It's funny this discussion should come up now, as I just recently purchased one of these inexpensive DIY models. 3D printers are generally misunderstood as being as easy to use as an inkjet printer. Like ETDs, they are a tool that can only produce good results in the hands of a skilled user. I'm still learning to use mine.
Part of the skill is learning what the limitations of the technology are. "Banding" is the roughness that is a result of the printing process which lays down 0.2 mm layers of plastic at a time (see attached photo to see what I mean). All 3D printers produce banding. There is additional roughness due to the DIY nature of my machine. If you need something to be accurate down to the 0.001 inch, as is sometimes the case in our line of work, don't look to 3D printing. I doubt that is even possible with expensive machines. My printer, so far, has an accuracy of within 0.2 mm, which results in a pretty rough print, but hope to get that number down as I learn to calibrate my machine better.
The materials that your average joe (like myself) can print in are PLA (Poly Lactic Acid) and ABS (Acrylonytrile butadiene styrene), but there exist technologies to print in other materials. If you don't want to get your own 3D printer, but want to protype a part or tool in 3D modeling software, there exist 3D printer shops where you can do this (some libraries are offering this too). You do have to learn how to model objects in 3D software though, and the shops (which offer printing in everything from plastic to ceramic to steel) are pretty expensive.
There are online forums like Thingiverse.com where you can download 3D designs by others, but you won't find much in the way of professional grade piano parts.
As for 3D scanners, the technology just isn't there yet for part replication (or so I've read). A 3D scanner, from what I've read, gets you a rough, "in the ballpark," version of your object. You then have to go in and (with a lot of 3D modeling skill) clean the part up.
Hope this was helpful. Good luck to anyone trying it out! :)
Peace,
Luke
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Luke Taylor
Los Angeles CA
310-386-7014
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Original Message:
Sent: 05-26-2014 08:49
From: Richard Cromwell
Subject: 3-D Printer Action Parts
I've had some success working with 3d printed prototype parts, like action brackets, for unusual actions that were being modified or redesigned. But action parts are a different story.
As Mr. Mannino mentioned, desktop 3d printer resolution and material is an issue. Another issue would be that the cost of professional class design software capable of generating the solid model CAD files for dimensionally complex part assemblies can be extremely expensive. To say the learning curve for that type of software is steep, is a little bit of an understatement. If you could use, say a PLM software suite like CATIA (at a cost of $50,000+) or even Solidworks ($5k), well enough to design 3d printable action parts that would work, you should probably seriously consider taking up CAD design and Computer Aided Engineering as a profession and relegating tuning pianos to a hobby.
Then there is the issue of orientation of parts to be printed and the creation of support structures within the solid models which involves using other software, which also can get pretty complicated.
Another thing if you get through all of that and actually come up with a workable design, the cost of printing a part in materials and production time, not including R&D - which is really where you are spending your money, or assembly, and shipping, it would make it so that 1 whippen would cost at least about $50.
Basically, the concept of 3d printed action parts is a little bit more complicated than one might initially think.
Enjoy the holiday folks. ☺
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Richard Cromwell
Custom Keyboard Design & Fabrication Department Manager
Pianotek Supply Co.
Clawson, MI
1-800-347-3854
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