Agreed that real solution is parts replacement, however if I can get things going for a while (explained) without breaking the bank it's worth it to me and the client.
In the space of 5 hours I was enabled to transform a piano that no one wanted to play into one that was deemed "perfect" (though of course it was not...just way better). Naturally I also addressed neglected regulation issues like rep lever/jack and hammer blow, etc.
Had I taken the higher logic stand of "sorry, this toast and parts need replacement..." nothing would have happened and no one would happy. I chose the remediation route with the proper understanding.
Original Message:
Sent: 06-19-2024 22:11
From: Ryan Sowers
Subject: verdigris remediation
Thanks for the response Horace. That is an interesting idea to dilute the TSI with the Protek CLP. I'll give it a try. Has anybody else tried this?
I agree with the heat treatment: I first read about this in Ed McMorrow's book and it's pretty effective. I usually use high heat on my Makita adjustable heat gun with a reducer nozzle. I sweep back and forth across the flanges about a dozen flanges worth keeping the nozzle a couple of inches above. The goal is to generate enough heat to instigate smoking, but without actually toasting the wood. The flanges will look wet as the paraffin or whatever flashes off.
Taking it in steps is wise, since over-loosening can be a problem, and loose flanges = poor tone.
------------------------------
Ryan Sowers RPT
Olympia WA
(360) 480-5648
Original Message:
Sent: 06-19-2024 19:29
From: Horace Greeley
Subject: verdigris remediation
Hi, Ryan,
While the MSDS sheets on the company website aren't clear about what specific solvents are used, both of the formulations seem to work. One just has to "play" with the volume.
For the 301, I mix ~15cc/0.5 Fl Oz into one of the 118cc/4 Fl Oz plastic hypodermic needle bottles; and fill the rest of the bottle with CLP.
For the 321, I mix ~5cc/0.17 Fl Oz into the same bottle; and fill the rest of the bottle with CLP.
While one could certainly be more OCD on the measurement, either of the above seem to produce long term effects that are sufficiently similar that it doesn't seem worth the bother.
Only FWIW, my current process for verdigris (for those owners who choose not to replace the parts), is to:
- Use a heat gun to heat the parts (on the rails) to where things are getting bubbly,
- Apply undiluted Fantastik cleaner (another bottle with Hypodeemic Nerdle)...work the parts a bit,
- Wait for things to settle...maybe even see about waiting a few days,
- Check for parts that are still sluggish, if none then,
- Use the heat gun again to get things bubbly,
- Apply the 321/301 to the previously treated centers...work them as seems appropriate.
- Wait a few hours before playing.
While the vote is still out as to long-term viability, I have performed the above operation enough times now that it seems to be a reasonably viable "fix" for a "sticky" situation.
While I am hesitant to rein any verdigris-ed parts (the danger of damage to the bushing cloth is too great), I always keep my pinning kit handy. This process can leave things too loose, no matter how vigilant one is.
Fomblin - While I have used it; and like it a good deal, it is a gracious bother to deal with...right down to its penchant for creeping out of whatever container one uses and making a mess while applying it. So far, no similar issues with the TSC lubes or Fantastic.
One note for the environmentally conscious: These kinds of lubricants are "forever" chemicals. They"re called that for a reason.
Still, as noted above, the correct fix is new parts.
Kind regards.
Horace
Original Message
Original Message:
Sent: 6/19/2024 5:52:00 PM
From: Ryan Sowers
Subject: RE: verdigris remediation
I ordered the TSI-321 not quite realizing this wasn't the same product. According to the website it is the same chemical but without the solvent, so it is better for using with plastics. Any ideas about what the solvent is and if it is part of the reason why it is effective with verdigris?
------------------------------
Ryan Sowers RPT
Olympia WA
(360) 480-5648
Original Message:
Sent: 06-19-2024 16:56
From: Peter Grey
Subject: verdigris remediation
Just yesterday I dealt with this in the home.
My first attack was with fomblin which worked well in the bass and tenor (for whatever reason) but things were worse in the top two sections and simply would not free up consistently.
So I decided to use 301. I took each shank and flange off one at a time and applied 301 and started working the flange up and down as well as slight sideways pressure to squeeze out the goo which I wiped with a paper towel. Reapplied 301 and repeated till virtually no more goop squeezed out. Flange was free like a ball bearing. Repeated from 88 down through top two sections (all I really had time for and bottom two were good enough to satisfy.
Everyone was happy
Peter Grey Piano Doctor
------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com
Original Message:
Sent: 06-19-2024 16:28
From: Chris Chernobieff
Subject: verdigris remediation
That's because lubricants only coat the surface and don't have a cleaning action. Try TSI-301 as it is much different and is designed to work at the molecular level. Their website explains it better than i can. Its highly regarded in other trades. And its fairly priced. Also, subscribe to my youtube channel as i experiment with a lot of stuff and you can be up to date om many new piano related things.
-chris
Original Message:
Sent: 6/19/2024 3:26:00 PM
From: Lucinda Strehlow
Subject: RE: verdigris remediation
My question was about using a jewelry cleaner on the flanges, which was recommended MANY years ago, and then sometime in the last year I thought I saw it come up again. Our chapter was going to do a compare-and-contrast program, we had good candidate flanges, and I found an appliance at a thrift store. All I needed was the process.
What followed was a discussion about other methods and nothing about the jewelry cleaner, and our chapter always had other things to do, so I took the thing back to the thrift store.
In the meantime, the most useful thing I have seen in the thread is the admission that even with our most hopeful new techniques, we are still just hoping they will last.
Thanks all,
Cindy Strehlow RPT
Original Message:
Sent: 6/19/2024 3:16:00 PM
From: Blaine Hebert
Subject: RE: verdigris remediation
Norman,
I have done this (repinning) for pianos for years, but the corrosion returns every time. I have never found a treatment (short of soaking in ammonia) that will remove the verdigris or prevent it from recurring. Lubricants are only temporary.
------------------------------
Blaine Hebert RPT
Duarte CA
(626) 390-0512
Original Message:
Sent: 11-08-2023 14:42
From: Norman Brickman
Subject: verdigris remediation
Has anyone got the reference for the previous verdigris thread that Lucinda mentioned? I presume that my approach is in it – normal use of a flange bushing reamer. Quite feasible to do in your customer's home, particularly when the main offenders are the hammershank flanges.
(a) Disassemble each flange. (b) Ream the felt bushings. (c) Reassemble with a new pin that is the same size as the old one,
If you haven't done the process before, start a little slowly. If you over-ream, you will need to move up to the next center pin size. You quickly get a feel for how much to ream.
Regards, Norman
------------------------------
Norman Brickman
Potomac Piano Service
Potomac, Maryland
potomacpiano@verizon.net
https://potomacpiano.com
(301) 983.9321
Original Message:
Sent: 11-08-2023 14:15
From: Peter Grey
Subject: verdigris remediation
Alan,
A carefully calculated "squirt"!
A dinky squirt didnt change much. Actually about 5-8% I think is what I added to supercharge it. Works great!
Peter Grey Piano Doctor
------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com
Original Message:
Sent: 11-08-2023 13:28
From: Alan Eder
Subject: verdigris remediation
Added it to your CBL, Peter? In what proportion?
Alan
------------------------------
Alan Eder, RPT
Herb Alpert School of Music
California Institute of the Arts
Valencia, CA
661.904.6483
Original Message:
Sent: 11-08-2023 12:45
From: Peter Grey
Subject: verdigris remediation
I second Chris' results. It's darn good stuff. I have added it to my CBL and...WOW!
Peter Grey Piano Doctor
------------------------------
Peter Grey
Stratham NH
(603) 686-2395
pianodoctor57@gmail.com
Original Message:
Sent: 11-08-2023 09:52
From: Douglas Mahard
Subject: verdigris remediation
Chris,
Thank you for posting and posting the links.
Here is the link to the safety data sheet of the product if anyone is interested.
Doug Mahard
Original Message:
Sent: 11/8/2023 9:28:00 AM
From: Chris Chernobieff
Subject: RE: verdigris remediation
Hi Folks,
To summarize: One you need equipment, one seizes the center for 24 hours, and the other turns them grey and brings you back to the farm.
Those don't sound like good solutions to me.
I recently discovered TSI-301.
Its been around for decades, its been vetted by the fishing industry as the superior lubricant.
It was made for NASA.
On their website they give the complete description of how it works and it's chemical properties. They also made a friendly to plastic version called tsi321.
This stuff is incredible. It basically goes under any contaminate and bonds to the pores of the metal. And because of its chemical properties removes water and other contaminates from the action center.
Go here to see my experiments with it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Ek2JDikgrY&t=18s
and the vergris test.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ybiMKywjWrM&t=173s
And the amazing fishing reel video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2B7k_JmRiA
Their website on how it works.
http://tsi301.com/issynthetic.htm
And its pretty inexpensive as well. Its a high performance compound that is a lubricant, antiseize, penetrant, and cleaner.
Best stuff i ever found.
-chris
------------------------------
Chernobieff Piano Restorations
"The Piano Whisperer"
Maker of the finest maximum output piano soundboards. (Osage Orange Bridge Caps, Norway Spruce Panels, Engineered Ribs, Sustain Bar)
Inventor of Inertia Touch Wave (Real Dynamic Inertia Control and Smoothness)
865-986-7720 (text only please)
Original Message:
Sent: 11-06-2023 21:36
From: Lucinda Strehlow
Subject: verdigris remediation
Some time ago (a year? or two?) there was a good-sized thread about various ways to deal with verdigris. Our chapter had plans to do some experimenting, and our program coordinator was sent a pile of infected shanks and flanges. I snared a sonic jewelry cleaner from the thrift store, (I can't remember if this was part of the semi-recent thread, but I remember there was some enthusiasm about it years ago), why not try that too, for fun if nothing else?
The plans got put on the back-burner but may resurface this season. In the meantime I would sure love to see that thread again. John Minor recently sent our chapter links to the Jim Moy stuff, but neither of us could turn up this thread.
If any of you can retrieve it, much appreciated.
Thanks,
Cindy Strehlow RPT, Central Illinois Chapter
------------------------------
Cindy Strehlow, RPT
Urbana, IL
------------------------------