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Loose Ribs

  • 1.  Loose Ribs

    Posted 12-27-2023 10:40

    I have a Kawai grand in the shop with loose ribs. There are no soundboard cracks; just several ribs partially unglued in spots. The "repair" was clarinet reeds jammed between ribs and board. Any ideas on re-gluing without drilling holes? It would be easier if the strings were out, but I'd like to avoid that. The piano was previously in a music studio and never abused. 



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    Philip Jamison
    West Chester PA
    (610) 696-8449
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  • 2.  RE: Loose Ribs

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-27-2023 10:48
    Phil

    Has the rib come off the soundboard, or did the soundboard come off the rib?  There is a difference. Do you need to push the rib up to the soundboard, or pull the soundboard down to the rib? 

    Wim





  • 3.  RE: Loose Ribs

    Posted 12-27-2023 11:20

    The ribs appear to be not very well glued to the board, and are loose in spots. The soundboard does not appear to be warped or distorted.



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    Philip Jamison
    West Chester PA
    (610) 696-8449
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  • 4.  RE: Loose Ribs

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-27-2023 11:27
    Since you don't want to do any drilling, I would suggest you try to squirt some medium CA glue in the gap, and then while applying pressure with your fingers, or with a screw driver, to push the rib up to the board, and squirt it with the kicker. 

    If there is a chance to do so, it might be easier to put the piano on its side. 

    Wim





  • 5.  RE: Loose Ribs

    Posted 12-27-2023 11:34

    Thanks for that idea, Wim. The piano is on its side now.



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    Philip Jamison
    West Chester PA
    (610) 696-8449
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  • 6.  RE: Loose Ribs

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-27-2023 13:19

    Philip,

    That will only work if you can support it against something solid on the top side. Otherwise it's a recipe for disaster if it sets before you can hold it in place long enough. 

    I would suggest using inflatable bags (like "Winbag" or similar) to do your pressurizing between the strings or plate on the top, and beams underneath. Squeeze tight first, then apply CA. Don't use your fingers, DAMHIK.

    Edit: There is no harm in putting modest screws through from the top where you can get to it. Several European makers do this all over the place (or at least used to).

    Peter Grey Piano Doctor 



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    Peter Grey
    Stratham NH
    (603) 686-2395
    pianodoctor57@gmail.com
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  • 7.  RE: Loose Ribs

    Posted 12-27-2023 14:53

    The air bag is a good idea. Wonder is they might work used both above and below the board.



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    Philip Jamison
    West Chester PA
    (610) 696-8449
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  • 8.  RE: Loose Ribs

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-27-2023 18:11

    I strongly suggest that you visit a thread from a while back on reattaching ribs.  The ideas that Jim Ialeggio proposes have given me remarkable results.

    https://my.ptg.org/communities/community-home/digestviewer/viewthread?GroupId=43&MessageKey=7c1eb77f-336a-4af2-aaeb-32770faeff51&CommunityKey=6265a40b-9fd2-4152-a628-bd7c7d770cbf&tab=digestviewer



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    Floyd Gadd RPT
    Regina SK
    (306) 502-9103
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  • 9.  RE: Loose Ribs

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-27-2023 22:02

    Philip,

    That is what I had in mind...above and below. Good old wedges also work from down below too. 

    Peter Grey Piano Doctor 



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    Peter Grey
    Stratham NH
    (603) 686-2395
    pianodoctor57@gmail.com
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  • 10.  RE: Loose Ribs

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-28-2023 01:02

    I would be surprised if an airbag would give you enough pressure unless you're using something like a soundboard press fire hose type clamp.

    Not sure why you don't want to use screws unless the ribs are not accessible because of the bracing.  You don't have to go all the way through the board, You can just drill a hole through the rib but not into the panel, sink a screw up into the soundboard panel to pull the panel back to the rib and plug it with a dowel later, hardly noticeable.

    Or I agree with using wooden wedges though it might be easier to flip the piano over to do that. I would not use CA glue for this repair. 



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    David Love RPT
    www.davidlovepianos.com
    davidlovepianos@comcast.net
    415 407 8320
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  • 11.  RE: Loose Ribs

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-28-2023 07:58

    My first choice would be to use nice looking brass screws from the top side (no bigger than #8) where ever access is reasonably good, including through the strings (its simply inconvenient but can be done). I would also opt for an aliphatic type glue such as Titebond 3 (longer working time).  I would save the CA for the very final micro areas where I could not get normal adhesive.

    Where access is otherwise impossibly limited I would have to get creative. I have done this numerous times successfully. 

    What is the problem with putting screws? If the client simply says no, then tell them the strings and plate need to come out and a rebuild is in order.  Then you can use go bars and wedges. It's not your fault this happened. You need to protect your own reputation.  If the client is handcuffing you, walk away. If you're handcuffing yourself, that's a different story altogether.

    Peter Grey Piano Doctor 



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    Peter Grey
    Stratham NH
    (603) 686-2395
    pianodoctor57@gmail.com
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  • 12.  RE: Loose Ribs

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-29-2023 00:42

    If you want a repair that doesn't show any screws then the method is to drill two holes into the rib on either side of the soundboard crack.  Usually these separations occur in conjunction with a crack but if not then determine at what interval you will need screws depending on the length the rib separation.  Tyically every 1.5 - 2 " is enough.  Before you drill, insert a thin feeler gauge in the gap so that the drill stops short of the soundboard panel.  The diameter of the hole should be larger than the screw shank so the screw can be inserted without binding on the sides of the hole.  I usually use a 7/32" drill, which allows me to use a 7/32" hammer shank dowl, and a screw whose shank diameter, then, is slightly less.  Work some wood glue into the joint (feeler gauges are good for that too) and then using a self tapping wood screw, insert the screw into the hole and screw it into the panel to pull the panel to the rib.  Usually I use thick cardboard punchings (front rail) to protect the rib, and adjust for the thickness of the rib versus the length of the screw, and maybe a washer against the punchings so that the rib is not marred.  Choose the number punchings so that the screw just barely but not noticeably pops through the top of the soundboard panel.  A small pinpoint is all you should see.  

    When the glue is dry, leave it overnight, then remove the screw and using the same 7/32" drill bit with a drill stop, drill up into the soundboard panel so that it can receive a dowel but don't punch through the top of the board.  When dry, trim the dowel flush and you can stain and but a drop of shellac on the end of the dowel to make it look a bit less obvious. 

    Now you have a repair which is only apparent from the bottom side of the piano and shows only as the ends of a dowel.  From the topside it will be invisible.  



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    David Love RPT
    www.davidlovepianos.com
    davidlovepianos@comcast.net
    415 407 8320
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  • 13.  RE: Loose Ribs

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-28-2023 09:01

    AirShim Pro 500 lb pressure



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    Parker Leigh RPT
    Winchester VA
    (540) 722-3865
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  • 14.  RE: Loose Ribs

    Posted 12-28-2023 10:37

    I own the piano and am preparing it for sale, so I was wondering if there was a screw-less option for this repair. I may use screws from below followed by plugs, but don't mind experimenting.



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    Philip Jamison
    West Chester PA
    (610) 696-8449
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  • 15.  RE: Loose Ribs

    Posted 12-29-2023 07:53
    Phillip,

    Here is another suggestion. Correct me if I'm wrong but you said the piano is in your shop on it's side and it is an instrument you own that you're preparing for sale, correct?

    I have used Gorilla glue several times for this type of situation. It is expanding polyurethane glue. After expanding, it hardens into a rigid foam. The expansion of the glue is such that it fills in all voids between ribs and soundboard. Once dry, it is easily cleaned up with a chisel.

    The procedure would be to blue tape the bottom of the ribs so the glue doesn't run out. Squeeze the glue into the joints. Using an artists spatula to work it into tight spots. Let it dry and scrape away any foam that is protruding from the rib.

    Some of you might be rolling your eyes at this but you might be surprised in how much strength this adds back to the soundboard and even restoring some sound.  No clapping required.

    Doug Mahard
    CT Chapter
     





  • 16.  RE: Loose Ribs

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-29-2023 12:44
    I had hoped that the expanding polyurethane glue would be a solution.  But the expansion is a result of gas generated in the curing process so it's full of bubbles and doesn't establish a solid part-to-part bond. It will dampen vibrations or prevent parts from buzzing against each other but does not restore the dynamic contact of rib and board with each other. 

    Keith Akins, RPT
    Piano Technologist
    715/775-0022 Mon-Sat 9a-9p
    Find me on LinkedIn





  • 17.  RE: Loose Ribs

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-28-2023 11:06
    Preliminary comment: if the piano is in a music studio, it is experiencing "commercial" use and probably merits more extensive repairs like restringing. However, if you want to kick the can down the road...

    I'd suggest "invisible" clamping by the use of a fine wire through the soundboard and rib. That's the way I rib a soundboard rather than using a press -- in which case, it is truly invisible. With a finish on the soundboard it might be slightly visible, but minimally so. A skilled touch-up person probably could render it truly invisible. 

    So, the essential part of the procedure involves running a fine (like #10) wire through both the soundboard into the hole bored in the rib to inject glue into the void between the board and rib. After  first injecting the glue, the wire is run through and looped through a nail and wooden caul under the rib and a clamping fixture on top of the board that uses a tuning pin to apply tension to the wire and compress the rib and board together. 

    After the joint has dried, the wire is pulled through and a tiny dab of lacquer (like a drop on the point of a pin or end of fine wire) would render the mark at least unobtrusive if not invisible. The injection hole in the rib would, of course, be filled with a dowel. (Hammer shank works well). 

    This will certainly require loosening some strings, but compared to restringing and removing the plate, is certainly much less involved. But it would be able to apply much greater pressure than could be done with an inflatable bag. 

    (If having the tuning pin clamp on the top of the board just isn't possible, the clamping elements can be reversed with the tuning pin device on the bottom of the rib.) 

    Keith Akins, RPT
    Piano Technologist
    715/775-0022 Mon-Sat 9a-9p
    Find me on LinkedIn





  • 18.  RE: Loose Ribs

    Member
    Posted 12-28-2023 13:11

    You could use Miller wood dowels to do the repair and avoid metal screws entirely although drywall screws of various lengths short of coming through the soundboard will get you good clamping power . Nothing wrong with screws but I have seen some ugly repairs done with screws and wood buttons on the topside of the soundboard. I have done several repairs on Baldwin Hamiltons where a few inches of the bridge lifted off the soundboard . You can spread glue on an old credit card or piece of plastic and drag it around on the lifted rib  or you can put a dam of tape on one side and squeeze glue in with a glue syringe. I believe Woodcraft and Rockler sell the Miller dowel system with the tapered drill bits needed - syringes as well



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    James Kelly
    Owner- Fur Elise Piano Service
    Pawleys Island SC
    (843) 325-4357
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  • 19.  RE: Loose Ribs

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-29-2023 08:14
    I have attacked this problem in the past by clamping a 2 X 4 across the rim directly above the rib in question.  The 2 X 4 can either have T nuts installed or simply a through hole.  Carriage bolts are used to press down on the soundboard.  If you are using the T nuts, simply unscrew the carriage bolt down to apply pressure.  The alternate method is to install nuts and a washer on the carriage bolt and turn the nut out so the bolt applies pressure where needed.  The heads of the 1/4 carriage bolt can be maneuvered between the strings until the head contacts the soundboard.  From the underside the glue is worked into the void using a feeler gauge and then wedging from below.  You can get creative here due to the beams and their locations.  It may be possible to clamp a second 2 X 4 directly in line with the top one and apply a through bolt from below if your loos spot allows.  If you need more distance you can always use all thread with nuts and place a small block between the hardware and the rib/soundboard to prevent cosmetic damage.  If the loose spot is longer, use additional bolts and even a small strip of wood as a spanner.  If you are afraid of finish damage place a rag or strip of felt between the rim and the top 2 X 4.





  • 20.  RE: Loose Ribs

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-29-2023 15:16

    Not sure why you shy away from the quick and easy repair David Love suggests.  If you ever look at the bottom side of a soundboard you will see dowels through the ribs to the bridge.  It is done all the time in the factories.  David's suggested method is simple and fast.  The feeler gauge as a drill bit stop assures the screw can "bite" in the board and pull it together.  The length of the screw is important so as to not go all the way through the board, that's where the spacer comes in at the screw head.   



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    Tim Coates RPT
    Sioux Falls SD
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  • 21.  RE: Loose Ribs

    Posted 12-29-2023 16:06

    Thanks for all the clever suggestions. I've always used drywall screws for rib repair, but wondered about "invisible" alternatives. I like the idea of shimming the screw heads away from the ribs and using hammer shanks to plug the holes.



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    Philip Jamison
    West Chester PA
    (610) 696-8449
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  • 22.  RE: Loose Ribs

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-29-2023 21:01

    This is essentially the procedure I've used for many years. Difference is that I left the screws in.  David's refinement is certainly more elegant. Worth copying. 

    Peter Grey Piano Doctor 



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    Peter Grey
    Stratham NH
    (603) 686-2395
    pianodoctor57@gmail.com
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  • 23.  RE: Loose Ribs

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-30-2023 01:41

    It's been a few years since I have done any board work but David Love's method was my favorite method with sheet metal screws if I could not use traditional wood screws from the top starting with a modified drill bit to start a round hole to be plugged with soundboard plugs, then followed by a traditional flat head screw drilled for body and tap. On Uprights, I would use David's method and drill right through back posts when necessary. On edge separations I have even used hook eyes to pull the board down to the rim shelf with sheet metal screws. Usually # 8 if I remember correctly. Various painters spatulas are a must to put between the board and the rib to stop the drill no matter which way you are drilling. I never had much luck with the tuning pin / music wire clamping method.



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    Tremaine Parsons RPT
    Georgetown CA
    (530) 333-9299
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  • 24.  RE: Loose Ribs

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 12-31-2023 15:23
    I also have used David’s method many times. It is relatively quick and effective. And like Tremaine, I will drill through the posts on uprights if needed. Once you figure out a way to locate the rib drilling approaching from the post, it’s pretty straight forward.
    I also agree that a selection of artist palette knives are essential to insert glue between the soundboard and ribs.

    On some rim separations, if you aren’t able to access the front side due to the plate presence, you can use long coarse thread drywall screws, leaving passing clearance for the screw shank except at the soundboard (I drill a small pilot through the soundboard to avert splitting the soundboard.) The screw will pass through the soundboard, but since it’s behind the plate, it will not be visible. When the long screw contacts the plate, further turning of the screw will force the soundboard into contact with the rim. After the glue dries, you remove the screw and plug the hole with a dowel.


    Joe Wiencek
    NYC