From "Encore Pianos" <encorepianos@metrocast.net>
Well done, John. I give you permission to use that often. I?ll try to take
some ?pichers? and post to the forum.
Will
From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf
Of John Formsma
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2012 10:31 PM
To: pianotech@ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] plate finishing
See attached.
:-)
On Tue, May 8, 2012 at 9:19 PM, Dale Erwin <erwinspiano@aol.com> wrote:
Hi Will
Wow...you must a been a fly on our wall this week. Thanks for the
detailed information. We may try this asap.
As one who has struggled at times with the plate spray procedure this
sounds quite predictable and with finishes, that's really what I am looking
for is a predictable outcome.
The problem I've had with Poly urethane clear coats is that they attract
dust like a magnet. So even with a spotless environment, inevitably there is
a the dust. So how was that defeated in you process?
We ahve used acrylic lacquer for 14 years & most the time I like it. The
clear is easy to mange by a clean room and wetting the floor. Spray and get
out. No fan till it flashes off ten minutes later.
Our process is very similar to yours and its generally easy to touch up
and fairly idiot proof. But on occasion Murphy comes a round and then I'm
unhappy.
Murphys my Uncle
Dale
Dale Erwin... RPT
Mason & Hamlin/Steinway/U.S pianos
www.Erwinspiano.com
209-577-8397
Original Message-----
From: Encore Pianos <encorepianos@metrocast.net>
To: pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Tue, May 8, 2012 6:44 pm
Subject: [pianotech] plate finishing
Recently I revisited my plate finishing process for my rebuilds and have
made some changes to my process. I am using automotive paints and primers.
While these materials are more expensive than throwing some plate gold into
a can of Nitro lacquer, they will give a better finish and are more durable.
Automotive paints are more evolved than the lacquers that we use in our case
finishing. But it?s a big industry and can be confusing when trying to find
your way to good products that will best meet your particular needs. It is
invaluable to be able to deal with an experienced paint pro at the
automotive finishing department at your local auto parts store. I spent a
lot of time talking with a fellow named Joe Red Cloud, whose been doing this
stuff for 25 years, and he has done (and still does) auto painting on the
side. His wife runs the video store in my town and I have known him for
years. He is a film buff like me, so I was lucky to have a very friendly
helping hand to guide me.
It is important to have a clear sense of what you want the paints to do for
you.
I started using auto paints 10 years or so ago when I was having some
adhesion problems that persisted through a couple of plates (I was using
nitro lacquers and metallic gold powders). So I wanted to go to a system
that could give me consistent results. So I was advised primer, base coat,
clear coat. At that time, I was able to find a particular color of gold
auto paint that matched the old Steinway color pretty much dead on the
money. I used to love to bring a customer into the shop and show them the
plate, telling them that I was able to find these extra special materials.
They?d look at it and say, ?It?s so beautiful?. I?d say, ?ask me what it
is?. ?What is it??, and I would reply with a smile, ?Dodge Dart Gold?.
They no longer make it, and it is pretty hard to find gold paints,
particularly ones that you like. Instead of a pre-mix gold, I will add a
gold metallic powder to my base coat. I have been able to find a couple of
good sources for various shades of Gold. Larry Buck turned me onto a
company called Crescent Bronze, which has many colors of gold. They are at,
<http://www.crescentbronze.com/order_products/chromatone>
http://www.crescentbronze.com/order_products/chromatone. Unfortunately, the
color charts online are all but worthless, so you would need to order some
color charts from them. Not so for at
https://www.nnigroup.com/glandmp/default.aspx . They have about 75 shades
of gold, and large circular patterns that clearly show the color. Prices
vary depending on the color, but generally about $20 for 6 oz., $41 for 16
oz. Those amounts will do a lot of plates.
I start with the primer. Primer is important for a couple of reasons. It
will adhere to the sanded surface of the original paint and bond well with
the top coats. Also, primer will sand more easily than the top coats and
can go a long way to having a level and smooth surface for the succeeding
coats to adhere to. I will have washed the plate and wet sanded it with
220 wet and dry paper. Putty the dings and wacks with bondo or another
filling putty and sand level and even.
I discovered a new primer that I really, really like because it sands so
easily, but gives you a very smooth surface when you are done. It is SEM
High Build Primer Surfacer, and is available in 5 colors. It only comes in
20 oz. aerosols, (about $17) which was surprising to me ? it is not
available in quarts or gallons. That is not necessarily a bad thing. The
aerosols spray well and lay finish quickly. If you sand through your primer
and need to touch up a few spots, you don?t have to clean the gun. 1 to 1
/2 cans is enough to do the average plate, spraying on 3 coats at 10 minute
intervals.
I was amazed at how easily and quickly it sanded, powdered right up and did
not clog the paper. In fact, I found it better to use Scotch Brite Scuff
Pads, starting with Maroon and going to Grey. They worked as quickly as the
sandpaper, but had the added advantage of conforming to the irregular curves
of the plate readily. Less sand through. I spent about 2 hours scuffing
the plate smooth as a baby?s bottom after priming.
It?s the best primer I have used. It?s really important to spend your
sanding time here to get a good surface to lay the paint on. The sanding
will never be any quicker or easier than at this point, and you are laying
the foundation for top coats that will lay down smoothly. Joe told me that
the collision guys love this stuff because it works so easily and is
fantastic for spot repairs. Highly recommended.
It used to be my practice to mix the gold powders with the top coat clear
and spray it on, then follow with the clear.
There is a better way to do it than that. Joe turned me onto what is called
an Intercoat Carrier. That is a clear that is specially formulated to mix
with metallic powders or pearls. It will hold the particles in suspension
better than a straight clear, and flows out and levels better. I sprayed a
couple of test panels, one with regular clear, one with the intercoat clear.
Night and day difference ? the intercoat carrier definitely lays down much
better. The one that I use , Deltron DBC-870 Intercoat Carrier is $108 per
quart. But you mix it 1:1 with reducer, so that?s really 2 quarts, and you
will use about 2/3 quart for a plate. Three wet coats at 15 minute
intervals. Let sit for ? hour and you can then clearcoat. Otherwise you
will need to scuff before you clearcoat. The intercoat carriers do require
a top clearcoat.
For the clearcoat, I use Dupont ChromaClear HC-7776S Clearcoat, with Dupont
ChromaBase 4 to 17765S activator reducer. Since I do not like the high
gloss glitter of the clears, the Chromaclear is mixed with One Choice SU4985
universal matting agent. This allows me to control the sheen, which I
prefer as a semigloss. This will give depth to your finish and accentuate
the curves of the plate with a bit of glow, and draw out the colors more.
2 to 3 coats at 5 minute intervals. I do not sand or polish the top coat.
For plate lettering, I used the Shachihata Artline 400XF paint marker,
which I got from a local art supply store. It?s a felt tip, and the pigment
in the paint covered well, comes in 2 sizes.
I don?t pretend to be an expert here. Rather, I am sharing the expertise
of others and reporting the positive results that I have had, so that others
may benefit if they are so inclined. I would love it if others share what
they have learned along the way that has brought them good results.
Will Truitt
--
John Formsma, RPT
Blue Mountain, MS