CAUT

Replacing hammers on a D, and needs to happen quickly.  What's the best way to remove D hammers, keeping the flange & shank.
What kind of the glue does the factory use?  Will using a heat gun help?
I've always used the typical plyer hammer extractors, but those can be forceful sometimes.  And doing a whole set can be harmful.  



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Dave Foster, RPT
Michigan State University
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Dave, SOME hear will definitely help. Use a heat gun focussing on the hammer of course, not the shank. They should pop off pretty easily with the extracting tool. You may only be able to warm up and remove 3 or 4 at a time, but you will get the feel for that. It's most likely Hyde glue but even if it's not-this should still work just fine. 

You mentioned "the fastest way"… the fastest way is probably using diagonal side cutters making a split at the tail of each hammer. I used to do this a lot back when I was replacing more hammers. Sometimes it takes a couple of cuts/splits depending on how the wood splits. They usually pop off super fast this way but you still need a little heat. YMMV. 
I'm sure others will chime in. 

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Kevin Fortenberry
Registered Piano Technician
Longview, TX 75602
806-778-3962
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Original Message:
Sent: 12/7/2022 10:29:00 AM
From: Wim Blees
Subject: RE: D hammer removal

Dave

There is no easy or fast way to remove hammers from shanks. Not only do I remove one hammer at a time with the pliers you use, I take off all the shanks and flanges from the rail. It is my opinion that removing the hammers from the shanks with the flanges still attached to the rail puts too much side pressure on the centers. 

Wim

Hi Dave, 

I second Kevin's suggestion -- using a heat gun on 1-4 hammers at a time, then plucking them off with an hammer extractor plier. At least on the Hamburg grands, that method works well and it is very fast. I haven't timed myself, but 10-15 minutes? In that ballpark. 

I used to share Wims concerns, but when I started using the heat gun I found that the whole procedure can be done without stressing the centers. With the right amount of heat applied, the hammer heads come off very easily; so easily, in fact, that you can stabilize the center with one hand and use the hammer extractor plier with the other, if you prefer.

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Patrick Wingren, RPTRPT
Jakobstad, Finland
0035844-5288048
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A heat gun is efficient and fast. Heat the joint from the top and bottom.  Keep the heat gun moving. Don't burn the shanks. A regular pair of extractor pliers is all you need. You can often do one full section at a time, certainly half, it doesn't matter what kind of glue. After the hammers are off heat the glue residue until it's  crispy (don't burn the shank) and clean off the shank end with a poorly named "shank reducer" (don't reduce the shank).

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David Love RPT
www.davidlovepianos.com
davidlovepianos@comcast.net
415 407 8320
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Yes I completely agree with the heating of the heads exactly as David Love has perfectly described-using this method I have never had a shank split, although I agree with Fred that it's always a very slight risk if using the cutters. But again once the glue joint is warm/hot..the hammers just come right off without any real stress to the center pin at all. Best wishes!

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Kevin Fortenberry
Registered Piano Technician
Longview, TX 75602
806-778-3962
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Original Message:
Sent: 12-08-2022 21:41
From: David Love
Subject: D hammer removal

A heat gun is efficient and fast. Heat the joint from the top and bottom.  Keep the heat gun moving. Don't burn the shanks. A regular pair of extractor pliers is all you need. You can often do one full section at a time, certainly half, it doesn't matter what kind of glue. After the hammers are off heat the glue residue until it's  crispy (don't burn the shank) and clean off the shank end with a poorly named "shank reducer" (don't reduce the shank).

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David Love RPT
www.davidlovepianos.com
davidlovepianos@comcast.net
415 407 8320
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I typically split the hammers off with diagonal cutting pliars, but I have extracted hammers that I needed to save using a punch.
I made an anvil out of a wood block in a vise with a hammer shank sized hole (oversized) and used a punch made from an appropriately large nail filed flat.  This worked well to remove the hammers, but in that case I broke off the shanks.
The same technique could be done with a slotted or notched anvil without harming the shanks.  In the case of hammers with an angle you could make the anvil out of a hardwood with an appropriate bevel.

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Blaine Hebert RPT
Duarte CA
(626) 795-5170
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Original Message:
Sent: 12/9/2022 12:54:00 AM
From: Blaine Hebert
Subject: RE: D hammer removal

I typically split the hammers off with diagonal cutting pliars, but I have extracted hammers that I needed to save using a punch.
I made an anvil out of a wood block in a vise with a hammer shank sized hole (oversized) and used a punch made from an appropriately large nail filed flat.  This worked well to remove the hammers, but in that case I broke off the shanks.
The same technique could be done with a slotted or notched anvil without harming the shanks.  In the case of hammers with an angle you could make the anvil out of a hardwood with an appropriate bevel.

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Blaine Hebert RPT
Duarte CA
(626) 795-5170
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