Pianotech

 I need to lubricate the hammer flanges on almost all of the hammer flanges of an acrosonic Baldwin. The problem is the spacing between each flange where they practically touch their neighbors. Removing the action seems like the best way to proceed but I noticed as I sat on the floor with the kick panel off that the whippens seem to be mounted on a larger piece of wood than normal. This piece of wood attaches to some mounting brackets which should free up the action, The sticker wires all go into a rail with felt bushings- there are no key end forks, rubber or wood grommets on a sticker wire. The capstans on the keys sit under a wooden piece with buckskin/leather making adjustment easier.  

What is the best way to lubricate this action ? seems to me outside of the piano. I have some pictures I can post later today...

Remove the screws for the sticker guide rail so it drops down to the stickers. You can modify some vertical damper heads to secure the sticker wires so they don't dr out when you're removing the action. Bungy cords &/or twice can help secure the stickers. It's best to remove the keys or at least lay some newspaper to prevent stickers from binding on the key ends. Remove the damper heads just above the bass-tenor break.

An alcohol-water solution can be used to soak the bushings. They will need to dry at least overnight, probably best to have it in your shop, maybe a hairdryer to finish the drying process.

Before you do this remove several of the "worst" action assemblies. I.e., the hammer flange, wippen flange, and Jack flange should all be checked for gram resistance. The bushing felt may have a red waxy substance that is causing friction. Repinning may be advisable.

If there is no waxy grunge the alcohol-water, followed by ProTek CPL may be all you need. Tighten all flange screws.

Reinstall - patiently and very carefully .

Done!

If the flanges have no verdigris and are just tight I highly recommend soaking them in VS ProFelt.  Leave to dry overnight.  It's my go to treatment for tight centers 

Using an oiler bottle with a long tube you can get to the hammer flanges and most other centers while the action is still in the piano. Schaff has them.

David - so I guess you just suspend or immerse the action with hammers mounted if that possible ? 

Steve- I will look through my oiler collection but there is barely any space between flanges

Isnt VS ProFelt a PianoTek product ? Will Schaff stock it ?

James, there won't be any more space if you take the action out. It will soak in. Or aim on the side between the flange and the bird's eye. If you do take the action out, you can more easily treat the whippen flanges also. The resistance in the system is additive so it doesn't hurt to treat all the action centers. (does it?) 

Are the bridle strap wires missing the standard pig's tail squiggle? Just another annoyance on some of the cheaper Baldwin models …

For most spinets (these Acrosonic included) I'll just lean the action forward in the piano and go in from the top with a 1oz, 3" needle hypo oiler. I've found that 18 gauge needles give a nice balance of precision and flow. I try to target the space between the flange itself and the hammer butt.

If I need to take the action out, I'll unscrew the sticker rail, take a few of my tuning mutes off their wire and put them on the sticker pins at the section breaks. I can usually get the out just as easily as a console or studio upright. Just don't let the sticker rail come off the stickers -- it's no fun!!

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Mathias Walters
North Charleston SC
(843) 619-7593
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