All the elbow jobs that I run across nowadays--there are few left out there--have a mixture of some very brittle and other still malleable elbows. I suspect the original formulation was not stirred sufficiently. I usually snap off the body of the elbow first, then remove the hangar wires from the back of the keys. Turn the remaining stubs of the elbow so the broken bit is pointing back and the rounded tip is facing you. Use a small vise grip with needle nose jaws to crush the remnant still on the wippen flange center. If it doesn't crumble don't persevere. If it's soft enough it will merely expand outward cracking the thin sides of the wippen. Using a soldering iron with a small chisel point tip, burn into the tip of the elbow right through to the center pin then grip it and pull it off the pin. That old plastic melts quite easily.
It's usually easy to crush the remains of the elbow still clinging to the hangar wire. A few may need to be spun off.
There are some devices they used to sell to spin on the new elbows. A simple substitute is to firmly clip a larger size vise grip to the hanger wire about an inch or so above the where the old elbow was mounted. Holding the new elbow in one hand and grasping the hangar wire at the other end just below the adjusting nut, use the weight of the vise grip to spin on the new elbow. It goes quite fast.
Before you mount the new elbows, measure a few samples of the old ones to gauge the average distance between the adjusting nut and the top of the elbow. This will get you in the ballpark for adjusting lost motion.
One last tip. The Jaras substitute elbows are great but occasionally you'll run across one where the jaws are a bit to tight to allow you to squeeze the elbow onto the wippen center pin with that satisfying little ka-thunk that tells you it's seated. For this reason I always carry a point file in my bag of elbows. A point file is the small file that was commonly used back in the day to dress the "points" in the distributor of a car. You'll find them a dime a dozen at any swap meet. They also work perfectly to file down the gap in those balky elbows. I believe this is standard but mine is double sided with a thickness of .044"
You can do all this without removing the action from the piano, but if you're new to it you'd best take it back to the shop till you have some experience. A pair of parallel pliers will help to avoid any collateral damage to the wippen when cracking off the old elbows.
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Cecil Snyder RPT
Torrance CA
(310) 542-7108
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Original Message:
Sent: 07-18-2023 12:18
From: Keith Roberts
Subject: Elbow removal and replacement
Yes, grind down the pliers so you don't spread the flanges and crack the wood. I have a electric strippers that have a plier end for looping electric wire. They are already narrow enough. I have broken a wippen before so be careful.
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Keith Roberts
owner
Hathaway Pines CA
(209) 770-4312
Original Message:
Sent: 07-17-2023 13:34
From: James Kelly
Subject: Elbow removal and replacement
I am about to replace the elbows on a Wintert Spinet which is a family heirloom . I have the clear elbow replacement that snap on the center pin of the whippen.
The problem is how do i get the toe of the old elbow off since the pin goes through the toe. I am thinking I can use a Dremel with a plastic cutting disc and set the depth of the cut on the cutting shield.I would make a cut that stops short of the pin and then apply some heat from a heat gun. Does anyone have a tip/technique such as using a plastic cutting plier , shears.
Perhaps I should just repin with new center pins ?????
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James Kelly
Owner- Fur Elise Piano Service
Pawleys Island SC
(843) 325-4357
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