Pianotech

Today for the second time in my life I encountered a 243 with tight tight center pins that do not respond to Protek CLP. Is there some verdegris-like thing that happens in Baldwins from the late 60s?

Today for the second time in my life I encountered a 243 with tight tight center pins that do not respond to Protek CLP. Is there some verdegris-like thing that happens in Baldwins from the late 60s?

Today for the second time in my life I encountered a 243 with tight tight center pins that do not respond to Protek CLP. Is there some verdegris-like thing that happens in Baldwins from the late 60s?

Indeed Wim, it's hammers, wippens, and jacks too!

I treated some samples with CLP, alcohol and water, and...Fantastik. We will see how they are on Wednesday.

So Patrick, I take it this Baldwin case is a little different from Steinway's verdigris in that if you repin with verdigris you can end up with wobbly parts with theoretically correct friction. Not so in this case?

Today for the second time in my life I encountered a 243 with tight tight center pins that do not respond to Protek CLP. Is there some verdegris-like thing that happens in Baldwins from the late 60s?

Indeed Wim, it's hammers, wippens, and jacks too!

I treated some samples with CLP, alcohol and water, and...Fantastik. We will see how they are on Wednesday.

So Patrick, I take it this Baldwin case is a little different from Steinway's verdigris in that if you repin with verdigris you can end up with wobbly parts with theoretically correct friction. Not so in this case?

Today for the second time in my life I encountered a 243 with tight tight center pins that do not respond to Protek CLP. Is there some verdegris-like thing that happens in Baldwins from the late 60s?

The waxy substance isn't S&S verdigris. Having a bag of Tokiwa flanges on hand is advisable if a bushing pops out or a flange cracks in the tear down/repinning process. If the original flanges have too much free play at the birdseye I sometimes use a sequin ( buy a bag at Michaels or your favorite fabric or hobby shop) as a spacer. Another reason to have extra flanges on hand. Good luck!

Indeed Wim, it's hammers, wippens, and jacks too!

I treated some samples with CLP, alcohol and water, and...Fantastik. We will see how they are on Wednesday.

So Patrick, I take it this Baldwin case is a little different from Steinway's verdigris in that if you repin with verdigris you can end up with wobbly parts with theoretically correct friction. Not so in this case?

Today for the second time in my life I encountered a 243 with tight tight center pins that do not respond to Protek CLP. Is there some verdegris-like thing that happens in Baldwins from the late 60s?

Ohhh thank you,, I was wondering about a thin plastic or teflon washer as a spacer. Sequins,,,,

On the other hand David Stanwood said VS profelt was his go to for tight bushings. I just tried some and it was better and quicker than the alcohol sizing. 

Let us know about the fantastic. 

The waxy substance isn't S&S verdigris. Having a bag of Tokiwa flanges on hand is advisable if a bushing pops out or a flange cracks in the tear down/repinning process. If the original flanges have too much free play at the birdseye I sometimes use a sequin ( buy a bag at Michaels or your favorite fabric or hobby shop) as a spacer. Another reason to have extra flanges on hand. Good luck!

Indeed Wim, it's hammers, wippens, and jacks too!

I treated some samples with CLP, alcohol and water, and...Fantastik. We will see how they are on Wednesday.

So Patrick, I take it this Baldwin case is a little different from Steinway's verdigris in that if you repin with verdigris you can end up with wobbly parts with theoretically correct friction. Not so in this case?

Today for the second time in my life I encountered a 243 with tight tight center pins that do not respond to Protek CLP. Is there some verdegris-like thing that happens in Baldwins from the late 60s?

Results: today my 3 sample hammers treated with Alcohol/water (vodka actually), vodka on top of Protek CLP, and Fantastik, ALL responded well.

12 to 14 swings on all 3!

I don't think I'll be repinning this one.

Ohhh thank you,, I was wondering about a thin plastic or teflon washer as a spacer. Sequins,,,,

On the other hand David Stanwood said VS profelt was his go to for tight bushings. I just tried some and it was better and quicker than the alcohol sizing. 

Let us know about the fantastic. 

The waxy substance isn't S&S verdigris. Having a bag of Tokiwa flanges on hand is advisable if a bushing pops out or a flange cracks in the tear down/repinning process. If the original flanges have too much free play at the birdseye I sometimes use a sequin ( buy a bag at Michaels or your favorite fabric or hobby shop) as a spacer. Another reason to have extra flanges on hand. Good luck!

Indeed Wim, it's hammers, wippens, and jacks too!

I treated some samples with CLP, alcohol and water, and...Fantastik. We will see how they are on Wednesday.

So Patrick, I take it this Baldwin case is a little different from Steinway's verdigris in that if you repin with verdigris you can end up with wobbly parts with theoretically correct friction. Not so in this case?

Today for the second time in my life I encountered a 243 with tight tight center pins that do not respond to Protek CLP. Is there some verdegris-like thing that happens in Baldwins from the late 60s?

Results: today my 3 sample hammers treated with Alcohol/water (vodka actually), vodka on top of Protek CLP, and Fantastik, ALL responded well.

12 to 14 swings on all 3!

I don't think I'll be repinning this one.

Ohhh thank you,, I was wondering about a thin plastic or teflon washer as a spacer. Sequins,,,,

On the other hand David Stanwood said VS profelt was his go to for tight bushings. I just tried some and it was better and quicker than the alcohol sizing. 

Let us know about the fantastic. 

The waxy substance isn't S&S verdigris. Having a bag of Tokiwa flanges on hand is advisable if a bushing pops out or a flange cracks in the tear down/repinning process. If the original flanges have too much free play at the birdseye I sometimes use a sequin ( buy a bag at Michaels or your favorite fabric or hobby shop) as a spacer. Another reason to have extra flanges on hand. Good luck!

Indeed Wim, it's hammers, wippens, and jacks too!

I treated some samples with CLP, alcohol and water, and...Fantastik. We will see how they are on Wednesday.

So Patrick, I take it this Baldwin case is a little different from Steinway's verdigris in that if you repin with verdigris you can end up with wobbly parts with theoretically correct friction. Not so in this case?

Today for the second time in my life I encountered a 243 with tight tight center pins that do not respond to Protek CLP. Is there some verdegris-like thing that happens in Baldwins from the late 60s?

Results: today my 3 sample hammers treated with Alcohol/water (vodka actually), vodka on top of Protek CLP, and Fantastik, ALL responded well.

12 to 14 swings on all 3!

I don't think I'll be repinning this one.

Ohhh thank you,, I was wondering about a thin plastic or teflon washer as a spacer. Sequins,,,,

On the other hand David Stanwood said VS profelt was his go to for tight bushings. I just tried some and it was better and quicker than the alcohol sizing. 

Let us know about the fantastic. 

The waxy substance isn't S&S verdigris. Having a bag of Tokiwa flanges on hand is advisable if a bushing pops out or a flange cracks in the tear down/repinning process. If the original flanges have too much free play at the birdseye I sometimes use a sequin ( buy a bag at Michaels or your favorite fabric or hobby shop) as a spacer. Another reason to have extra flanges on hand. Good luck!

Indeed Wim, it's hammers, wippens, and jacks too!

I treated some samples with CLP, alcohol and water, and...Fantastik. We will see how they are on Wednesday.

So Patrick, I take it this Baldwin case is a little different from Steinway's verdigris in that if you repin with verdigris you can end up with wobbly parts with theoretically correct friction. Not so in this case?

Today for the second time in my life I encountered a 243 with tight tight center pins that do not respond to Protek CLP. Is there some verdegris-like thing that happens in Baldwins from the late 60s?

Results: today my 3 sample hammers treated with Alcohol/water (vodka actually), vodka on top of Protek CLP, and Fantastik, ALL responded well.

12 to 14 swings on all 3!

I don't think I'll be repinning this one.

Ohhh thank you,, I was wondering about a thin plastic or teflon washer as a spacer. Sequins,,,,

On the other hand David Stanwood said VS profelt was his go to for tight bushings. I just tried some and it was better and quicker than the alcohol sizing. 

Let us know about the fantastic. 

The waxy substance isn't S&S verdigris. Having a bag of Tokiwa flanges on hand is advisable if a bushing pops out or a flange cracks in the tear down/repinning process. If the original flanges have too much free play at the birdseye I sometimes use a sequin ( buy a bag at Michaels or your favorite fabric or hobby shop) as a spacer. Another reason to have extra flanges on hand. Good luck!

Indeed Wim, it's hammers, wippens, and jacks too!

I treated some samples with CLP, alcohol and water, and...Fantastik. We will see how they are on Wednesday.

So Patrick, I take it this Baldwin case is a little different from Steinway's verdigris in that if you repin with verdigris you can end up with wobbly parts with theoretically correct friction. Not so in this case?

Today for the second time in my life I encountered a 243 with tight tight center pins that do not respond to Protek CLP. Is there some verdegris-like thing that happens in Baldwins from the late 60s?

There were many manufacturers of that era--Wurlitzer's another for instance--who had problems with sticky action centers because the felt in the bushings was not properly sized (pre-shrunk).   This can be treated effectively with alcohol/water, but what I don't see mentioned is the use of heat.  The alcohol/water mix is not going to do much if you just squirt on the bushings and let it air-dry.  

After applying the solution,  place the action on your bench and drape it with a couple moving blankets.   Direct the air from a hair-dryer into the enclosure and heat it up till it's about 140 degrees F.   Keep it there for about a quarter hour.   Preferably,  while it's still hot, work the parts up and down.

The next day after it's cooled off go back and test the centers again.  If any are still balky do it again with naphtha/ silicone oil. 

The higher the water content, the more shrinkage.   You can overdo it with water/alcohol.  10 percent is usually sufficient.  The naphtha/ silicone will do no harm.

Test all your centers before you begin.  Hammers, jacks and wippens will be pinned to different specs, so they will be similar within their type, but all the hammers might be sticking while all the jacks may be free.   Mark the worst offenders with chalk before treatment--if you've cured those you've probably fixed the rest.

Results: today my 3 sample hammers treated with Alcohol/water (vodka actually), vodka on top of Protek CLP, and Fantastik, ALL responded well.

12 to 14 swings on all 3!

I don't think I'll be repinning this one.

Ohhh thank you,, I was wondering about a thin plastic or teflon washer as a spacer. Sequins,,,,

On the other hand David Stanwood said VS profelt was his go to for tight bushings. I just tried some and it was better and quicker than the alcohol sizing. 

Let us know about the fantastic. 

The waxy substance isn't S&S verdigris. Having a bag of Tokiwa flanges on hand is advisable if a bushing pops out or a flange cracks in the tear down/repinning process. If the original flanges have too much free play at the birdseye I sometimes use a sequin ( buy a bag at Michaels or your favorite fabric or hobby shop) as a spacer. Another reason to have extra flanges on hand. Good luck!

Indeed Wim, it's hammers, wippens, and jacks too!

I treated some samples with CLP, alcohol and water, and...Fantastik. We will see how they are on Wednesday.

So Patrick, I take it this Baldwin case is a little different from Steinway's verdigris in that if you repin with verdigris you can end up with wobbly parts with theoretically correct friction. Not so in this case?

Today for the second time in my life I encountered a 243 with tight tight center pins that do not respond to Protek CLP. Is there some verdegris-like thing that happens in Baldwins from the late 60s?

Cecil,

In this case just the alcohol/water did do much. It did too much! I agree with the others that 12 to 14 is too loose. If this was a nice grand owned be a pianist I would propose doing something about it but in this case the customer will be happy with it this way. The results bear out your other comment: "You can overdo it with alcohol and water". Next time I'll use a lot less water!  Probably VS Profelt is the best option, as someone above suggested.

I was expecting the alcohol/water to do nothing and hoping for some chemical sludge fighting miracle from the Fantastik per the recent journal article.

Alan,

I'll plan to revisit in a year and see what's happened.

There were many manufacturers of that era--Wurlitzer's another for instance--who had problems with sticky action centers because the felt in the bushings was not properly sized (pre-shrunk).   This can be treated effectively with alcohol/water, but what I don't see mentioned is the use of heat.  The alcohol/water mix is not going to do much if you just squirt on the bushings and let it air-dry.  

After applying the solution,  place the action on your bench and drape it with a couple moving blankets.   Direct the air from a hair-dryer into the enclosure and heat it up till it's about 140 degrees F.   Keep it there for about a quarter hour.   Preferably,  while it's still hot, work the parts up and down.

The next day after it's cooled off go back and test the centers again.  If any are still balky do it again with naphtha/ silicone oil. 

The higher the water content, the more shrinkage.   You can overdo it with water/alcohol.  10 percent is usually sufficient.  The naphtha/ silicone will do no harm.

Test all your centers before you begin.  Hammers, jacks and wippens will be pinned to different specs, so they will be similar within their type, but all the hammers might be sticking while all the jacks may be free.   Mark the worst offenders with chalk before treatment--if you've cured those you've probably fixed the rest.

Results: today my 3 sample hammers treated with Alcohol/water (vodka actually), vodka on top of Protek CLP, and Fantastik, ALL responded well.

12 to 14 swings on all 3!

I don't think I'll be repinning this one.

Ohhh thank you,, I was wondering about a thin plastic or teflon washer as a spacer. Sequins,,,,

On the other hand David Stanwood said VS profelt was his go to for tight bushings. I just tried some and it was better and quicker than the alcohol sizing. 

Let us know about the fantastic. 

The waxy substance isn't S&S verdigris. Having a bag of Tokiwa flanges on hand is advisable if a bushing pops out or a flange cracks in the tear down/repinning process. If the original flanges have too much free play at the birdseye I sometimes use a sequin ( buy a bag at Michaels or your favorite fabric or hobby shop) as a spacer. Another reason to have extra flanges on hand. Good luck!

Indeed Wim, it's hammers, wippens, and jacks too!

I treated some samples with CLP, alcohol and water, and...Fantastik. We will see how they are on Wednesday.

So Patrick, I take it this Baldwin case is a little different from Steinway's verdigris in that if you repin with verdigris you can end up with wobbly parts with theoretically correct friction. Not so in this case?

Today for the second time in my life I encountered a 243 with tight tight center pins that do not respond to Protek CLP. Is there some verdegris-like thing that happens in Baldwins from the late 60s?

Cecil,

In this case just the alcohol/water did do much. It did too much! I agree with the others that 12 to 14 is too loose. If this was a nice grand owned be a pianist I would propose doing something about it but in this case the customer will be happy with it this way. The results bear out your other comment: "You can overdo it with alcohol and water". Next time I'll use a lot less water!  Probably VS Profelt is the best option, as someone above suggested.

I was expecting the alcohol/water to do nothing and hoping for some chemical sludge fighting miracle from the Fantastik per the recent journal article.

Alan,

I'll plan to revisit in a year and see what's happened.

There were many manufacturers of that era--Wurlitzer's another for instance--who had problems with sticky action centers because the felt in the bushings was not properly sized (pre-shrunk).   This can be treated effectively with alcohol/water, but what I don't see mentioned is the use of heat.  The alcohol/water mix is not going to do much if you just squirt on the bushings and let it air-dry.  

After applying the solution,  place the action on your bench and drape it with a couple moving blankets.   Direct the air from a hair-dryer into the enclosure and heat it up till it's about 140 degrees F.   Keep it there for about a quarter hour.   Preferably,  while it's still hot, work the parts up and down.

The next day after it's cooled off go back and test the centers again.  If any are still balky do it again with naphtha/ silicone oil. 

The higher the water content, the more shrinkage.   You can overdo it with water/alcohol.  10 percent is usually sufficient.  The naphtha/ silicone will do no harm.

Test all your centers before you begin.  Hammers, jacks and wippens will be pinned to different specs, so they will be similar within their type, but all the hammers might be sticking while all the jacks may be free.   Mark the worst offenders with chalk before treatment--if you've cured those you've probably fixed the rest.

Results: today my 3 sample hammers treated with Alcohol/water (vodka actually), vodka on top of Protek CLP, and Fantastik, ALL responded well.

12 to 14 swings on all 3!

I don't think I'll be repinning this one.

Ohhh thank you,, I was wondering about a thin plastic or teflon washer as a spacer. Sequins,,,,

On the other hand David Stanwood said VS profelt was his go to for tight bushings. I just tried some and it was better and quicker than the alcohol sizing. 

Let us know about the fantastic. 

The waxy substance isn't S&S verdigris. Having a bag of Tokiwa flanges on hand is advisable if a bushing pops out or a flange cracks in the tear down/repinning process. If the original flanges have too much free play at the birdseye I sometimes use a sequin ( buy a bag at Michaels or your favorite fabric or hobby shop) as a spacer. Another reason to have extra flanges on hand. Good luck!

Indeed Wim, it's hammers, wippens, and jacks too!

I treated some samples with CLP, alcohol and water, and...Fantastik. We will see how they are on Wednesday.

So Patrick, I take it this Baldwin case is a little different from Steinway's verdigris in that if you repin with verdigris you can end up with wobbly parts with theoretically correct friction. Not so in this case?

Today for the second time in my life I encountered a 243 with tight tight center pins that do not respond to Protek CLP. Is there some verdegris-like thing that happens in Baldwins from the late 60s?

Has anyone tried straight 190 proof grain alcohol to shrink bushings? That would be 20% water

Cecil,

In this case just the alcohol/water did do much. It did too much! I agree with the others that 12 to 14 is too loose. If this was a nice grand owned be a pianist I would propose doing something about it but in this case the customer will be happy with it this way. The results bear out your other comment: "You can overdo it with alcohol and water". Next time I'll use a lot less water!  Probably VS Profelt is the best option, as someone above suggested.

I was expecting the alcohol/water to do nothing and hoping for some chemical sludge fighting miracle from the Fantastik per the recent journal article.

Alan,

I'll plan to revisit in a year and see what's happened.

There were many manufacturers of that era--Wurlitzer's another for instance--who had problems with sticky action centers because the felt in the bushings was not properly sized (pre-shrunk).   This can be treated effectively with alcohol/water, but what I don't see mentioned is the use of heat.  The alcohol/water mix is not going to do much if you just squirt on the bushings and let it air-dry.  

After applying the solution,  place the action on your bench and drape it with a couple moving blankets.   Direct the air from a hair-dryer into the enclosure and heat it up till it's about 140 degrees F.   Keep it there for about a quarter hour.   Preferably,  while it's still hot, work the parts up and down.

The next day after it's cooled off go back and test the centers again.  If any are still balky do it again with naphtha/ silicone oil. 

The higher the water content, the more shrinkage.   You can overdo it with water/alcohol.  10 percent is usually sufficient.  The naphtha/ silicone will do no harm.

Test all your centers before you begin.  Hammers, jacks and wippens will be pinned to different specs, so they will be similar within their type, but all the hammers might be sticking while all the jacks may be free.   Mark the worst offenders with chalk before treatment--if you've cured those you've probably fixed the rest.

Results: today my 3 sample hammers treated with Alcohol/water (vodka actually), vodka on top of Protek CLP, and Fantastik, ALL responded well.

12 to 14 swings on all 3!

I don't think I'll be repinning this one.

Ohhh thank you,, I was wondering about a thin plastic or teflon washer as a spacer. Sequins,,,,

On the other hand David Stanwood said VS profelt was his go to for tight bushings. I just tried some and it was better and quicker than the alcohol sizing. 

Let us know about the fantastic. 

The waxy substance isn't S&S verdigris. Having a bag of Tokiwa flanges on hand is advisable if a bushing pops out or a flange cracks in the tear down/repinning process. If the original flanges have too much free play at the birdseye I sometimes use a sequin ( buy a bag at Michaels or your favorite fabric or hobby shop) as a spacer. Another reason to have extra flanges on hand. Good luck!

Indeed Wim, it's hammers, wippens, and jacks too!

I treated some samples with CLP, alcohol and water, and...Fantastik. We will see how they are on Wednesday.

So Patrick, I take it this Baldwin case is a little different from Steinway's verdigris in that if you repin with verdigris you can end up with wobbly parts with theoretically correct friction. Not so in this case?

Today for the second time in my life I encountered a 243 with tight tight center pins that do not respond to Protek CLP. Is there some verdegris-like thing that happens in Baldwins from the late 60s?

Someone correct me if I am wrong but I THINK 190 proof is 5% water. ??

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

Has anyone tried straight 190 proof grain alcohol to shrink bushings? That would be 20% water

Cecil,

In this case just the alcohol/water did do much. It did too much! I agree with the others that 12 to 14 is too loose. If this was a nice grand owned be a pianist I would propose doing something about it but in this case the customer will be happy with it this way. The results bear out your other comment: "You can overdo it with alcohol and water". Next time I'll use a lot less water!  Probably VS Profelt is the best option, as someone above suggested.

I was expecting the alcohol/water to do nothing and hoping for some chemical sludge fighting miracle from the Fantastik per the recent journal article.

Alan,

I'll plan to revisit in a year and see what's happened.

There were many manufacturers of that era--Wurlitzer's another for instance--who had problems with sticky action centers because the felt in the bushings was not properly sized (pre-shrunk).   This can be treated effectively with alcohol/water, but what I don't see mentioned is the use of heat.  The alcohol/water mix is not going to do much if you just squirt on the bushings and let it air-dry.  

After applying the solution,  place the action on your bench and drape it with a couple moving blankets.   Direct the air from a hair-dryer into the enclosure and heat it up till it's about 140 degrees F.   Keep it there for about a quarter hour.   Preferably,  while it's still hot, work the parts up and down.

The next day after it's cooled off go back and test the centers again.  If any are still balky do it again with naphtha/ silicone oil. 

The higher the water content, the more shrinkage.   You can overdo it with water/alcohol.  10 percent is usually sufficient.  The naphtha/ silicone will do no harm.

Test all your centers before you begin.  Hammers, jacks and wippens will be pinned to different specs, so they will be similar within their type, but all the hammers might be sticking while all the jacks may be free.   Mark the worst offenders with chalk before treatment--if you've cured those you've probably fixed the rest.

Results: today my 3 sample hammers treated with Alcohol/water (vodka actually), vodka on top of Protek CLP, and Fantastik, ALL responded well.

12 to 14 swings on all 3!

I don't think I'll be repinning this one.

Ohhh thank you,, I was wondering about a thin plastic or teflon washer as a spacer. Sequins,,,,

On the other hand David Stanwood said VS profelt was his go to for tight bushings. I just tried some and it was better and quicker than the alcohol sizing. 

Let us know about the fantastic. 

The waxy substance isn't S&S verdigris. Having a bag of Tokiwa flanges on hand is advisable if a bushing pops out or a flange cracks in the tear down/repinning process. If the original flanges have too much free play at the birdseye I sometimes use a sequin ( buy a bag at Michaels or your favorite fabric or hobby shop) as a spacer. Another reason to have extra flanges on hand. Good luck!

Indeed Wim, it's hammers, wippens, and jacks too!

I treated some samples with CLP, alcohol and water, and...Fantastik. We will see how they are on Wednesday.

So Patrick, I take it this Baldwin case is a little different from Steinway's verdigris in that if you repin with verdigris you can end up with wobbly parts with theoretically correct friction. Not so in this case?

Today for the second time in my life I encountered a 243 with tight tight center pins that do not respond to Protek CLP. Is there some verdegris-like thing that happens in Baldwins from the late 60s?

Someone correct me if I am wrong but I THINK 190 proof is 5% water. ??

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

Has anyone tried straight 190 proof grain alcohol to shrink bushings? That would be 20% water

Cecil,

In this case just the alcohol/water did do much. It did too much! I agree with the others that 12 to 14 is too loose. If this was a nice grand owned be a pianist I would propose doing something about it but in this case the customer will be happy with it this way. The results bear out your other comment: "You can overdo it with alcohol and water". Next time I'll use a lot less water!  Probably VS Profelt is the best option, as someone above suggested.

I was expecting the alcohol/water to do nothing and hoping for some chemical sludge fighting miracle from the Fantastik per the recent journal article.

Alan,

I'll plan to revisit in a year and see what's happened.

There were many manufacturers of that era--Wurlitzer's another for instance--who had problems with sticky action centers because the felt in the bushings was not properly sized (pre-shrunk).   This can be treated effectively with alcohol/water, but what I don't see mentioned is the use of heat.  The alcohol/water mix is not going to do much if you just squirt on the bushings and let it air-dry.  

After applying the solution,  place the action on your bench and drape it with a couple moving blankets.   Direct the air from a hair-dryer into the enclosure and heat it up till it's about 140 degrees F.   Keep it there for about a quarter hour.   Preferably,  while it's still hot, work the parts up and down.

The next day after it's cooled off go back and test the centers again.  If any are still balky do it again with naphtha/ silicone oil. 

The higher the water content, the more shrinkage.   You can overdo it with water/alcohol.  10 percent is usually sufficient.  The naphtha/ silicone will do no harm.

Test all your centers before you begin.  Hammers, jacks and wippens will be pinned to different specs, so they will be similar within their type, but all the hammers might be sticking while all the jacks may be free.   Mark the worst offenders with chalk before treatment--if you've cured those you've probably fixed the rest.

Results: today my 3 sample hammers treated with Alcohol/water (vodka actually), vodka on top of Protek CLP, and Fantastik, ALL responded well.

12 to 14 swings on all 3!

I don't think I'll be repinning this one.

Ohhh thank you,, I was wondering about a thin plastic or teflon washer as a spacer. Sequins,,,,

On the other hand David Stanwood said VS profelt was his go to for tight bushings. I just tried some and it was better and quicker than the alcohol sizing. 

Let us know about the fantastic. 

The waxy substance isn't S&S verdigris. Having a bag of Tokiwa flanges on hand is advisable if a bushing pops out or a flange cracks in the tear down/repinning process. If the original flanges have too much free play at the birdseye I sometimes use a sequin ( buy a bag at Michaels or your favorite fabric or hobby shop) as a spacer. Another reason to have extra flanges on hand. Good luck!

Indeed Wim, it's hammers, wippens, and jacks too!

I treated some samples with CLP, alcohol and water, and...Fantastik. We will see how they are on Wednesday.

So Patrick, I take it this Baldwin case is a little different from Steinway's verdigris in that if you repin with verdigris you can end up with wobbly parts with theoretically correct friction. Not so in this case?

Today for the second time in my life I encountered a 243 with tight tight center pins that do not respond to Protek CLP. Is there some verdegris-like thing that happens in Baldwins from the late 60s?