Pianotech

  • 1.  String lubricants?

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 20 hours ago

    My grandfather used 3 in 1 oil on strings and I followed suit.  Early on I began to suspect that 3 in 1 was actually causing string sticking as I was finding pianos that I serviced that had severe string sticking.  I switched to Liquid Wrench with much better results until that brand changed their formula (too smelly).  My current treatment is CLP with a small amount of Marvel Mystery Oil, which I suspect is a rust inhibitor. I have tried graphite (DAG) but with limited results.

    I am curious as to what other techs have used and their opinions.  This is a worthy PTJ article.

    One issue I have with any of these lubricants (graphite is a special issue) is that the contact of the string and its bearing point is a microscopic area with high pressure and limited access to any lubricant.  The lubes we imagine we are applying might not actually be reaching the contact point.

    Oil in a car is a completely different issue, the parts in a car are constantly moving and the moving parts, at least after the car has started up are gliding on a film of oil with no contact between metal parts. Piano strings are not moving parts and there is pure metal to metal contact with no film of oil.  Rust inhibition is another issue.

    The exceptions are graphite or molybdenum disulfide applied to the capo bar prior to stringing.  Graphite is made of sheets of carbon with carbon to carbon bonds in two dimensions, as hard as diamonds, but only in a one atom thin sheet.  This makes graphite a perfect high pressure lubricant that is slightly abrasive, diamond hard in one direction and perfectly slippery in the other.  But when I have applied it to pianos with rendering issues I get only limited results.

    Perhaps by loosening strings and applying graphite, then pulling back to pitch the graphite might get it to the real contact point, I have not yet tried being this aggressive.

    Then there is the issue of steel to brass, with some agraffes that might be made of different alloys of brass (try looking up brass in Wikipedia).  Another complete topic!

    Any opinions?  Disagreements?



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    Blaine Hebert RPT
    Duarte CA
    (626) 390-0512
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  • 2.  RE: String lubricants?

    Posted 18 hours ago
    Thanks so much for this. I used to use 3in1 also but have turned to Protek too.

    The more I tune the more I find that lubricating the agraffes really helps and leads to better rendering and fewer broken strings.

    Best wishes

    David P


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    David Pinnegar, B.Sc., A.R.C.S.
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    +44 7868385643





  • 3.  RE: String lubricants?

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 11 hours ago
    I'll share my approach for what it's worth... 

    First off I only lube bearing points on pianos that will are difficult/impossible to tune well without it. And even then only in the troublesome sections or notes. The main reason is that I can't be arsed to do it if the string is rendering fine already. But a secondary reason is that if, contrary to all available evidence, it turns out 50 years from now that this has caused some latent problem, at least I will have done the least amount of harm practical... IMO the likelihood of such problems is so low that there's nothing wrong with doing it as a matter of course, it's just not my personal preference.

    I originally started out using protek CLP, but switched to the somewhat thicker ProLube on a suggestion from Mario Igrec. He said it works better and for longer, and in my experience that is absolutely true. It comes in a spray bottle which is no good for this use, so I dump it in a hypo oiler.

    I find that in many cases where pianos seem to "want" lube, the culprit is the understring felt, so I start by giving it a good soak, and in the process get a little on the counter bearing bar if present. It's a good idea to vacuum first if it's dirty, just so it doesn't lift the crud and deposit a mess. If that doesn't cut it I'll try the agaffes and/or capo bar. For these I just lightly drag the needle of the hypo oiler against the strings as near to the bearing point as I can get. The idea being to leave just a tiny fraction of a "drop" behind.

    This is supremely helpful on some of the older Chinese-built grands I tune. There are a couple Hallet & Davis ones where the treble was nearly impossible to tune stably, if at all, until I lubricated them this way.