Pianotech

I'm looking to get a new lever, not anytime soon, but still...

I've seen a lot on tuning tip lengths and tuning lever head angle with people saying "shorter tip is better" or "shorter tip is stiffer" and other readings I see "head angle isn't as important as tip length...therefore bigger head angle and shorter tip is ideal."

So, I thought I'd ask the same questions as we've all probably seen before, but to see if there's any new info:

Does a shorter tip actually noticeably flex less? 30mm Jahn tip vs 40mm Jahn tip...they are both extremely tough metal...(I have used pliers and lots of physical force to try to gouge the surface and saw no marring from the plier teeth). So if the metal is so dang resilient to marring can it really be so flexible to be able to tell a difference between 30mm and 40mm?

If it is a big difference then my best option for a new lever would be a shorter tip (30mm...my current is 40mm) and a larger head angle (15⁰ so as to clear plate struts...my current is 10⁰), correct?

Also, does it matter if the tip is male or female threaded? I currently have Jahn male tips.

Thanks

I'm looking to get a new lever, not anytime soon, but still...

I've seen a lot on tuning tip lengths and tuning lever head angle with people saying "shorter tip is better" or "shorter tip is stiffer" and other readings I see "head angle isn't as important as tip length...therefore bigger head angle and shorter tip is ideal."

So, I thought I'd ask the same questions as we've all probably seen before, but to see if there's any new info:

Does a shorter tip actually noticeably flex less? 30mm Jahn tip vs 40mm Jahn tip...they are both extremely tough metal...(I have used pliers and lots of physical force to try to gouge the surface and saw no marring from the plier teeth). So if the metal is so dang resilient to marring can it really be so flexible to be able to tell a difference between 30mm and 40mm?

If it is a big difference then my best option for a new lever would be a shorter tip (30mm...my current is 40mm) and a larger head angle (15⁰ so as to clear plate struts...my current is 10⁰), correct?

Also, does it matter if the tip is male or female threaded? I currently have Jahn male tips.

Thanks

I'm looking to get a new lever, not anytime soon, but still...

I've seen a lot on tuning tip lengths and tuning lever head angle with people saying "shorter tip is better" or "shorter tip is stiffer" and other readings I see "head angle isn't as important as tip length...therefore bigger head angle and shorter tip is ideal."

So, I thought I'd ask the same questions as we've all probably seen before, but to see if there's any new info:

Does a shorter tip actually noticeably flex less? 30mm Jahn tip vs 40mm Jahn tip...they are both extremely tough metal...(I have used pliers and lots of physical force to try to gouge the surface and saw no marring from the plier teeth). So if the metal is so dang resilient to marring can it really be so flexible to be able to tell a difference between 30mm and 40mm?

If it is a big difference then my best option for a new lever would be a shorter tip (30mm...my current is 40mm) and a larger head angle (15⁰ so as to clear plate struts...my current is 10⁰), correct?

Also, does it matter if the tip is male or female threaded? I currently have Jahn male tips.

Thanks

I'm looking to get a new lever, not anytime soon, but still...

I've seen a lot on tuning tip lengths and tuning lever head angle with people saying "shorter tip is better" or "shorter tip is stiffer" and other readings I see "head angle isn't as important as tip length...therefore bigger head angle and shorter tip is ideal."

So, I thought I'd ask the same questions as we've all probably seen before, but to see if there's any new info:

Does a shorter tip actually noticeably flex less? 30mm Jahn tip vs 40mm Jahn tip...they are both extremely tough metal...(I have used pliers and lots of physical force to try to gouge the surface and saw no marring from the plier teeth). So if the metal is so dang resilient to marring can it really be so flexible to be able to tell a difference between 30mm and 40mm?

If it is a big difference then my best option for a new lever would be a shorter tip (30mm...my current is 40mm) and a larger head angle (15⁰ so as to clear plate struts...my current is 10⁰), correct?

Also, does it matter if the tip is male or female threaded? I currently have Jahn male tips.

Thanks

ProPTN has a rental program that might be helpful.

------------------------------
"That Tuning Guy"
Scott Kerns
Lincoln, Nebraska
www.thattuningguy.com

Original Message:
Sent: 11-30-2025 13:39
From: Cobrun Sells
Subject: Tuning Lever Tip/Head Angle

I'm looking to get a new lever, not anytime soon, but still...

I've seen a lot on tuning tip lengths and tuning lever head angle with people saying "shorter tip is better" or "shorter tip is stiffer" and other readings I see "head angle isn't as important as tip length...therefore bigger head angle and shorter tip is ideal."

So, I thought I'd ask the same questions as we've all probably seen before, but to see if there's any new info:

Does a shorter tip actually noticeably flex less? 30mm Jahn tip vs 40mm Jahn tip...they are both extremely tough metal...(I have used pliers and lots of physical force to try to gouge the surface and saw no marring from the plier teeth). So if the metal is so dang resilient to marring can it really be so flexible to be able to tell a difference between 30mm and 40mm?

If it is a big difference then my best option for a new lever would be a shorter tip (30mm...my current is 40mm) and a larger head angle (15⁰ so as to clear plate struts...my current is 10⁰), correct?

Also, does it matter if the tip is male or female threaded? I currently have Jahn male tips.

Thanks

------------------------------
Cobrun Sells
cobrun94@yahoo.com
------------------------------

I'm looking to get a new lever, not anytime soon, but still...

I've seen a lot on tuning tip lengths and tuning lever head angle with people saying "shorter tip is better" or "shorter tip is stiffer" and other readings I see "head angle isn't as important as tip length...therefore bigger head angle and shorter tip is ideal."

So, I thought I'd ask the same questions as we've all probably seen before, but to see if there's any new info:

Does a shorter tip actually noticeably flex less? 30mm Jahn tip vs 40mm Jahn tip...they are both extremely tough metal...(I have used pliers and lots of physical force to try to gouge the surface and saw no marring from the plier teeth). So if the metal is so dang resilient to marring can it really be so flexible to be able to tell a difference between 30mm and 40mm?

If it is a big difference then my best option for a new lever would be a shorter tip (30mm...my current is 40mm) and a larger head angle (15⁰ so as to clear plate struts...my current is 10⁰), correct?

Also, does it matter if the tip is male or female threaded? I currently have Jahn male tips.

Thanks

I think this is misunderstood.  The extra length of the tuning tip affects how much the tuning hammer flexes the tuning pin, not that the tip itself is flexing any more because it's 10 mm longer.  The longer tip has more leverage against the tuning pin and flexes it more.  If you have a very long tuning tip, which could be necessary on pianos with tall plate struts, you'll have to be more careful when tuning.  If the tip is shorter, it won't flex the tuning pin as much.  Of course you can learn to use it in either case.  The shorter tip is easier to use if the head angle is 15 deg. because with a shallower angle the lever may not clear a nearby strut.  If your tip is long enough, you wouldn't need any head angle at all.  But I don't think they make a 0 deg. head, afaik. 

As far as the tuning lever length, some prefer a longer lever because it's easier to turn tight pins.  Some prefer a shorter lever because the lever is stiffer and gives better feedback when the pin turns. 

I used a regular Hale hammer with a straight handle for many years, but once I discovered how ergonomic the ball-end handles were, I got a Faulk hammer.  I'm not even sure what the head angle is, and I never change it.  Years ago, you could buy a rubber ball that fit on the regular Hale hammer.  My ball disappeared one day, and I regretted it.  
Male or female threaded tips don't matter except that you might someday want to try a different brand tip that wouldn't fit the one you have.

As was mentioned, you'll find your best choice by experience.  I wish I had tried different hammers earlier in my career, but I did learn to adjust to whatever I had in my hand.

It's not the destination, it's the journey.  Just like tools.  Some will get a tool that "everyone uses", and it won't work for them.  I have a box full of these tools that I don't use, or didn't have time to modify to make them work.  Coil lifters come to mind.  They come too wide on the end to fit between the tuning pins.  This journey of becoming a technician is full of various choices, and though you can get advice, in the end you'll find the best way and the best tools that work for you.  It helps if you're a tool junkie like me.  But only buy a tool when you need it, other than the essential regulating tools, and regular hand tools, screwdrivers, etc.  I would not buy a retired technician's toolbox.  You want to be proud of your tools.  Don't buy old junky worn out tools that, like old shoes, you wouldn't want to own.  

Good luck.

I'm looking to get a new lever, not anytime soon, but still...

I've seen a lot on tuning tip lengths and tuning lever head angle with people saying "shorter tip is better" or "shorter tip is stiffer" and other readings I see "head angle isn't as important as tip length...therefore bigger head angle and shorter tip is ideal."

So, I thought I'd ask the same questions as we've all probably seen before, but to see if there's any new info:

Does a shorter tip actually noticeably flex less? 30mm Jahn tip vs 40mm Jahn tip...they are both extremely tough metal...(I have used pliers and lots of physical force to try to gouge the surface and saw no marring from the plier teeth). So if the metal is so dang resilient to marring can it really be so flexible to be able to tell a difference between 30mm and 40mm?

If it is a big difference then my best option for a new lever would be a shorter tip (30mm...my current is 40mm) and a larger head angle (15⁰ so as to clear plate struts...my current is 10⁰), correct?

Also, does it matter if the tip is male or female threaded? I currently have Jahn male tips.

Thanks

I think this is misunderstood.  The extra length of the tuning tip affects how much the tuning hammer flexes the tuning pin, not that the tip itself is flexing any more because it's 10 mm longer.  The longer tip has more leverage against the tuning pin and flexes it more.  If you have a very long tuning tip, which could be necessary on pianos with tall plate struts, you'll have to be more careful when tuning.  If the tip is shorter, it won't flex the tuning pin as much.  Of course you can learn to use it in either case.  The shorter tip is easier to use if the head angle is 15 deg. because with a shallower angle the lever may not clear a nearby strut.  If your tip is long enough, you wouldn't need any head angle at all.  But I don't think they make a 0 deg. head, afaik. 

As far as the tuning lever length, some prefer a longer lever because it's easier to turn tight pins.  Some prefer a shorter lever because the lever is stiffer and gives better feedback when the pin turns. 

I used a regular Hale hammer with a straight handle for many years, but once I discovered how ergonomic the ball-end handles were, I got a Faulk hammer.  I'm not even sure what the head angle is, and I never change it.  Years ago, you could buy a rubber ball that fit on the regular Hale hammer.  My ball disappeared one day, and I regretted it.  
Male or female threaded tips don't matter except that you might someday want to try a different brand tip that wouldn't fit the one you have.

As was mentioned, you'll find your best choice by experience.  I wish I had tried different hammers earlier in my career, but I did learn to adjust to whatever I had in my hand.

It's not the destination, it's the journey.  Just like tools.  Some will get a tool that "everyone uses", and it won't work for them.  I have a box full of these tools that I don't use, or didn't have time to modify to make them work.  Coil lifters come to mind.  They come too wide on the end to fit between the tuning pins.  This journey of becoming a technician is full of various choices, and though you can get advice, in the end you'll find the best way and the best tools that work for you.  It helps if you're a tool junkie like me.  But only buy a tool when you need it, other than the essential regulating tools, and regular hand tools, screwdrivers, etc.  I would not buy a retired technician's toolbox.  You want to be proud of your tools.  Don't buy old junky worn out tools that, like old shoes, you wouldn't want to own.  

Good luck.

I'm looking to get a new lever, not anytime soon, but still...

I've seen a lot on tuning tip lengths and tuning lever head angle with people saying "shorter tip is better" or "shorter tip is stiffer" and other readings I see "head angle isn't as important as tip length...therefore bigger head angle and shorter tip is ideal."

So, I thought I'd ask the same questions as we've all probably seen before, but to see if there's any new info:

Does a shorter tip actually noticeably flex less? 30mm Jahn tip vs 40mm Jahn tip...they are both extremely tough metal...(I have used pliers and lots of physical force to try to gouge the surface and saw no marring from the plier teeth). So if the metal is so dang resilient to marring can it really be so flexible to be able to tell a difference between 30mm and 40mm?

If it is a big difference then my best option for a new lever would be a shorter tip (30mm...my current is 40mm) and a larger head angle (15⁰ so as to clear plate struts...my current is 10⁰), correct?

Also, does it matter if the tip is male or female threaded? I currently have Jahn male tips.

Thanks