Oh I mean... you don't want to lower it any further than is actually correct. If the rail is low enough to start interfering with the actual keystroke then that will mess up the action feel. You need a little bit of clearance.
Original Message:
Sent: 2/21/2026 4:19:00 PM
From: David Trasoff
Subject: RE: 1970 Baldwin L, owner complains of a "heavy touch"
There is a “bounce” off the end of the key, although the upstop rail is technically “correct” with the movement of the sharps. I will try to get away with lowering it a bit anyway.
Original Message:
Sent: 2/21/2026 3:35:00 PM
From: Nathan Monteleone
Subject: RE: 1970 Baldwin L, owner complains of a "heavy touch"
Oh yeah, that's right and this is probably Luke that. But the felt does compress and even the nail hole might elongate a bit, so it's worth checking.
Original Message:
Sent: 2/21/2026 3:22:00 PM
From: David Trasoff
Subject: RE: 1970 Baldwin L, owner complains of a "heavy touch"
Baldwin frequently nails the upstop rail down with brads! I’ve seen that several times.
Original Message:
Sent: 2/21/2026 2:46:00 PM
From: Nathan Monteleone
Subject: RE: 1970 Baldwin L, owner complains of a "heavy touch"
Make sure drop isn't set too low. If the rep lever is contacting the drop screw too early it makes the action play like a truck. Make sure you have adequate aftertouch.
Check the damper upstop rail. It's almost always too high, and this means you feel a kick in your finger from when the damper jumps way up then falls back down. Generally you need to do something under the piano so the damper pedal doesn't shove the rail right back out of position. S&S uses a block of hammer felt with shims. Some pianos have a capstan. I forget what Baldwin does.
Excessive spring strength can also make the action feel a bit "kicky". So check that too.
Original Message:
Sent: 2/21/2026 2:38:00 PM
From: David Trasoff
Subject: 1970 Baldwin L, owner complains of a "heavy touch"
I will be doing an action service on a 1970 Baldwin L, very good overall condition, which had the whippens, shanks and flanges, and hammers replaced 15 years ago with "all Renner parts." The hammers appear to be Renner Blue Points. The owner complains that the piano has become very tiring to play after after 30-45 minutes (at least partly her health issues). Action geometry and key reweighting are not going to be addressed, at least at this time. I need to do what can be done to make playing feel "lighter" within the parameters of the current setup. Basic regulation is well within proper limits. I will check all of the usual friction points, clean and lubricate balance rail pins (the keys already move freely), check hammer flange pinning and correct where needed, probably use CLP or similar on all the action centers (there is no evidence of verdigris). What else? I definitely have room to move the hammer line a couple of mm closer to the strings. Damper lift off the key end is quite low, around 2mm. I could raise damper lift to 1/2 key travel, 5mm, that should make a noticeable difference. The hammers are quite worn, so they will get a pretty heavy filing; that should help. Any other suggestions?
Thanks!!
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David Trasoff
Whatcom Piano Service
(360) 389-2158
david@whatcompianoservice.com
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