilt with too tight tuning pins. Before proceeding with your torque reduction procedure did you discuss this condition with the owner so they could involve the re-stringing person to, hopefully, concur with your solution? Another variable (i.e. tuning pin manipulation) has been introduced into the system and not necessarily documented. Should another technician in the future feel the tuning pins are too loose, the re-stringer could be on the hook and expected to correct the situation. I would probably do the same thing for a couple of too tight pins but would be hesitant to do the whole piano. 

Can't comment on whether the important factor is heat or just movement of pin in the block, though I'm somewhat inclined to the latter.  I have had two situations in the last year or two where the pins were simply too tight and fine tuning was not possible.  One was a rebuilt Steinway D in which oversize pins were used plus they went from 2 3/8" to 2 1/2" pins.  The piano was a bitch to tune (can I say that?).  I posted this on the list.  What I ended up doing was rotating each pin about 8 - 10 times back and forth about 1/4 turn each way after backing the pin off slightly to take the tension off first.  I did this quite slowly, did not let the pins cool between turns.  The method worked very effectively to reduce the torque and rendered the piano very tunable.  After doing several pins I got to where I could feel that the torque would end up where it wanted and when to stop.  I had a similar experience with a B that was also too tight ( for different reasons).  Same procedure.  FWIW I did only the upper half of the bass strings as I did not want to break anything.  I have also done this on individual strings that are snappy and it can work effectively there. 

Again, I can't report as to whether it was the heat or the turning--or both--but it was effective and no residual problems.  Good workout too!

In the past 3 months I had occasion to temporarily remove the strings in the capo section of two high grade pianos. I decided to experiment with a hypothesis that turning the tuning pins sufficient (one-half to three quarters) to get the strings over the hitch pins might damage the cellular wood fibers of the pin block due to the heat generated by that action. As many of us know, when installing a new string, the turning of the pin when releasing and retightening of the string results in a loss of torque or jumping pins. With these two pianos I decided to reduce the generated heat by turning the pin only one-eighth to one quarter of a full turn then wait ten minutes and continue until my goal is met. After re-installation, I noticed no discernable reduction in torque. Was my experiment flawed or an anomaly? I'm not sure. If any technicians have occasion to change out a string and are willing to experiment with my hypothesis, I would like to hear your comments.

Upon reflection, I initially thought my hypothesis was flawed when comparing the damage(?) to wood fiber from over-heating when we drive a new pin vertically with a hammer. But on second analysis I realized that the heat generated by frictional contact area of a rotating pin is much greater than a driven pin.

You mentioned the D was rebuilt with too tight tuning pins. Before proceeding with your torque reduction procedure did you discuss this condition with the owner so they could involve the re-stringing person to, hopefully, concur with your solution? Another variable (i.e. tuning pin manipulation) has been introduced into the system and not necessarily documented. Should another technician in the future feel the tuning pins are too loose, the re-stringer could be on the hook and expected to correct the situation. I would probably do the same thing for a couple of too tight pins but would be hesitant to do the whole piano. 

Can't comment on whether the important factor is heat or just movement of pin in the block, though I'm somewhat inclined to the latter.  I have had two situations in the last year or two where the pins were simply too tight and fine tuning was not possible.  One was a rebuilt Steinway D in which oversize pins were used plus they went from 2 3/8" to 2 1/2" pins.  The piano was a bitch to tune (can I say that?).  I posted this on the list.  What I ended up doing was rotating each pin about 8 - 10 times back and forth about 1/4 turn each way after backing the pin off slightly to take the tension off first.  I did this quite slowly, did not let the pins cool between turns.  The method worked very effectively to reduce the torque and rendered the piano very tunable.  After doing several pins I got to where I could feel that the torque would end up where it wanted and when to stop.  I had a similar experience with a B that was also too tight ( for different reasons).  Same procedure.  FWIW I did only the upper half of the bass strings as I did not want to break anything.  I have also done this on individual strings that are snappy and it can work effectively there. 

Again, I can't report as to whether it was the heat or the turning--or both--but it was effective and no residual problems.  Good workout too!

In the past 3 months I had occasion to temporarily remove the strings in the capo section of two high grade pianos. I decided to experiment with a hypothesis that turning the tuning pins sufficient (one-half to three quarters) to get the strings over the hitch pins might damage the cellular wood fibers of the pin block due to the heat generated by that action. As many of us know, when installing a new string, the turning of the pin when releasing and retightening of the string results in a loss of torque or jumping pins. With these two pianos I decided to reduce the generated heat by turning the pin only one-eighth to one quarter of a full turn then wait ten minutes and continue until my goal is met. After re-installation, I noticed no discernable reduction in torque. Was my experiment flawed or an anomaly? I'm not sure. If any technicians have occasion to change out a string and are willing to experiment with my hypothesis, I would like to hear your comments.

Upon reflection, I initially thought my hypothesis was flawed when comparing the damage(?) to wood fiber from over-heating when we drive a new pin vertically with a hammer. But on second analysis I realized that the heat generated by frictional contact area of a rotating pin is much greater than a driven pin.