CAUT

Hello all,

What tool do you recommend for spacing grand hammers while the action is in place?  I will be mostly working on Steinway and Boston grand pianos.

------------------------------
David Pritchard
Lynchburg VA
434-841-7735
------------------------------

Well, that would be a flange spacing  tool and there are several different types depending on the shape of the flange. Check the supply house catalogues and you should own all of them. Short of that, a screwdriver.

------------------------------
David Love RPT
www.davidlovepianos.com
davidlovepianos@comcast.net
415 407 8320
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 09-18-2015 21:58
From: David Pritchard
Subject: Flange Spacing Tool

Hello all,

What tool do you recommend for spacing grand hammers while the action is in place?  I will be mostly working on Steinway and Boston grand pianos.

------------------------------
David Pritchard
Lynchburg VA
434-841-7735
------------------------------

I agree. A thin bladed screwdriver and a hammer. That's what I learned at the factory and I have since thrown out all the tools I used to use on Steinway flanges.

Chris


Original Message------

Well, that would be a flange spacing  tool and there are several different types depending on the shape of the flange. Check the supply house catalogues and you should own all of them. Short of that, a screwdriver.

------------------------------
David Love RPT
www.davidlovepianos.com
davidlovepianos@comcast.net
415 407 8320
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-18-2015 21:58
From: David Pritchard
Subject: Flange Spacing Tool

Hello all,

What tool do you recommend for spacing grand hammers while the action is in place?  I will be mostly working on Steinway and Boston grand pianos.

------------------------------
David Pritchard
Lynchburg VA
434-841-7735
------------------------------

Ok. That makes sense. I have been using that blade type tool and a small hammer but noticed that the supply houses say that tool is for upright flanges. I was just curious if there was something better.

David Pritchard.

Sent from my iPhone


Original Message------

I agree. A thin bladed screwdriver and a hammer. That's what I learned at the factory and I have since thrown out all the tools I used to use on Steinway flanges.

Chris

I use one like Pianotek Part# FS-5 for Steinway. I find it much faster than the blade and hammer, when it works, which it doesn't if the flanges are spaced too close together (which they always are in some sections). You also need to space the flanges on the rail, so that there are gaps between them all, rather than allow them to be random (that actually ends up helping the process of spacing to strings). It takes a bit of getting used to, getting the spacer over the flange easily and efficiently, but once you learn the feel, it goes very fast. 

Like David Love, I have them all (and use them when possible). I think the Kawai system is the best for the process, with the taper on the end making it very convenient. Yamaha, you need a different style of spacer from the Steinway one, that straddles the nub that holds the centerpin. The geometry is just different enough that they don't interchange. Does Boston have the same shape flange as Steinway?

------------------------------
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm@unm.edu
http://fredsturm.net
http://www.artoftuning.com
"We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 09-18-2015 22:41
From: David Pritchard
Subject: Flange Spacing Tool

Ok. That makes sense. I have been using that blade type tool and a small hammer but noticed that the supply houses say that tool is for upright flanges. I was just curious if there was something better.

David Pritchard.

Sent from my iPhone

David

The correct way to space hammers on a Steinway is to move the flange left or right. Mark which way the hammer needs to move. Pull the action, unscrew the flange, and move the flange over. If moving the flange over isn't enough, then "space" the flange. That is why the Steinway flanges are shaped the way they are. If the hammer needs to be moved to the left, put traveling paper under the left front edge of the flange. (Not all the over, like your traveling the hammer, but just on the front edge of the flange.)  This is also the proper way of spacing wippens.

------------------------------
Willem "Wim" Blees, RPT
Mililani, HI 96789
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 09-18-2015 21:58
From: David Pritchard
Subject: Flange Spacing Tool

Hello all,

What tool do you recommend for spacing grand hammers while the action is in place?  I will be mostly working on Steinway and Boston grand pianos.

------------------------------
David Pritchard
Lynchburg VA
434-841-7735
------------------------------

This is also the proper way of spacing wippens.

Actually, I don't think this is true.  If you can't correct spacing by the 'loosen screw and shift left or right' method, then papering the entire side will work.  If you do the corners, you'll be 'traveling' the wip.

------------------------------
David Skolnik
Hastings-on-Hudson NY
914-231-7565
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 09-18-2015 23:05
From: Willem Blees
Subject: Flange Spacing Tool

David

The correct way to space hammers on a Steinway is to move the flange left or right. Mark which way the hammer needs to move. Pull the action, unscrew the flange, and move the flange over. If moving the flange over isn't enough, then "space" the flange. That is why the Steinway flanges are shaped the way they are. If the hammer needs to be moved to the left, put traveling paper under the left front edge of the flange. (Not all the over, like your traveling the hammer, but just on the front edge of the flange.)  This is also the proper way of spacing wippens.

------------------------------
Willem "Wim" Blees, RPT
Mililani, HI 96789
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-18-2015 21:58
From: David Pritchard
Subject: Flange Spacing Tool

Hello all,

What tool do you recommend for spacing grand hammers while the action is in place?  I will be mostly working on Steinway and Boston grand pianos.

------------------------------
David Pritchard
Lynchburg VA
434-841-7735
------------------------------

David

I stand corrected

------------------------------
Willem "Wim" Blees, RPT
Mililani, HI 96789
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 09-18-2015 23:31
From: David Skolnik
Subject: Flange Spacing Tool

This is also the proper way of spacing wippens.

Actually, I don't think this is true.  If you can't correct spacing by the 'loosen screw and shift left or right' method, then papering the entire side will work.  If you do the corners, you'll be 'traveling' the wip.

------------------------------
David Skolnik
Hastings-on-Hudson NY
914-231-7565
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-18-2015 23:05
From: Willem Blees
Subject: Flange Spacing Tool

David

The correct way to space hammers on a Steinway is to move the flange left or right. Mark which way the hammer needs to move. Pull the action, unscrew the flange, and move the flange over. If moving the flange over isn't enough, then "space" the flange. That is why the Steinway flanges are shaped the way they are. If the hammer needs to be moved to the left, put traveling paper under the left front edge of the flange. (Not all the over, like your traveling the hammer, but just on the front edge of the flange.)  This is also the proper way of spacing wippens.

------------------------------
Willem "Wim" Blees, RPT
Mililani, HI 96789
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-18-2015 21:58
From: David Pritchard
Subject: Flange Spacing Tool

Hello all,

What tool do you recommend for spacing grand hammers while the action is in place?  I will be mostly working on Steinway and Boston grand pianos.

------------------------------
David Pritchard
Lynchburg VA
434-841-7735
------------------------------

On 9/18/2015 11:05 PM, Willem Blees via Piano Technicians Guild wrote:

> David
>
> I stand corrected

The official procedure according to Bill Garlick at the week long
seminar in the Mother Ship was to space hammers as you described,
visually, and to shim and travel them to hit the strings where you
wanted afterward. I don't recall what the official call was on the
wippens, but if you'd like to have them center on both the capstans and
the knuckles, corner shimming looks to be pretty necessary.
Ron N


Original Message------

Hello all,

What tool do you recommend for spacing grand hammers while the action is in place?  I will be mostly working on Steinway and Boston grand pianos.

------------------------------
David Pritchard
Lynchburg VA
434-841-7735
------------------------------

Well, there is coarse spacing and then there is refined spacing. In the rebuilding mode, putting on new parts, you do the things like cross papering (if necessary), and shifting the flange left or right. But then when it comes time to adjust them so all of the hammers will leave the left string at the same time, a flange spacing tool, or the hammer and blade method, is the way to go. 

A Steinway flange can be shifted enough for a 1 - 2 mm movement one way or the other with the screw in place, using either method, and stay there, as I know from many, many years of observation. Not always, so when it won't you have to pull the keyboard/action assembly and do something else, but for the regular fine adjustments the inside the cavity methods work well and are far more efficient in time spent and in refinement of results obtained.

BTW, Eric Schandall taught the blade and hammer method, about 10 years ago. The mother ship instructions shift with the tides of time and personnel changes.

There is also the Hamburg method, where you space them perfectly (so they all have equal gaps between them at rest), then travel them to meet their strings. Personally I consider that - well, I guess I'll refrain from using the language that comes immediately to mind - "counterproductive to good tone quality" and "contrary to best practices." For me, travel is to achieve vertical motion, period. 

------------------------------
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm@unm.edu
http://fredsturm.net
http://www.artoftuning.com
"We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 09-19-2015 00:20
From: Ronald Nossaman
Subject: Flange Spacing Tool

On 9/18/2015 11:05 PM, Willem Blees via Piano Technicians Guild wrote:

> David
>
> I stand corrected

The official procedure according to Bill Garlick at the week long
seminar in the Mother Ship was to space hammers as you described,
visually, and to shim and travel them to hit the strings where you
wanted afterward. I don't recall what the official call was on the
wippens, but if you'd like to have them center on both the capstans and
the knuckles, corner shimming looks to be pretty necessary.
Ron N

> BTW, Eric Schandall taught the blade and hammer method, about 10
> years ago. The mother ship instructions shift with the tides of time
> and personnel changes.

As does the history. Methods should have the potential to change though,
I'd think. Refinements are nearly always possible.


> There is also the Hamburg method, where you space them perfectly (so
> they all have equal gaps between them at rest), then travel them to
> meet their strings.

Yes, that's exactly the procedure Bill Garlick outlined as being used at
that time in New York.
Ron N


Original Message------

Well, there is coarse spacing and then there is refined spacing. In the rebuilding mode, putting on new parts, you do the things like cross papering (if necessary), and shifting the flange left or right. But then when it comes time to adjust them so all of the hammers will leave the left string at the same time, a flange spacing tool, or the hammer and blade method, is the way to go. 

A Steinway flange can be shifted enough for a 1 - 2 mm movement one way or the other with the screw in place, using either method, and stay there, as I know from many, many years of observation. Not always, so when it won't you have to pull the keyboard/action assembly and do something else, but for the regular fine adjustments the inside the cavity methods work well and are far more efficient in time spent and in refinement of results obtained.

BTW, Eric Schandall taught the blade and hammer method, about 10 years ago. The mother ship instructions shift with the tides of time and personnel changes.

There is also the Hamburg method, where you space them perfectly (so they all have equal gaps between them at rest), then travel them to meet their strings. Personally I consider that - well, I guess I'll refrain from using the language that comes immediately to mind - "counterproductive to good tone quality" and "contrary to best practices." For me, travel is to achieve vertical motion, period. 

------------------------------
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm@unm.edu
http://fredsturm.net
http://www.artoftuning.com
"We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-19-2015 00:20
From: Ronald Nossaman
Subject: Flange Spacing Tool

On 9/18/2015 11:05 PM, Willem Blees via Piano Technicians Guild wrote:

> David
>
> I stand corrected

The official procedure according to Bill Garlick at the week long
seminar in the Mother Ship was to space hammers as you described,
visually, and to shim and travel them to hit the strings where you
wanted afterward. I don't recall what the official call was on the
wippens, but if you'd like to have them center on both the capstans and
the knuckles, corner shimming looks to be pretty necessary.
Ron N

Re the Garlick/Hamburg protocol...I don't see what value having all the
shank spacing purrty at rest has do do with the price of rice.

I suppose its prioritizing whip spicing to the theoretical center of the
capstan...perhaps. But theoretical doesn't match as-built keyboards,
often, or even mostly (except Yamaha or something like that). So you
end up with catch as catch can on the capstan/whip interface by default,
then have a hammer traveling non-vertically to boot. Maybe they want to
see the knuckles centered on the whip at that theoretical starting
capstan alighnment, to start the stroke, but then whatever advantage
knuckles centered on jacks might seem to have is then compromised as the
traveled hammers slide laterally on the jacks.

Worst for me is, since you have forgone the vertical reference of the
hammer/shank, you are really left with very approximate traveling
proofs. Traveling of the shank in the land of inevitable compromises,
seems to me to be way more important than other marginally negotiable
parameters... it just seems to set one swimming in a sea of unknowns,
for not-clear-what reasons....mysitfied I am...


Original Message------

> BTW, Eric Schandall taught the blade and hammer method, about 10
> years ago. The mother ship instructions shift with the tides of time
> and personnel changes.

As does the history. Methods should have the potential to change though,
I'd think. Refinements are nearly always possible.


> There is also the Hamburg method, where you space them perfectly (so
> they all have equal gaps between them at rest), then travel them to
> meet their strings.

Yes, that's exactly the procedure Bill Garlick outlined as being used at
that time in New York.
Ron N

There is a mindset, especially in Germany, of very precise and perfect spacing and alignment. I got a very good taste of it at the Sauter factory with uprights, where the hammers were perfectly even, checks perfectly spaced and perfectly vertical, etc. What I thought was pretty darned good had them with their bending pliers and screwdrivers making minute adjustments to show me what was expected.

I actually digested a lot of that mindset, as if you are disciplined about it in set up, when you go back in a few months it will be obvious what has shifted and what needs to be done, and it also just plain gets you focused on precision and consistency, which is a good thing. I confess to having been pretty lazy in that regard. It doesn't take that much more time to do the precise thing.

OTOH, with grands, the agraffe spacing will never be perfect (though it can easily be better than it was for Steinway for a few decades). So the question becomes whether you allow the spacing of the hammers to conform to the string spacing you can't change, or do you take even hammer spacing as a given and make adjustment so that it can happen. Hamburg does the latter. I don't guess their agraffe spacing is all that irregular, so the travel added to hammers is probably minimal (I haven't been there to find out, but a colleague who was there recently confirmed that).

Now if you space hammers and adjust shift so the hammer never leaves the left string, this becomes far less critical, the hammers don't need to be spaced so precisely to the strings but can be a little one way or another and still meet the conditions. I've been doing that on Bs and Ds the past few years to avoid the damping problem that comes up when una corda is used. (BTW, I noticed that problem being complained about in Pianomania, one of the very interesting little details in that crazy film).

------------------------------
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm@unm.edu
http://fredsturm.net
http://www.artoftuning.com
"We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 09-19-2015 13:42
From: Jim Ialeggio
Subject: Flange Spacing Tool

Re the Garlick/Hamburg protocol...I don't see what value having all the
shank spacing purrty at rest has do do with the price of rice.

I suppose its prioritizing whip spicing to the theoretical center of the
capstan...perhaps. But theoretical doesn't match as-built keyboards,
often, or even mostly (except Yamaha or something like that). So you
end up with catch as catch can on the capstan/whip interface by default,
then have a hammer traveling non-vertically to boot. Maybe they want to
see the knuckles centered on the whip at that theoretical starting
capstan alighnment, to start the stroke, but then whatever advantage
knuckles centered on jacks might seem to have is then compromised as the
traveled hammers slide laterally on the jacks.

Worst for me is, since you have forgone the vertical reference of the
hammer/shank, you are really left with very approximate traveling
proofs. Traveling of the shank in the land of inevitable compromises,
seems to me to be way more important than other marginally negotiable
parameters... it just seems to set one swimming in a sea of unknowns,
for not-clear-what reasons....mysitfied I am...

In the last two days I have lost two replies to the 'ether'. I know, I'm supposed to have composed them off-line... things seem to have been working reasonably well lately, so I got careless. I can't recompose yet again, but here’s the essence-
- Steinway tool can tend to shift position of adjacent flanges, if it fits at all
- even use of thin screw driver or spacing tool will do this, in the treble sections where flanges are closer together
- rotating Steinway style flange on rail is counter to the ‘lock-in’ design, especially if they’ve already been actively cross-papered (corners)
- older (can’t cite dates) flanges were wider – allowing even less room between – and screw holes were smaller, eliminating the ‘shift left or right’ option we have in current production.

------------------------------
David Skolnik
Hastings-on-Hudson NY
914-231-7565
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 09-19-2015 13:42
From: Jim Ialeggio
Subject: Flange Spacing Tool

Re the Garlick/Hamburg protocol...I don't see what value having all the
shank spacing purrty at rest has do do with the price of rice.

I suppose its prioritizing whip spicing to the theoretical center of the
capstan...perhaps. But theoretical doesn't match as-built keyboards,
often, or even mostly (except Yamaha or something like that). So you
end up with catch as catch can on the capstan/whip interface by default,
then have a hammer traveling non-vertically to boot. Maybe they want to
see the knuckles centered on the whip at that theoretical starting
capstan alighnment, to start the stroke, but then whatever advantage
knuckles centered on jacks might seem to have is then compromised as the
traveled hammers slide laterally on the jacks.

Worst for me is, since you have forgone the vertical reference of the
hammer/shank, you are really left with very approximate traveling
proofs. Traveling of the shank in the land of inevitable compromises,
seems to me to be way more important than other marginally negotiable
parameters... it just seems to set one swimming in a sea of unknowns,
for not-clear-what reasons....mysitfied I am...

And then there's the reality.  Was in shop yesterday and had piano (SS B) and tool in hand.  The only section that had insufficient room for tool was the next to last treble.  Worked fine. Too fine, by which I mean that I'm concerned that this set up (Abel flanges and black, self-adhesive felt on hammerflange rail) will have a tendency to move around.  I'll take a look today, but I suspect that there is not enough of a tight fit of the flange corners to the rail to make cross papering effective.  

But using tool sure was easy.

------------------------------
David Skolnik
Hastings-on-Hudson NY
914-231-7565
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 09-20-2015 06:15
From: David Skolnik
Subject: Flange Spacing Tool

In the last two days I have lost two replies to the 'ether'. I know, I'm supposed to have composed them off-line... things seem to have been working reasonably well lately, so I got careless. I can't recompose yet again, but here’s the essence-
- Steinway tool can tend to shift position of adjacent flanges, if it fits at all
- even use of thin screw driver or spacing tool will do this, in the treble sections where flanges are closer together
- rotating Steinway style flange on rail is counter to the ‘lock-in’ design, especially if they’ve already been actively cross-papered (corners)
- older (can’t cite dates) flanges were wider – allowing even less room between – and screw holes were smaller, eliminating the ‘shift left or right’ option we have in current production.

------------------------------
David Skolnik
Hastings-on-Hudson NY
914-231-7565
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-19-2015 13:42
From: Jim Ialeggio
Subject: Flange Spacing Tool

Re the Garlick/Hamburg protocol...I don't see what value having all the
shank spacing purrty at rest has do do with the price of rice.

I suppose its prioritizing whip spicing to the theoretical center of the
capstan...perhaps. But theoretical doesn't match as-built keyboards,
often, or even mostly (except Yamaha or something like that). So you
end up with catch as catch can on the capstan/whip interface by default,
then have a hammer traveling non-vertically to boot. Maybe they want to
see the knuckles centered on the whip at that theoretical starting
capstan alighnment, to start the stroke, but then whatever advantage
knuckles centered on jacks might seem to have is then compromised as the
traveled hammers slide laterally on the jacks.

Worst for me is, since you have forgone the vertical reference of the
hammer/shank, you are really left with very approximate traveling
proofs. Traveling of the shank in the land of inevitable compromises,
seems to me to be way more important than other marginally negotiable
parameters... it just seems to set one swimming in a sea of unknowns,
for not-clear-what reasons....mysitfied I am...

Using felt seems counter productive. Try fine emory cloth and double-sided tape (3M makes 1/2" strips for window shrink plastic. 

------------------------------
Regards,

Jon Page

I have, in the last couple of years done a bunch of Steinway action
frame rebuilds, so I got to talk to numbers of techs regarding their
empirical experience regarding choice of rail felts or emery cloth, or
nothing.

Of course there is no consensus, but there does seem to be a series of
trad-offs one can choose to accept.

-self-stick thin felt S&S used to supply...I say used to because I'm
pretty sure their current go to is string braid...so I'm not sure they
are supplying this any more. Tradeoffs...relative mushy placement of
action centers vs good shank mating to string memory. Some reported,
that seasonally, when flanges loosened up a bit, the felts memory guided
the flange back to the original position.

-fine emery or light backing 220 silicon carbide...less mushy center
placement. Memory ok if a little dab of shellac is used, otherwise, with
no shellac some movement

-nothing...most precise center placement, easier all around, IMO
requires a little dab of shallac at the rail

-string braid...has its adherents, and is S&S's current opinion (for the
next 5 minutes at least). Personally I don't get it, and I have not
heard arguments for this...would like to hear some perspectives on this.

-ditch the bloody frames completely, and go with new WNG stacks...my
personal choice, at this point.


Original Message------

Using felt seems counter productive. Try fine emory cloth and double-sided tape (3M makes 1/2" strips for window shrink plastic. 

------------------------------
Regards,

Jon Page

I like Jon's method although I use 400 grit paper with double sided tape.  Same idea.  The grit keeps things from wandering.

Re the flange spacing tool, not sure whose I have but it generally works in all sections except the lower capo section where things are often too tight.  If you use the new S&S improved parts (which I don't) they've apparently made them less wide so that you can space them more easily.  Fred's comment about uniform spacing on installation, of course, goes without saying.  

------------------------------
David Love RPT
www.davidlovepianos.com
davidlovepianos@comcast.net
415 407 8320
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 09-21-2015 09:13
From: Jon Page
Subject: Flange Spacing Tool

Using felt seems counter productive. Try fine emory cloth and double-sided tape (3M makes 1/2" strips for window shrink plastic. 

------------------------------
Regards,

Jon Page

Spray adhesive applied to the back side of the sandpaper also works.

Original Message------

I like Jon's method although I use 400 grit paper with double sided tape.  Same idea.  The grit keeps things from wandering.

Re the flange spacing tool, not sure whose I have but it generally works in all sections except the lower capo section where things are often too tight.  If you use the new S&S improved parts (which I don't) they've apparently made them less wide so that you can space them more easily.  Fred's comment about uniform spacing on installation, of course, goes without saying.  

------------------------------
David Love RPT
www.davidlovepianos.com
davidlovepianos@comcast.net
415 407 8320
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-21-2015 09:13
From: Jon Page
Subject: Flange Spacing Tool

Using felt seems counter productive. Try fine emory cloth and double-sided tape (3M makes 1/2" strips for window shrink plastic. 

------------------------------
Regards,

Jon Page

In my experience, shifting flanges with the tool is reliable and long lasting (assuming the screws are tight). I follow myself for years (on maybe 20 Steinway grands at the university), and don’t notice any shifting. The fit of the flange to the rail is not perfect, and has enough slop to allow for a couple degrees in either direction, whether or not there is cloth on the rail. That's enough for the refining work.

------------------------------
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm@unm.edu
http://fredsturm.net
http://www.artoftuning.com
"We either make ourselves happy or miserable. The amount of work is the same." - Carlos Casteneda
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 09-21-2015 07:09
From: David Skolnik
Subject: Flange Spacing Tool

And then there's the reality.  Was in shop yesterday and had piano (SS B) and tool in hand.  The only section that had insufficient room for tool was the next to last treble.  Worked fine. Too fine, by which I mean that I'm concerned that this set up (Abel flanges and black, self-adhesive felt on hammerflange rail) will have a tendency to move around.  I'll take a look today, but I suspect that there is not enough of a tight fit of the flange corners to the rail to make cross papering effective.  

But using tool sure was easy.

------------------------------
David Skolnik
Hastings-on-Hudson NY
914-231-7565
------------------------------

Hi, David!

My favorite "tool" is a strip of thin action cloth laid across the jacks and rep levers. This lets me bring the hammers to the strings without let off by pressing groups of keys, thus getting a clear look at string contact. If most tri-chord contacts are good, I'll shim the action with cards on the bass end to bring most hammers to just barely touch the left unison. This makes it clear what to do to bring the odd fellows into allignment.

The various techniques for moving the flange have been discussed, and they are all good when you master them. When you have a technique for establishing clear hammer locations, such as described above, the rest of the job is a lot easier.

By the way, if the capo strings are irregularly spaced, that may be the first part of the job. And if hammers are traveling wild, that needs to be fixed, too.

------------------------------
Ed Sutton
ed440@me.com
704-536-7926
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 09-18-2015 21:58
From: David Pritchard
Subject: Flange Spacing Tool

Hello all,

What tool do you recommend for spacing grand hammers while the action is in place?  I will be mostly working on Steinway and Boston grand pianos.

------------------------------
David Pritchard
Lynchburg VA
434-841-7735
------------------------------