Pianotech

Hopefully you can see from the attached photo that the pedal trapwork hits the casework.  I am guessing this is Not "factory" , but the aluminum tube has been bent at some time inthe past.  Has anyone else run into this? Is it safe to try and bend the tube back?  The connecting bolt <seems> to be vertical, which may be why someone bent the tube in the 1st place, to get it lined up with the hole in the pedal.  Suggestions? Experiences? Warnings?  Thanks.

Hopefully you can see from the attached photo that the pedal trapwork hits the casework.  I am guessing this is Not "factory" , but the aluminum tube has been bent at some time inthe past.  Has anyone else run into this? Is it safe to try and bend the tube back?  The connecting bolt <seems> to be vertical, which may be why someone bent the tube in the 1st place, to get it lined up with the hole in the pedal.  Suggestions? Experiences? Warnings?  Thanks.

Hopefully you can see from the attached photo that the pedal trapwork hits the casework.  I am guessing this is Not "factory" , but the aluminum tube has been bent at some time inthe past.  Has anyone else run into this? Is it safe to try and bend the tube back?  The connecting bolt <seems> to be vertical, which may be why someone bent the tube in the 1st place, to get it lined up with the hole in the pedal.  Suggestions? Experiences? Warnings?  Thanks.

Hopefully you can see from the attached photo that the pedal trapwork hits the casework.  I am guessing this is Not "factory" , but the aluminum tube has been bent at some time inthe past.  Has anyone else run into this? Is it safe to try and bend the tube back?  The connecting bolt <seems> to be vertical, which may be why someone bent the tube in the 1st place, to get it lined up with the hole in the pedal.  Suggestions? Experiences? Warnings?  Thanks.

S,

The jog in the pedal is original and is for clearance around the middle pedal. 

Most damper pedals have multiple holes for the prop bolt and a fair amount of play in the trap lever hinge. 

To address: 

• remove the pedal prop nut
• remove the pedal hinge on the treble side
• slide the pedal assembly hinge on out of the other hinge on the bass side
• move the pedal prop bolt back one hole while making sure there is sufficient play in the trap lever hinge and that there is no interference created anywhere else in the system
• reinstall the pedal hinge pin (still in the pedal) into the bass side pedal hinge bracket
• reinstall the treble side pedal hinge bracket 
• reinstall prop bolt through the pedal and reinstall the prop nut with any washers
• reinstall pedal rod and adjust.
• this should clear but you can trim the front corner as Blaine suggested but it'll be less material to remove. 
  
  

The process is simpler than the description but I wanted to be thorough 

See you soon!

Hopefully you can see from the attached photo that the pedal trapwork hits the casework.  I am guessing this is Not "factory" , but the aluminum tube has been bent at some time inthe past.  Has anyone else run into this? Is it safe to try and bend the tube back?  The connecting bolt <seems> to be vertical, which may be why someone bent the tube in the 1st place, to get it lined up with the hole in the pedal.  Suggestions? Experiences? Warnings?  Thanks.

This is odd. Looks like you do not have much clearance from the low bass plate strut. Allan's solution should work if it does not move the arm too close to the bass plate strut.

My first thought was to take a belt sander with 50 grit belt and grind as much of the front corner off that you can. An electric drill with a course grinding wheel might work as well. If you take off the wing nut off the bolt the arm will probably rise enough from the case to be able to grind the corner down. Might take an extra set of hands or some kind of blocking behind the arm for effective grinding.

S,

The jog in the pedal is original and is for clearance around the middle pedal. 

Most damper pedals have multiple holes for the prop bolt and a fair amount of play in the trap lever hinge. 

To address: 

• remove the pedal prop nut
• remove the pedal hinge on the treble side
• slide the pedal assembly hinge on out of the other hinge on the bass side
• move the pedal prop bolt back one hole while making sure there is sufficient play in the trap lever hinge and that there is no interference created anywhere else in the system
• reinstall the pedal hinge pin (still in the pedal) into the bass side pedal hinge bracket
• reinstall the treble side pedal hinge bracket 
• reinstall prop bolt through the pedal and reinstall the prop nut with any washers
• reinstall pedal rod and adjust.
• this should clear but you can trim the front corner as Blaine suggested but it'll be less material to remove. 
  
  

The process is simpler than the description but I wanted to be thorough 

See you soon!

Hopefully you can see from the attached photo that the pedal trapwork hits the casework.  I am guessing this is Not "factory" , but the aluminum tube has been bent at some time inthe past.  Has anyone else run into this? Is it safe to try and bend the tube back?  The connecting bolt <seems> to be vertical, which may be why someone bent the tube in the 1st place, to get it lined up with the hole in the pedal.  Suggestions? Experiences? Warnings?  Thanks.

This is odd. Looks like you do not have much clearance from the low bass plate strut. Allan's solution should work if it does not move the arm too close to the bass plate strut.

My first thought was to take a belt sander with 50 grit belt and grind as much of the front corner off that you can. An electric drill with a course grinding wheel might work as well. If you take off the wing nut off the bolt the arm will probably rise enough from the case to be able to grind the corner down. Might take an extra set of hands or some kind of blocking behind the arm for effective grinding.

S,

The jog in the pedal is original and is for clearance around the middle pedal. 

Most damper pedals have multiple holes for the prop bolt and a fair amount of play in the trap lever hinge. 

To address: 

• remove the pedal prop nut
• remove the pedal hinge on the treble side
• slide the pedal assembly hinge on out of the other hinge on the bass side
• move the pedal prop bolt back one hole while making sure there is sufficient play in the trap lever hinge and that there is no interference created anywhere else in the system
• reinstall the pedal hinge pin (still in the pedal) into the bass side pedal hinge bracket
• reinstall the treble side pedal hinge bracket 
• reinstall prop bolt through the pedal and reinstall the prop nut with any washers
• reinstall pedal rod and adjust.
• this should clear but you can trim the front corner as Blaine suggested but it'll be less material to remove. 
  
  

The process is simpler than the description but I wanted to be thorough 

See you soon!

Hopefully you can see from the attached photo that the pedal trapwork hits the casework.  I am guessing this is Not "factory" , but the aluminum tube has been bent at some time inthe past.  Has anyone else run into this? Is it safe to try and bend the tube back?  The connecting bolt <seems> to be vertical, which may be why someone bent the tube in the 1st place, to get it lined up with the hole in the pedal.  Suggestions? Experiences? Warnings?  Thanks.

Hopefully you can see from the attached photo that the pedal trapwork hits the casework.  I am guessing this is Not "factory" , but the aluminum tube has been bent at some time inthe past.  Has anyone else run into this? Is it safe to try and bend the tube back?  The connecting bolt <seems> to be vertical, which may be why someone bent the tube in the 1st place, to get it lined up with the hole in the pedal.  Suggestions? Experiences? Warnings?  Thanks.

I seem to remember it hits the toe board but not the knee board. Adjust so the pedal doesn't go down so far.

Hopefully you can see from the attached photo that the pedal trapwork hits the casework.  I am guessing this is Not "factory" , but the aluminum tube has been bent at some time inthe past.  Has anyone else run into this? Is it safe to try and bend the tube back?  The connecting bolt <seems> to be vertical, which may be why someone bent the tube in the 1st place, to get it lined up with the hole in the pedal.  Suggestions? Experiences? Warnings?  Thanks.

I think Floyd is onto something that the problem is at the fulcrum. If not plastic bushings, then perhaps the screws holding down the metal stamped bracket that the rod pivots on have loosened, it wouldn't take much. I would check those screws and maybe even try to loosen them and push the lever into position before retightening. 
I have seen the flattened tubes, sometimes the corners are trimmed. 

I seem to remember it hits the toe board but not the knee board. Adjust so the pedal doesn't go down so far.

Hopefully you can see from the attached photo that the pedal trapwork hits the casework.  I am guessing this is Not "factory" , but the aluminum tube has been bent at some time inthe past.  Has anyone else run into this? Is it safe to try and bend the tube back?  The connecting bolt <seems> to be vertical, which may be why someone bent the tube in the 1st place, to get it lined up with the hole in the pedal.  Suggestions? Experiences? Warnings?  Thanks.

It occurred to me after my 1st posting the grinding down the corner of the lifter arm is the "hack" repair. Not that I might no do it. However, I think addressing the actual cause would be better and I suspect the plastic pivot bushings or loose pivot mount. If grinding is necessary it will likely generate sparks so ample protection of the floor and case parts with a moving blanket would be in order. Better yet to remove the lifter arm and grind on a bench.

I think Floyd is onto something that the problem is at the fulcrum. If not plastic bushings, then perhaps the screws holding down the metal stamped bracket that the rod pivots on have loosened, it wouldn't take much. I would check those screws and maybe even try to loosen them and push the lever into position before retightening. 
I have seen the flattened tubes, sometimes the corners are trimmed. 

I seem to remember it hits the toe board but not the knee board. Adjust so the pedal doesn't go down so far.

Hopefully you can see from the attached photo that the pedal trapwork hits the casework.  I am guessing this is Not "factory" , but the aluminum tube has been bent at some time inthe past.  Has anyone else run into this? Is it safe to try and bend the tube back?  The connecting bolt <seems> to be vertical, which may be why someone bent the tube in the 1st place, to get it lined up with the hole in the pedal.  Suggestions? Experiences? Warnings?  Thanks.

I always carry a small hacksaw in my tool bag.  A hack saw does not generate sparks and could be used without any further concerns, aside from perhaps protecting against metal crumbs.

It occurred to me after my 1st posting the grinding down the corner of the lifter arm is the "hack" repair. Not that I might no do it. However, I think addressing the actual cause would be better and I suspect the plastic pivot bushings or loose pivot mount. If grinding is necessary it will likely generate sparks so ample protection of the floor and case parts with a moving blanket would be in order. Better yet to remove the lifter arm and grind on a bench.

I think Floyd is onto something that the problem is at the fulcrum. If not plastic bushings, then perhaps the screws holding down the metal stamped bracket that the rod pivots on have loosened, it wouldn't take much. I would check those screws and maybe even try to loosen them and push the lever into position before retightening. 
I have seen the flattened tubes, sometimes the corners are trimmed. 

I seem to remember it hits the toe board but not the knee board. Adjust so the pedal doesn't go down so far.

Hopefully you can see from the attached photo that the pedal trapwork hits the casework.  I am guessing this is Not "factory" , but the aluminum tube has been bent at some time inthe past.  Has anyone else run into this? Is it safe to try and bend the tube back?  The connecting bolt <seems> to be vertical, which may be why someone bent the tube in the 1st place, to get it lined up with the hole in the pedal.  Suggestions? Experiences? Warnings?  Thanks.

This piano, was donated to the church several years ago.

Partial success.  The pedal axle plastic washers were broken/missing and I was able to replace them with bushing cloth and leather washers.

The flat part of the tube connecting the pedal to the rod overhangs the wood further than the distance I could move the pedal into the piano, so moving the pedal would not fix the issue.

There is only one hole in the pedal for the bolt connecting the pedal to the tube, so I couldn't just place the bolt further back to get the tube off the wood.

The screws for the tube support are under the tube. You would have to remove the tube to get to the screws. There is a 9 mm nut on the back of the axle, but the axle wasn't coming out, there was no room to get good leverage to push it out.  Even if I did, the wood was so narrow I couldn't place the left screw further to the front in order to reposition the tube. 

Previously someone had tied the two tubes together to pull the sustain pedal tube back. That had slipped, but I retied it as a temporary fix until I can go back with my Dremel and hacksaw to remove enough of the flat section.

The middle pedal has a loose nut on the back, but you can't get a nut driver in because the pedal overhangs the nut.  

 [ not sure if the photos will be attachments or just show in the post ]

I always carry a small hacksaw in my tool bag.  A hack saw does not generate sparks and could be used without any further concerns, aside from perhaps protecting against metal crumbs.

It occurred to me after my 1st posting the grinding down the corner of the lifter arm is the "hack" repair. Not that I might no do it. However, I think addressing the actual cause would be better and I suspect the plastic pivot bushings or loose pivot mount. If grinding is necessary it will likely generate sparks so ample protection of the floor and case parts with a moving blanket would be in order. Better yet to remove the lifter arm and grind on a bench.

I think Floyd is onto something that the problem is at the fulcrum. If not plastic bushings, then perhaps the screws holding down the metal stamped bracket that the rod pivots on have loosened, it wouldn't take much. I would check those screws and maybe even try to loosen them and push the lever into position before retightening. 
I have seen the flattened tubes, sometimes the corners are trimmed. 

I seem to remember it hits the toe board but not the knee board. Adjust so the pedal doesn't go down so far.

Hopefully you can see from the attached photo that the pedal trapwork hits the casework.  I am guessing this is Not "factory" , but the aluminum tube has been bent at some time inthe past.  Has anyone else run into this? Is it safe to try and bend the tube back?  The connecting bolt <seems> to be vertical, which may be why someone bent the tube in the 1st place, to get it lined up with the hole in the pedal.  Suggestions? Experiences? Warnings?  Thanks.

This piano, was donated to the church several years ago.

Partial success.  The pedal axle plastic washers were broken/missing and I was able to replace them with bushing cloth and leather washers.

The flat part of the tube connecting the pedal to the rod overhangs the wood further than the distance I could move the pedal into the piano, so moving the pedal would not fix the issue.

There is only one hole in the pedal for the bolt connecting the pedal to the tube, so I couldn't just place the bolt further back to get the tube off the wood.

The screws for the tube support are under the tube. You would have to remove the tube to get to the screws. There is a 9 mm nut on the back of the axle, but the axle wasn't coming out, there was no room to get good leverage to push it out.  Even if I did, the wood was so narrow I couldn't place the left screw further to the front in order to reposition the tube. 

Previously someone had tied the two tubes together to pull the sustain pedal tube back. That had slipped, but I retied it as a temporary fix until I can go back with my Dremel and hacksaw to remove enough of the flat section.

The middle pedal has a loose nut on the back, but you can't get a nut driver in because the pedal overhangs the nut.  

 [ not sure if the photos will be attachments or just show in the post ]

I always carry a small hacksaw in my tool bag.  A hack saw does not generate sparks and could be used without any further concerns, aside from perhaps protecting against metal crumbs.

It occurred to me after my 1st posting the grinding down the corner of the lifter arm is the "hack" repair. Not that I might no do it. However, I think addressing the actual cause would be better and I suspect the plastic pivot bushings or loose pivot mount. If grinding is necessary it will likely generate sparks so ample protection of the floor and case parts with a moving blanket would be in order. Better yet to remove the lifter arm and grind on a bench.

I think Floyd is onto something that the problem is at the fulcrum. If not plastic bushings, then perhaps the screws holding down the metal stamped bracket that the rod pivots on have loosened, it wouldn't take much. I would check those screws and maybe even try to loosen them and push the lever into position before retightening. 
I have seen the flattened tubes, sometimes the corners are trimmed. 

I seem to remember it hits the toe board but not the knee board. Adjust so the pedal doesn't go down so far.

Hopefully you can see from the attached photo that the pedal trapwork hits the casework.  I am guessing this is Not "factory" , but the aluminum tube has been bent at some time inthe past.  Has anyone else run into this? Is it safe to try and bend the tube back?  The connecting bolt <seems> to be vertical, which may be why someone bent the tube in the 1st place, to get it lined up with the hole in the pedal.  Suggestions? Experiences? Warnings?  Thanks.

If you haven't got the tube axle out, you haven't gotten to the most likely root of the problem, which would be the compromised plastic bushings in that interface. Until you replace those, you will have both a misaligned tube and increasing noise in the mechanism. Pushing down on the tube against the coil spring is a necessary part of the strategy for getting the axle out. 

This piano, was donated to the church several years ago.

Partial success.  The pedal axle plastic washers were broken/missing and I was able to replace them with bushing cloth and leather washers.

The flat part of the tube connecting the pedal to the rod overhangs the wood further than the distance I could move the pedal into the piano, so moving the pedal would not fix the issue.

There is only one hole in the pedal for the bolt connecting the pedal to the tube, so I couldn't just place the bolt further back to get the tube off the wood.

The screws for the tube support are under the tube. You would have to remove the tube to get to the screws. There is a 9 mm nut on the back of the axle, but the axle wasn't coming out, there was no room to get good leverage to push it out.  Even if I did, the wood was so narrow I couldn't place the left screw further to the front in order to reposition the tube. 

Previously someone had tied the two tubes together to pull the sustain pedal tube back. That had slipped, but I retied it as a temporary fix until I can go back with my Dremel and hacksaw to remove enough of the flat section.

The middle pedal has a loose nut on the back, but you can't get a nut driver in because the pedal overhangs the nut.  

 [ not sure if the photos will be attachments or just show in the post ]

I always carry a small hacksaw in my tool bag.  A hack saw does not generate sparks and could be used without any further concerns, aside from perhaps protecting against metal crumbs.

It occurred to me after my 1st posting the grinding down the corner of the lifter arm is the "hack" repair. Not that I might no do it. However, I think addressing the actual cause would be better and I suspect the plastic pivot bushings or loose pivot mount. If grinding is necessary it will likely generate sparks so ample protection of the floor and case parts with a moving blanket would be in order. Better yet to remove the lifter arm and grind on a bench.

I think Floyd is onto something that the problem is at the fulcrum. If not plastic bushings, then perhaps the screws holding down the metal stamped bracket that the rod pivots on have loosened, it wouldn't take much. I would check those screws and maybe even try to loosen them and push the lever into position before retightening. 
I have seen the flattened tubes, sometimes the corners are trimmed. 

I seem to remember it hits the toe board but not the knee board. Adjust so the pedal doesn't go down so far.

Hopefully you can see from the attached photo that the pedal trapwork hits the casework.  I am guessing this is Not "factory" , but the aluminum tube has been bent at some time inthe past.  Has anyone else run into this? Is it safe to try and bend the tube back?  The connecting bolt <seems> to be vertical, which may be why someone bent the tube in the 1st place, to get it lined up with the hole in the pedal.  Suggestions? Experiences? Warnings?  Thanks.