Pianotech

The best advice so far is Jon's recommendation of water based Crystalac lacquers, applied with a good HVLP gun.  I used those products for many years and they are quite good.  It is a small company, and you will talk to a real, friendly human being at the other end when you (for sure) call for advice on using their products.

I sprayed Nitro lacquer for many years in a garage.  It is nasty, toxic stuff that will stink up your shop.  If your are married and spraying in the basement, you won't be by the time the piano is done.  :-)

I cannot think of a worse starter piano than a satin ebony piano that is pushing 8' in length.  The word masochist comes to mind.  You know why a good pro piano refinisher is so good?  He has already made his 10,000 mistakes and learned from each.  You, on the other hand, don't even know what the mistakes are and why they happened, and they will be front loaded heavily in that first piano.  Doing your first piano is like walking across Siberia, and that big piano will be a very long walk.  Worse still, a satin ebony lacquer is the most difficult to do in that all your mistakes (I repeat all) will be right there on the surface because the finish is opaque, thumbing their noses at you every time you walk by.

Good equipment is a must for a good job, as are good finishing materials .  A good spray gun can run $500 easy, the HVLP systems with a gun 1 or 2 thousand.

I would start with a smaller, much less ambitious piano

The best advice so far is Jon's recommendation of water based Crystalac lacquers, applied with a good HVLP gun.  I used those products for many years and they are quite good.  It is a small company, and you will talk to a real, friendly human being at the other end when you (for sure) call for advice on using their products.

I sprayed Nitro lacquer for many years in a garage.  It is nasty, toxic stuff that will stink up your shop.  If your are married and spraying in the basement, you won't be by the time the piano is done.  :-)

I cannot think of a worse starter piano than a satin ebony piano that is pushing 8' in length.  The word masochist comes to mind.  You know why a good pro piano refinisher is so good?  He has already made his 10,000 mistakes and learned from each.  You, on the other hand, don't even know what the mistakes are and why they happened, and they will be front loaded heavily in that first piano.  Doing your first piano is like walking across Siberia, and that big piano will be a very long walk.  Worse still, a satin ebony lacquer is the most difficult to do in that all your mistakes (I repeat all) will be right there on the surface because the finish is opaque, thumbing their noses at you every time you walk by.

Good equipment is a must for a good job, as are good finishing materials .  A good spray gun can run $500 easy, the HVLP systems with a gun 1 or 2 thousand.

I would start with a smaller, much less ambitious piano

The best advice so far is Jon's recommendation of water based Crystalac lacquers, applied with a good HVLP gun.  I used those products for many years and they are quite good.  It is a small company, and you will talk to a real, friendly human being at the other end when you (for sure) call for advice on using their products.

I sprayed Nitro lacquer for many years in a garage.  It is nasty, toxic stuff that will stink up your shop.  If your are married and spraying in the basement, you won't be by the time the piano is done.  :-)

I cannot think of a worse starter piano than a satin ebony piano that is pushing 8' in length.  The word masochist comes to mind.  You know why a good pro piano refinisher is so good?  He has already made his 10,000 mistakes and learned from each.  You, on the other hand, don't even know what the mistakes are and why they happened, and they will be front loaded heavily in that first piano.  Doing your first piano is like walking across Siberia, and that big piano will be a very long walk.  Worse still, a satin ebony lacquer is the most difficult to do in that all your mistakes (I repeat all) will be right there on the surface because the finish is opaque, thumbing their noses at you every time you walk by.

Good equipment is a must for a good job, as are good finishing materials .  A good spray gun can run $500 easy, the HVLP systems with a gun 1 or 2 thousand.

I would start with a smaller, much less ambitious piano

The best advice so far is Jon's recommendation of water based Crystalac lacquers, applied with a good HVLP gun.  I used those products for many years and they are quite good.  It is a small company, and you will talk to a real, friendly human being at the other end when you (for sure) call for advice on using their products.

I sprayed Nitro lacquer for many years in a garage.  It is nasty, toxic stuff that will stink up your shop.  If your are married and spraying in the basement, you won't be by the time the piano is done.  :-)

I cannot think of a worse starter piano than a satin ebony piano that is pushing 8' in length.  The word masochist comes to mind.  You know why a good pro piano refinisher is so good?  He has already made his 10,000 mistakes and learned from each.  You, on the other hand, don't even know what the mistakes are and why they happened, and they will be front loaded heavily in that first piano.  Doing your first piano is like walking across Siberia, and that big piano will be a very long walk.  Worse still, a satin ebony lacquer is the most difficult to do in that all your mistakes (I repeat all) will be right there on the surface because the finish is opaque, thumbing their noses at you every time you walk by.

Good equipment is a must for a good job, as are good finishing materials .  A good spray gun can run $500 easy, the HVLP systems with a gun 1 or 2 thousand.

I would start with a smaller, much less ambitious piano

The best advice so far is Jon's recommendation of water based Crystalac lacquers, applied with a good HVLP gun.  I used those products for many years and they are quite good.  It is a small company, and you will talk to a real, friendly human being at the other end when you (for sure) call for advice on using their products.

I sprayed Nitro lacquer for many years in a garage.  It is nasty, toxic stuff that will stink up your shop.  If your are married and spraying in the basement, you won't be by the time the piano is done.  :-)

I cannot think of a worse starter piano than a satin ebony piano that is pushing 8' in length.  The word masochist comes to mind.  You know why a good pro piano refinisher is so good?  He has already made his 10,000 mistakes and learned from each.  You, on the other hand, don't even know what the mistakes are and why they happened, and they will be front loaded heavily in that first piano.  Doing your first piano is like walking across Siberia, and that big piano will be a very long walk.  Worse still, a satin ebony lacquer is the most difficult to do in that all your mistakes (I repeat all) will be right there on the surface because the finish is opaque, thumbing their noses at you every time you walk by.

Good equipment is a must for a good job, as are good finishing materials .  A good spray gun can run $500 easy, the HVLP systems with a gun 1 or 2 thousand.

I would start with a smaller, much less ambitious piano

The best advice so far is Jon's recommendation of water based Crystalac lacquers, applied with a good HVLP gun.  I used those products for many years and they are quite good.  It is a small company, and you will talk to a real, friendly human being at the other end when you (for sure) call for advice on using their products.

I sprayed Nitro lacquer for many years in a garage.  It is nasty, toxic stuff that will stink up your shop.  If your are married and spraying in the basement, you won't be by the time the piano is done.  :-)

I cannot think of a worse starter piano than a satin ebony piano that is pushing 8' in length.  The word masochist comes to mind.  You know why a good pro piano refinisher is so good?  He has already made his 10,000 mistakes and learned from each.  You, on the other hand, don't even know what the mistakes are and why they happened, and they will be front loaded heavily in that first piano.  Doing your first piano is like walking across Siberia, and that big piano will be a very long walk.  Worse still, a satin ebony lacquer is the most difficult to do in that all your mistakes (I repeat all) will be right there on the surface because the finish is opaque, thumbing their noses at you every time you walk by.

Good equipment is a must for a good job, as are good finishing materials .  A good spray gun can run $500 easy, the HVLP systems with a gun 1 or 2 thousand.

I would start with a smaller, much less ambitious piano

The best advice so far is Jon's recommendation of water based Crystalac lacquers, applied with a good HVLP gun.  I used those products for many years and they are quite good.  It is a small company, and you will talk to a real, friendly human being at the other end when you (for sure) call for advice on using their products.

I sprayed Nitro lacquer for many years in a garage.  It is nasty, toxic stuff that will stink up your shop.  If your are married and spraying in the basement, you won't be by the time the piano is done.  :-)

I cannot think of a worse starter piano than a satin ebony piano that is pushing 8' in length.  The word masochist comes to mind.  You know why a good pro piano refinisher is so good?  He has already made his 10,000 mistakes and learned from each.  You, on the other hand, don't even know what the mistakes are and why they happened, and they will be front loaded heavily in that first piano.  Doing your first piano is like walking across Siberia, and that big piano will be a very long walk.  Worse still, a satin ebony lacquer is the most difficult to do in that all your mistakes (I repeat all) will be right there on the surface because the finish is opaque, thumbing their noses at you every time you walk by.

Good equipment is a must for a good job, as are good finishing materials .  A good spray gun can run $500 easy, the HVLP systems with a gun 1 or 2 thousand.

I would start with a smaller, much less ambitious piano

The best advice so far is Jon's recommendation of water based Crystalac lacquers, applied with a good HVLP gun.  I used those products for many years and they are quite good.  It is a small company, and you will talk to a real, friendly human being at the other end when you (for sure) call for advice on using their products.

I sprayed Nitro lacquer for many years in a garage.  It is nasty, toxic stuff that will stink up your shop.  If your are married and spraying in the basement, you won't be by the time the piano is done.  :-)

I cannot think of a worse starter piano than a satin ebony piano that is pushing 8' in length.  The word masochist comes to mind.  You know why a good pro piano refinisher is so good?  He has already made his 10,000 mistakes and learned from each.  You, on the other hand, don't even know what the mistakes are and why they happened, and they will be front loaded heavily in that first piano.  Doing your first piano is like walking across Siberia, and that big piano will be a very long walk.  Worse still, a satin ebony lacquer is the most difficult to do in that all your mistakes (I repeat all) will be right there on the surface because the finish is opaque, thumbing their noses at you every time you walk by.

Good equipment is a must for a good job, as are good finishing materials .  A good spray gun can run $500 easy, the HVLP systems with a gun 1 or 2 thousand.

I would start with a smaller, much less ambitious piano

The best advice so far is Jon's recommendation of water based Crystalac lacquers, applied with a good HVLP gun.  I used those products for many years and they are quite good.  It is a small company, and you will talk to a real, friendly human being at the other end when you (for sure) call for advice on using their products.

I sprayed Nitro lacquer for many years in a garage.  It is nasty, toxic stuff that will stink up your shop.  If your are married and spraying in the basement, you won't be by the time the piano is done.  :-)

I cannot think of a worse starter piano than a satin ebony piano that is pushing 8' in length.  The word masochist comes to mind.  You know why a good pro piano refinisher is so good?  He has already made his 10,000 mistakes and learned from each.  You, on the other hand, don't even know what the mistakes are and why they happened, and they will be front loaded heavily in that first piano.  Doing your first piano is like walking across Siberia, and that big piano will be a very long walk.  Worse still, a satin ebony lacquer is the most difficult to do in that all your mistakes (I repeat all) will be right there on the surface because the finish is opaque, thumbing their noses at you every time you walk by.

Good equipment is a must for a good job, as are good finishing materials .  A good spray gun can run $500 easy, the HVLP systems with a gun 1 or 2 thousand.

I would start with a smaller, much less ambitious piano

The best advice so far is Jon's recommendation of water based Crystalac lacquers, applied with a good HVLP gun.  I used those products for many years and they are quite good.  It is a small company, and you will talk to a real, friendly human being at the other end when you (for sure) call for advice on using their products.

I sprayed Nitro lacquer for many years in a garage.  It is nasty, toxic stuff that will stink up your shop.  If your are married and spraying in the basement, you won't be by the time the piano is done.  :-)

I cannot think of a worse starter piano than a satin ebony piano that is pushing 8' in length.  The word masochist comes to mind.  You know why a good pro piano refinisher is so good?  He has already made his 10,000 mistakes and learned from each.  You, on the other hand, don't even know what the mistakes are and why they happened, and they will be front loaded heavily in that first piano.  Doing your first piano is like walking across Siberia, and that big piano will be a very long walk.  Worse still, a satin ebony lacquer is the most difficult to do in that all your mistakes (I repeat all) will be right there on the surface because the finish is opaque, thumbing their noses at you every time you walk by.

Good equipment is a must for a good job, as are good finishing materials .  A good spray gun can run $500 easy, the HVLP systems with a gun 1 or 2 thousand.

I would start with a smaller, much less ambitious piano

The best advice so far is Jon's recommendation of water based Crystalac lacquers, applied with a good HVLP gun.  I used those products for many years and they are quite good.  It is a small company, and you will talk to a real, friendly human being at the other end when you (for sure) call for advice on using their products.

I sprayed Nitro lacquer for many years in a garage.  It is nasty, toxic stuff that will stink up your shop.  If your are married and spraying in the basement, you won't be by the time the piano is done.  :-)

I cannot think of a worse starter piano than a satin ebony piano that is pushing 8' in length.  The word masochist comes to mind.  You know why a good pro piano refinisher is so good?  He has already made his 10,000 mistakes and learned from each.  You, on the other hand, don't even know what the mistakes are and why they happened, and they will be front loaded heavily in that first piano.  Doing your first piano is like walking across Siberia, and that big piano will be a very long walk.  Worse still, a satin ebony lacquer is the most difficult to do in that all your mistakes (I repeat all) will be right there on the surface because the finish is opaque, thumbing their noses at you every time you walk by.

Good equipment is a must for a good job, as are good finishing materials .  A good spray gun can run $500 easy, the HVLP systems with a gun 1 or 2 thousand.

I would start with a smaller, much less ambitious piano

The best advice so far is Jon's recommendation of water based Crystalac lacquers, applied with a good HVLP gun.  I used those products for many years and they are quite good.  It is a small company, and you will talk to a real, friendly human being at the other end when you (for sure) call for advice on using their products.

I sprayed Nitro lacquer for many years in a garage.  It is nasty, toxic stuff that will stink up your shop.  If your are married and spraying in the basement, you won't be by the time the piano is done.  :-)

I cannot think of a worse starter piano than a satin ebony piano that is pushing 8' in length.  The word masochist comes to mind.  You know why a good pro piano refinisher is so good?  He has already made his 10,000 mistakes and learned from each.  You, on the other hand, don't even know what the mistakes are and why they happened, and they will be front loaded heavily in that first piano.  Doing your first piano is like walking across Siberia, and that big piano will be a very long walk.  Worse still, a satin ebony lacquer is the most difficult to do in that all your mistakes (I repeat all) will be right there on the surface because the finish is opaque, thumbing their noses at you every time you walk by.

Good equipment is a must for a good job, as are good finishing materials .  A good spray gun can run $500 easy, the HVLP systems with a gun 1 or 2 thousand.

I would start with a smaller, much less ambitious piano

The best advice so far is Jon's recommendation of water based Crystalac lacquers, applied with a good HVLP gun.  I used those products for many years and they are quite good.  It is a small company, and you will talk to a real, friendly human being at the other end when you (for sure) call for advice on using their products.

I sprayed Nitro lacquer for many years in a garage.  It is nasty, toxic stuff that will stink up your shop.  If your are married and spraying in the basement, you won't be by the time the piano is done.  :-)

I cannot think of a worse starter piano than a satin ebony piano that is pushing 8' in length.  The word masochist comes to mind.  You know why a good pro piano refinisher is so good?  He has already made his 10,000 mistakes and learned from each.  You, on the other hand, don't even know what the mistakes are and why they happened, and they will be front loaded heavily in that first piano.  Doing your first piano is like walking across Siberia, and that big piano will be a very long walk.  Worse still, a satin ebony lacquer is the most difficult to do in that all your mistakes (I repeat all) will be right there on the surface because the finish is opaque, thumbing their noses at you every time you walk by.

Good equipment is a must for a good job, as are good finishing materials .  A good spray gun can run $500 easy, the HVLP systems with a gun 1 or 2 thousand.

I would start with a smaller, much less ambitious piano

The best advice so far is Jon's recommendation of water based Crystalac lacquers, applied with a good HVLP gun.  I used those products for many years and they are quite good.  It is a small company, and you will talk to a real, friendly human being at the other end when you (for sure) call for advice on using their products.

I sprayed Nitro lacquer for many years in a garage.  It is nasty, toxic stuff that will stink up your shop.  If your are married and spraying in the basement, you won't be by the time the piano is done.  :-)

I cannot think of a worse starter piano than a satin ebony piano that is pushing 8' in length.  The word masochist comes to mind.  You know why a good pro piano refinisher is so good?  He has already made his 10,000 mistakes and learned from each.  You, on the other hand, don't even know what the mistakes are and why they happened, and they will be front loaded heavily in that first piano.  Doing your first piano is like walking across Siberia, and that big piano will be a very long walk.  Worse still, a satin ebony lacquer is the most difficult to do in that all your mistakes (I repeat all) will be right there on the surface because the finish is opaque, thumbing their noses at you every time you walk by.

Good equipment is a must for a good job, as are good finishing materials .  A good spray gun can run $500 easy, the HVLP systems with a gun 1 or 2 thousand.

I would start with a smaller, much less ambitious piano

The best advice so far is Jon's recommendation of water based Crystalac lacquers, applied with a good HVLP gun.  I used those products for many years and they are quite good.  It is a small company, and you will talk to a real, friendly human being at the other end when you (for sure) call for advice on using their products.

I sprayed Nitro lacquer for many years in a garage.  It is nasty, toxic stuff that will stink up your shop.  If your are married and spraying in the basement, you won't be by the time the piano is done.  :-)

I cannot think of a worse starter piano than a satin ebony piano that is pushing 8' in length.  The word masochist comes to mind.  You know why a good pro piano refinisher is so good?  He has already made his 10,000 mistakes and learned from each.  You, on the other hand, don't even know what the mistakes are and why they happened, and they will be front loaded heavily in that first piano.  Doing your first piano is like walking across Siberia, and that big piano will be a very long walk.  Worse still, a satin ebony lacquer is the most difficult to do in that all your mistakes (I repeat all) will be right there on the surface because the finish is opaque, thumbing their noses at you every time you walk by.

Good equipment is a must for a good job, as are good finishing materials .  A good spray gun can run $500 easy, the HVLP systems with a gun 1 or 2 thousand.

I would start with a smaller, much less ambitious piano

The best advice so far is Jon's recommendation of water based Crystalac lacquers, applied with a good HVLP gun.  I used those products for many years and they are quite good.  It is a small company, and you will talk to a real, friendly human being at the other end when you (for sure) call for advice on using their products.

I sprayed Nitro lacquer for many years in a garage.  It is nasty, toxic stuff that will stink up your shop.  If your are married and spraying in the basement, you won't be by the time the piano is done.  :-)

I cannot think of a worse starter piano than a satin ebony piano that is pushing 8' in length.  The word masochist comes to mind.  You know why a good pro piano refinisher is so good?  He has already made his 10,000 mistakes and learned from each.  You, on the other hand, don't even know what the mistakes are and why they happened, and they will be front loaded heavily in that first piano.  Doing your first piano is like walking across Siberia, and that big piano will be a very long walk.  Worse still, a satin ebony lacquer is the most difficult to do in that all your mistakes (I repeat all) will be right there on the surface because the finish is opaque, thumbing their noses at you every time you walk by.

Good equipment is a must for a good job, as are good finishing materials .  A good spray gun can run $500 easy, the HVLP systems with a gun 1 or 2 thousand.

I would start with a smaller, much less ambitious piano

The best advice so far is Jon's recommendation of water based Crystalac lacquers, applied with a good HVLP gun.  I used those products for many years and they are quite good.  It is a small company, and you will talk to a real, friendly human being at the other end when you (for sure) call for advice on using their products.

I sprayed Nitro lacquer for many years in a garage.  It is nasty, toxic stuff that will stink up your shop.  If your are married and spraying in the basement, you won't be by the time the piano is done.  :-)

I cannot think of a worse starter piano than a satin ebony piano that is pushing 8' in length.  The word masochist comes to mind.  You know why a good pro piano refinisher is so good?  He has already made his 10,000 mistakes and learned from each.  You, on the other hand, don't even know what the mistakes are and why they happened, and they will be front loaded heavily in that first piano.  Doing your first piano is like walking across Siberia, and that big piano will be a very long walk.  Worse still, a satin ebony lacquer is the most difficult to do in that all your mistakes (I repeat all) will be right there on the surface because the finish is opaque, thumbing their noses at you every time you walk by.

Good equipment is a must for a good job, as are good finishing materials .  A good spray gun can run $500 easy, the HVLP systems with a gun 1 or 2 thousand.

I would start with a smaller, much less ambitious piano

The best advice so far is Jon's recommendation of water based Crystalac lacquers, applied with a good HVLP gun.  I used those products for many years and they are quite good.  It is a small company, and you will talk to a real, friendly human being at the other end when you (for sure) call for advice on using their products.

I sprayed Nitro lacquer for many years in a garage.  It is nasty, toxic stuff that will stink up your shop.  If your are married and spraying in the basement, you won't be by the time the piano is done.  :-)

I cannot think of a worse starter piano than a satin ebony piano that is pushing 8' in length.  The word masochist comes to mind.  You know why a good pro piano refinisher is so good?  He has already made his 10,000 mistakes and learned from each.  You, on the other hand, don't even know what the mistakes are and why they happened, and they will be front loaded heavily in that first piano.  Doing your first piano is like walking across Siberia, and that big piano will be a very long walk.  Worse still, a satin ebony lacquer is the most difficult to do in that all your mistakes (I repeat all) will be right there on the surface because the finish is opaque, thumbing their noses at you every time you walk by.

Good equipment is a must for a good job, as are good finishing materials .  A good spray gun can run $500 easy, the HVLP systems with a gun 1 or 2 thousand.

I would start with a smaller, much less ambitious piano

The best advice so far is Jon's recommendation of water based Crystalac lacquers, applied with a good HVLP gun.  I used those products for many years and they are quite good.  It is a small company, and you will talk to a real, friendly human being at the other end when you (for sure) call for advice on using their products.

I sprayed Nitro lacquer for many years in a garage.  It is nasty, toxic stuff that will stink up your shop.  If your are married and spraying in the basement, you won't be by the time the piano is done.  :-)

I cannot think of a worse starter piano than a satin ebony piano that is pushing 8' in length.  The word masochist comes to mind.  You know why a good pro piano refinisher is so good?  He has already made his 10,000 mistakes and learned from each.  You, on the other hand, don't even know what the mistakes are and why they happened, and they will be front loaded heavily in that first piano.  Doing your first piano is like walking across Siberia, and that big piano will be a very long walk.  Worse still, a satin ebony lacquer is the most difficult to do in that all your mistakes (I repeat all) will be right there on the surface because the finish is opaque, thumbing their noses at you every time you walk by.

Good equipment is a must for a good job, as are good finishing materials .  A good spray gun can run $500 easy, the HVLP systems with a gun 1 or 2 thousand.

I would start with a smaller, much less ambitious piano