Pianotech

Hi List

Early on in the development of the Yamaha Disklavier series, I was one of the early experts for these instruments and own 2 of them.  However, I've haven't kept up on my calibration skills with the newer platforms.

I have a DC6  that is shutting down after a few minutes of play. On the earlier models, this was usually a sign that the pedals were out of calibration, or the pedal board needed replacing.

I need to get this issue resolved soon, so I would welcome your tutorials on the pedal calibration, or if you think it might be something else.

Thanks in advance!

Hi List

Early on in the development of the Yamaha Disklavier series, I was one of the early experts for these instruments and own 2 of them.  However, I've haven't kept up on my calibration skills with the newer platforms.

I have a DC6  that is shutting down after a few minutes of play. On the earlier models, this was usually a sign that the pedals were out of calibration, or the pedal board needed replacing.

I need to get this issue resolved soon, so I would welcome your tutorials on the pedal calibration, or if you think it might be something else.

Thanks in advance!

Well, you are looking at one happy camper. Ryan from Yamaha Tech services walked me through the entire calibration process on the Mark IV.  There are some unique aspects of this platform, as using the interface remote takes a bit of getting used to.  Once I got comfortable with everything, navigating my way through the process was quite logical.

So this what I've learned :

The sustain pedal throw distance is absolutely critical. It has to be 15 mm on the money.   If it gets into the 17mm- 20 mm range, for which what was happening here, the solenoid will overheat, and the pedal shuts off.

If you find yourself in this situation, take the back of the pedal mechanism face plate off.  On the pedal rods are 2 scribed lines.  The top line needs to be absolutely parallel with the base of the pedal mechanism case.

If you are using a typical metal metric 6' ruler, the width of those types of rulers are exactly 15mm. Use that has your guide and it's pretty straightforward.

The other thing, when this does shut down, the remainder of the piano will keep playing. Its just shutting down the pedal mechanism.

We went through the entire calibration process and the system is working perfectly.  Kudos to Ryan, thank you enough for taking the time to walk me through the process.

Hi List

Early on in the development of the Yamaha Disklavier series, I was one of the early experts for these instruments and own 2 of them.  However, I've haven't kept up on my calibration skills with the newer platforms.

I have a DC6  that is shutting down after a few minutes of play. On the earlier models, this was usually a sign that the pedals were out of calibration, or the pedal board needed replacing.

I need to get this issue resolved soon, so I would welcome your tutorials on the pedal calibration, or if you think it might be something else.

Thanks in advance!

Well, you are looking at one happy camper. Ryan from Yamaha Tech services walked me through the entire calibration process on the Mark IV.  There are some unique aspects of this platform, as using the interface remote takes a bit of getting used to.  Once I got comfortable with everything, navigating my way through the process was quite logical.

So this what I've learned :

The sustain pedal throw distance is absolutely critical. It has to be 15 mm on the money.   If it gets into the 17mm- 20 mm range, for which what was happening here, the solenoid will overheat, and the pedal shuts off.

If you find yourself in this situation, take the back of the pedal mechanism face plate off.  On the pedal rods are 2 scribed lines.  The top line needs to be absolutely parallel with the base of the pedal mechanism case.

If you are using a typical metal metric 6' ruler, the width of those types of rulers are exactly 15mm. Use that has your guide and it's pretty straightforward.

The other thing, when this does shut down, the remainder of the piano will keep playing. Its just shutting down the pedal mechanism.

We went through the entire calibration process and the system is working perfectly.  Kudos to Ryan, thank you enough for taking the time to walk me through the process.

Hi List

Early on in the development of the Yamaha Disklavier series, I was one of the early experts for these instruments and own 2 of them.  However, I've haven't kept up on my calibration skills with the newer platforms.

I have a DC6  that is shutting down after a few minutes of play. On the earlier models, this was usually a sign that the pedals were out of calibration, or the pedal board needed replacing.

I need to get this issue resolved soon, so I would welcome your tutorials on the pedal calibration, or if you think it might be something else.

Thanks in advance!

James and List

I forgot to mention one other thing that we had to do to make this happen. And thank you James for jogging my memory. The first thing that Ryan told me to get  ( before I went back to the piano) is to get a 6ft high level RCA cable, as those break down with age and can be the root of a lot of problems.  Those cables on the piano are blue and green RCA type. The really early on models, it was a straight RCA with blue and green tape wrapped on.  Those turned out to be problematic.

Well sure enough, when we started the calibration process, 90% of the checks were not registering with the computer system.  So I swapped the RCA cables out, and bingo, that opened up the communication line.

Ryan urges those who service these older units to keep this in mind.

On a higher level, its sure a benefit to us working in the field when you can get a factory tech on the line willing to go the distance with the service techs to resolve problems. Can't say enough good things about the Yamaha service center. They got this dialed in correctly and I wish all the companies would follow suit.

Well, you are looking at one happy camper. Ryan from Yamaha Tech services walked me through the entire calibration process on the Mark IV.  There are some unique aspects of this platform, as using the interface remote takes a bit of getting used to.  Once I got comfortable with everything, navigating my way through the process was quite logical.

So this what I've learned :

The sustain pedal throw distance is absolutely critical. It has to be 15 mm on the money.   If it gets into the 17mm- 20 mm range, for which what was happening here, the solenoid will overheat, and the pedal shuts off.

If you find yourself in this situation, take the back of the pedal mechanism face plate off.  On the pedal rods are 2 scribed lines.  The top line needs to be absolutely parallel with the base of the pedal mechanism case.

If you are using a typical metal metric 6' ruler, the width of those types of rulers are exactly 15mm. Use that has your guide and it's pretty straightforward.

The other thing, when this does shut down, the remainder of the piano will keep playing. Its just shutting down the pedal mechanism.

We went through the entire calibration process and the system is working perfectly.  Kudos to Ryan, thank you enough for taking the time to walk me through the process.

Hi List

Early on in the development of the Yamaha Disklavier series, I was one of the early experts for these instruments and own 2 of them.  However, I've haven't kept up on my calibration skills with the newer platforms.

I have a DC6  that is shutting down after a few minutes of play. On the earlier models, this was usually a sign that the pedals were out of calibration, or the pedal board needed replacing.

I need to get this issue resolved soon, so I would welcome your tutorials on the pedal calibration, or if you think it might be something else.

Thanks in advance!