Zeno -
Allowing for how much I don't know, I'd stay FAR away from routers for this application. As David L pointed out, with a Forstner bit, you don't
have to clamp the work, just have a way of capturing it. With a router, you can almost guarantee that some hammers (or fingers) will have stories to tell.
If, in spite of the acknowledged limited weight benefits, you want to emulate the Steinway profile, you could either do it as a two step process (forstner, then drum sander) or with drum sander (Jon P's oscillating spindle sander) alone. The actual shape IS in two stages: the actual radiused cove (3/4" diameter), to the exact center line of molding, and then the (flat) removal of material, to 1/8" from center line. If you're hanging using a jig that uses the inside/bottom of tail, as does Spurlocks's, it's very important that whatever you do leaves that measurement consistent.
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David Skolnik
Hastings-on-Hudson NY
914-231-7565
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Original Message:
Sent: 06-07-2015 10:24
From: Zeno Wood
Subject: Coving hammer tails
Thanks everyone for your responses. I've been looking at a typical Steinway hammer and trying to figure out how you might make that sort of cove - perhaps a little router with a jig set up to mill out that part that isn't part of a circle's arc. Beyond my ability or willingness to get into it that deep. It looks pretty nice though, I find it more attractive than the cove produced by a forstner bit.
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Zeno Wood
Brooklyn, NY
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Original Message:
Sent: 06-06-2015 10:52
From: David Love
Subject: Coving hammer tails
You don't have to clamp the hammers if you build a simple platform like this (see attached). You can hold the hammer in place easily with your fingers as the tail butts up against the stops and keeps it from drifting. This is a 7/8" Forstner bit. The final tailed and tapered hammer is also pictured.
I agree that coving accomplishes little in terms of weight reduction. However, I find that it does save me having to check to be sure that I'm tailing the correct side of the hammer and I do prefer the look. It also offers a convenient place to number the hammers.
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David Love RPT
www.davidlovepianos.com
davidlovepianos@comcast.net
415 407 8320
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Original Message:
Sent: 06-06-2015 06:46
From: Jon Page
Subject: Coving hammer tails
The quickest method is with a Forstner bit. The hammer needs to be clamped to the surface. I stopped when I realized that it was only removing .3 grams or less from the hammer and was not worth the effort. No bang for the buck. The time it takes to mill out the area produces only a 1.5 to 2 grams weight reduction at the front of the key. Negligible return for the work expended.
When installing new hammers, I order them uncoved. If I need to remove a few tenths of a gram, I can remove wood from the front of the tail on an oscillating spindle sander and not alter the profile of the hammer above the shank. It's a good bank for wood extraction. There is no tonal benefit to the cove. Many times, the pre-coved molding did not allow for the tail arc I wanted to establish.
The oscillating spindle sander comes in handy for reshaping/resurfacing hammers. I've dressed knuckles and thinned shanks with it too.
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Regards,
Jon Page