In Ireland, what we call mineral oil is known as "paraffin oil," which I think is a much better description of the stuff, which is after all a petroleum derivative. Historically, I believe mineral oil was once the most common treatment far whatever ailed pianos, and I wouldn't be surprised if it was not also used as a prophylactic treatment as well. It is not hard to envision what happens when the more volatile components of mineral oil gradually evaporate over time. What you're left with is paraffin, or simply wax. Repinning will of course not remedy this because the stuff is in the bushing cloth. And remember the center pins themselves, though they look like steel, are in fact an alloy of brass composed of copper, zinc and other metals, all of which are subject to oxidation over time. I've tried to dissolve wax in many different kinds of solvents, none of which had the slightest effect. The CDC, I recall reading, has unrefrigerated tissue samples from the WW I era preserved in wax (of Spanish influenza and other nasty stuff.) Wax lasts forever, you'll never succeed in dissolving it or washing it away. I've used naphtha and dimethyl silicone oil myself to treat verdigris, and as others have already noted, it is at best a temporary fix.
The best solution to the problem is of course to replace the parts. It is also, in the long run, the most cost-effective solution. Most of these pianos are Steinways from the 1920s if not earlier. The wood is often brittle with age, especially if its been in a dry climate. However, I'm not adverse to offering my customers other solutions if they feel they can't afford this. Sometimes you may find that the the problem is confined primarily to one set of centers or another. The hammer flanges, jack centers and whippen flanges are all pinned separately to begin with and with different specs as far as tightness. Sometimes you may find that only the hammer flanges are a problem. Other times, it is the jack centers. In this situation I may offer to rebush and repin only the offending set of centers. (Repinning alone is just a waste of time--you have to replace the bushing cloth.) Of course I make clear this is only a partial cure, but often this stop-gap solution may be the best fit for the customer. (And think of all the problems involved with replacement parts which you are circumventing.) I have yet to rebush and repin all the centers in an action, as this would cost almost as much in labor as you'd be saving in parts, but I have done sets of hammer flanges and/or jack centers, and it's a repair which is useful and good as far as it goes. (Use Renner flange bushing cloth, nothing else compares.) Take some time to analyze the action before you throw up your hands or turn up your nose. Perhaps there is a solution both you and your customer can live with.
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Cecil Snyder
Torrance CA
310-542-7108
Original Message:
Sent: 10-27-2016 00:27
From: Blaine Hebert
Subject: verdigris treatment
I worked for a small dealer in Hollywood (anyone remember Charlie Crenshaw?) and he took in many verdigris Steinways. Over many years I watched him hose down dozens of actions with gallons of lighter fluid, leaving the actions in the sun, heating them and we tried everything we could think of to remedy the corrosion... all to no avail.
I have had many a customer with locked-up treble sections that I repinned every year, only to have to repin again the next year.
Since this is a problem with a natural oil (probably an animal fat or vegetable oil) that degrades, producing acetic acid, which reacts with copper to produce the copper-acetate gum that we know and love I often wonder if ammonia might react and neutralize the acid. I had to clean off a thick layer of verdigris from a naked Steinway action frame and ammonia did work, but slowly and with lots of elbow grease. I have not tried using ammonia on parts, but my last set was so thoroughly gummed up that I would not bother with anything except new parts. As it was I had to scrub off the keys as well - someone hosed down the balance rail with something like WD-40 (or crankcase oil).
If there was a magic cure we would all be using it by now... recommend new parts! If they can't afford that just keep repining and dousing with ProTek.
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Blaine Hebert
Duarte CA
626-795-5170
Original Message:
Sent: 10-26-2016 23:27
From: Willem Blees
Subject: verdigris treatment
Jeff
Presumably you've all the responses. Sine there really is no "cure" for the verdigris, I would suggest you charge them repin the hammer flanges, but tell the customer that the best solution is new parts, and to start saving their money. Perhaps, as an incentive, tell them you'll give them credit for half the amount they spent on the repining if they agree to have you put on a new set of hammers, shanks and flanges within 2 years.
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Willem "Wim" Blees, RPT
Mililani, HI 96789
Original Message:
Sent: 10-26-2016 13:59
From: Jeff Farris
Subject: verdigris treatment
Hi all,
My client cannot afford new parts on their 1919 Steinway M. Besides Protek, what other treatments have had decent success. I remember back in the day someone talking about Wild Turkey, but I haven't tried it yet. Not on piano parts anyway.
Thanks for any suggestions (within reason),
Jeff Farris
Austin, TX
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Jeff Farris
Austin TX
512-636-1914
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