Pianotech

I will be drilling a pinblock, shortly, for a piano that is not set up for tuning pin bushings.  This will be my first time drilling in this configuration.

I am considering how best to mark the block in preparation for drilling.  I want to avoid having any of the pins rubbing against the plate, at least for the first several decades. 

I have a set of transfer punches, so I have a choice of diameters.My first thought was to choose the largest punch that would fit in the plate holes (bass and low tenor holes are .325" and the rest are .375") and to angle the punch so that it leans away from the keyboard end of the plate, in other words, the opposite direction to which the tuning pins will lean.  This morning it occurred to me that it might make sense to choose a slightly smaller punch, same lean, and thus place the marks a little closer to the keyboard edge of the block, My idea is to position the hole so as to slightly compensate for the tilting force that the string will exert on the pin.

Thoughts and advice?

------------------------------
Floyd Gadd RPT
Regina SK
(306) 502-9103
------------------------------

I will be drilling a pinblock, shortly, for a piano that is not set up for tuning pin bushings.  This will be my first time drilling in this configuration.

I am considering how best to mark the block in preparation for drilling.  I want to avoid having any of the pins rubbing against the plate, at least for the first several decades. 

I have a set of transfer punches, so I have a choice of diameters.My first thought was to choose the largest punch that would fit in the plate holes (bass and low tenor holes are .325" and the rest are .375") and to angle the punch so that it leans away from the keyboard end of the plate, in other words, the opposite direction to which the tuning pins will lean.  This morning it occurred to me that it might make sense to choose a slightly smaller punch, same lean, and thus place the marks a little closer to the keyboard edge of the block, My idea is to position the hole so as to slightly compensate for the tilting force that the string will exert on the pin.

Thoughts and advice?

------------------------------
Floyd Gadd RPT
Regina SK
(306) 502-9103
------------------------------

sense to choose a slightly smaller punch, same lean, and thus place the marks a little closer to the keyboard edge of the block, My idea is to position the hole so as to slightly compensate for the tilting force that the string will exert on the pin.

Thoughts and advice?

Floyd, this is what I have done for decades. One size smaller than the full fit punch, pressed against the proximal side of the hole. 5° angle on the hole bore. 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

I will be drilling a pinblock, shortly, for a piano that is not set up for tuning pin bushings.  This will be my first time drilling in this configuration.

I am considering how best to mark the block in preparation for drilling.  I want to avoid having any of the pins rubbing against the plate, at least for the first several decades. 

I have a set of transfer punches, so I have a choice of diameters.My first thought was to choose the largest punch that would fit in the plate holes (bass and low tenor holes are .325" and the rest are .375") and to angle the punch so that it leans away from the keyboard end of the plate, in other words, the opposite direction to which the tuning pins will lean.  This morning it occurred to me that it might make sense to choose a slightly smaller punch, same lean, and thus place the marks a little closer to the keyboard edge of the block, My idea is to position the hole so as to slightly compensate for the tilting force that the string will exert on the pin.

Thoughts and advice?

------------------------------
Floyd Gadd RPT
Regina SK
(306) 502-9103
------------------------------

I will be drilling a pinblock, shortly, for a piano that is not set up for tuning pin bushings.  This will be my first time drilling in this configuration.

I am considering how best to mark the block in preparation for drilling.  I want to avoid having any of the pins rubbing against the plate, at least for the first several decades. 

I have a set of transfer punches, so I have a choice of diameters.My first thought was to choose the largest punch that would fit in the plate holes (bass and low tenor holes are .325" and the rest are .375") and to angle the punch so that it leans away from the keyboard end of the plate, in other words, the opposite direction to which the tuning pins will lean.  This morning it occurred to me that it might make sense to choose a slightly smaller punch, same lean, and thus place the marks a little closer to the keyboard edge of the block, My idea is to position the hole so as to slightly compensate for the tilting force that the string will exert on the pin.

Thoughts and advice?

------------------------------
Floyd Gadd RPT
Regina SK
(306) 502-9103
------------------------------

I like to lean the transfer punch slightly toward the agraffes.  That way the tuning pins will be aligned slightly front of center.  Drill at 7 degrees back tilt.

I learned this during a pinblock course with Wally Brooks in 1981.

I will be drilling a pinblock, shortly, for a piano that is not set up for tuning pin bushings.  This will be my first time drilling in this configuration.

I am considering how best to mark the block in preparation for drilling.  I want to avoid having any of the pins rubbing against the plate, at least for the first several decades. 

I have a set of transfer punches, so I have a choice of diameters.My first thought was to choose the largest punch that would fit in the plate holes (bass and low tenor holes are .325" and the rest are .375") and to angle the punch so that it leans away from the keyboard end of the plate, in other words, the opposite direction to which the tuning pins will lean.  This morning it occurred to me that it might make sense to choose a slightly smaller punch, same lean, and thus place the marks a little closer to the keyboard edge of the block, My idea is to position the hole so as to slightly compensate for the tilting force that the string will exert on the pin.

Thoughts and advice?

------------------------------
Floyd Gadd RPT
Regina SK
(306) 502-9103
------------------------------

I started at 7° initially (based on things I read), decided it was too much for me and graduated to 6° which seemed better, but then read that SS used 5° so I reduced to 5° and I have liked that the best, therefore I have stuck with it ever since.  The only exception being an Ivers & Pond (IIRC) with a slanted PB that required a significant forward adjustment. 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

I like to lean the transfer punch slightly toward the agraffes.  That way the tuning pins will be aligned slightly front of center.  Drill at 7 degrees back tilt.

I learned this during a pinblock course with Wally Brooks in 1981.

I will be drilling a pinblock, shortly, for a piano that is not set up for tuning pin bushings.  This will be my first time drilling in this configuration.

I am considering how best to mark the block in preparation for drilling.  I want to avoid having any of the pins rubbing against the plate, at least for the first several decades. 

I have a set of transfer punches, so I have a choice of diameters.My first thought was to choose the largest punch that would fit in the plate holes (bass and low tenor holes are .325" and the rest are .375") and to angle the punch so that it leans away from the keyboard end of the plate, in other words, the opposite direction to which the tuning pins will lean.  This morning it occurred to me that it might make sense to choose a slightly smaller punch, same lean, and thus place the marks a little closer to the keyboard edge of the block, My idea is to position the hole so as to slightly compensate for the tilting force that the string will exert on the pin.

Thoughts and advice?

------------------------------
Floyd Gadd RPT
Regina SK
(306) 502-9103
------------------------------

Been a while but I always scored the block with a drill bit the same size as the plate holes. Then set the block for 5 degree drilling..

I started at 7° initially (based on things I read), decided it was too much for me and graduated to 6° which seemed better, but then read that SS used 5° so I reduced to 5° and I have liked that the best, therefore I have stuck with it ever since.  The only exception being an Ivers & Pond (IIRC) with a slanted PB that required a significant forward adjustment. 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

I like to lean the transfer punch slightly toward the agraffes.  That way the tuning pins will be aligned slightly front of center.  Drill at 7 degrees back tilt.

I learned this during a pinblock course with Wally Brooks in 1981.

I will be drilling a pinblock, shortly, for a piano that is not set up for tuning pin bushings.  This will be my first time drilling in this configuration.

I am considering how best to mark the block in preparation for drilling.  I want to avoid having any of the pins rubbing against the plate, at least for the first several decades. 

I have a set of transfer punches, so I have a choice of diameters.My first thought was to choose the largest punch that would fit in the plate holes (bass and low tenor holes are .325" and the rest are .375") and to angle the punch so that it leans away from the keyboard end of the plate, in other words, the opposite direction to which the tuning pins will lean.  This morning it occurred to me that it might make sense to choose a slightly smaller punch, same lean, and thus place the marks a little closer to the keyboard edge of the block, My idea is to position the hole so as to slightly compensate for the tilting force that the string will exert on the pin.

Thoughts and advice?

------------------------------
Floyd Gadd RPT
Regina SK
(306) 502-9103
------------------------------