Hi, Jeannie,
Basically, I'm with both Eds on this.
In terms of tightening one, I'm particularly with EdM. If one has the
luxury of being able to work on the resonator when the tension is off,
that's great! And, EdM's account describes what has worked well for me,
as well.
If one does not have that luxury, then one's choices are more limited.
With both Eds, I've seen far too many rims and boards destroyed by folks
who somehow think that the resonator was installed to "adjust"
bearing/crown/&c. It isn't; as described, it's there to help keep
things in balance.
In terms of the specific instance you describe, your choices are
obviously much more limited; and there isn't much to be done except to
work to eliminate the buzz (Surprise! The presenting issue!)
So, attempting to describe an approach which might work:
- Yes, this can, within limits, be adjusted while the instrument is
under tension.
- While I suspect that you have already done so, I would check to see
what, besides the resonator, might be loose. (Yes, I know...but, since
you're already under the piano...)
- Without seeing the instrument, while I would check all of the
members, I would start with the one which appears to be causing the
problem. Remembering that the strut is actually a turnbuckle (and,
you'll have to loosen the threaded nuts anyway), check to see if the
nuts are already loose. If not, loosen them a bit; and carefully check
to see if there is any change in the tone/pitch/volume of the buzz.
This might provide guidance as to how much tightening might be
necessary. If there's not change, go ahead and carefully tighten the
turnbuckle while constantly checking for changes in pitch/tone/volume of
the buzz. Any change will serve to help indicate if you're going in the
"right" direction. Once the buzz appears to stop, give a slight
additional tightening to the turnbuckle (remembering all those split
rims/&c)...double check the (hopefully lack of) sound. Then, tighten
the retaining nuts (remembering that you're not cinching down head-bolts
on a Caterpillar 3208 diesel engine). Double-check your work...again...
- Once you're done with the above, you're not really done. Go back
through all the members of the tension resonator again. Check for any
kind of new/different noise; and repeat the above as may be necessary.
While it isn't always necessary to change anything else; it is necessary
to carefully check the work.
Two additional important points:
- Knowing that you know this already, it's important to keep in mind
that, as with "adjusting" the "bell" on an S&S, screwing around with the
tension resonator on an M&H (or Mason & Risch, if you happen to see any
of those) is fraught with the potential for disaster...if not today,
then, perhaps at some point in the future; and,
- Unlike many aspects of piano work, this really isn't rocket science
insofar as it can realistically be reductively analyzed to death.
Rather, this kind of thing is something with which one works (sometimes
for years) before becoming proficient at it in any real sense. That is,
this is one place in which it helps to have done a fair amount of belly
work (or, for that matter, have done more than a few thousand tunings).
Or, put another way, while it makes (some) sense to be terminally OCD
about certain aspects of this work, for certain (perhaps many) others,
one has to learn when to let go of relying on mere numbers; and deal
with the art they attempt to represent. From that standpoint, we're not
talking about an "either/or" situation. What we are talking about is
(yet another) "both/and".
Hope that this is somewhat helpful. If not, use the delete button.
Kind regards.
Horace
On 2/12/2019 8:11 AM, Jeannie Grassi via Piano Technicians Guild wrote:
> Please do not forward this message due to Auto Login.
>
> To both Eds:
> Since the tension resonator was mentioned this brings up questions that I have about tightening one. I have been dealing with a vibration in a 25-year old Mason & Hamlin in which the resonator seems to be vibrating sympathetically with notes in the midrange. If I hold it while the note is played the noise stops. It is a very subtle mouse but there, nonetheless.
>
> My questions have to do with how careful I need to be about tightening the vibrating member. Can this be done with the piano under full tension? Should I go around to all three and add a little tension all the way around or just to the one that seems to be generating the noise? ??How do I know if I've gone too far? I don't want to wait until the rim cracks to get my answer to that question!
>
> Thanks for any advice,
> ~ jeannie
>
> ------------------------------
> Jeannie Grassi, RPT
> Bainbridge Island, WA
> 206-842-3721
> ------------------------------
> -------------------------------------------
> Original Message:
> Sent: 02-11-2019 22:44
> From: Edward McMorrow
> Subject: The soundboard pushing the rim out question
>
> I think the Tension Resonator is a bracing system named very cleverly.
>
> Traditionaly, M&H has used an inner/outer rim construction. The fully strung and at tension inner rim belly is glued to the outer rim. So one desires that the dimension of the inner rim stay constant with fluctuating humidity.
>
> Voila, restrain wood movement by holding everything from expanding with the centripetal forces collected by an unmovable element.
>
> I am afraid Mr. Hairs' video will encourage more people to add tension to the spider. It is very easy to crack the rim and belly rail apart from doing this. I have seen several M&H's where this has happened.
>
> My practice when installing a new soundboard is to make sure the spider is properly tight, by ear and fist bump, and don't change it again; then glue the new board in.
>
> ------------------------------
> Edward McMorrow
> Edmonds WA
> 425-299-3431
> ------------------------------
>
> Original Message:
> Sent: 02-11-2019 20:36
> From: Ed Sutton
> Subject: The soundboard pushing the rim out question
>
> In the video, Craig cut some bars such that they were arched into a tight fit in the notches in the rim.
> A soundboard, compression or rib crowned, is arched by its internal structure before it is glued into the piano.
> Think more like a dinner plate which is inverted and glued by its rim.
> This image leads me to think that the purpose of the M & H spider is to stiffen the rim before the soundboard is glued in, not to somehow increase the crown or "tune" the soundboard.
> Having seen one or two M & H's with "shredded" soundboards, I wonder if this was caused by someone tightening the turnbuckles.
>
> ------------------------------
> Ed Sutton
>
ed440@me.com <
ed440@me.com>
> (980) 254-7413
>
> Original Message:
> Sent: 02-11-2019 13:08
> From: Chris Chernobieff
> Subject: The soundboard pushing the rim out question
>
> JIM Said,
> " Nossaman was talking about the panel changes as a result of down bearing, given a stable perimeter dimension."
>
> But that doesn't even attempt to answer the question if acting forces expand the rim or not.
>
>
> Here's a Ron Quote in answer to the question
>
>
>
> "From Buttressed Arch question for Ron
> Question 11
>
>
>> IS there a force
>
>
>> pushing the rim out,
>
>
> ??Ron,
>
>
> No, there is not. There is some rotational force on the belly
>
>
> rail from string downbearing because it's cantilevered, but it
>
>
> has no affect on crown".
>
> Doesn't the?? Craig Hair video show that a force does push out on the rim. If the rim is being changed and the ribs go up and down, doesn't that show a connection between the two?
> -chris
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
> Troubles are Bubbles, and they just float away.
> chernobieffpiano.com
>
grandpianoman@protonmail.com <
grandpianoman@protonmail.com>
> Knoxville, TN
> 865-986-7720
>
> Original Message:
> Sent: 02-11-2019 00:21
> From: Chris Chernobieff
> Subject: The soundboard pushing the rim out question
>
> Jim Said,
> "One thing I do know, from observing my boards as I test load and measure them with indicators, is that the effect the perimeter glue joint has on overall and local stiffness of the structure is huge. Its huge, and I missed it for a long time. Missed it, because I visually simplified the system to conform to the limitations of what I could??imagine was happening."
>
> A good little demo of this is to use a paint stick. Hold one end in your hand and flick it. You'll get nothing. Clamp one end in a vice, flick it, and it behaves totally different.
> -chris
>
> ------------------------------
> Troubles are Bubbles, and they just float away.
> chernobieffpiano.com
>
grandpianoman@protonmail.com <
grandpianoman@protonmail.com>
> Knoxville, TN
> 865-986-7720
>
> Original Message:
> Sent: 02-10-2019 18:16
> From: Jim Ialeggio
> Subject: The soundboard pushing the rim out question
>
> ahh..thx.
>
> Re the expansion question, if it did expand, as shown in Craig Hair's demonstration, expansion would not be uniform, because of the shapes involved. One part would expand, but that expansion would reduce other areas in a push-me-pull-you scenario. Its too easy in all of this visualizing of what might be happening, to reduce a serpentine, looped structure from three interactive dimensions to a simple linear two dimensional 1+1 model. Why...because its much simple and easier to think linearly and in two dimensions. But I think there are, unfortunately, way more variables involved, which of course makes it harder to think about.
>
> One thing I do know, from observing my boards as I test load and measure them with indicators, is that the effect the perimeter glue joint has on overall and local stiffness of the structure is huge. Its huge, and I missed it for a long time. Missed it, because I visually simplified the system to conform to the limitations of what I could??imagine was happening.
>
> ------------------------------
> Jim Ialeggio
> grandpianosolutions.com
> Shirley, MA
> 978 425-9026
>
> Original Message:
> Sent: 02-10-2019 16:43
> From: Phil Bondi
> Subject: The soundboard pushing the rim out question
>
> Ron N.
>
>
>
> Original Message------
>
> what's RN?
>
> ------------------------------
> Jim Ialeggio
> grandpianosolutions.com
> Shirley, MA
> 978 425-9026
> ------------------------------
>
>
> Reply to Sender :
https://my.ptg.org/eGroups/PostReply/?GroupId=43&SenderKey=98a0c5cf-d1b9-4f42-986d-54cc639ac84a&MID=698955&MDATE=756%253e457467&UserKey=3feecf45-4a69-4cff-bbb2-fd6c7eaf0569&sKey=KeyRemoved>
> Reply to Discussion :
https://my.ptg.org/eGroups/PostReply/?GroupId=43&MID=698955&MDATE=756%253e457467&UserKey=3feecf45-4a69-4cff-bbb2-fd6c7eaf0569&sKey=KeyRemoved>
>
>
> You are subscribed to "Pianotech" as
hgreeley@sonic.net. To change your subscriptions, go to
http://my.ptg.org/preferences?section=Subscriptions&MDATE=756%253e457467&UserKey=3feecf45-4a69-4cff-bbb2-fd6c7eaf0569&sKey=KeyRemoved. To unsubscribe from this community discussion, go to
http://my.ptg.org/HigherLogic/eGroups/Unsubscribe.aspx?UserKey=3feecf45-4a69-4cff-bbb2-fd6c7eaf0569&sKey=KeyRemoved&GroupKey=2bb4ebe8-4dba-4640-ae67-111903beaddf.>
Original Message------
To both Eds:
Since the tension resonator was mentioned this brings up questions that I have about tightening one. I have been dealing with a vibration in a 25-year old Mason & Hamlin in which the resonator seems to be vibrating sympathetically with notes in the midrange. If I hold it while the note is played the noise stops. It is a very subtle mouse but there, nonetheless.
My questions have to do with how careful I need to be about tightening the vibrating member. Can this be done with the piano under full tension? Should I go around to all three and add a little tension all the way around or just to the one that seems to be generating the noise? How do I know if I've gone too far? I don't want to wait until the rim cracks to get my answer to that question!
Thanks for any advice,
~ jeannie
------------------------------
Jeannie Grassi, RPT
Bainbridge Island, WA
206-842-3721
------------------------------