Pianotech

I recently brought in a 1981 Kawai grand that had surface rust all over (from living a mile from the Atlantic for much of it's existence). Although the overall tone was not bad, I couldn't help but wonder if there would be any improvement by cleaning up as much of the rust as I could (it was slated for restringing anyway due to loose tuning pins). 

I spent better than an hour polishing up the strings the best I could. Then a tuning (I had previously tuned it in its rough state just to get a fair idea of it's potential). In the process of this tuning a d subsequent playing, I felt that there was in fact a global improvement in the instrument as a result. The tone "seemed" cleaner and more focused. Whether it was a psychological response (because I wanted it) or whether it was in fact real...I cannot say for sure. It was not huge, but enough to appear noticeable. The piano is now getting readied for restringing so it's out of commission.

Another piano, a 1959 Steinway L was restrung and re-hammered 10 years ago, but has lived also on the seacoast (literally in this case), and when I came to it the wire was (is) totally brown with rust. I asked the owner if they had a tendency to open the doors and windows in good weather and he said: "All the time!" Needless to say that answered my question as to the rust. Otherwise the piano played and sounded fine...just plain ugly. And since the purpose of my visit was to assess for sale value, I had to downgrade it's potential significantly as a result of all the corrosion. Too bad.

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

I recently brought in a 1981 Kawai grand that had surface rust all over (from living a mile from the Atlantic for much of it's existence). Although the overall tone was not bad, I couldn't help but wonder if there would be any improvement by cleaning up as much of the rust as I could (it was slated for restringing anyway due to loose tuning pins). 

I spent better than an hour polishing up the strings the best I could. Then a tuning (I had previously tuned it in its rough state just to get a fair idea of it's potential). In the process of this tuning a d subsequent playing, I felt that there was in fact a global improvement in the instrument as a result. The tone "seemed" cleaner and more focused. Whether it was a psychological response (because I wanted it) or whether it was in fact real...I cannot say for sure. It was not huge, but enough to appear noticeable. The piano is now getting readied for restringing so it's out of commission.

Another piano, a 1959 Steinway L was restrung and re-hammered 10 years ago, but has lived also on the seacoast (literally in this case), and when I came to it the wire was (is) totally brown with rust. I asked the owner if they had a tendency to open the doors and windows in good weather and he said: "All the time!" Needless to say that answered my question as to the rust. Otherwise the piano played and sounded fine...just plain ugly. And since the purpose of my visit was to assess for sale value, I had to downgrade it's potential significantly as a result of all the corrosion. Too bad.

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

I have clients who live right on the Atlantic ocean who have totally destroyed their pianos by opening windows and doors to smell the ocean air. Not only do the string get deeply rusted and pitted by the actions seize up and wood and felts are compromised. Houses away from the beach can have similar problems because people like fresh air or want a nice breeze. Many times the rust can be just surface rust formed by the dew point getting too high .The rust in this case is on the surface of the string and will wipe off with a cloth . However rust can be so severe and it forms pits in the strings that most definitely weaken the string and affects the sound. Any rust at the coils and tuning pins, bridge pins and hitch pins is a problem that can and will affect string bearing and rendering . When it comes to bass strings and rust chances are the rust will have a major impact on the sound. I have tried all types of things on bass strings to improve them with very limited success. 

There was a church here with a Yamaha C7 that sat in the sanctuary without air conditioning for about 3 weeks. It had to be totally re-strung because of the amount of string rust. 

In some cases strings may improve with some cleaning but I think it depends how deep the rust is and where

I recently brought in a 1981 Kawai grand that had surface rust all over (from living a mile from the Atlantic for much of it's existence). Although the overall tone was not bad, I couldn't help but wonder if there would be any improvement by cleaning up as much of the rust as I could (it was slated for restringing anyway due to loose tuning pins). 

I spent better than an hour polishing up the strings the best I could. Then a tuning (I had previously tuned it in its rough state just to get a fair idea of it's potential). In the process of this tuning a d subsequent playing, I felt that there was in fact a global improvement in the instrument as a result. The tone "seemed" cleaner and more focused. Whether it was a psychological response (because I wanted it) or whether it was in fact real...I cannot say for sure. It was not huge, but enough to appear noticeable. The piano is now getting readied for restringing so it's out of commission.

Another piano, a 1959 Steinway L was restrung and re-hammered 10 years ago, but has lived also on the seacoast (literally in this case), and when I came to it the wire was (is) totally brown with rust. I asked the owner if they had a tendency to open the doors and windows in good weather and he said: "All the time!" Needless to say that answered my question as to the rust. Otherwise the piano played and sounded fine...just plain ugly. And since the purpose of my visit was to assess for sale value, I had to downgrade it's potential significantly as a result of all the corrosion. Too bad.

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

I have clients who live right on the Atlantic ocean who have totally destroyed their pianos by opening windows and doors to smell the ocean air. Not only do the string get deeply rusted and pitted by the actions seize up and wood and felts are compromised. Houses away from the beach can have similar problems because people like fresh air or want a nice breeze. Many times the rust can be just surface rust formed by the dew point getting too high .The rust in this case is on the surface of the string and will wipe off with a cloth . However rust can be so severe and it forms pits in the strings that most definitely weaken the string and affects the sound. Any rust at the coils and tuning pins, bridge pins and hitch pins is a problem that can and will affect string bearing and rendering . When it comes to bass strings and rust chances are the rust will have a major impact on the sound. I have tried all types of things on bass strings to improve them with very limited success. 

There was a church here with a Yamaha C7 that sat in the sanctuary without air conditioning for about 3 weeks. It had to be totally re-strung because of the amount of string rust. 

In some cases strings may improve with some cleaning but I think it depends how deep the rust is and where

I recently brought in a 1981 Kawai grand that had surface rust all over (from living a mile from the Atlantic for much of it's existence). Although the overall tone was not bad, I couldn't help but wonder if there would be any improvement by cleaning up as much of the rust as I could (it was slated for restringing anyway due to loose tuning pins). 

I spent better than an hour polishing up the strings the best I could. Then a tuning (I had previously tuned it in its rough state just to get a fair idea of it's potential). In the process of this tuning a d subsequent playing, I felt that there was in fact a global improvement in the instrument as a result. The tone "seemed" cleaner and more focused. Whether it was a psychological response (because I wanted it) or whether it was in fact real...I cannot say for sure. It was not huge, but enough to appear noticeable. The piano is now getting readied for restringing so it's out of commission.

Another piano, a 1959 Steinway L was restrung and re-hammered 10 years ago, but has lived also on the seacoast (literally in this case), and when I came to it the wire was (is) totally brown with rust. I asked the owner if they had a tendency to open the doors and windows in good weather and he said: "All the time!" Needless to say that answered my question as to the rust. Otherwise the piano played and sounded fine...just plain ugly. And since the purpose of my visit was to assess for sale value, I had to downgrade it's potential significantly as a result of all the corrosion. Too bad.

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

Thanks to all for your replies. This piano was donated to a church. Don't know it's history but it's not been touched in years. Cause of the rust is unknown, but it's mostly just a thin even coating. No pitting or flaking. When I tuned it yesterday only a couple of bass notes gave me a slight "tick" sound when the string released through the agraffe, but otherwise, after the pitch raise, it tuned up nicely and without problems. Not even any false beats. Thank you for recommending the Protek treatment of bearing points and coils. Don't know why I didn't think to do that right from the get-go, but it's on the list for next visit. 

Neither the church, nor I, am interested in a serious cleaning of the strings. Not really in the budget, especially since the piano is otherwise happy and clean. However, is there a way I could quickly pretty them up a bit without having to destabilize the tuning? Quick brush with non-oily steel wool for instance?

Thanks to all for your replies. This piano was donated to a church. Don't know it's history but it's not been touched in years. Cause of the rust is unknown, but it's mostly just a thin even coating. No pitting or flaking. When I tuned it yesterday only a couple of bass notes gave me a slight "tick" sound when the string released through the agraffe, but otherwise, after the pitch raise, it tuned up nicely and without problems. Not even any false beats. Thank you for recommending the Protek treatment of bearing points and coils. Don't know why I didn't think to do that right from the get-go, but it's on the list for next visit. 

Neither the church, nor I, am interested in a serious cleaning of the strings. Not really in the budget, especially since the piano is otherwise happy and clean. However, is there a way I could quickly pretty them up a bit without having to destabilize the tuning? Quick brush with non-oily steel wool for instance?

I used "fret erasers" I bought from Stew Mac, the online guitar repair site. 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

Thanks to all for your replies. This piano was donated to a church. Don't know it's history but it's not been touched in years. Cause of the rust is unknown, but it's mostly just a thin even coating. No pitting or flaking. When I tuned it yesterday only a couple of bass notes gave me a slight "tick" sound when the string released through the agraffe, but otherwise, after the pitch raise, it tuned up nicely and without problems. Not even any false beats. Thank you for recommending the Protek treatment of bearing points and coils. Don't know why I didn't think to do that right from the get-go, but it's on the list for next visit. 

Neither the church, nor I, am interested in a serious cleaning of the strings. Not really in the budget, especially since the piano is otherwise happy and clean. However, is there a way I could quickly pretty them up a bit without having to destabilize the tuning? Quick brush with non-oily steel wool for instance?

The Schaff product that Wim mentions is now simply called "Steel Polish" it did have some sort of brand name before. It's a rubber bar impregnated with emory. 
As another islander, rust is very common, the patina of rust you describe is generally not too troublesome. The string cover helps a lot, if you look closely at the coils, you'll probably see that the top coil is the one that's rusting, likewise, if you take the string off the hitch pin you will see that bottom of the wire is much less corroded than the top, if at all. Bottom line, it is the dust that settles on the string that holds the moisture long enough to corrode.
When the rust progresses, what I have found is that it can degrade the tone quite a bit. The formerly smooth wire is now covered with flakes and I think that dampens partials in uneven ways and the thickness of the wire is also now compromised and uneven. The result can be dull or nasty sounding treble sections.
Another problem is that if there is rust present it's like a contagion. I've replaced strings and found it hard to distinguish the new wires after just a few year's time. Even if you polish the old wires, if the rust dust is till present, it will likely reappear on the strings. And after polishing, the strings are still going to be pitted, they look better but they aren't as good as wire that hasn't been corroded.

There's also a product called Bull Frog rust inhibitor, you can find it at 'The Rust Store'. The local dealer includes their Bull Frog Emitter Shield with all of his new pianos. It emits a molecule that binds with metal and inhibits rust. I think it will even slow down rust that's already started. 

I used "fret erasers" I bought from Stew Mac, the online guitar repair site. 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

Thanks to all for your replies. This piano was donated to a church. Don't know it's history but it's not been touched in years. Cause of the rust is unknown, but it's mostly just a thin even coating. No pitting or flaking. When I tuned it yesterday only a couple of bass notes gave me a slight "tick" sound when the string released through the agraffe, but otherwise, after the pitch raise, it tuned up nicely and without problems. Not even any false beats. Thank you for recommending the Protek treatment of bearing points and coils. Don't know why I didn't think to do that right from the get-go, but it's on the list for next visit. 

Neither the church, nor I, am interested in a serious cleaning of the strings. Not really in the budget, especially since the piano is otherwise happy and clean. However, is there a way I could quickly pretty them up a bit without having to destabilize the tuning? Quick brush with non-oily steel wool for instance?

Thanks to all for your replies. This piano was donated to a church. Don't know it's history but it's not been touched in years. Cause of the rust is unknown, but it's mostly just a thin even coating. No pitting or flaking. When I tuned it yesterday only a couple of bass notes gave me a slight "tick" sound when the string released through the agraffe, but otherwise, after the pitch raise, it tuned up nicely and without problems. Not even any false beats. Thank you for recommending the Protek treatment of bearing points and coils. Don't know why I didn't think to do that right from the get-go, but it's on the list for next visit. 

Neither the church, nor I, am interested in a serious cleaning of the strings. Not really in the budget, especially since the piano is otherwise happy and clean. However, is there a way I could quickly pretty them up a bit without having to destabilize the tuning? Quick brush with non-oily steel wool for instance?

Thanks to all for your replies. This piano was donated to a church. Don't know it's history but it's not been touched in years. Cause of the rust is unknown, but it's mostly just a thin even coating. No pitting or flaking. When I tuned it yesterday only a couple of bass notes gave me a slight "tick" sound when the string released through the agraffe, but otherwise, after the pitch raise, it tuned up nicely and without problems. Not even any false beats. Thank you for recommending the Protek treatment of bearing points and coils. Don't know why I didn't think to do that right from the get-go, but it's on the list for next visit. 

Neither the church, nor I, am interested in a serious cleaning of the strings. Not really in the budget, especially since the piano is otherwise happy and clean. However, is there a way I could quickly pretty them up a bit without having to destabilize the tuning? Quick brush with non-oily steel wool for instance?

I tested a metal polish similar to FLITZ and it does polish steel well and quickly, BUT, in a corrosion test it actually corroded the strings over time.  I don't recommend metal polish.

Cleaning or polishing strings is best done before a tuning, I don't know any way to manipulate strings that wouldn't affect tuning.  On the other hand, a light cleaning before a tuning might render strings through the bridge and might result in a more stable tuning.

I tested a metal polish similar to FLITZ and it does polish steel well and quickly, BUT, in a corrosion test it actually corroded the strings over time.  I don't recommend metal polish.

Cleaning or polishing strings is best done before a tuning, I don't know any way to manipulate strings that wouldn't affect tuning.  On the other hand, a light cleaning before a tuning might render strings through the bridge and might result in a more stable tuning.

I tested a metal polish similar to FLITZ and it does polish steel well and quickly, BUT, in a corrosion test it actually corroded the strings over time.  I don't recommend metal polish.

Cleaning or polishing strings is best done before a tuning, I don't know any way to manipulate strings that wouldn't affect tuning.  On the other hand, a light cleaning before a tuning might render strings through the bridge and might result in a more stable tuning.

Thanks to all for your replies. This piano was donated to a church. Don't know it's history but it's not been touched in years. Cause of the rust is unknown, but it's mostly just a thin even coating. No pitting or flaking. When I tuned it yesterday only a couple of bass notes gave me a slight "tick" sound when the string released through the agraffe, but otherwise, after the pitch raise, it tuned up nicely and without problems. Not even any false beats. Thank you for recommending the Protek treatment of bearing points and coils. Don't know why I didn't think to do that right from the get-go, but it's on the list for next visit. 

Neither the church, nor I, am interested in a serious cleaning of the strings. Not really in the budget, especially since the piano is otherwise happy and clean. However, is there a way I could quickly pretty them up a bit without having to destabilize the tuning? Quick brush with non-oily steel wool for instance?

A few years ago I performed a series of tests using a variety of materials to prevent corrosion.  I tested WD40, museum waxes, oils, Ballistol and other materials and after over 6 months in a corrosive environment (under a covered southern California patio) I rated each material for its effectiveness at preventing rust.  WD 40 and Ballistol came out somewhere in the middle, the best results were with a furniture wax (Howards Feed n Wax) and oddly enough, Marvel Mystery Oil (a car engine additive).  Steel polish like FLITZ and MAAS were actually corrosive, they may leave a deposit that attracts water and increases rust.

I tested a metal polish similar to FLITZ and it does polish steel well and quickly, BUT, in a corrosion test it actually corroded the strings over time.  I don't recommend metal polish.

Cleaning or polishing strings is best done before a tuning, I don't know any way to manipulate strings that wouldn't affect tuning.  On the other hand, a light cleaning before a tuning might render strings through the bridge and might result in a more stable tuning.

Thanks to all for your replies. This piano was donated to a church. Don't know it's history but it's not been touched in years. Cause of the rust is unknown, but it's mostly just a thin even coating. No pitting or flaking. When I tuned it yesterday only a couple of bass notes gave me a slight "tick" sound when the string released through the agraffe, but otherwise, after the pitch raise, it tuned up nicely and without problems. Not even any false beats. Thank you for recommending the Protek treatment of bearing points and coils. Don't know why I didn't think to do that right from the get-go, but it's on the list for next visit. 

Neither the church, nor I, am interested in a serious cleaning of the strings. Not really in the budget, especially since the piano is otherwise happy and clean. However, is there a way I could quickly pretty them up a bit without having to destabilize the tuning? Quick brush with non-oily steel wool for instance?

Gotta be careful about putting anything on strings that could seep into wood.  Remember the guy who used to oil pianos.  His favorite was Tribotech, an engine additive, which he used on bridge pins.  If you're rubbing it on strings with a cloth, make sure it's not going to seep anywhere.  Just enough to coat the string with bare minimum.  But you knew that.  I used to use fine steel wool on old bass strings, but only rubbing longitudinally, not across perpendicular.  That would get into the windings.  

Thanks for doing the testing.  I would imagine regular motor oil would also work.  Did you try that?

A few years ago I performed a series of tests using a variety of materials to prevent corrosion.  I tested WD40, museum waxes, oils, Ballistol and other materials and after over 6 months in a corrosive environment (under a covered southern California patio) I rated each material for its effectiveness at preventing rust.  WD 40 and Ballistol came out somewhere in the middle, the best results were with a furniture wax (Howards Feed n Wax) and oddly enough, Marvel Mystery Oil (a car engine additive).  Steel polish like FLITZ and MAAS were actually corrosive, they may leave a deposit that attracts water and increases rust.

I tested a metal polish similar to FLITZ and it does polish steel well and quickly, BUT, in a corrosion test it actually corroded the strings over time.  I don't recommend metal polish.

Cleaning or polishing strings is best done before a tuning, I don't know any way to manipulate strings that wouldn't affect tuning.  On the other hand, a light cleaning before a tuning might render strings through the bridge and might result in a more stable tuning.

Thanks to all for your replies. This piano was donated to a church. Don't know it's history but it's not been touched in years. Cause of the rust is unknown, but it's mostly just a thin even coating. No pitting or flaking. When I tuned it yesterday only a couple of bass notes gave me a slight "tick" sound when the string released through the agraffe, but otherwise, after the pitch raise, it tuned up nicely and without problems. Not even any false beats. Thank you for recommending the Protek treatment of bearing points and coils. Don't know why I didn't think to do that right from the get-go, but it's on the list for next visit. 

Neither the church, nor I, am interested in a serious cleaning of the strings. Not really in the budget, especially since the piano is otherwise happy and clean. However, is there a way I could quickly pretty them up a bit without having to destabilize the tuning? Quick brush with non-oily steel wool for instance?

The Steinway Worldwide Technical Reference Guide says this:

 
"Preparation for Tuning

Check strings for discoloration/corrosion and clean with a pad (like Scotch-Brite or steel wool) or 
light benzene in order to minimize the occurrence of false beats."

I have used a green Scotch pad and it worked well to remove light rust. 

But I live in the dessert so rust isn't much of a problem here. 

It is possible that the cleaning process might seat or render strings at the bridge and reduce false beats and increase stability.  Might not be a bad idea, though I would never touch strings after a tuning.

It is possible that the cleaning process might seat or render strings at the bridge and reduce false beats and increase stability.  Might not be a bad idea, though I would never touch strings after a tuning.

The Steinway Worldwide Technical Reference Guide says this:

 
"Preparation for Tuning

Check strings for discoloration/corrosion and clean with a pad (like Scotch-Brite or steel wool) or 
light benzene in order to minimize the occurrence of false beats."

I have used a green Scotch pad and it worked well to remove light rust. 

But I live in the dessert so rust isn't much of a problem here. 

It is possible that the cleaning process might seat or render strings at the bridge and reduce false beats and increase stability.  Might not be a bad idea, though I would never touch strings after a tuning.

The Steinway Worldwide Technical Reference Guide says this:

 
"Preparation for Tuning

Check strings for discoloration/corrosion and clean with a pad (like Scotch-Brite or steel wool) or 
light benzene in order to minimize the occurrence of false beats."

I have used a green Scotch pad and it worked well to remove light rust. 

But I live in the dessert so rust isn't much of a problem here. 

One of my R.P.T. friends treats all of his piano wire with silicone. It seals the steel and helps in rendering at the bearing points. He sprays the coils, then wipes it with a rag as he loads it into a "film can". I'd be interested to see someone in a corrosive environment try it and report how it holds up. One advantage is that it turns into a solid and won't creep along the wire. A guy in our area would spray WD40 on the termination points for tuning. Problem with an oil is that it stays liquid and ends up following the wire into the pinblock. I can't count the amount for pianos ruined around here!

Best wishes!

It is possible that the cleaning process might seat or render strings at the bridge and reduce false beats and increase stability.  Might not be a bad idea, though I would never touch strings after a tuning.

One of my R.P.T. friends treats all of his piano wire with silicone. It seals the steel and helps in rendering at the bearing points. He sprays the coils, then wipes it with a rag as he loads it into a "film can". I'd be interested to see someone in a corrosive environment try it and report how it holds up. One advantage is that it turns into a solid and won't creep along the wire. A guy in our area would spray WD40 on the termination points for tuning. Problem with an oil is that it stays liquid and ends up following the wire into the pinblock. I can't count the amount for pianos ruined around here!

Best wishes!

One of my R.P.T. friends treats all of his piano wire with silicone. It seals the steel and helps in rendering at the bearing points. He sprays the coils, then wipes it with a rag as he loads it into a "film can". I'd be interested to see someone in a corrosive environment try it and report how it holds up. One advantage is that it turns into a solid and won't creep along the wire. A guy in our area would spray WD40 on the termination points for tuning. Problem with an oil is that it stays liquid and ends up following the wire into the pinblock. I can't count the amount for pianos ruined around here!

Best wishes!

It is possible that the cleaning process might seat or render strings at the bridge and reduce false beats and increase stability.  Might not be a bad idea, though I would never touch strings after a tuning.

The Steinway Worldwide Technical Reference Guide says this:

 
"Preparation for Tuning

Check strings for discoloration/corrosion and clean with a pad (like Scotch-Brite or steel wool) or 
light benzene in order to minimize the occurrence of false beats."

I have used a green Scotch pad and it worked well to remove light rust. 

But I live in the dessert so rust isn't much of a problem here. 

Unfortunately, I think any guild member spraying silicone into pianos should be investigated and disciplined. Especially if there's a trail of ruined pianos behind. 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

One of my R.P.T. friends treats all of his piano wire with silicone. It seals the steel and helps in rendering at the bearing points. He sprays the coils, then wipes it with a rag as he loads it into a "film can". I'd be interested to see someone in a corrosive environment try it and report how it holds up. One advantage is that it turns into a solid and won't creep along the wire. A guy in our area would spray WD40 on the termination points for tuning. Problem with an oil is that it stays liquid and ends up following the wire into the pinblock. I can't count the amount for pianos ruined around here!

Best wishes!

It is possible that the cleaning process might seat or render strings at the bridge and reduce false beats and increase stability.  Might not be a bad idea, though I would never touch strings after a tuning.

Unfortunately, I think any guild member spraying silicone into pianos should be investigated and disciplined. Especially if there's a trail of ruined pianos behind. 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

One of my R.P.T. friends treats all of his piano wire with silicone. It seals the steel and helps in rendering at the bearing points. He sprays the coils, then wipes it with a rag as he loads it into a "film can". I'd be interested to see someone in a corrosive environment try it and report how it holds up. One advantage is that it turns into a solid and won't creep along the wire. A guy in our area would spray WD40 on the termination points for tuning. Problem with an oil is that it stays liquid and ends up following the wire into the pinblock. I can't count the amount for pianos ruined around here!

Best wishes!

It is possible that the cleaning process might seat or render strings at the bridge and reduce false beats and increase stability.  Might not be a bad idea, though I would never touch strings after a tuning.

The Steinway Worldwide Technical Reference Guide says this:

 
"Preparation for Tuning

Check strings for discoloration/corrosion and clean with a pad (like Scotch-Brite or steel wool) or 
light benzene in order to minimize the occurrence of false beats."

I have used a green Scotch pad and it worked well to remove light rust. 

But I live in the dessert so rust isn't much of a problem here. 

As our weather starts to warm up from spring to early summer I plan to conduct a series of tests with piano wire suspended from a jig I made to sort out strings I took out of a Hardman Peck grand in my shop/garage. I plan to have an untreated new steel string and a few strings wiped down with various products such as Ballistol , non silicone rust prevention (used by Boeing) McLube (sailkote)  StewMac guitar string wipe, I planned to do this last August but the summer here was brutal with many days where air conditioners could not keep up Some of the pianos I maintain equipped with Dampp Chaser

dehumidifier bars had trouble and piano pitch and unisons went wild. In any event I am also go to suspend a LASCAR data logger from the jig that will record temp/rh and dew point 24 x 7 . Other plans are to take pictures of the strings with a small microscope to detect changes on the string surface. I expect there will be string flash rusting due to the moisture that will collect on the steel overnight. Most morning here the dew point is in the 90's , grass is wet, car windows collect moisture.  I will have a duplicate jig and strings inside my home which is both air conditioned and humidity controlled.

I have a full Dampp Chaser in my Yamaha G2 and a woolen Dawson String Cover. My rh is in the low to mid 50's and the dehumidifier rods are just warm . I advise clients constantly to monitor their HVAC and the importance of humidity control. Although I think rust could be accelerated if there is dust on the strings it will begin to form when the dew point is just right. leave a tool outside over night and it will begin to rust 

Unfortunately, I think any guild member spraying silicone into pianos should be investigated and disciplined. Especially if there's a trail of ruined pianos behind. 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

One of my R.P.T. friends treats all of his piano wire with silicone. It seals the steel and helps in rendering at the bearing points. He sprays the coils, then wipes it with a rag as he loads it into a "film can". I'd be interested to see someone in a corrosive environment try it and report how it holds up. One advantage is that it turns into a solid and won't creep along the wire. A guy in our area would spray WD40 on the termination points for tuning. Problem with an oil is that it stays liquid and ends up following the wire into the pinblock. I can't count the amount for pianos ruined around here!

Best wishes!

It is possible that the cleaning process might seat or render strings at the bridge and reduce false beats and increase stability.  Might not be a bad idea, though I would never touch strings after a tuning.

The Steinway Worldwide Technical Reference Guide says this:

 
"Preparation for Tuning

Check strings for discoloration/corrosion and clean with a pad (like Scotch-Brite or steel wool) or 
light benzene in order to minimize the occurrence of false beats."

I have used a green Scotch pad and it worked well to remove light rust. 

But I live in the dessert so rust isn't much of a problem here. 

Does anyone know what the active ingredient is in these rust-inhibitor papers?  You see them in a host of applications and they work by diffusing an aerosol coating to exposed metal surfaces that coats them and blocks the formation of rust.  I've used them for many years in my tool drawers along with a patch of felt to protect my chisels, drill bits, etc.   They certainly do the job but it occurs to me to wonder if silicone is one of the constituents of their formulation.  I can understand their hesitation to advertise their active ingredients but I'm not sure it's entirely due to their concern for protecting their copyright when it could be easily analyzed by any competitor by running a sample through a spectroscope.

As our weather starts to warm up from spring to early summer I plan to conduct a series of tests with piano wire suspended from a jig I made to sort out strings I took out of a Hardman Peck grand in my shop/garage. I plan to have an untreated new steel string and a few strings wiped down with various products such as Ballistol , non silicone rust prevention (used by Boeing) McLube (sailkote)  StewMac guitar string wipe, I planned to do this last August but the summer here was brutal with many days where air conditioners could not keep up Some of the pianos I maintain equipped with Dampp Chaser

dehumidifier bars had trouble and piano pitch and unisons went wild. In any event I am also go to suspend a LASCAR data logger from the jig that will record temp/rh and dew point 24 x 7 . Other plans are to take pictures of the strings with a small microscope to detect changes on the string surface. I expect there will be string flash rusting due to the moisture that will collect on the steel overnight. Most morning here the dew point is in the 90's , grass is wet, car windows collect moisture.  I will have a duplicate jig and strings inside my home which is both air conditioned and humidity controlled.

I have a full Dampp Chaser in my Yamaha G2 and a woolen Dawson String Cover. My rh is in the low to mid 50's and the dehumidifier rods are just warm . I advise clients constantly to monitor their HVAC and the importance of humidity control. Although I think rust could be accelerated if there is dust on the strings it will begin to form when the dew point is just right. leave a tool outside over night and it will begin to rust 

Unfortunately, I think any guild member spraying silicone into pianos should be investigated and disciplined. Especially if there's a trail of ruined pianos behind. 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

One of my R.P.T. friends treats all of his piano wire with silicone. It seals the steel and helps in rendering at the bearing points. He sprays the coils, then wipes it with a rag as he loads it into a "film can". I'd be interested to see someone in a corrosive environment try it and report how it holds up. One advantage is that it turns into a solid and won't creep along the wire. A guy in our area would spray WD40 on the termination points for tuning. Problem with an oil is that it stays liquid and ends up following the wire into the pinblock. I can't count the amount for pianos ruined around here!

Best wishes!

It is possible that the cleaning process might seat or render strings at the bridge and reduce false beats and increase stability.  Might not be a bad idea, though I would never touch strings after a tuning.

The Steinway Worldwide Technical Reference Guide says this:

 
"Preparation for Tuning

Check strings for discoloration/corrosion and clean with a pad (like Scotch-Brite or steel wool) or 
light benzene in order to minimize the occurrence of false beats."

I have used a green Scotch pad and it worked well to remove light rust. 

But I live in the dessert so rust isn't much of a problem here. 

Honestly, I rarely worry about surface rust on the wire unless it's actually pitting or causing rendering issues at the friction points. I've serviced plenty of older Baldwins and Yamahas with that ugly brown coating where the pitch raises went completely smoothly, and the tone didn't suffer at all. Unless the customer is paying for a full restringing or is obsessed with looks, I just leave them alone, scrubbing them down usually creates more mess and metal dust than it's worth. As long as it passes the tuning pin torque test and renders clean, it's fine.