Pianotech

​

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 8/26/2022 11:27:00 AM
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Boston GP 178 #175447 PE

It seems like a really bad idea to have pins lined up along the woodgrain. 

The University had also bought 2 Boston UP-118S at the same time.
On both of those many of the key tops came unglued.
They have started buying Yamahas again.

​

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------

Wim, I just noticed the advertisement for your regional seminar says Southeast in the fine print but the LARGE part of the ad says "South Central Regional Conference" lol. Oops..

------------------------------
Kevin Fortenberry
Registered Piano Technician
Longview, TX 75602
806-778-3962
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 08-26-2022 11:31
From: Wim Blees
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Are they "young" enough to be covered by a warrantee of some sorts?

Wim

Original Message:
Sent: 8/26/2022 11:27:00 AM
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Boston GP 178 #175447 PE

It seems like a really bad idea to have pins lined up along the woodgrain.

The University had also bought 2 Boston UP-118S at the same time.
On both of those many of the key tops came unglued.
They have started buying Yamahas again.

​

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------

Looks like a case of excessive side bearing (s/b). A new cap to correct the s/b and eliminate the crack is in order. Warranty?

In that area, it's impossible not to have the pin line along the grain line. I think it was the older Knabes that had the cap's grain parallel to the wire. That split even more!

------------------------------
Regards,

Jon Page
mailto:jonpage@comcast.net
http://www.pianocapecod.com
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 08-26-2022 11:26
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Boston GP 178 #175447 PE

It seems like a really bad idea to have pins lined up along the woodgrain.

The University had also bought 2 Boston UP-118S at the same time.
On both of those many of the key tops came unglued.
They have started buying Yamahas again.

​

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 8/26/2022 11:27:00 AM
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Boston GP 178 #175447 PE

It seems like a really bad idea to have pins lined up along the woodgrain. 

The University had also bought 2 Boston UP-118S at the same time.
On both of those many of the key tops came unglued.
They have started buying Yamahas again.

​

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------

Correct me if I'm wrong but this piano is less than 10 years old and this didn't just happen yesterday. Isn't there a 10 year warranty on it (or is it same as steinway at 5 years)?

Peter Grey Piano Doctor

------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 08-27-2022 12:53
From: Joe Wiencek
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

I have been thinking about these severely split caps recently, particularly after recapping the high treble on a Steinway upright. When the split is as severe as in your photo, it seems that the bridge root may deserve a lot more credit than the cap. In vertically laminated bridge roots, one particular layer of laminations seems to get drilled, weakened right along the speaking side of the highest several unisons.  The laminations are often as thin as the diameter of bridge pins, and that one layer's glue line severely eroded. Then adding the pressure of tight fitting pins, and the laminations can open like butterfly wings. 

Can you see the side of the bridge root? I'll bet the root is split or the laminations are separating right underneath the split cap. 

I wonder if staggering the laminations' orientation or putting a solid piece for the bridge root at the high end would help prevent this condition?

Joe Wiencek

NYC

Original Message:
Sent: 8/26/2022 11:27:00 AM
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Boston GP 178 #175447 PE

It seems like a really bad idea to have pins lined up along the woodgrain.

The University had also bought 2 Boston UP-118S at the same time.
On both of those many of the key tops came unglued.
They have started buying Yamahas again.

​

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------

Actually in the photo, the grain isn't parallel with the pins. And Jon alluded to severe sidebearing. But neither of these issues is the cause of what you see. Its simply that they used wood with a too low janka hardness. Even hard rock maple (which i believe is too low in janka hardness) doesn't tear like the wood in the photo did.
-chris

------------------------------
Chernobieff Piano Restorations
"Where Tone is Key, and Mammoths are not extinct."
865-986-7720 (text only please)
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 08-26-2022 11:26
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Boston GP 178 #175447 PE

It seems like a really bad idea to have pins lined up along the woodgrain.

The University had also bought 2 Boston UP-118S at the same time.
On both of those many of the key tops came unglued.
They have started buying Yamahas again.

​

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------

The wood might be a weak point but if you notice the old string marks, You'll notice excessive side bearing. Had there been normal side bearing, the wood might not have let go. The side bearing is OK now in its shifted state.  I would remove the pins, epoxy and clamp and install plugs made from pin block scraps. Being careful to relocated the pins to their new position. That is, if it's not covered under warranty.

------------------------------
Regards,

Jon Page
mailto:jonpage@comcast.net
http://www.pianocapecod.com
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 08-27-2022 18:31
From: Chris Chernobieff
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Actually in the photo, the grain isn't parallel with the pins. And Jon alluded to severe sidebearing. But neither of these issues is the cause of what you see. Its simply that they used wood with a too low janka hardness. Even hard rock maple (which i believe is too low in janka hardness) doesn't tear like the wood in the photo did.
-chris

------------------------------
Chernobieff Piano Restorations
"Where Tone is Key, and Mammoths are not extinct."
865-986-7720 (text only please)

Original Message:
Sent: 08-26-2022 11:26
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Boston GP 178 #175447 PE

It seems like a really bad idea to have pins lined up along the woodgrain.

The University had also bought 2 Boston UP-118S at the same time.
On both of those many of the key tops came unglued.
They have started buying Yamahas again.

​

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------

If out of warranty the simplest fix would be to simply epoxy things together in their current configuration with no clamping (remove tension of course). Create a dam and fill it with thin epoxy with hypodermic needle. Done...not going anywhere.  KISS

Peter Grey Piano Doctor

------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 08-29-2022 07:17
From: Jon Page
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

The wood might be a weak point but if you notice the old string marks, You'll notice excessive side bearing. Had there been normal side bearing, the wood might not have let go. The side bearing is OK now in its shifted state.  I would remove the pins, epoxy and clamp and install plugs made from pin block scraps. Being careful to relocated the pins to their new position. That is, if it's not covered under warranty.

------------------------------
Regards,

Jon Page
mailto:jonpage@comcast.net
http://www.pianocapecod.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-27-2022 18:31
From: Chris Chernobieff
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Actually in the photo, the grain isn't parallel with the pins. And Jon alluded to severe sidebearing. But neither of these issues is the cause of what you see. Its simply that they used wood with a too low janka hardness. Even hard rock maple (which i believe is too low in janka hardness) doesn't tear like the wood in the photo did.
-chris

------------------------------
Chernobieff Piano Restorations
"Where Tone is Key, and Mammoths are not extinct."
865-986-7720 (text only please)

Original Message:
Sent: 08-26-2022 11:26
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Boston GP 178 #175447 PE

It seems like a really bad idea to have pins lined up along the woodgrain.

The University had also bought 2 Boston UP-118S at the same time.
On both of those many of the key tops came unglued.
They have started buying Yamahas again.

​

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 8/29/2022 8:10:00 AM
From: Peter Grey
Subject: RE: Boston Bridge Splitting

If out of warranty the simplest fix would be to simply epoxy things together in their current configuration with no clamping (remove tension of course). Create a dam and fill it with thin epoxy with hypodermic needle. Done...not going anywhere.  KISS

Peter Grey Piano Doctor

------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 08-29-2022 07:17
From: Jon Page
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

The wood might be a weak point but if you notice the old string marks, You'll notice excessive side bearing. Had there been normal side bearing, the wood might not have let go. The side bearing is OK now in its shifted state.  I would remove the pins, epoxy and clamp and install plugs made from pin block scraps. Being careful to relocated the pins to their new position. That is, if it's not covered under warranty.

------------------------------
Regards,

Jon Page
mailto:jonpage@comcast.net
http://www.pianocapecod.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-27-2022 18:31
From: Chris Chernobieff
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Actually in the photo, the grain isn't parallel with the pins. And Jon alluded to severe sidebearing. But neither of these issues is the cause of what you see. Its simply that they used wood with a too low janka hardness. Even hard rock maple (which i believe is too low in janka hardness) doesn't tear like the wood in the photo did.
-chris

------------------------------
Chernobieff Piano Restorations
"Where Tone is Key, and Mammoths are not extinct."
865-986-7720 (text only please)

Original Message:
Sent: 08-26-2022 11:26
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Boston GP 178 #175447 PE

It seems like a really bad idea to have pins lined up along the woodgrain.

The University had also bought 2 Boston UP-118S at the same time.
On both of those many of the key tops came unglued.
They have started buying Yamahas again.

​

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------

Question, approx how long before your able to restring. Do you schedule a return visit?

------------------------------
Les Koltvedt
Marietta GA
lkpianos@gmail.com
https://www.lkpianos.com
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 08-30-2022 01:18
From: David Love
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

I agree to keep it simple. 

1.  Remove the strings from the affected pins. Detach from the hitches only and move them to the side. 
2. Use a two part epoxy like West system with a medium density filleting blend. Use the faster catalyst. Mix it so it's just slightly runny, a bit thicker than honey so it doesn't run all over the place. It should be thin enough to inject with a glue injector but thick enough that it won't run freely. 
3. Using a glue injector with a fine tip inject the glue directly into the bridge pin holes. Remove them if necessary while you inject to capacity and replace the pins in the proper position. 
4. Use a couple of small C clamps to pull the cap back together but don't feel that you need to squeeze it together as you would using Titebond. Epoxy works better when there is some thickness to it. If the glue line is 1/32" or so wide (or even slightly wider) that's ok. 
5. Clamping should produce some squeeze out. Make sure it does. 
6. Using some dental tools and a small flat blade screwdriver, clean up the squeeze out. Be careful to clean all the excess from the top of the cap and from around the base of the pins and try and smooth the notch area. Use a magnifying glass if necessary. 
7. If you've made the epoxy thick enough it should hold its shape and not migrate or run but hang around long enough for it to start to cure and check it frequently adding small amounts of epoxy with the small screwdriver blade if needed. 
8. When you return after the epoxy is fully cured use some small files to do any final clean up around the pins and at the edge of the notches. Don't Nick the bridge pins with the file. A sharp very narrow chisel can be used as a scraper if needed.  You don't want any epoxy extending past the pin line or you'll get noise.  A small piece of 400 paper can be used to smooth the cap of any glue residue you may have missed. 
9. Using a graphite pencil or Dag touch up the bridge to blend the color back to the original as needed. 
10. Replace the strings and you're  on your way. 

Get Outlook for iOS

Original Message:
Sent: 8/29/2022 8:10:00 AM
From: Peter Grey
Subject: RE: Boston Bridge Splitting

If out of warranty the simplest fix would be to simply epoxy things together in their current configuration with no clamping (remove tension of course). Create a dam and fill it with thin epoxy with hypodermic needle. Done...not going anywhere.  KISS

Peter Grey Piano Doctor

------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-29-2022 07:17
From: Jon Page
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

The wood might be a weak point but if you notice the old string marks, You'll notice excessive side bearing. Had there been normal side bearing, the wood might not have let go. The side bearing is OK now in its shifted state.  I would remove the pins, epoxy and clamp and install plugs made from pin block scraps. Being careful to relocated the pins to their new position. That is, if it's not covered under warranty.

------------------------------
Regards,

Jon Page
mailto:jonpage@comcast.net
http://www.pianocapecod.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-27-2022 18:31
From: Chris Chernobieff
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Actually in the photo, the grain isn't parallel with the pins. And Jon alluded to severe sidebearing. But neither of these issues is the cause of what you see. Its simply that they used wood with a too low janka hardness. Even hard rock maple (which i believe is too low in janka hardness) doesn't tear like the wood in the photo did.
-chris

------------------------------
Chernobieff Piano Restorations
"Where Tone is Key, and Mammoths are not extinct."
865-986-7720 (text only please)

Original Message:
Sent: 08-26-2022 11:26
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Boston GP 178 #175447 PE

It seems like a really bad idea to have pins lined up along the woodgrain.

The University had also bought 2 Boston UP-118S at the same time.
On both of those many of the key tops came unglued.
They have started buying Yamahas again.

​

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------

Les,

I think I put things back together about a week later.  I'd wait 3 days for sure.

Peter Grey Piano Doctor

------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 08-31-2022 09:49
From: Leslie Koltvedt
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Question, approx how long before your able to restring. Do you schedule a return visit?

------------------------------
Les Koltvedt
Marietta GA
lkpianos@gmail.com
https://www.lkpianos.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-30-2022 01:18
From: David Love
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

I agree to keep it simple. 

1.  Remove the strings from the affected pins. Detach from the hitches only and move them to the side. 
2. Use a two part epoxy like West system with a medium density filleting blend. Use the faster catalyst. Mix it so it's just slightly runny, a bit thicker than honey so it doesn't run all over the place. It should be thin enough to inject with a glue injector but thick enough that it won't run freely. 
3. Using a glue injector with a fine tip inject the glue directly into the bridge pin holes. Remove them if necessary while you inject to capacity and replace the pins in the proper position. 
4. Use a couple of small C clamps to pull the cap back together but don't feel that you need to squeeze it together as you would using Titebond. Epoxy works better when there is some thickness to it. If the glue line is 1/32" or so wide (or even slightly wider) that's ok. 
5. Clamping should produce some squeeze out. Make sure it does. 
6. Using some dental tools and a small flat blade screwdriver, clean up the squeeze out. Be careful to clean all the excess from the top of the cap and from around the base of the pins and try and smooth the notch area. Use a magnifying glass if necessary. 
7. If you've made the epoxy thick enough it should hold its shape and not migrate or run but hang around long enough for it to start to cure and check it frequently adding small amounts of epoxy with the small screwdriver blade if needed. 
8. When you return after the epoxy is fully cured use some small files to do any final clean up around the pins and at the edge of the notches. Don't Nick the bridge pins with the file. A sharp very narrow chisel can be used as a scraper if needed.  You don't want any epoxy extending past the pin line or you'll get noise.  A small piece of 400 paper can be used to smooth the cap of any glue residue you may have missed. 
9. Using a graphite pencil or Dag touch up the bridge to blend the color back to the original as needed. 
10. Replace the strings and you're  on your way. 

Get Outlook for iOS

Original Message:
Sent: 8/29/2022 8:10:00 AM
From: Peter Grey
Subject: RE: Boston Bridge Splitting

If out of warranty the simplest fix would be to simply epoxy things together in their current configuration with no clamping (remove tension of course). Create a dam and fill it with thin epoxy with hypodermic needle. Done...not going anywhere.  KISS

Peter Grey Piano Doctor

------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-29-2022 07:17
From: Jon Page
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

The wood might be a weak point but if you notice the old string marks, You'll notice excessive side bearing. Had there been normal side bearing, the wood might not have let go. The side bearing is OK now in its shifted state.  I would remove the pins, epoxy and clamp and install plugs made from pin block scraps. Being careful to relocated the pins to their new position. That is, if it's not covered under warranty.

------------------------------
Regards,

Jon Page
mailto:jonpage@comcast.net
http://www.pianocapecod.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-27-2022 18:31
From: Chris Chernobieff
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Actually in the photo, the grain isn't parallel with the pins. And Jon alluded to severe sidebearing. But neither of these issues is the cause of what you see. Its simply that they used wood with a too low janka hardness. Even hard rock maple (which i believe is too low in janka hardness) doesn't tear like the wood in the photo did.
-chris

------------------------------
Chernobieff Piano Restorations
"Where Tone is Key, and Mammoths are not extinct."
865-986-7720 (text only please)

Original Message:
Sent: 08-26-2022 11:26
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Boston GP 178 #175447 PE

It seems like a really bad idea to have pins lined up along the woodgrain.

The University had also bought 2 Boston UP-118S at the same time.
On both of those many of the key tops came unglued.
They have started buying Yamahas again.

​

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------

Thanks for all of the replies.
I have learned a lot.

We found out that the piano has 2 months left on its Warranty. A claim is being submitted.

The piano is situated in a large University Dining room. The buildings have a lot of swing in humidity between the summer AC and the winter heating. There is a Dampp-Chaser unit installed.

Two more bridge related questions.

1. Pianos with little cracks around the pins that cause false beats. I have used a little super glue. Is this best or is epoxy a better fix.

2. Old Baldwin upright with bridge cap separation. The piano isn't worth much. But it is a friend's who is attached to it. From a purely construction aspect. I would think a little tite bond and a couple of brads from a nail gun would do the trick. Is there a proper fix? Epoxy?

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 08-31-2022 10:00
From: Peter Grey
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Les,

I think I put things back together about a week later.  I'd wait 3 days for sure.

Peter Grey Piano Doctor

------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-31-2022 09:49
From: Leslie Koltvedt
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Question, approx how long before your able to restring. Do you schedule a return visit?

------------------------------
Les Koltvedt
Marietta GA
lkpianos@gmail.com
https://www.lkpianos.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-30-2022 01:18
From: David Love
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

I agree to keep it simple. 

1.  Remove the strings from the affected pins. Detach from the hitches only and move them to the side. 
2. Use a two part epoxy like West system with a medium density filleting blend. Use the faster catalyst. Mix it so it's just slightly runny, a bit thicker than honey so it doesn't run all over the place. It should be thin enough to inject with a glue injector but thick enough that it won't run freely. 
3. Using a glue injector with a fine tip inject the glue directly into the bridge pin holes. Remove them if necessary while you inject to capacity and replace the pins in the proper position. 
4. Use a couple of small C clamps to pull the cap back together but don't feel that you need to squeeze it together as you would using Titebond. Epoxy works better when there is some thickness to it. If the glue line is 1/32" or so wide (or even slightly wider) that's ok. 
5. Clamping should produce some squeeze out. Make sure it does. 
6. Using some dental tools and a small flat blade screwdriver, clean up the squeeze out. Be careful to clean all the excess from the top of the cap and from around the base of the pins and try and smooth the notch area. Use a magnifying glass if necessary. 
7. If you've made the epoxy thick enough it should hold its shape and not migrate or run but hang around long enough for it to start to cure and check it frequently adding small amounts of epoxy with the small screwdriver blade if needed. 
8. When you return after the epoxy is fully cured use some small files to do any final clean up around the pins and at the edge of the notches. Don't Nick the bridge pins with the file. A sharp very narrow chisel can be used as a scraper if needed.  You don't want any epoxy extending past the pin line or you'll get noise.  A small piece of 400 paper can be used to smooth the cap of any glue residue you may have missed. 
9. Using a graphite pencil or Dag touch up the bridge to blend the color back to the original as needed. 
10. Replace the strings and you're  on your way. 

Get Outlook for iOS

Original Message:
Sent: 8/29/2022 8:10:00 AM
From: Peter Grey
Subject: RE: Boston Bridge Splitting

If out of warranty the simplest fix would be to simply epoxy things together in their current configuration with no clamping (remove tension of course). Create a dam and fill it with thin epoxy with hypodermic needle. Done...not going anywhere.  KISS

Peter Grey Piano Doctor

------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-29-2022 07:17
From: Jon Page
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

The wood might be a weak point but if you notice the old string marks, You'll notice excessive side bearing. Had there been normal side bearing, the wood might not have let go. The side bearing is OK now in its shifted state.  I would remove the pins, epoxy and clamp and install plugs made from pin block scraps. Being careful to relocated the pins to their new position. That is, if it's not covered under warranty.

------------------------------
Regards,

Jon Page
mailto:jonpage@comcast.net
http://www.pianocapecod.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-27-2022 18:31
From: Chris Chernobieff
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Actually in the photo, the grain isn't parallel with the pins. And Jon alluded to severe sidebearing. But neither of these issues is the cause of what you see. Its simply that they used wood with a too low janka hardness. Even hard rock maple (which i believe is too low in janka hardness) doesn't tear like the wood in the photo did.
-chris

------------------------------
Chernobieff Piano Restorations
"Where Tone is Key, and Mammoths are not extinct."
865-986-7720 (text only please)

Original Message:
Sent: 08-26-2022 11:26
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Boston GP 178 #175447 PE

It seems like a really bad idea to have pins lined up along the woodgrain.

The University had also bought 2 Boston UP-118S at the same time.
On both of those many of the key tops came unglued.
They have started buying Yamahas again.

​

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------

CA for the bridge pins but you should have dental tools to clean any migrating glue off the speaking length and any bead that may form between the notch and wire.
For the upright cap repair, screws are better than brads.

------------------------------
Regards,

Jon Page
mailto:jonpage@comcast.net
http://www.pianocapecod.com
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 08-31-2022 11:07
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Thanks for all of the replies.
I have learned a lot.

We found out that the piano has 2 months left on its Warranty. A claim is being submitted.

The piano is situated in a large University Dining room. The buildings have a lot of swing in humidity between the summer AC and the winter heating. There is a Dampp-Chaser unit installed.

Two more bridge related questions.

1. Pianos with little cracks around the pins that cause false beats. I have used a little super glue. Is this best or is epoxy a better fix.

2. Old Baldwin upright with bridge cap separation. The piano isn't worth much. But it is a friend's who is attached to it. From a purely construction aspect. I would think a little tite bond and a couple of brads from a nail gun would do the trick. Is there a proper fix? Epoxy?

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385

Original Message:
Sent: 08-31-2022 10:00
From: Peter Grey
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Les,

I think I put things back together about a week later.  I'd wait 3 days for sure.

Peter Grey Piano Doctor

------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-31-2022 09:49
From: Leslie Koltvedt
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Question, approx how long before your able to restring. Do you schedule a return visit?

------------------------------
Les Koltvedt
Marietta GA
lkpianos@gmail.com
https://www.lkpianos.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-30-2022 01:18
From: David Love
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

I agree to keep it simple. 

1.  Remove the strings from the affected pins. Detach from the hitches only and move them to the side. 
2. Use a two part epoxy like West system with a medium density filleting blend. Use the faster catalyst. Mix it so it's just slightly runny, a bit thicker than honey so it doesn't run all over the place. It should be thin enough to inject with a glue injector but thick enough that it won't run freely. 
3. Using a glue injector with a fine tip inject the glue directly into the bridge pin holes. Remove them if necessary while you inject to capacity and replace the pins in the proper position. 
4. Use a couple of small C clamps to pull the cap back together but don't feel that you need to squeeze it together as you would using Titebond. Epoxy works better when there is some thickness to it. If the glue line is 1/32" or so wide (or even slightly wider) that's ok. 
5. Clamping should produce some squeeze out. Make sure it does. 
6. Using some dental tools and a small flat blade screwdriver, clean up the squeeze out. Be careful to clean all the excess from the top of the cap and from around the base of the pins and try and smooth the notch area. Use a magnifying glass if necessary. 
7. If you've made the epoxy thick enough it should hold its shape and not migrate or run but hang around long enough for it to start to cure and check it frequently adding small amounts of epoxy with the small screwdriver blade if needed. 
8. When you return after the epoxy is fully cured use some small files to do any final clean up around the pins and at the edge of the notches. Don't Nick the bridge pins with the file. A sharp very narrow chisel can be used as a scraper if needed.  You don't want any epoxy extending past the pin line or you'll get noise.  A small piece of 400 paper can be used to smooth the cap of any glue residue you may have missed. 
9. Using a graphite pencil or Dag touch up the bridge to blend the color back to the original as needed. 
10. Replace the strings and you're  on your way. 

Get Outlook for iOS

Original Message:
Sent: 8/29/2022 8:10:00 AM
From: Peter Grey
Subject: RE: Boston Bridge Splitting

If out of warranty the simplest fix would be to simply epoxy things together in their current configuration with no clamping (remove tension of course). Create a dam and fill it with thin epoxy with hypodermic needle. Done...not going anywhere.  KISS

Peter Grey Piano Doctor

------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-29-2022 07:17
From: Jon Page
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

The wood might be a weak point but if you notice the old string marks, You'll notice excessive side bearing. Had there been normal side bearing, the wood might not have let go. The side bearing is OK now in its shifted state.  I would remove the pins, epoxy and clamp and install plugs made from pin block scraps. Being careful to relocated the pins to their new position. That is, if it's not covered under warranty.

------------------------------
Regards,

Jon Page
mailto:jonpage@comcast.net
http://www.pianocapecod.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-27-2022 18:31
From: Chris Chernobieff
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Actually in the photo, the grain isn't parallel with the pins. And Jon alluded to severe sidebearing. But neither of these issues is the cause of what you see. Its simply that they used wood with a too low janka hardness. Even hard rock maple (which i believe is too low in janka hardness) doesn't tear like the wood in the photo did.
-chris

------------------------------
Chernobieff Piano Restorations
"Where Tone is Key, and Mammoths are not extinct."
865-986-7720 (text only please)

Original Message:
Sent: 08-26-2022 11:26
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Boston GP 178 #175447 PE

It seems like a really bad idea to have pins lined up along the woodgrain.

The University had also bought 2 Boston UP-118S at the same time.
On both of those many of the key tops came unglued.
They have started buying Yamahas again.

​

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 8/31/2022 9:50:00 AM
From: Leslie Koltvedt
Subject: RE: Boston Bridge Splitting

Question, approx how long before your able to restring. Do you schedule a return visit?

------------------------------
Les Koltvedt
Marietta GA
lkpianos@gmail.com
https://www.lkpianos.com
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 08-30-2022 01:18
From: David Love
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

I agree to keep it simple. 

1.  Remove the strings from the affected pins. Detach from the hitches only and move them to the side. 
2. Use a two part epoxy like West system with a medium density filleting blend. Use the faster catalyst. Mix it so it's just slightly runny, a bit thicker than honey so it doesn't run all over the place. It should be thin enough to inject with a glue injector but thick enough that it won't run freely. 
3. Using a glue injector with a fine tip inject the glue directly into the bridge pin holes. Remove them if necessary while you inject to capacity and replace the pins in the proper position. 
4. Use a couple of small C clamps to pull the cap back together but don't feel that you need to squeeze it together as you would using Titebond. Epoxy works better when there is some thickness to it. If the glue line is 1/32" or so wide (or even slightly wider) that's ok. 
5. Clamping should produce some squeeze out. Make sure it does. 
6. Using some dental tools and a small flat blade screwdriver, clean up the squeeze out. Be careful to clean all the excess from the top of the cap and from around the base of the pins and try and smooth the notch area. Use a magnifying glass if necessary. 
7. If you've made the epoxy thick enough it should hold its shape and not migrate or run but hang around long enough for it to start to cure and check it frequently adding small amounts of epoxy with the small screwdriver blade if needed. 
8. When you return after the epoxy is fully cured use some small files to do any final clean up around the pins and at the edge of the notches. Don't Nick the bridge pins with the file. A sharp very narrow chisel can be used as a scraper if needed.  You don't want any epoxy extending past the pin line or you'll get noise.  A small piece of 400 paper can be used to smooth the cap of any glue residue you may have missed. 
9. Using a graphite pencil or Dag touch up the bridge to blend the color back to the original as needed. 
10. Replace the strings and you're  on your way. 

Get Outlook for iOS

Original Message:
Sent: 8/29/2022 8:10:00 AM
From: Peter Grey
Subject: RE: Boston Bridge Splitting

If out of warranty the simplest fix would be to simply epoxy things together in their current configuration with no clamping (remove tension of course). Create a dam and fill it with thin epoxy with hypodermic needle. Done...not going anywhere.  KISS

Peter Grey Piano Doctor

------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-29-2022 07:17
From: Jon Page
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

The wood might be a weak point but if you notice the old string marks, You'll notice excessive side bearing. Had there been normal side bearing, the wood might not have let go. The side bearing is OK now in its shifted state.  I would remove the pins, epoxy and clamp and install plugs made from pin block scraps. Being careful to relocated the pins to their new position. That is, if it's not covered under warranty.

------------------------------
Regards,

Jon Page
mailto:jonpage@comcast.net
http://www.pianocapecod.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-27-2022 18:31
From: Chris Chernobieff
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Actually in the photo, the grain isn't parallel with the pins. And Jon alluded to severe sidebearing. But neither of these issues is the cause of what you see. Its simply that they used wood with a too low janka hardness. Even hard rock maple (which i believe is too low in janka hardness) doesn't tear like the wood in the photo did.
-chris

------------------------------
Chernobieff Piano Restorations
"Where Tone is Key, and Mammoths are not extinct."
865-986-7720 (text only please)

Original Message:
Sent: 08-26-2022 11:26
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Boston GP 178 #175447 PE

It seems like a really bad idea to have pins lined up along the woodgrain.

The University had also bought 2 Boston UP-118S at the same time.
On both of those many of the key tops came unglued.
They have started buying Yamahas again.

​

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------

Thank you, David for your step-by-step description of the process: very helpful as werelots of the other suggestions.
Peter

------------------------------
Petrus Janssen
Peachtree City GA
(678) 416-8055
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 09-01-2022 01:18
From: David Love
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Because of the proximity of the piano it was probably a couple of days before I got back there to put the strings back on and pull up the pitch. Epoxy does take a bit of time to cure and you want it fully cured and this is two-part epoxy which is slow setting so I would say at least 24 - 48 hours would be best. 

Get Outlook for iOS

Original Message:
Sent: 8/31/2022 9:50:00 AM
From: Leslie Koltvedt
Subject: RE: Boston Bridge Splitting

Question, approx how long before your able to restring. Do you schedule a return visit?

------------------------------
Les Koltvedt
Marietta GA
lkpianos@gmail.com
https://www.lkpianos.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-30-2022 01:18
From: David Love
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

I agree to keep it simple. 

1.  Remove the strings from the affected pins. Detach from the hitches only and move them to the side. 
2. Use a two part epoxy like West system with a medium density filleting blend. Use the faster catalyst. Mix it so it's just slightly runny, a bit thicker than honey so it doesn't run all over the place. It should be thin enough to inject with a glue injector but thick enough that it won't run freely. 
3. Using a glue injector with a fine tip inject the glue directly into the bridge pin holes. Remove them if necessary while you inject to capacity and replace the pins in the proper position. 
4. Use a couple of small C clamps to pull the cap back together but don't feel that you need to squeeze it together as you would using Titebond. Epoxy works better when there is some thickness to it. If the glue line is 1/32" or so wide (or even slightly wider) that's ok. 
5. Clamping should produce some squeeze out. Make sure it does. 
6. Using some dental tools and a small flat blade screwdriver, clean up the squeeze out. Be careful to clean all the excess from the top of the cap and from around the base of the pins and try and smooth the notch area. Use a magnifying glass if necessary. 
7. If you've made the epoxy thick enough it should hold its shape and not migrate or run but hang around long enough for it to start to cure and check it frequently adding small amounts of epoxy with the small screwdriver blade if needed. 
8. When you return after the epoxy is fully cured use some small files to do any final clean up around the pins and at the edge of the notches. Don't Nick the bridge pins with the file. A sharp very narrow chisel can be used as a scraper if needed.  You don't want any epoxy extending past the pin line or you'll get noise.  A small piece of 400 paper can be used to smooth the cap of any glue residue you may have missed. 
9. Using a graphite pencil or Dag touch up the bridge to blend the color back to the original as needed. 
10. Replace the strings and you're  on your way. 

Get Outlook for iOS

Original Message:
Sent: 8/29/2022 8:10:00 AM
From: Peter Grey
Subject: RE: Boston Bridge Splitting

If out of warranty the simplest fix would be to simply epoxy things together in their current configuration with no clamping (remove tension of course). Create a dam and fill it with thin epoxy with hypodermic needle. Done...not going anywhere.  KISS

Peter Grey Piano Doctor

------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-29-2022 07:17
From: Jon Page
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

The wood might be a weak point but if you notice the old string marks, You'll notice excessive side bearing. Had there been normal side bearing, the wood might not have let go. The side bearing is OK now in its shifted state.  I would remove the pins, epoxy and clamp and install plugs made from pin block scraps. Being careful to relocated the pins to their new position. That is, if it's not covered under warranty.

------------------------------
Regards,

Jon Page
mailto:jonpage@comcast.net
http://www.pianocapecod.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-27-2022 18:31
From: Chris Chernobieff
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Actually in the photo, the grain isn't parallel with the pins. And Jon alluded to severe sidebearing. But neither of these issues is the cause of what you see. Its simply that they used wood with a too low janka hardness. Even hard rock maple (which i believe is too low in janka hardness) doesn't tear like the wood in the photo did.
-chris

------------------------------
Chernobieff Piano Restorations
"Where Tone is Key, and Mammoths are not extinct."
865-986-7720 (text only please)

Original Message:
Sent: 08-26-2022 11:26
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Boston GP 178 #175447 PE

It seems like a really bad idea to have pins lined up along the woodgrain.

The University had also bought 2 Boston UP-118S at the same time.
On both of those many of the key tops came unglued.
They have started buying Yamahas again.

​

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------

Thank you for the responses. Advise well taken

------------------------------
Les Koltvedt
Marietta GA
lkpianos@gmail.com
https://www.lkpianos.com
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 09-01-2022 01:18
From: David Love
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Because of the proximity of the piano it was probably a couple of days before I got back there to put the strings back on and pull up the pitch. Epoxy does take a bit of time to cure and you want it fully cured and this is two-part epoxy which is slow setting so I would say at least 24 - 48 hours would be best. 

Get Outlook for iOS

Original Message:
Sent: 8/31/2022 9:50:00 AM
From: Leslie Koltvedt
Subject: RE: Boston Bridge Splitting

Question, approx how long before your able to restring. Do you schedule a return visit?

------------------------------
Les Koltvedt
Marietta GA
lkpianos@gmail.com
https://www.lkpianos.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-30-2022 01:18
From: David Love
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

I agree to keep it simple. 

1.  Remove the strings from the affected pins. Detach from the hitches only and move them to the side. 
2. Use a two part epoxy like West system with a medium density filleting blend. Use the faster catalyst. Mix it so it's just slightly runny, a bit thicker than honey so it doesn't run all over the place. It should be thin enough to inject with a glue injector but thick enough that it won't run freely. 
3. Using a glue injector with a fine tip inject the glue directly into the bridge pin holes. Remove them if necessary while you inject to capacity and replace the pins in the proper position. 
4. Use a couple of small C clamps to pull the cap back together but don't feel that you need to squeeze it together as you would using Titebond. Epoxy works better when there is some thickness to it. If the glue line is 1/32" or so wide (or even slightly wider) that's ok. 
5. Clamping should produce some squeeze out. Make sure it does. 
6. Using some dental tools and a small flat blade screwdriver, clean up the squeeze out. Be careful to clean all the excess from the top of the cap and from around the base of the pins and try and smooth the notch area. Use a magnifying glass if necessary. 
7. If you've made the epoxy thick enough it should hold its shape and not migrate or run but hang around long enough for it to start to cure and check it frequently adding small amounts of epoxy with the small screwdriver blade if needed. 
8. When you return after the epoxy is fully cured use some small files to do any final clean up around the pins and at the edge of the notches. Don't Nick the bridge pins with the file. A sharp very narrow chisel can be used as a scraper if needed.  You don't want any epoxy extending past the pin line or you'll get noise.  A small piece of 400 paper can be used to smooth the cap of any glue residue you may have missed. 
9. Using a graphite pencil or Dag touch up the bridge to blend the color back to the original as needed. 
10. Replace the strings and you're  on your way. 

Get Outlook for iOS

Original Message:
Sent: 8/29/2022 8:10:00 AM
From: Peter Grey
Subject: RE: Boston Bridge Splitting

If out of warranty the simplest fix would be to simply epoxy things together in their current configuration with no clamping (remove tension of course). Create a dam and fill it with thin epoxy with hypodermic needle. Done...not going anywhere.  KISS

Peter Grey Piano Doctor

------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-29-2022 07:17
From: Jon Page
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

The wood might be a weak point but if you notice the old string marks, You'll notice excessive side bearing. Had there been normal side bearing, the wood might not have let go. The side bearing is OK now in its shifted state.  I would remove the pins, epoxy and clamp and install plugs made from pin block scraps. Being careful to relocated the pins to their new position. That is, if it's not covered under warranty.

------------------------------
Regards,

Jon Page
mailto:jonpage@comcast.net
http://www.pianocapecod.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-27-2022 18:31
From: Chris Chernobieff
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Actually in the photo, the grain isn't parallel with the pins. And Jon alluded to severe sidebearing. But neither of these issues is the cause of what you see. Its simply that they used wood with a too low janka hardness. Even hard rock maple (which i believe is too low in janka hardness) doesn't tear like the wood in the photo did.
-chris

------------------------------
Chernobieff Piano Restorations
"Where Tone is Key, and Mammoths are not extinct."
865-986-7720 (text only please)

Original Message:
Sent: 08-26-2022 11:26
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Boston GP 178 #175447 PE

It seems like a really bad idea to have pins lined up along the woodgrain.

The University had also bought 2 Boston UP-118S at the same time.
On both of those many of the key tops came unglued.
They have started buying Yamahas again.

​

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------

Agree completely with David, and what an excellent description! This is exactly how I would do it. I've done several but David clearly has it down to a "T". I have used the filler for several repairs but getting the thickness just as he describes will definitely help me in future repairs.

------------------------------
Kevin Fortenberry
Registered Piano Technician
Longview, TX 75602
806-778-3962
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 08-30-2022 01:18
From: David Love
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

I agree to keep it simple. 

1.  Remove the strings from the affected pins. Detach from the hitches only and move them to the side. 
2. Use a two part epoxy like West system with a medium density filleting blend. Use the faster catalyst. Mix it so it's just slightly runny, a bit thicker than honey so it doesn't run all over the place. It should be thin enough to inject with a glue injector but thick enough that it won't run freely. 
3. Using a glue injector with a fine tip inject the glue directly into the bridge pin holes. Remove them if necessary while you inject to capacity and replace the pins in the proper position. 
4. Use a couple of small C clamps to pull the cap back together but don't feel that you need to squeeze it together as you would using Titebond. Epoxy works better when there is some thickness to it. If the glue line is 1/32" or so wide (or even slightly wider) that's ok. 
5. Clamping should produce some squeeze out. Make sure it does. 
6. Using some dental tools and a small flat blade screwdriver, clean up the squeeze out. Be careful to clean all the excess from the top of the cap and from around the base of the pins and try and smooth the notch area. Use a magnifying glass if necessary. 
7. If you've made the epoxy thick enough it should hold its shape and not migrate or run but hang around long enough for it to start to cure and check it frequently adding small amounts of epoxy with the small screwdriver blade if needed. 
8. When you return after the epoxy is fully cured use some small files to do any final clean up around the pins and at the edge of the notches. Don't Nick the bridge pins with the file. A sharp very narrow chisel can be used as a scraper if needed.  You don't want any epoxy extending past the pin line or you'll get noise.  A small piece of 400 paper can be used to smooth the cap of any glue residue you may have missed. 
9. Using a graphite pencil or Dag touch up the bridge to blend the color back to the original as needed. 
10. Replace the strings and you're  on your way. 

Get Outlook for iOS

Original Message:
Sent: 8/29/2022 8:10:00 AM
From: Peter Grey
Subject: RE: Boston Bridge Splitting

If out of warranty the simplest fix would be to simply epoxy things together in their current configuration with no clamping (remove tension of course). Create a dam and fill it with thin epoxy with hypodermic needle. Done...not going anywhere.  KISS

Peter Grey Piano Doctor

------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-29-2022 07:17
From: Jon Page
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

The wood might be a weak point but if you notice the old string marks, You'll notice excessive side bearing. Had there been normal side bearing, the wood might not have let go. The side bearing is OK now in its shifted state.  I would remove the pins, epoxy and clamp and install plugs made from pin block scraps. Being careful to relocated the pins to their new position. That is, if it's not covered under warranty.

------------------------------
Regards,

Jon Page
mailto:jonpage@comcast.net
http://www.pianocapecod.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-27-2022 18:31
From: Chris Chernobieff
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Actually in the photo, the grain isn't parallel with the pins. And Jon alluded to severe sidebearing. But neither of these issues is the cause of what you see. Its simply that they used wood with a too low janka hardness. Even hard rock maple (which i believe is too low in janka hardness) doesn't tear like the wood in the photo did.
-chris

------------------------------
Chernobieff Piano Restorations
"Where Tone is Key, and Mammoths are not extinct."
865-986-7720 (text only please)

Original Message:
Sent: 08-26-2022 11:26
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Boston GP 178 #175447 PE

It seems like a really bad idea to have pins lined up along the woodgrain.

The University had also bought 2 Boston UP-118S at the same time.
On both of those many of the key tops came unglued.
They have started buying Yamahas again.

​

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------

Thanks for the insight everyone.
I believe the piano is from 2012 with a 10 year warranty.
It is a weird account where I only do the tuning at the beginning of the semesters and they hired another company to do the maintenance, repairs and install Dampp-Chasers.
I let the person over the piano accounts know and encouraged them to submit a warranty claim ASAP.

I am more interested to learn why it split on such a new piano. (Not that I am going to be replacing bridges any time soon)
From what I could see the grain runs almost but not quite parallel to the pins. On many other pianos I have observed that the grain often runs more diagonally. 

The other thing I wonder about is, I like Steinway and I like Kawai. But I haven't had good success with Boston. Is that just the batch of pianos I happen to be working with? Or do they have some bugs to work out in working together?


------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 08-26-2022 11:26
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Boston GP 178 #175447 PE

It seems like a really bad idea to have pins lined up along the woodgrain.

​

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------

I have seen this exact problem years ago on a Young Chang Pramberger, and maybe more than once.  It was in a church, but I don't know i how it was repaired or by whom.  Definitely a warrantee condition which we (the store) took care of.  Somehow.  I wasn't about to make an epoxy repair, not knowing if it would be successful or not.  Not Steinway related (unless you count Mr. Pramberger's former employer), and not Kawai-built, but sure looks the same.

------------------------------
Paul McCloud, RPT
Accutone Piano Service
www.AccutonePianoService.com
pavadasa@gmail.com
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 08-27-2022 19:30
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Thanks for the insight everyone.
I believe the piano is from 2012 with a 10 year warranty.
It is a weird account where I only do the tuning at the beginning of the semesters and they hired another company to do the maintenance, repairs and install Dampp-Chasers.
I let the person over the piano accounts know and encouraged them to submit a warranty claim ASAP.

I am more interested to learn why it split on such a new piano. (Not that I am going to be replacing bridges any time soon)
From what I could see the grain runs almost but not quite parallel to the pins. On many other pianos I have observed that the grain often runs more diagonally.

The other thing I wonder about is, I like Steinway and I like Kawai. But I haven't had good success with Boston. Is that just the batch of pianos I happen to be working with? Or do they have some bugs to work out in working together?


------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385

Original Message:
Sent: 08-26-2022 11:26
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Boston GP 178 #175447 PE

It seems like a really bad idea to have pins lined up along the woodgrain.

​

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 8/27/2022 11:00:00 PM
From: Paul McCloud
Subject: RE: Boston Bridge Splitting

I have seen this exact problem years ago on a Young Chang Pramberger, and maybe more than once.  It was in a church, but I don't know i how it was repaired or by whom.  Definitely a warrantee condition which we (the store) took care of.  Somehow.  I wasn't about to make an epoxy repair, not knowing if it would be successful or not.  Not Steinway related (unless you count Mr. Pramberger's former employer), and not Kawai-built, but sure looks the same.

------------------------------
Paul McCloud, RPT
Accutone Piano Service
www.AccutonePianoService.com
pavadasa@gmail.com
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 08-27-2022 19:30
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Thanks for the insight everyone.
I believe the piano is from 2012 with a 10 year warranty.
It is a weird account where I only do the tuning at the beginning of the semesters and they hired another company to do the maintenance, repairs and install Dampp-Chasers.
I let the person over the piano accounts know and encouraged them to submit a warranty claim ASAP.

I am more interested to learn why it split on such a new piano. (Not that I am going to be replacing bridges any time soon)
From what I could see the grain runs almost but not quite parallel to the pins. On many other pianos I have observed that the grain often runs more diagonally.

The other thing I wonder about is, I like Steinway and I like Kawai. But I haven't had good success with Boston. Is that just the batch of pianos I happen to be working with? Or do they have some bugs to work out in working together?


------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385

Original Message:
Sent: 08-26-2022 11:26
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Boston GP 178 #175447 PE

It seems like a really bad idea to have pins lined up along the woodgrain.

​

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------

David 

I did the exact same repair on the same model 225 about 5 years ago. Holding fine.

Peter Grey Piano Doctor

------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 08-28-2022 01:39
From: David Love
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

I made a similar such a repair on a Bos 225 several years ago and it held up just fine. I used west system epoxy with some filleting blend. I took the strings off in the section pulled the loose pins out and pulled the bridge back together with some clamps rather gently and reinserted the bridge pins before things were cured after cleaning up the epoxy.  Some fine dental tools were helpful.  It's now probably 15 years later and it's holding just fine and you really can't even see the repair.  Of course if this is under warranty you might want to approach it with that in mind.

It's not that difficult a repair if you're patient and careful. As to why it happened it's hard to know but it might simply be that the bridge cap material wasn't properly dried. The grain angle is likely not the problem.

Get Outlook for iOS

Original Message:
Sent: 8/27/2022 11:00:00 PM
From: Paul McCloud
Subject: RE: Boston Bridge Splitting

I have seen this exact problem years ago on a Young Chang Pramberger, and maybe more than once.  It was in a church, but I don't know i how it was repaired or by whom.  Definitely a warrantee condition which we (the store) took care of.  Somehow.  I wasn't about to make an epoxy repair, not knowing if it would be successful or not.  Not Steinway related (unless you count Mr. Pramberger's former employer), and not Kawai-built, but sure looks the same.

------------------------------
Paul McCloud, RPT
Accutone Piano Service
www.AccutonePianoService.com
pavadasa@gmail.com

Original Message:
Sent: 08-27-2022 19:30
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Thanks for the insight everyone.
I believe the piano is from 2012 with a 10 year warranty.
It is a weird account where I only do the tuning at the beginning of the semesters and they hired another company to do the maintenance, repairs and install Dampp-Chasers.
I let the person over the piano accounts know and encouraged them to submit a warranty claim ASAP.

I am more interested to learn why it split on such a new piano. (Not that I am going to be replacing bridges any time soon)
From what I could see the grain runs almost but not quite parallel to the pins. On many other pianos I have observed that the grain often runs more diagonally.

The other thing I wonder about is, I like Steinway and I like Kawai. But I haven't had good success with Boston. Is that just the batch of pianos I happen to be working with? Or do they have some bugs to work out in working together?


------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385

Original Message:
Sent: 08-26-2022 11:26
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Boston GP 178 #175447 PE

It seems like a really bad idea to have pins lined up along the woodgrain.

​

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------

If it is out of warranty you could try removing the strings in that area, clamping and gluing the crack (I personally use Titebond) and after it is dry, and if you have adequate access, drill the bridge from the side and glue in a dowell or two (a hammer shank might work), then trim it flush.
This has worked for me.
I have also installed a machine bolt through the bridge, but only on spinets where it won't show.

------------------------------
Blaine Hebert RPT
Duarte CA
(626) 795-5170
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 08-26-2022 11:26
From: Gannon Rhinehart
Subject: Boston Bridge Splitting

Boston GP 178 #175447 PE

It seems like a really bad idea to have pins lined up along the woodgrain.

​

------------------------------
Gannon Rhinehart
Santa Fe NM
(505) 692-8385
------------------------------