Geoff,
Your initial posts are right-on regarding what has to be done. The picture shows a beautiful installation with the sostenuto tabs evenly and presumably correctly showing under the sostenuto blade rod. We are assuming the whole set looks like that. As you reported, the damper stop rail, lift rail and right pedal are all functioning nicely and should be left alone at this time. We are also assuming that the left-right position of the spoon ends is correct for the action at rest
and with the shift function. When bending spoons, be careful not to change this left-right position.
I have done dozens of these installations and regulations in the factories and in our shop. What we learned to do was choose
guide dampers at the ends of the sections. The guides will be from white key notes and we avoid any of those notes near a plate brace where the damper has been offset to avoid hitting the plate. I use a small piece of tape on those damper heads to remind me which notes I am working with.
Using one of your jigs (ours is a vertically-adjustable thing with a piece of thin veneer taped to the end of the arm) with the action on the bench, use the guide keys (marked with chalk) to adjust the jig so it is caught by the key end felt when the hammer is half way to the string. We have not made a big science of this and done it by eye. Let's assume all measurements are pretty much around the same for all sections. Transfer this jig measurement to the guide key spoons. As mentioned, to bend the spoons you can use an upright damper spoon bender if it fits the spoon neck diameter or use a needle nose pliers.
When the guides are set, with the action back in the piano, test each guide note by placing a finger
lightly on top of the damper head and pushing down the key of the guide note to judge if the damper starts to move when the hammer is half way to the string. As I check each guide note, if I think the spoon should be moved slightly I make a chalk mark on the plate near the guides either to move the spoon down (mark a V on the plate) or up (mark a carat ^). How much to move the spoon is shown by the size of the mark (a v or a V for example). With experience, doing all sections at once and making the marks minimizes the number of times the action has to be taken out and put back in the piano. You can probably check the sostenuto function of the guide notes around this time. From your description of the situation, all should be correct.
When you are happy with the spoon heights of the guide notes, remove the action, put a straight edge (ruler or shop-made straight edge - we had varying lengths for the different sections of the models on which we worked) under the two guide spoons and match the others to fit in a nice line, section by section. This should adjust everything considering all the other parameters and also a string height that is not perfectly straight across (going section by section should account for that).
Hope this gives some insight into a factory procedure.
Best regards from Texas.....Joel Rappaport
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Priscilla Rappaport
Rappaport's Piano Workshop
Round Rock TX
512-255-0440
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Original Message:
Sent: 06-03-2020 10:57
From: Geoff Sykes
Subject: Damper timing question
Aha! Yes, of course. A jig. I have both the Spurlock and LaRoy Edwards let-off jigs. Those would be perfect. Thanks everyone!
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Geoff Sykes, RPT
Los Angeles CA
Original Message:
Sent: 06-03-2020 06:20
From: Jon Page
Subject: Damper timing question
The underlever arms need to be level. First use a jig to set their height via the set screw in the top flange. Then use a jig to set the spoon height. Bend the spoon downward to lift sooner.
I use a hex head bolt in a block as a jig. For the underlevers, I have a large washer affixed to the bolt to reach.
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Regards,
Jon Page
mailto:jonpage@comcast.net
http://www.pianocapecod.com
Original Message:
Sent: 06-03-2020 01:20
From: Paul McCloud
Subject: Damper timing question
A Spurlock jig placed over the key end felt will give you the height of the jig blade. Then place the jig in the action cavity with the edge of the blade just under the spoons. If the lift using the damper pedal is already sufficient to clear the strings, and the sostenuto tabs are just below the sostenuto blade, just bend the spoons so they just touch the top surface of the jig. A damper wire bending tool will do the job, though probably almost anything will work. The jig will get you really close to having the proper damper timing. The last thing to adjust is the capstans under the underlevers for simultaneous damper lift.
If the damper blocks and sostenuto tabs aren't in a line and the timing is off and dampers are lifting unevenly due to the felt settling, here's what I do:
If you don't have the Spurlock jig, you'll need to make one, or use whatever jig you can get. The usual one has a 1/2 or 3/4" wide blade, with a thumb screw to anchor it to a rod attached to a block. You know what I'm talking about. Do one underlever at a time with that jig. With the Spurlock jig you can do many at once.
Most of the time the sostenuto blade is in the correct position, so loosening the underlever block screws and moving the wire in and out of the damper blocks so that the sostenuto tabs are in the correct position should be your first procedure. Often, the damper felt has settled so that the damper blocks are sitting too low for the sostenuto to work properly.
First, loosen the screws on the damper blocks. Use shims under the damper tray or under the damper pedal to raise the damper blocks as close as possible to the right position. Because the capstans are likely not evenly set, use the damper tray to get them close, then adjust the capstans to get a very even line. Tighten the screws in the damper blocks gently. Progressively tighten them more in several passes, using pliers or vice grips to straighten the damper heads over the strings so they don't twist as you raise the dampers. Then use the Spurlock or other jig to adjust the spoons for even lift of the key in proper timing. Do one section at a time, and test a few notes with the action back inside before committing to doing them all. When you have the damper blocks evenly hung on the wires, remove the shims/wedges and let the damper tray hang down. Use the pedal to see if the dampers are lifting simultaneously. If not, adjust the capstans to even the lift.
Don't forget to also adjust the upstop rail so the damper underlevers aren't jamming into it when using the pedal. There should be a little extra movement of the damper heads when the pedal is depressed fully.
Clear as mud?
Paul McCloud
San Diego
Original Message:
Sent: 6/2/2020 8:23:00 PM
From: Geoff Sykes
Subject: Damper timing question
7' Schimmel grand from 1992. In excellent condition except for damper timing. Lift from damper pedal is just high enough for the sostonuto rail to grab the sostonuto tabs on every note. But when playing a note the damper does not come up soon enough nor high enough for the sostonuto rail to grab that little tab. Because damper timing is late, and lift is low, I'm thinking to adjust damper timing so it lifts sooner and, therefore, lifts higher. But this piano uses spoons for that adjustment. (see pic)
Today's question: What is the most efficient method of adjusting grand piano damper lift spoons so that everything comes out even?
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Geoff Sykes, RPT
Los Angeles CA
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