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verdigris remediation

  • 1.  verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 11-06-2023 21:36

    Some time ago (a year? or two?) there was a good-sized thread about various ways to deal with verdigris. Our chapter had plans to do some experimenting, and our program coordinator was sent a pile of infected shanks and flanges. I snared a sonic jewelry cleaner from the thrift store, (I can't remember if this was part of the semi-recent thread, but I remember there was some enthusiasm about it years ago), why not try that too, for fun if nothing else? 

    The plans got put on the back-burner but may resurface this season. In the meantime I would sure love to see that thread again. John Minor recently sent our chapter links to the Jim Moy stuff, but neither of us could turn up this thread. 

    If any of you can retrieve it, much appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Cindy Strehlow RPT, Central Illinois Chapter



    ------------------------------
    Cindy Strehlow, RPT
    Urbana, IL
    ------------------------------


  • 2.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 11-07-2023 00:34

    Cindy,

    The Journal would love to see your results. In the meantime, I've had good success with Fantastik. I currently have a Steinway in a customer's house with Protek on some flanges and Fantastik on others--the latter does the better job so far.

    Scott



    ------------------------------
    Scott Cole, RPT
    rvpianotuner.com
    Talent, OR
    (541-601-9033
    ------------------------------



  • 3.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 11-07-2023 01:07

    I recently did an experiment with ammonia on corroded pins.  A treatment with an ammonia solution removed the verdigris completly.  Treating flanges with ammonia does decontaminate them.  The corrosion is copper acetate and ammonia converts the copper acetate to copper and an ammonia salt.

    The problem with ammonia is that you need to soak parts in a large amount of a strong solution and it tends to unglue any felts or attached parts, like knuckles.

    A close examination of the infected wood parts shows that they are completely saturated with the oils or fats that are the source of the corrosion.  You need to extract all of the oils (fatty acids) from the wood to remove all of the verdigris.  Leaving some small amount of fatty acids will eventually produce more acetic acid (like vinegar) and the corrosion will return.

    Since Fantastic is an ammonia based solution it will remove some portion of the corrosion, but the remaining fatty acids will degrade into acetic acid and the verdigris will return.

    Replacing the parts is simple and effective.  We have been throwing every possible treatment at these parts for almost 100 years.  Just replace them! 



    ------------------------------
    Blaine Hebert RPT
    Duarte CA
    (626) 390-0512
    ------------------------------



  • 4.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Posted 11-07-2023 01:41

    Hi Cindy,

    Read the April 2022 Journal article submitted by the Connecticut Chapter. The household product Fantastik was the hands down winner. Though the article was published in 2022 the experiment happened in my basement in 2017. I just went to check the bag of parts that the Fantasik was used on and they are still swinging nicely. 

    Of course parts replacement is always the better way to go as Blaine Hebert stated. For the most part we're talking about old pianos with other worn parts too. But applying Fantastik is a lot less expensive and so far (six years on from CT chapter experiment) the test parts are swinging freely along with any of my customers pianos receiving the application.

    Doug Mahard



    ------------------------------
    Doug Mahard
    CT Chapter
    203-266-6688
    ------------------------------



  • 5.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 11-07-2023 02:00

    Doug,

    The soapy (detergent) portion of Fantastic might be working as a lubricant.  I have some old verdegrissy parts and will try it!

    The dealer I worked with back in the 1970s and 1980s had a constant stream of old Steinways and we were hosing down actions with cigarette lighter fluid and baking them in the sun constantly, with little luck.  Today, when I pull out flange pins I find coatings of blue-green, waxy corrosion that the ammonia solution removes, leaving a white residue, but the treated parts were free (and the knuckles all fell off).  
    But there is a considerable amount of oil remaining in the flange that might eventually restart the problem.

    Still, a bottle of Fantastic is a heck of a lot cheaper than a $6000 set of flanges and shanks.



    ------------------------------
    Blaine Hebert RPT
    Duarte CA
    (626) 390-0512
    ------------------------------



  • 6.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 11-07-2023 05:43
    Doug

    When applying the fantastic, did you just spray the product on the whole flange and shank, or did you use adan eye dropper and put a couple of drops right on the pin?

    Wim





  • 7.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Posted 11-07-2023 07:57
      |   view attached
    Hi Wim,

    For the controlled experiment the chapter used clock oilers from Merritt's Antiques Inc. The thin nozzle allowed us to apply two drops to each flange bushing. In the field I use a hypo oiler that you can get from Schaff Piano Supply.

    For field application, place a moving blanket draped over part of the piano and onto the floor. Place the action on the blanket standing up, vertical, length wise,  and lean it against the piano protected by the blanket. This allows me to work hands free. Then I lube wippen, hammer and jack flanges on one side, flip the action over and repeat on the opposite side of all flanges. Sometimes I will the steady the action with one hand in order get a better sight line on where I want to apply the Fantastik. A light sometimes comes in handy too.

    Don't be concerned about applying a specific amount of drops. Of course don't go crazy either. Just make sure you have at least gotten the Fantastik on the bushing cloth. There are some flanges that are so close together that the nozzle won't fit in between. I personally just squeeze some in there any way and hope for the best. I always return the next day and check my work. I have never had to reapply. 

    The Fantastik will swell things up initially to the point of unplayable. Within 24 hours everything will be swinging freely.

    Doug Mahard



    Attached is a photo. 






  • 8.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 11-07-2023 12:24
    Thanks for explaining it, Doug.

    Wim

    Sent from my iPhone




  • 9.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 11-07-2023 15:40
    Hi Doug, 

       What % concentration of Fantastik did you use? Thanks. 

    Mark Schecter
     | |   | | |   | |   | | |   | |   | | | 






  • 10.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Posted 11-07-2023 15:46
    Hi Mark,

    Full strength.

    Doug





  • 11.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 11-08-2023 00:43
    Thanks very much. 

    Mark Schecter
     | |   | | |   | |   | | |   | |   | | | 






  • 12.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 11-07-2023 15:46
    All great information.

    Does anyone remember the process of using a sonic jewelry cleaner? Of course I know it's impractical, but while we are messing around and since I have the device, it is worth trying.

    Thanks,

    Cindy





  • 13.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 11-08-2023 06:23

    So the question begs, does Fantastik stop the progression of Verdi Gris completely? Or is this another temporary solution.

    The procedure I've morph to is just using a heat gun and waving the heat gun over the parts one section at a time. It takes about 30 sec. on each section ( moving the gun slowly over the parts) before a noticeable blue/gray smoke starts to appear.  I usually continue on for another 1 min., and then move onto the next section. You'll also notice bubbling occur, which I'm assuming might be the whale oil that has purportedly been one of the solutions added to the parts.

    Anyhow, the heat gun treatment frees the center pins immediately.  I then follow through with my go-to center pin lubricant- Balistol/Naphtha (50/50) and the parts stay pretty free for an entire year. I repeat this process each I come.  Just remember to always keep the gun moving, otherwise you will scorch the wood.

    It's the fastest field repair, and cheapest, way of dealing with this annoying problem.  I'm in total agreement that the only permanent solution is replacement of the parts.

     

    Tom Servinsky 

    Registered Piano Technician

    Concert Artist Piano Technician

    Director/Conductor- Academy Orchestra

    Managing Conductor-Treasure Coast Youth Symphony

    Keyboardist- Beatles Re-Imagined

    Pianist with TLC Jazz Duo

    tompiano@tomservinsky.com

    772 221 1011 office

    772 260 7110 cell

     






  • 14.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Posted 11-08-2023 07:11
    Thomas, 
    The only thing I can tell you is all the sample parts the CT chapter used in our experiment have been sitting in my basement shop for six years in a box in individual bags. Motionless.
    The only parts that swing freely are the ones we applied Fantastik to.






  • 15.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 11-08-2023 09:57
    That's proof in the pudding. This is good to know


    Tom Servinsky
    Registered Piano Technician
    Concert Artist Piano Technician
    Director/Conductor- Academy Orchestra
    Assist. Conductor-Treasure Coast Youth Symphony
    Clarinetist-Atlantic Classical Orchestra
    772 221 1011 office
    772 260 7110 cell





  • 16.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 11-08-2023 11:51
    Doug, 

    This makes me wonder whether being deprived of oxygen isn't part of the success of your experiment. Were the bags sealed, like a ziplock, or were they open to air circulation? Not doubting your results, just wondering. Thanks. 

    Mark Schecter
     | |   | | |   | |   | | |   | |   | | | 






  • 17.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Posted 11-08-2023 15:33

    Hi Mark,

    During the test the samples were all left out and we came back 24 hours later to check friction readings. Then we placed in zip lock bags and retested 3 months out and again at 6 months, if memory serves me correctly. 

    So being in the bags I don't think changed anything. The only parts swinging from the bags is the ones treated with Fantastik.

    My customers parts are still swinging also.

    I am not trying to promote anything here other then the CT chapters findings and my own observations from my personal use. It appears TSI 301 works really well. 

    The only two drawbacks to the 301 that I see is:

    1. There is a warning on the safety sheet for 301. None what so ever on the Fantastik safety sheet. See attached.
    2. You have to order the 301 on line. Fantastik you can pick up on the way to the job.

    https://content.oppictures.com/Master_Images/Master_PDF_Files/SJN306387EA_SDS.PDF

    Oppictures remove preview

    Oppictures remove preview
    View this on Oppictures >



    ------------------------------
    Doug Mahard
    CT Chapter
    203-266-6688
    ------------------------------



  • 18.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 11-08-2023 00:08

    Today I worked with four Steinways, one a (bad) rebuild and three were recent Myers rebuilds.

    With the exception of the hammers and hammer shanks/flanges the Myers action parts were all original.  The whippen flanges were apparently restored originals and were completely free of verdigris, but had a grey color, suggesting that they had received a thorough treatment, perhaps with an ammonia solution.

    A restored Myers Steinway whippen with a probably treated whippen flange.
    A presumably treated Steinway whippen flange with a grey cast suggesting a chemical treatment (ammonia?)


    ------------------------------
    Blaine Hebert RPT
    Duarte CA
    (626) 390-0512
    ------------------------------



  • 19.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Posted 11-08-2023 09:28

    Hi Folks,

    To summarize: One you need equipment, one seizes the center for 24 hours, and the other turns them grey and brings you back to the farm. 

    Those don't sound like good solutions to me.

    I recently discovered TSI-301.

    Its been around for decades, its been vetted by the fishing industry as the superior lubricant.

    It was made for NASA. 

    On their website they give the complete description of how it works and it's chemical properties. They also made a friendly to plastic version called tsi321. 

    This stuff is incredible. It basically goes under any contaminate and bonds to the pores of the metal. And because of its chemical properties removes water and other contaminates from the action center. 

    Go here to see my experiments with it.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Ek2JDikgrY&t=18s

    and the vergris test.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ybiMKywjWrM&t=173s

    And the amazing fishing reel video:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2B7k_JmRiA

    Their website on how it works.

    http://tsi301.com/issynthetic.htm

    And its pretty inexpensive as well. Its a high performance compound that is a lubricant, antiseize, penetrant, and cleaner.

    Best stuff i ever found.

    -chris



    ------------------------------
    Chernobieff Piano Restorations

    "The Piano Whisperer"
    Maker of the finest maximum output piano soundboards. (Osage Orange Bridge Caps, Norway Spruce Panels, Engineered Ribs, Sustain Bar)

    Inventor of Inertia Touch Wave (Real Dynamic Inertia Control and Smoothness)

    865-986-7720 (text only please)
    ------------------------------



  • 20.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Posted 11-08-2023 09:52
    Chris,

    Thank you for posting and posting the links. 
    Here is the link to the safety data sheet of the product if anyone is interested.

    Doug Mahard






  • 21.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 11-08-2023 12:46

    I second Chris' results. It's darn good stuff.  I have added it to my CBL and...WOW!

    Peter Grey Piano Doctor 



    ------------------------------
    Peter Grey
    Stratham NH
    (603) 686-2395
    pianodoctor57@gmail.com
    ------------------------------



  • 22.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 11-08-2023 12:50
    Does it work right away or do you have to let set overnight?


    Tom Servinsky
    Registered Piano Technician
    Concert Artist Piano Technician
    Director/Conductor- Academy Orchestra
    Assist. Conductor-Treasure Coast Youth Symphony
    Clarinetist-Atlantic Classical Orchestra
    772 221 1011 office
    772 260 7110 cell





  • 23.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Posted 11-08-2023 13:00

    My first test was a hammer center with verdigris. It freed it up immediately. Went from 3 swings to 7. The second test was soaking springs, pins that were corroded. It dissolved it all overnight and left the center pins looking new.  On their website they talk about why the others lubricants don't work. They basically coat the contaminate, that's why you have to reapply. 

    Truly awesome stuff. I really like how they explain the chemistry.

    I had gone to some fishing forums about it. The ones that compete need practically zero friction in the spools for distance casting. Tsi301 came out over 2 decades as the clear performance winner.

    -chris



    ------------------------------
    Chernobieff Piano Restorations

    "The Piano Whisperer"
    Maker of the finest maximum output piano soundboards. (Osage Orange Bridge Caps, Norway Spruce Panels, Engineered Ribs, Sustain Bar)

    Inventor of Inertia Touch Wave (Real Dynamic Inertia Control and Smoothness)

    865-986-7720 (text only please)
    ------------------------------



  • 24.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Posted 11-08-2023 15:36
    Chris Cherobieff,

    How long have you been using the 301 on piano parts? It looks pretty amazing.

    Doug





  • 25.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Posted 11-08-2023 16:30
    About a month now. I wouldn't use anything else. Its that good.
    Peter also has the 321 which he is using on WNG and teflon bushings.  What I noticed is that it soaks in quickly, then is completely dry in a few minutes. You can quickly see the effect.  My tests alone doesn't mean that much compared to the hundreds that have used it in professional  competition fishing.






  • 26.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Posted 11-09-2023 19:22

    Thanks Chris for this new method for combatting verdigris!  Do you have a source website for it?



    ------------------------------
    Patrick Greene
    OWNER
    Knoxville TN
    (865) 384-6582
    ------------------------------



  • 27.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 11-09-2023 19:25

     

    Just order mine this morning at

    detectorbuy.com   

    $10 a can- very reasonable

     

     

    Tom Servinsky 

    Registered Piano Technician

    Concert Artist Piano Technician

    Director/Conductor- Academy Orchestra

    Managing Conductor-Treasure Coast Youth Symphony

    Keyboardist- Beatles Re-Imagined

    Pianist with TLC Jazz Duo

    tompiano@tomservinsky.com

    772 221 1011 office

    772 260 7110 cell

     






  • 28.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 11-08-2023 13:29

    Added it to your CBL, Peter? In what proportion?

    Alan 



    ------------------------------
    Alan Eder, RPT
    Herb Alpert School of Music
    California Institute of the Arts
    Valencia, CA
    661.904.6483
    ------------------------------



  • 29.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 11-08-2023 14:15

    Alan,

    A carefully calculated "squirt"!  

    A dinky squirt didnt change much. Actually about 5-8% I think is what I added to supercharge it. Works great!

    Peter Grey Piano Doctor 



    ------------------------------
    Peter Grey
    Stratham NH
    (603) 686-2395
    pianodoctor57@gmail.com
    ------------------------------



  • 30.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Posted 11-08-2023 14:42

    Has anyone got the reference for the previous verdigris thread that Lucinda mentioned? I presume that my approach is in it – normal use of a flange bushing reamer. Quite feasible to do in your customer's home, particularly when the main offenders are the hammershank flanges.

     

    (a) Disassemble each flange. (b) Ream the felt bushings. (c) Reassemble with a new pin that is the same size as the old one,

     

    If you haven't done the process before, start a little slowly. If you over-ream, you will need to move up to the next center pin size. You quickly get a feel for how much to ream.

     

    Regards, Norman



    ------------------------------
    Norman Brickman
    Potomac Piano Service
    Potomac, Maryland
    potomacpiano@verizon.net
    https://potomacpiano.com
    (301) 983.9321
    ------------------------------



  • 31.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-19-2024 15:16

    Norman,

    I have done this (repinning) for pianos for years, but the corrosion returns every time.  I have never found a treatment (short of soaking in ammonia) that will remove the verdigris or prevent it from recurring.  Lubricants are only temporary.

    Macro image of verdigris on flange and pin


    ------------------------------
    Blaine Hebert RPT
    Duarte CA
    (626) 390-0512
    ------------------------------



  • 32.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-19-2024 15:26
    My question was about using a jewelry cleaner on the flanges, which was recommended MANY years ago, and then sometime in the last year I thought I saw it come up again. Our chapter was going to do a compare-and-contrast program, we had good candidate flanges, and I found an appliance at a thrift store. All I needed was the process. 

    What followed was a discussion about other methods and nothing about the jewelry cleaner, and our chapter always had other things to do, so I took the thing back to the thrift store. 

    In the meantime, the most useful thing I have seen in the thread is the admission that even with our most hopeful new techniques, we are still just hoping they will last.

    Thanks all,

    Cindy Strehlow RPT





  • 33.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Posted 06-19-2024 16:29
    That's because lubricants only coat the surface and don't have a cleaning action. Try TSI-301 as it is much different and is designed to work at the molecular level. Their website explains it better than i can. Its highly regarded in other trades. And its fairly priced. Also, subscribe to my youtube channel as i experiment with a lot of stuff and you can be up to date om many new piano related things.

    -chris






  • 34.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-19-2024 16:57

    Just yesterday I dealt with this in the home. 

    My first attack was with fomblin which worked well in the bass and tenor (for whatever reason) but things were worse in the top two sections and simply would not free up consistently.  

    So I decided to use 301. I took each shank and flange off one at a time and applied 301 and started working the flange up and down as well as slight sideways pressure to squeeze out the goo which I wiped with a paper towel. Reapplied 301 and repeated till virtually no more goop squeezed out. Flange was free like a ball bearing. Repeated from 88 down through top two sections (all I really had time for and bottom two were good enough to satisfy.

    Everyone was happy 

    Peter Grey Piano Doctor



    ------------------------------
    Peter Grey
    Stratham NH
    (603) 686-2395
    pianodoctor57@gmail.com
    ------------------------------



  • 35.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-19-2024 17:52

    I ordered the TSI-321 not quite realizing this wasn't the same product. According to the website it is the same chemical but without the solvent, so it is better for using with plastics. Any ideas about what the solvent is and if it is part of the reason why it is effective with verdigris?



    ------------------------------
    Ryan Sowers RPT
    Olympia WA
    (360) 480-5648
    ------------------------------



  • 36.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Posted 06-19-2024 19:30
    Hi, Ryan,

    While the MSDS sheets on the company website aren't clear about what specific solvents are used, both of the formulations seem to work.  One just has to "play" with the volume.

    For the 301, I mix ~15cc/0.5 Fl Oz into one of the 118cc/4 Fl Oz plastic hypodermic needle bottles; and fill the rest of the bottle with CLP.

    For the 321, I mix ~5cc/0.17 Fl Oz into the same bottle; and fill the rest of the bottle with CLP.

    While one could certainly be more OCD on the measurement, either of the above seem to produce long term effects that are sufficiently similar that it doesn't seem worth the bother.

    Only FWIW, my current process for verdigris (for those owners who choose not to replace the parts), is to:

    - Use a heat gun to heat the parts (on the rails) to where things are getting bubbly,

    - Apply undiluted Fantastik cleaner (another bottle with Hypodeemic Nerdle)...work the parts a bit,

    - Wait for things to settle...maybe even see about waiting a few days,

    - Check for parts that are still sluggish, if none then,

    - Use the heat gun again to get things bubbly,

    - Apply the 321/301 to the previously treated centers...work them as seems appropriate.

    - Wait a few hours before playing.

    While the vote is still out as to long-term viability, I have performed the above operation enough times now that it seems to be a reasonably viable "fix" for a "sticky" situation.

    While I am hesitant to rein any verdigris-ed parts (the danger of damage to the bushing cloth is too great), I always keep my pinning kit handy.  This process can leave things too loose, no matter how vigilant one is.

    Fomblin - While I have used it; and like it a good deal, it is a gracious bother to deal with...right down to its penchant for creeping out of whatever container one uses and making a mess while applying it.  So far, no similar issues with the TSC lubes or Fantastic.

    One note for the environmentally conscious:  These kinds of lubricants are "forever" chemicals.  They"re called that for a reason.

    Still, as noted above, the correct fix is new parts.

    Kind regards.

    Horace




      Original Message




  • 37.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-19-2024 21:42

    I have to ask the practitioners, how much more economically viable is this multi step process compared to replacing the flanges from the get-go?



    ------------------------------
    Steven Rosenthal RPT
    Honolulu HI
    (808) 521-7129
    ------------------------------



  • 38.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Posted 06-19-2024 22:13
    Hi, Steven,

    That depends on what one's time is worth, as well as how ready the clients are to do the job properly.

    While one size does not (necessarily) fit all, the correct solution is to replace all of the affected parts.

    Kind regards.

    Horace




      Original Message




  • 39.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-20-2024 01:40

    Steven,

    The flanges are saturated with an acid-producing fatty oil that will continue releasing acetic acid as long as the flanges are saturated.  Treating with a strong ammonia solution (like Fantastic) might remove enough of the fatty acid to prevent the development of the copper acetate (verdigris) but the amount of ammonia needed will likely degrade or destroy the knuckles.  I am not a chemist, but I don't know of any way to neutralize the acid or to stabilize the acidic oils with lubricants, though they will likely work temporarily.

    Everything you do will be temporary except for replacing the parts.  

    Carefully explain this to your customer.



    ------------------------------
    Blaine Hebert RPT
    Duarte CA
    (626) 390-0512
    ------------------------------



  • 40.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-19-2024 22:12

    Thanks for the response Horace. That is an interesting idea to dilute the TSI with the Protek CLP. I'll give it a try. Has anybody else tried this?

    I agree with the heat treatment: I first read about this in Ed McMorrow's book and it's pretty effective. I usually use high heat on my Makita adjustable heat gun with a reducer nozzle. I sweep back and forth across the flanges about a dozen flanges worth keeping the nozzle a couple of inches above. The goal is to generate enough heat to instigate smoking, but without actually toasting the wood. The flanges will look wet as the paraffin or whatever flashes off. 

    Taking it in steps is wise, since over-loosening can be a problem, and loose flanges = poor tone. 



    ------------------------------
    Ryan Sowers RPT
    Olympia WA
    (360) 480-5648
    ------------------------------



  • 41.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-20-2024 08:43

    Agreed that real solution is parts replacement, however if I can get things going for a while (explained) without breaking the bank it's worth it to me and the client. 

    In the space of 5 hours I was enabled to transform a piano that no one wanted to play into one that was deemed "perfect" (though of course it was not...just way better). Naturally I also addressed neglected regulation issues like rep lever/jack and hammer blow, etc.

    Had I taken the higher logic stand of "sorry, this toast and parts need replacement..." nothing would have happened and no one would happy. I chose the remediation route with the proper understanding. 

    They know that eventually the thing needs to be rebuilt.  

    Peter Grey Piano Doctor



    ------------------------------
    Peter Grey
    Stratham NH
    (603) 686-2395
    pianodoctor57@gmail.com
    ------------------------------



  • 42.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-21-2024 11:05

    Hi folks, I have a method for removing verdigris that takes one minute per part (yes you have to unscrew it) and is permanent and there is no waiting for anything to dry. I want to put it in an article in the Journal. I've been doing this for 40 years. BUT FIRST, please send me a list of all the chemicals out there you have been using (like Fantastik) over the years. Yes, even WD-40 is on the list as well as all those center pin bushing treatments (alcohol and water, etc.) You can just respond with a one word favorite treatment. Thanks



    ------------------------------
    Randall Woltz RPT
    San Juan Capistrano CA
    (714) 731-7479
    ------------------------------



  • 43.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-21-2024 11:47

    You should also include anything you used that didn't work.  Apparently WD-40 did work for some techs around here, as I have come across actions liberally sprayed with it.  I have also spent hours trying to clean out the sticky remnants of it from flanges.  It also turns wood into mush.  WD-40 should be out of any piano tech's vocabulary. 

    I've used all the usual suspects like Protek, alcohol, acetone, Goose Juice, CBL with varying degrees of success.  I have noted that using a air gun with the above has helped force substances out of flanges by putting the nozzle directly into the flange from the side.  Various juices will emanate from the ends of the wood in the flange.  I really can't say whether these were long term fixes, but I don't recall callbacks.  YMMV.



    ------------------------------
    Paul McCloud, RPT
    Accutone Piano Service
    www.AccutonePianoService.com
    pavadasa@gmail.com
    ------------------------------



  • 44.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-21-2024 13:00
    Here’s a question for the group that may relate to the verdigris treatment question:
    Compared to, say, 5 years ago, are more or fewer of your customers opting for parts replacement? (If you can make such an estimate, that is).

    In 2020, I think my cost for wippens and hammers from Renner (including boring/hanging) was about $2200. Recently, it was up to $3800. Add the regulation required, and the cost has risen dramatically. Have you seen a slowing of replacement approvals? Or are things about the same?




  • 45.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-23-2024 12:16

    It's well and good to recommend a complete action rebuild to deal with verdigris. However, this can easily exceed $10,000 after full regulation, action balancing, and voicing-and that's not including the damper system.

    Many of the pianos I treat for verdigris belong to working-class people who have inherited a family piano. They are very excited to have an affordable option. The main thing is good communication and making sure they have proper expectations. I often tell people that this can be an ongoing problem, but that I'm happy to continue to treat it as part of my regular service. 

    Some of these pianos have been spec pianos that I've picked up inexpensively because of the verdigris. If I'm trying to maximize my time/profit equation I don't think it's worth it to replace the parts if the hammers are not too worn out. I'm always oriented towards 'most bang for the buck' solutions. 

    I've been able to see that with aggressive heat and lubrication treatments, the parts can stay free for years. 

    Another spot not to be overlooked is the repetition springs in the grub. The springs develop the same green sludge. Disengaging the springs and supporting them with rod (sitting on top of the rep levers) and cleaning and polishing/lubricating them can go fairly quick. Followed by scraping out the grub and applying a high-tech lubricant of your choice, you can make a substantial improvement in the touch without a significant time investment.



    ------------------------------
    Ryan Sowers RPT
    Olympia WA
    (360) 480-5648
    ------------------------------



  • 46.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-24-2024 10:29

    Ryan - 

    "I've been able to see that with aggressive heat and lubrication treatments, the parts can stay free for years." 

    What is your product and protocol for this? Could you write them up?

    While my experience has told me that only replacing the parts is the only complete solution, I agree that more than not, the client does not have capital to put into replacement of action parts in complete sets and the work that involves. Some are just stubborn, but that's more of a psychology issue. 

    Dave

     



    ------------------------------
    Dave Conte, RPT

    Piano Technician in Residence
    The University of Tennessee
    College of Music
    Knoxville TN
    (817) 307-5656
    Owner: Rocky Top Piano
    ------------------------------



  • 47.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-24-2024 11:11

    "I've been able to see that with aggressive heat and lubrication treatments, the parts can stay free for years."

    How many years? Good enough to last until you retire!



    ------------------------------
    Larry Messerly, RPT
    Bringing Harmony to Homes
    www.lacrossepianotuning.com
    ljmesserly@gmail.com
    928-899-7292
    ------------------------------



  • 48.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-24-2024 12:13
    Dave,

     Further up in this thread there are a couple of posts that go into detail.





  • 49.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-24-2024 12:50

    If I'm in a client's home, I start out with the heat gun. This is best done outside (I once set off the client's smoke alarm) and you want to explain carefully what you are doing to not freak out the client. I get the flanges VERY hot, as in very noticeable smoking, and I keep it up for several minutes. I try not to singe the wood, but honestly, I don't think it really matters that much. I explain to the client that the parts are old and compromised and should be replaced, but this is an inexpensive way to keep the piano working better. 

     It's very easy to demonstrate the verdigris problem by lifting and dropping the hammers. After the heat treatment, they can easy observe the parts moving much more freely. 

    I basically follow Ed McMorrows recommendation from his book The Educated Piano (pg 121):  

    "For many years Steinway lubricated its action centers with a paraffin oil which eventually gummed up the action center. In these action centers you will see a greenish color oil- verdigris-around the center pin and flange. I have tried many techniques to cure the sluggishness caused by verdigris-washing with drycleaner's perchlorethylene, shrinking, repinning-but the sluggishness always re- turns in a few months. 

    The only technique that will permanently return the action centers to a moderately serviceable condition is to burn out the oil with a heat gun. The flanges will really smoke and darken in color, but it works. 

    Do this procedure in the open air, because it creates a lot of smoke. Heat the flanges until no more oil bubbles to the surface and little smoke comes out. Usually Steinway only treated the hammer and whippen flanges, and this technique works well with them. If the oil is in the jacks and repetitions, however, you cannot use this method; the heat will destroy the glue joint in the jack and burn too much of the wood in the repetition lever flange."

    I used to follow with Protek CLP, but I've switched to Fomblin as it seems to work better and last longer. I bought some of the TSI-321 but haven't experimented with it much. After lubrication I will work the parts aggressively.  

    Again, good communication and trust along with setting realistic expectations with the client is essential. 

    How long does it last? If you do it very aggressively, I've seen this last for several years. There may be some rebound, but not usually till the point of failure. But as many things with pianos, results are somewhat unpredictable. Let the client know there may need to be follow-up.

    Did I mention good communication with the client?
    ------------------------------
    Ryan Sowers RPT
    Olympia WA
    (360) 480-5648
    ------------------------------



  • 50.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Posted 06-24-2024 11:10
    My idea was to lock up the paraffin inside wood and prevent it from traveling to the bushings and pins. I treated shanks and flanges with thinnest CA , removed bushing before and taking care of holes not been clogged. Then installed new bushings and assembled the parts. Done it 7 years ago , and still free. Rebushing is not a fun , but looks it works
    Alexander Brusilovsky




  • 51.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-24-2024 11:15

    Another tactic that works is to "clean" out all the existing goo and repin with current issue SS pre-cut center pins that have no exposed copper to react chemically. Works.

    Peter Grey Piano 2



    ------------------------------
    Peter Grey
    Stratham NH
    (603) 686-2395
    pianodoctor57@gmail.com
    ------------------------------



  • 52.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-24-2024 12:56

    This sounds like a good option, Peter! I was not aware that S&S centerpins are a different alloy than what I might have from regular suppliers. Thanks for this. 



    ------------------------------
    Ryan Sowers RPT
    Olympia WA
    (360) 480-5648
    ------------------------------



  • 53.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-24-2024 15:58

     First of all, pianos haven't accumulated where I live and it's been many years since I've encountered this myself. I don't know what the price is now but an S&S hammer flange cost $1.33 ten years ago. It seems to me that replacing the flange would be cost effective even at double the parts cost, + labor relative to the  processes described above. And the work could be guaranteed. 

    Am I that far off base?



    ------------------------------
    Steven Rosenthal RPT
    Honolulu HI
    (808) 521-7129
    ------------------------------



  • 54.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-24-2024 16:21

    Steve,

    Yes you are.  😉 

    Peter Grey Piano Doctor 



    ------------------------------
    Peter Grey
    Stratham NH
    (603) 686-2395
    pianodoctor57@gmail.com
    ------------------------------



  • 55.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-24-2024 16:26

    Peter, allow me to reword it.

    Why am I so far off base?



    ------------------------------
    Steven Rosenthal RPT
    Honolulu HI
    (808) 521-7129
    ------------------------------



  • 56.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Posted 06-24-2024 16:51
    Hmm...the 3rd baseman didn't tag you...as you were ruled "safe", you couldn't have been that far off...

    Kind regards.

    Horace



      Original Message




  • 57.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Posted 06-24-2024 16:49
    Hi, Steve,

    Nope...you're not.

    On the other hand, without regard to what the client can/cannot "afford" to do, what is one's time worth?

    LaRoy said it best...we lost money whenever we put down our hammers....

    Kind regards.

    Horace





      Original Message




  • 58.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-24-2024 19:02

    Steve,

    Since the issue is the cloth in the shank portion, replacing the flanges (AFAICS) doesn't treat it, plus the geometry changes in new flanges could complicate other stuff. Upright flanges would be a different story. 

    IDK, maybe I'm thinking wrongly...

    EDIT: Of course if you're going to clean out the goop in the bushing in conjunction then perhaps it could work. More work than I'd want to get into though. 

    Peter Grey Piano Doctor 



    ------------------------------
    Peter Grey
    Stratham NH
    (603) 686-2395
    pianodoctor57@gmail.com
    ------------------------------



  • 59.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-24-2024 19:34

    Peter, that's it. Don't know what I was thinking, I just replaced 5 shanks last week, should have been able to picture it.

    Tagged and out.



    ------------------------------
    Steven Rosenthal RPT
    Honolulu HI
    (808) 521-7129
    ------------------------------



  • 60.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Posted 06-24-2024 23:49
    Good Evening,

    It's appropriate to remember that the whole Saga of Verdigris is not a "one issue" problem.  Rather, it's a number of factors which may/may not become active issues dependent not only on manufacture; but also on the conditions in which the piano lives/has lived.

    Among those factors are included:

    - While we know about Paraffin from reputable sources, we should also remember that other substances were used too, depending on the period of manufacture; and their relative availability.  These included tallow (Freddie Drasche, among other "old-timers" at the factory talked about that)...".  And, we should remember that "tallow" can be made up of a variety of kinds of fats, including bear, beef, sheep; and, plant.

    - Moving forward: At some externally unknown point, Paraffin was substituted for tallow.

    - Later, a couple of wood preservative products were used. WoodLife was one. I can never remember the name of the other. Maybe someone else does.

    - While I have no specific knowledge of this, I suspect that the post-Paraffin products were dropped around the time of the introduction of the original Teflon bushings (smaller, no ribs). At least, I have no memory of seeing new pianos during the 60's that appeared to have had an application to any action centers of some chemical when new from the factory. (I did see many in warranty situations which had been variously runner-up.)

    But Wait! There's More:

    - One thing that I heard repeatedly from a number of "old-timers" (including both Joe and Ralph B) was that, as Joe put it, a drop of whale oil was put on each side of each hammer and rep flange "from the beginning, until we couldn't get it any more". The purpose of the whale oil being to lubricate things.

    - Then, there's the lanolin in the bushing cloth used in the flanges (and, in the hammers) up through the later 40's and early 50', when the older supplies ran out; and most of what was available was "washed" with sulphuric acid to reduce "impurities" in the wool. Talk to marketing on an industry-wide bases about that one.

    - And the brass center pins. Brass can be thought of as a subset of bronze, which is mostly copper, with ~12% tin...plus, sometimes, a variety of other metals and/or other non-metallic material. Only FWIW, the entry on brass in Wikipedia says that brass is "typically 66% copper and 34% ". That said, it may not even be clear from extant archives what the chemical composition of the brass used in piano center pins by Steinway. (Pre-cut and polished center pins are not hard to make.)

    - N.B. - I'm not sure that Steinway has ever used plated pin in their own manufacture.

    - Then, there are all the various chemical concoctions that have been tried by everyone, myself included, all in pursuit of being able to effect enough of a "fix" to be able to kick the verdigris can down the road for a few more years.

    Let's not get into the geometry discussion. There's already enough here to curdle the pudding.

    It's important to remember that we are in business to provide a service. If we are good enough at providing competent service, then usually, people give us money. With luck, we bring in enough money to provide for ourselves and our families (if we have them). Part of that process is knowing what we can and can not afford to do.

    From that perspective; and acknowledging that my strong preference to replace parts (of whatever kind, from whatever maker when they are beyond reasonable repair), I still have clients who need, for whatever reason, for the can to be kicked one more time. Sometimes, I can and do support that. Sometimes, not so much.

    So far, the method I described in an earlier post has worked as well as can be expected. Much depends on things that are simply out of our influence, let alone control. So, obviously, YMMV.

    Kind regards.

    Horace

      Original Message




  • 61.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-25-2024 08:25

    Horace,

    This is excellent historical information. Thank you! 

    It also helps explain the variability of this ailment. I have found that sometimes a once-and-done cleanup actually works for a long time, whereas another unit aggressively returns in shirt order. Additionally I have noticed different shades of the green which not SEEMS to make some sense if they were changing their tactics due to supply issues or whatever. However: 

    Why couldn't they just LEAVE IT ALONE!? like every other maker? (Although I did find verdigris in a Mason & Hamlin once)

    Oh well...probably tied in with another dumb PR campaign...we do know that they proudly advertised the fact that they were dipping their parts in boiling paraffin oil...

    Peter Grey Piano Doctor 



    ------------------------------
    Peter Grey
    Stratham NH
    (603) 686-2395
    pianodoctor57@gmail.com
    ------------------------------



  • 62.  RE: verdigris remediation

    Registered Piano Technician
    Posted 06-25-2024 11:34
    Horace,
    So many variables associated with this issue, as you’ve clearly pointed out.
    There may be one more that no one else has mentioned so I question its veracity. I remember an S&S representative….ages ago…. Mentioning that the cloth used for the bushings was treated routinely with a moth prevention chemical (not sure what) that adds to the mix for the chemical reaction.
    Does anyone else ever remember hearing this or did I just get misinformation?

    Regards,
    ~ jeannie

    Jeannie Grassi
    PTG Registered Piano Technician
    Bainbridge Island, WA
    206-842-3721
    grassipianos@gmail.com