Pianotech

PianoTek Supply had been selling it, perhaps Schaff has some in stock. I think the last time I bought one I searched for it with the manufacturer's name, and found a better price either on Amazon or eBay. 

------------------------------
Patrick Draine RPT
Billerica MA
(978) 663-9690
------------------------------

The OEM dimmer for that item is the Leviton #6250-3 or 6250-3i in line dimmer. I know because I am the original developer and maker. You can buy the dimmer on Amazon for around $20 or so.  Be sure to get the polarity correct when you wire it. 

Edit: I just now read the full OP. If the dimmer you got does as you say, it is defective and should be replaced (or perhaps the polarity is incorrect). 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-26-2024 19:26
From: Patrick Draine
Subject: Dimmer for Key Easing Iron

PianoTek Supply had been selling it, perhaps Schaff has some in stock. I think the last time I bought one I searched for it with the manufacturer's name, and found a better price either on Amazon or eBay. 

------------------------------
Patrick Draine RPT
Billerica MA
(978) 663-9690

What do you mean by "Be sure to get the polarity correct"? The Weller soldering tool has non-polarized plugs (it can be plugged either way into a wall outlet). So how does installing the polarity correctly change anything?

The OEM dimmer for that item is the Leviton #6250-3 or 6250-3i in line dimmer. I know because I am the original developer and maker. You can buy the dimmer on Amazon for around $20 or so.  Be sure to get the polarity correct when you wire it. 

Edit: I just now read the full OP. If the dimmer you got does as you say, it is defective and should be replaced (or perhaps the polarity is incorrect). 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com


Original Message:
Sent: 09-26-2024 19:26
From: Patrick Draine
Subject: Dimmer for Key Easing Iron

PianoTek Supply had been selling it, perhaps Schaff has some in stock. I think the last time I bought one I searched for it with the manufacturer's name, and found a better price either on Amazon or eBay. 

------------------------------
Patrick Draine RPT
Billerica MA
(978) 663-9690

Cobrun,

Looking at the cord (e.g., lamp cord), one of the wire's insulation is "ribbed" while the other is smooth. The ribbed one is the neutral wire and (obviously) the smooth one is the "hot" (or load) wire. When wiring a dimmer such as the 6250 you do not cut the neutral (ribbed) wire, but rather cut the hot wire and connect it to the screws.

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

What do you mean by "Be sure to get the polarity correct"? The Weller soldering tool has non-polarized plugs (it can be plugged either way into a wall outlet). So how does installing the polarity correctly change anything?

The OEM dimmer for that item is the Leviton #6250-3 or 6250-3i in line dimmer. I know because I am the original developer and maker. You can buy the dimmer on Amazon for around $20 or so.  Be sure to get the polarity correct when you wire it. 

Edit: I just now read the full OP. If the dimmer you got does as you say, it is defective and should be replaced (or perhaps the polarity is incorrect). 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com

Original Message:
Sent: 9/29/2024 8:31:00 AM
From: Peter Grey
Subject: RE: Dimmer for Key Easing Iron

Cobrun,

Looking at the cord (e.g., lamp cord), one of the wire's insulation is "ribbed" while the other is smooth. The ribbed one is the neutral wire and (obviously) the smooth one is the "hot" (or load) wire. When wiring a dimmer such as the 6250 you do not cut the neutral (ribbed) wire, but rather cut the hot wire and connect it to the screws.

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-28-2024 18:29
From: Cobrun Sells
Subject: Dimmer for Key Easing Iron

What do you mean by "Be sure to get the polarity correct"? The Weller soldering tool has non-polarized plugs (it can be plugged either way into a wall outlet). So how does installing the polarity correctly change anything?

------------------------------
Cobrun Sells
cobrun94@yahoo.com


Original Message:
Sent: 09-26-2024 20:05
From: Peter Grey
Subject: Dimmer for Key Easing Iron

The OEM dimmer for that item is the Leviton #6250-3 or 6250-3i in line dimmer. I know because I am the original developer and maker. You can buy the dimmer on Amazon for around $20 or so.  Be sure to get the polarity correct when you wire it. 

Edit: I just now read the full OP. If the dimmer you got does as you say, it is defective and should be replaced (or perhaps the polarity is incorrect). 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com


Original Message:
Sent: 09-26-2024 19:26
From: Patrick Draine
Subject: Dimmer for Key Easing Iron

PianoTek Supply had been selling it, perhaps Schaff has some in stock. I think the last time I bought one I searched for it with the manufacturer's name, and found a better price either on Amazon or eBay. 

------------------------------
Patrick Draine RPT
Billerica MA
(978) 663-9690

PianoTek Supply had been selling it, perhaps Schaff has some in stock. I think the last time I bought one I searched for it with the manufacturer's name, and found a better price either on Amazon or eBay. 

https://www.mohawk-finishing.com/products/wood-touch-up-repair/burn-ins/burn-in-knife-electric-heat-control-unit/

I have another version of this that I've used for decades.  Apparently you need a customer number to purchase from Mohawk online.  There is a local hardware store that sells Mohawk products, so I don't need a customer number.

I use a router speed control from Harbor Freight  around  $16

https://www.mohawk-finishing.com/products/wood-touch-up-repair/burn-ins/burn-in-knife-electric-heat-control-unit/

I have another version of this that I've used for decades.  Apparently you need a customer number to purchase from Mohawk online.  There is a local hardware store that sells Mohawk products, so I don't need a customer number.

I use the same one as Parker and it seems plenty accurate for our use. (Precision electronic soldering is another matter and I use a completely different iron setup for that.) Using an infrared thermometer to check the settings and mark them on the dial helps with accuracy as different soldering irons have different heat curves. 

Regards,

I use a router speed control from Harbor Freight  around  $16

https://www.mohawk-finishing.com/products/wood-touch-up-repair/burn-ins/burn-in-knife-electric-heat-control-unit/

I have another version of this that I've used for decades.  Apparently you need a customer number to purchase from Mohawk online.  There is a local hardware store that sells Mohawk products, so I don't need a customer number.

Sometimes I wish I had a heavier duty 20 or 25 amp controller.  They are more expensive but will allow a lower temp.  Move quickly to avoid

burning and do not use more than a 25 watt iron.

I use the same one as Parker and it seems plenty accurate for our use. (Precision electronic soldering is another matter and I use a completely different iron setup for that.) Using an infrared thermometer to check the settings and mark them on the dial helps with accuracy as different soldering irons have different heat curves. 

Regards,

I use a router speed control from Harbor Freight  around  $16

Overkill. What happens when you tell your electrical engineer dad that you need a rheostat.

Deb Legg

Sometimes I wish I had a heavier duty 20 or 25 amp controller.  They are more expensive but will allow a lower temp.  Move quickly to avoid

burning and do not use more than a 25 watt iron.

I use the same one as Parker and it seems plenty accurate for our use. (Precision electronic soldering is another matter and I use a completely different iron setup for that.) Using an infrared thermometer to check the settings and mark them on the dial helps with accuracy as different soldering irons have different heat curves. 

Regards,

I use a router speed control from Harbor Freight  around  $16

https://www.mohawk-finishing.com/products/wood-touch-up-repair/burn-ins/burn-in-knife-electric-heat-control-unit/

I have another version of this that I've used for decades.  Apparently you need a customer number to purchase from Mohawk online.  There is a local hardware store that sells Mohawk products, so I don't need a customer number.

Cobrun, I just want to concur with Wim's comments – I keep a key easing pliers in my case.

Mostly my customers might only have a few (white) keys that are noticeably sticking. Excuse me if this is obvious, but 90+ percent of the time if you work those few keys up/down, with a little side pressure, it "fixes" the problem without major surgery. I explain all to my customer, including showing them how to work the key up/down themselves if the stickiness returns. I've never had a customer be dissatisfied with this approach. Along with a minimal or no charge for the few minutes of work, chalk it up to establishing customer loyalty. Regards, Norman.

------------------------------
Norman Brickman
Potomac Piano Service
Potomac, Maryland
potomacpiano@verizon.net
https://potomacpiano.com
(301) 983.9321
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-28-2024 10:43
From: Debra Legg
Subject: Dimmer for Key Easing Iron

Overkill. What happens when you tell your electrical engineer dad that you need a rheostat.

Deb Legg

Original Message:
Sent: 9/27/2024 5:32:00 PM
From: Parker Leigh
Subject: RE: Dimmer for Key Easing Iron

Sometimes I wish I had a heavier duty 20 or 25 amp controller.  They are more expensive but will allow a lower temp.  Move quickly to avoid

burning and do not use more than a 25 watt iron.

------------------------------
Parker Leigh RPT
Winchester VA
(540) 722-3865


Original Message:
Sent: 09-27-2024 11:19
From: Allan Gilreath
Subject: Dimmer for Key Easing Iron

I use the same one as Parker and it seems plenty accurate for our use. (Precision electronic soldering is another matter and I use a completely different iron setup for that.) Using an infrared thermometer to check the settings and mark them on the dial helps with accuracy as different soldering irons have different heat curves. 

Regards,

------------------------------
Allan Gilreath, RPT
Registered Piano Technician & President
Allan Gilreath & Associates, Inc
Calhoun, GA
706-602-7667
allan@allangilreath.com - www.allangilreath.com


Original Message:
Sent: 09-27-2024 09:33
From: Parker Leigh
Subject: Dimmer for Key Easing Iron

I use a router speed control from Harbor Freight  around  $16

------------------------------
Parker Leigh RPT
Winchester VA
(540) 722-3865


Original Message:
Sent: 09-27-2024 08:10
From: Paul McCloud
Subject: Dimmer for Key Easing Iron

https://www.mohawk-finishing.com/products/wood-touch-up-repair/burn-ins/burn-in-knife-electric-heat-control-unit/

I have another version of this that I've used for decades.  Apparently you need a customer number to purchase from Mohawk online.  There is a local hardware store that sells Mohawk products, so I don't need a customer number.

------------------------------
Paul McCloud, RPT
Accutone Piano Service
www.AccutonePianoService.com
pavadasa@gmail.com

BTW, if you are using the original tapered breaches with this thing (or even modified key bushing cauls), you want the tip temperature to be just warm enough so that you can't hold your fingers on it fir more than about 1-2 seconds max. 

Now, if someone were to go the extra mile and machine a short broach (or set thereof) on a right angle to fit the iron, one would have a tool that would likely effectively be able to address grand front bushings without having to remove them. (I should have thought of that a long time ago).

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com
------------------------------


Original Message:
Sent: 09-28-2024 11:45
From: Norman Brickman
Subject: Dimmer for Key Easing Iron

Cobrun, I just want to concur with Wim's comments – I keep a key easing pliers in my case.

Mostly my customers might only have a few (white) keys that are noticeably sticking. Excuse me if this is obvious, but 90+ percent of the time if you work those few keys up/down, with a little side pressure, it "fixes" the problem without major surgery. I explain all to my customer, including showing them how to work the key up/down themselves if the stickiness returns. I've never had a customer be dissatisfied with this approach. Along with a minimal or no charge for the few minutes of work, chalk it up to establishing customer loyalty. Regards, Norman.

------------------------------
Norman Brickman
Potomac Piano Service
Potomac, Maryland
potomacpiano@verizon.net
https://potomacpiano.com
(301) 983.9321


Original Message:
Sent: 09-28-2024 10:43
From: Debra Legg
Subject: Dimmer for Key Easing Iron

Overkill. What happens when you tell your electrical engineer dad that you need a rheostat.

Deb Legg

Original Message:
Sent: 9/27/2024 5:32:00 PM
From: Parker Leigh
Subject: RE: Dimmer for Key Easing Iron

Sometimes I wish I had a heavier duty 20 or 25 amp controller.  They are more expensive but will allow a lower temp.  Move quickly to avoid

burning and do not use more than a 25 watt iron.

------------------------------
Parker Leigh RPT
Winchester VA
(540) 722-3865


Original Message:
Sent: 09-27-2024 11:19
From: Allan Gilreath
Subject: Dimmer for Key Easing Iron

I use the same one as Parker and it seems plenty accurate for our use. (Precision electronic soldering is another matter and I use a completely different iron setup for that.) Using an infrared thermometer to check the settings and mark them on the dial helps with accuracy as different soldering irons have different heat curves. 

Regards,

------------------------------
Allan Gilreath, RPT
Registered Piano Technician & President
Allan Gilreath & Associates, Inc
Calhoun, GA
706-602-7667
allan@allangilreath.com - www.allangilreath.com


Original Message:
Sent: 09-27-2024 09:33
From: Parker Leigh
Subject: Dimmer for Key Easing Iron

I use a router speed control from Harbor Freight  around  $16

------------------------------
Parker Leigh RPT
Winchester VA
(540) 722-3865


Original Message:
Sent: 09-27-2024 08:10
From: Paul McCloud
Subject: Dimmer for Key Easing Iron

https://www.mohawk-finishing.com/products/wood-touch-up-repair/burn-ins/burn-in-knife-electric-heat-control-unit/

I have another version of this that I've used for decades.  Apparently you need a customer number to purchase from Mohawk online.  There is a local hardware store that sells Mohawk products, so I don't need a customer number.

------------------------------
Paul McCloud, RPT
Accutone Piano Service
www.AccutonePianoService.com
pavadasa@gmail.com

Cobrun, I just want to concur with Wim's comments – I keep a key easing pliers in my case.

Mostly my customers might only have a few (white) keys that are noticeably sticking. Excuse me if this is obvious, but 90+ percent of the time if you work those few keys up/down, with a little side pressure, it "fixes" the problem without major surgery. I explain all to my customer, including showing them how to work the key up/down themselves if the stickiness returns. I've never had a customer be dissatisfied with this approach. Along with a minimal or no charge for the few minutes of work, chalk it up to establishing customer loyalty. Regards, Norman.

Overkill. What happens when you tell your electrical engineer dad that you need a rheostat.

Deb Legg

Sometimes I wish I had a heavier duty 20 or 25 amp controller.  They are more expensive but will allow a lower temp.  Move quickly to avoid

burning and do not use more than a 25 watt iron.

I use the same one as Parker and it seems plenty accurate for our use. (Precision electronic soldering is another matter and I use a completely different iron setup for that.) Using an infrared thermometer to check the settings and mark them on the dial helps with accuracy as different soldering irons have different heat curves. 

Regards,

I use a router speed control from Harbor Freight  around  $16

https://www.mohawk-finishing.com/products/wood-touch-up-repair/burn-ins/burn-in-knife-electric-heat-control-unit/

I have another version of this that I've used for decades.  Apparently you need a customer number to purchase from Mohawk online.  There is a local hardware store that sells Mohawk products, so I don't need a customer number.

Norman, in my 45 years experience, wiggling and rubbing keys up & down is (here in our New England seasons)  a very temporary fix. Sometimes depending on key easing pliers is an impermanent fix too. Remove the fallboard and key up stop rail, and see what's really going on.The key pins may have rust or burrs, or need sticky tarnish removed. Iron the bushings, and possibly dust some fine powder teflon on if advisable. 

I have also run into Baldwin uprights from the 1980s that have excessively long balance &/or front rail bushings. An Exacto knife with a chisel blade can trim them to length.

Having all the necessary tools on hand allows one to deal with these common problems. 

Cobrun, I just want to concur with Wim's comments – I keep a key easing pliers in my case.

Mostly my customers might only have a few (white) keys that are noticeably sticking. Excuse me if this is obvious, but 90+ percent of the time if you work those few keys up/down, with a little side pressure, it "fixes" the problem without major surgery. I explain all to my customer, including showing them how to work the key up/down themselves if the stickiness returns. I've never had a customer be dissatisfied with this approach. Along with a minimal or no charge for the few minutes of work, chalk it up to establishing customer loyalty. Regards, Norman.

Overkill. What happens when you tell your electrical engineer dad that you need a rheostat.

Deb Legg

Sometimes I wish I had a heavier duty 20 or 25 amp controller.  They are more expensive but will allow a lower temp.  Move quickly to avoid

burning and do not use more than a 25 watt iron.

I use the same one as Parker and it seems plenty accurate for our use. (Precision electronic soldering is another matter and I use a completely different iron setup for that.) Using an infrared thermometer to check the settings and mark them on the dial helps with accuracy as different soldering irons have different heat curves. 

Regards,

I use a router speed control from Harbor Freight  around  $16

https://www.mohawk-finishing.com/products/wood-touch-up-repair/burn-ins/burn-in-knife-electric-heat-control-unit/

I have another version of this that I've used for decades.  Apparently you need a customer number to purchase from Mohawk online.  There is a local hardware store that sells Mohawk products, so I don't need a customer number.

Patrick, thanks, maybe you are right – just not my experience with most (90+ percent) front rail pin bushing tightness issues. Mine is the same time frame as you, but likely not the depth of your experience. A solid push left and up/down several times, and then a solid push right with the same motion. (Don't test how strong you are!) You can feel the free play open up. No callbacks on my end – perhaps just luck? Maybe the DC climate? Also the problem probably usually develops from a lack of play at the extremes, and if the piano is newly back in service normal play should keep it free. Some pianos more so than others can be a pain to remove the keys, of course – this approach can certainly be worth a first try in my opinion. Regards, Norman 

Norman, in my 45 years experience, wiggling and rubbing keys up & down is (here in our New England seasons)  a very temporary fix. Sometimes depending on key easing pliers is an impermanent fix too. Remove the fallboard and key up stop rail, and see what's really going on.The key pins may have rust or burrs, or need sticky tarnish removed. Iron the bushings, and possibly dust some fine powder teflon on if advisable. 

I have also run into Baldwin uprights from the 1980s that have excessively long balance &/or front rail bushings. An Exacto knife with a chisel blade can trim them to length.

Having all the necessary tools on hand allows one to deal with these common problems. 

Cobrun, I just want to concur with Wim's comments – I keep a key easing pliers in my case.

Mostly my customers might only have a few (white) keys that are noticeably sticking. Excuse me if this is obvious, but 90+ percent of the time if you work those few keys up/down, with a little side pressure, it "fixes" the problem without major surgery. I explain all to my customer, including showing them how to work the key up/down themselves if the stickiness returns. I've never had a customer be dissatisfied with this approach. Along with a minimal or no charge for the few minutes of work, chalk it up to establishing customer loyalty. Regards, Norman.

Overkill. What happens when you tell your electrical engineer dad that you need a rheostat.

Deb Legg

Sometimes I wish I had a heavier duty 20 or 25 amp controller.  They are more expensive but will allow a lower temp.  Move quickly to avoid

burning and do not use more than a 25 watt iron.

I use the same one as Parker and it seems plenty accurate for our use. (Precision electronic soldering is another matter and I use a completely different iron setup for that.) Using an infrared thermometer to check the settings and mark them on the dial helps with accuracy as different soldering irons have different heat curves. 

Regards,

I use a router speed control from Harbor Freight  around  $16

https://www.mohawk-finishing.com/products/wood-touch-up-repair/burn-ins/burn-in-knife-electric-heat-control-unit/

I have another version of this that I've used for decades.  Apparently you need a customer number to purchase from Mohawk online.  There is a local hardware store that sells Mohawk products, so I don't need a customer number.

Cobrun, FYI, I think that the 110 volt polarized plug came into use more than 50 years ago, and later came the additional ground prong. I'm not licensed or certified to give electrical advice, but as an amateur I can think of a few items that you might want to look into.

(a) For a plain key easing iron with no on/off switch, I would think that plug polarity is not significant. (b) If your iron or rheostat has an on/off switch, then from a safety perspective I would assume that the hot wire (small prong on the plug) would be connected to the switch side of the device. (c) If the device has a chassis associated with it then I assume that any modern device will use a three-prong plug to make a ground available.

Regards, Norman

Patrick, thanks, maybe you are right – just not my experience with most (90+ percent) front rail pin bushing tightness issues. Mine is the same time frame as you, but likely not the depth of your experience. A solid push left and up/down several times, and then a solid push right with the same motion. (Don't test how strong you are!) You can feel the free play open up. No callbacks on my end – perhaps just luck? Maybe the DC climate? Also the problem probably usually develops from a lack of play at the extremes, and if the piano is newly back in service normal play should keep it free. Some pianos more so than others can be a pain to remove the keys, of course – this approach can certainly be worth a first try in my opinion. Regards, Norman 

Norman, in my 45 years experience, wiggling and rubbing keys up & down is (here in our New England seasons)  a very temporary fix. Sometimes depending on key easing pliers is an impermanent fix too. Remove the fallboard and key up stop rail, and see what's really going on.The key pins may have rust or burrs, or need sticky tarnish removed. Iron the bushings, and possibly dust some fine powder teflon on if advisable. 

I have also run into Baldwin uprights from the 1980s that have excessively long balance &/or front rail bushings. An Exacto knife with a chisel blade can trim them to length.

Having all the necessary tools on hand allows one to deal with these common problems. 

Cobrun, I just want to concur with Wim's comments – I keep a key easing pliers in my case.

Mostly my customers might only have a few (white) keys that are noticeably sticking. Excuse me if this is obvious, but 90+ percent of the time if you work those few keys up/down, with a little side pressure, it "fixes" the problem without major surgery. I explain all to my customer, including showing them how to work the key up/down themselves if the stickiness returns. I've never had a customer be dissatisfied with this approach. Along with a minimal or no charge for the few minutes of work, chalk it up to establishing customer loyalty. Regards, Norman.

Overkill. What happens when you tell your electrical engineer dad that you need a rheostat.

Deb Legg

Sometimes I wish I had a heavier duty 20 or 25 amp controller.  They are more expensive but will allow a lower temp.  Move quickly to avoid

burning and do not use more than a 25 watt iron.

I use the same one as Parker and it seems plenty accurate for our use. (Precision electronic soldering is another matter and I use a completely different iron setup for that.) Using an infrared thermometer to check the settings and mark them on the dial helps with accuracy as different soldering irons have different heat curves. 

Regards,

I use a router speed control from Harbor Freight  around  $16

https://www.mohawk-finishing.com/products/wood-touch-up-repair/burn-ins/burn-in-knife-electric-heat-control-unit/

I have another version of this that I've used for decades.  Apparently you need a customer number to purchase from Mohawk online.  There is a local hardware store that sells Mohawk products, so I don't need a customer number.