Pianotech

You all seem awfully negative about the possibilities. Having done the replacement job several times, I don't think it should really be all that awful, assuming the piano doesn't have any other major technical issues.??

Just get ecsaine, remove the corfam, glue on the ecsaine. Putting some white glue on the piece of ecsaine, and one drop of CA glue on the catch will enable the glue to set up very quickly, saving you any need for clamping. For the hammer butt, where the jack will slide along, it's best to glue the ends. Put one drop of CA down near the butt felt, being careful not to wet it, glue on that end, once they all have set up, you can put another drop up near the other end, pull on the ecsaine (a modest amount of white glue on it), and stick it down. Of course it's easier with the hammer assemblies out, which means a spacing issue putting them back in. You can make that easier if you do a light hammer filing while they are out.

A Baldwin Hamilton isn't all that bad an upright, except for the corfam. The corfam isn't the company's fault. It was a crazy time, which suede in women's garments was all the rage, and the cost of the leather went through the roof. A Baldwin Hamilton from that era can be a good workhorse for a piano teacher. And you won't get any more of this quality of Baldwin, given that they went bankrupt, changed hands, and the factory moved to China. China has so many difficulties, mostly chronic, that the future of that factory is in grave doubt. Best to save what we have, and some corfam shouldn't stop us dead in our tracks.

You all seem awfully negative about the possibilities. Having done the replacement job several times, I don't think it should really be all that awful, assuming the piano doesn't have any other major technical issues.??

Just get ecsaine, remove the corfam, glue on the ecsaine. Putting some white glue on the piece of ecsaine, and one drop of CA glue on the catch will enable the glue to set up very quickly, saving you any need for clamping. For the hammer butt, where the jack will slide along, it's best to glue the ends. Put one drop of CA down near the butt felt, being careful not to wet it, glue on that end, once they all have set up, you can put another drop up near the other end, pull on the ecsaine (a modest amount of white glue on it), and stick it down. Of course it's easier with the hammer assemblies out, which means a spacing issue putting them back in. You can make that easier if you do a light hammer filing while they are out.

A Baldwin Hamilton isn't all that bad an upright, except for the corfam. The corfam isn't the company's fault. It was a crazy time, which suede in women's garments was all the rage, and the cost of the leather went through the roof. A Baldwin Hamilton from that era can be a good workhorse for a piano teacher. And you won't get any more of this quality of Baldwin, given that they went bankrupt, changed hands, and the factory moved to China. China has so many difficulties, mostly chronic, that the future of that factory is in grave doubt. Best to save what we have, and some corfam shouldn't stop us dead in our tracks.

You all seem awfully negative about the possibilities. Having done the replacement job several times, I don't think it should really be all that awful, assuming the piano doesn't have any other major technical issues.??

Just get ecsaine, remove the corfam, glue on the ecsaine. Putting some white glue on the piece of ecsaine, and one drop of CA glue on the catch will enable the glue to set up very quickly, saving you any need for clamping. For the hammer butt, where the jack will slide along, it's best to glue the ends. Put one drop of CA down near the butt felt, being careful not to wet it, glue on that end, once they all have set up, you can put another drop up near the other end, pull on the ecsaine (a modest amount of white glue on it), and stick it down. Of course it's easier with the hammer assemblies out, which means a spacing issue putting them back in. You can make that easier if you do a light hammer filing while they are out.

A Baldwin Hamilton isn't all that bad an upright, except for the corfam. The corfam isn't the company's fault. It was a crazy time, which suede in women's garments was all the rage, and the cost of the leather went through the roof. A Baldwin Hamilton from that era can be a good workhorse for a piano teacher. And you won't get any more of this quality of Baldwin, given that they went bankrupt, changed hands, and the factory moved to China. China has so many difficulties, mostly chronic, that the future of that factory is in grave doubt. Best to save what we have, and some corfam shouldn't stop us dead in our tracks.

Baldwin used to send out packets of precut ecsaine for this repair when the pianos were still under warranty. The pieces for both places were the same dimensions. Schaff's ecsaine also comes in two thicknesses. My guess (purely a guess) would be that the thinner version is probably the right one.

You can figure out what size you need by removing a hammer assembly, taking off the corfam carefully, and measuring. Then make samples of ecsaine, and install them to see if they are right.

The best way to make the right sized pieces from a bulk sheet is to buy a quilter's cutting mat (green with yellow lines on it) and a rotary cutter. You'll need a very good metal straight edge. I have a great one, metal, was intended to be a carpet installer's stair tool. I had it for cutting mats when framing pictures.

I'll see if I can find you the right gear on Amazon ...

mat: 18"x24" is a comfortable size, though I have a bigger one for cutting certain things.

https://smile.amazon.com/US-Art-Supply-Professional-Scrapbooking/dp/B00L5I8RII/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2E8DWL9PF3MCS&keywords=quilter%27s%2Bcutting%2Bmat&qid=1661408144&sprefix=quilter%27s%2Bcuttin%2Caps%2C4002&sr=8-1-spons&smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB&th=1

cutter -- Fiskars, that's the one. Be sure not to cut yourself. It's wicked sharp. Not a bad idea to have a spare blade in case you get a ding on the first one.

https://smile.amazon.com/Fiskars-Classic-Stick-Rotary-Cutter/dp/B005NAG9BQ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=5T3PHXCW7SCW&keywords=rotary+cutter&qid=1661408238&sprefix=rotary+cutter%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-5

You all seem awfully negative about the possibilities. Having done the replacement job several times, I don't think it should really be all that awful, assuming the piano doesn't have any other major technical issues.??

Just get ecsaine, remove the corfam, glue on the ecsaine. Putting some white glue on the piece of ecsaine, and one drop of CA glue on the catch will enable the glue to set up very quickly, saving you any need for clamping. For the hammer butt, where the jack will slide along, it's best to glue the ends. Put one drop of CA down near the butt felt, being careful not to wet it, glue on that end, once they all have set up, you can put another drop up near the other end, pull on the ecsaine (a modest amount of white glue on it), and stick it down. Of course it's easier with the hammer assemblies out, which means a spacing issue putting them back in. You can make that easier if you do a light hammer filing while they are out.

A Baldwin Hamilton isn't all that bad an upright, except for the corfam. The corfam isn't the company's fault. It was a crazy time, which suede in women's garments was all the rage, and the cost of the leather went through the roof. A Baldwin Hamilton from that era can be a good workhorse for a piano teacher. And you won't get any more of this quality of Baldwin, given that they went bankrupt, changed hands, and the factory moved to China. China has so many difficulties, mostly chronic, that the future of that factory is in grave doubt. Best to save what we have, and some corfam shouldn't stop us dead in our tracks.

Baldwin used to send out packets of precut ecsaine for this repair when the pianos were still under warranty. The pieces for both places were the same dimensions. Schaff's ecsaine also comes in two thicknesses. My guess (purely a guess) would be that the thinner version is probably the right one.

You can figure out what size you need by removing a hammer assembly, taking off the corfam carefully, and measuring. Then make samples of ecsaine, and install them to see if they are right.

The best way to make the right sized pieces from a bulk sheet is to buy a quilter's cutting mat (green with yellow lines on it) and a rotary cutter. You'll need a very good metal straight edge. I have a great one, metal, was intended to be a carpet installer's stair tool. I had it for cutting mats when framing pictures.

I'll see if I can find you the right gear on Amazon ...

mat: 18"x24" is a comfortable size, though I have a bigger one for cutting certain things.

https://smile.amazon.com/US-Art-Supply-Professional-Scrapbooking/dp/B00L5I8RII/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2E8DWL9PF3MCS&keywords=quilter%27s%2Bcutting%2Bmat&qid=1661408144&sprefix=quilter%27s%2Bcuttin%2Caps%2C4002&sr=8-1-spons&smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB&th=1

cutter -- Fiskars, that's the one. Be sure not to cut yourself. It's wicked sharp. Not a bad idea to have a spare blade in case you get a ding on the first one.

https://smile.amazon.com/Fiskars-Classic-Stick-Rotary-Cutter/dp/B005NAG9BQ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=5T3PHXCW7SCW&keywords=rotary+cutter&qid=1661408238&sprefix=rotary+cutter%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-5

You all seem awfully negative about the possibilities. Having done the replacement job several times, I don't think it should really be all that awful, assuming the piano doesn't have any other major technical issues.??

Just get ecsaine, remove the corfam, glue on the ecsaine. Putting some white glue on the piece of ecsaine, and one drop of CA glue on the catch will enable the glue to set up very quickly, saving you any need for clamping. For the hammer butt, where the jack will slide along, it's best to glue the ends. Put one drop of CA down near the butt felt, being careful not to wet it, glue on that end, once they all have set up, you can put another drop up near the other end, pull on the ecsaine (a modest amount of white glue on it), and stick it down. Of course it's easier with the hammer assemblies out, which means a spacing issue putting them back in. You can make that easier if you do a light hammer filing while they are out.

A Baldwin Hamilton isn't all that bad an upright, except for the corfam. The corfam isn't the company's fault. It was a crazy time, which suede in women's garments was all the rage, and the cost of the leather went through the roof. A Baldwin Hamilton from that era can be a good workhorse for a piano teacher. And you won't get any more of this quality of Baldwin, given that they went bankrupt, changed hands, and the factory moved to China. China has so many difficulties, mostly chronic, that the future of that factory is in grave doubt. Best to save what we have, and some corfam shouldn't stop us dead in our tracks.

Baldwin used to send out packets of precut ecsaine for this repair when the pianos were still under warranty. The pieces for both places were the same dimensions. Schaff's ecsaine also comes in two thicknesses. My guess (purely a guess) would be that the thinner version is probably the right one.

You can figure out what size you need by removing a hammer assembly, taking off the corfam carefully, and measuring. Then make samples of ecsaine, and install them to see if they are right.

The best way to make the right sized pieces from a bulk sheet is to buy a quilter's cutting mat (green with yellow lines on it) and a rotary cutter. You'll need a very good metal straight edge. I have a great one, metal, was intended to be a carpet installer's stair tool. I had it for cutting mats when framing pictures.

I'll see if I can find you the right gear on Amazon ...

mat: 18"x24" is a comfortable size, though I have a bigger one for cutting certain things.

https://smile.amazon.com/US-Art-Supply-Professional-Scrapbooking/dp/B00L5I8RII/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2E8DWL9PF3MCS&keywords=quilter%27s%2Bcutting%2Bmat&qid=1661408144&sprefix=quilter%27s%2Bcuttin%2Caps%2C4002&sr=8-1-spons&smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB&th=1

cutter -- Fiskars, that's the one. Be sure not to cut yourself. It's wicked sharp. Not a bad idea to have a spare blade in case you get a ding on the first one.

https://smile.amazon.com/Fiskars-Classic-Stick-Rotary-Cutter/dp/B005NAG9BQ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=5T3PHXCW7SCW&keywords=rotary+cutter&qid=1661408238&sprefix=rotary+cutter%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-5

You all seem awfully negative about the possibilities. Having done the replacement job several times, I don't think it should really be all that awful, assuming the piano doesn't have any other major technical issues.??

Just get ecsaine, remove the corfam, glue on the ecsaine. Putting some white glue on the piece of ecsaine, and one drop of CA glue on the catch will enable the glue to set up very quickly, saving you any need for clamping. For the hammer butt, where the jack will slide along, it's best to glue the ends. Put one drop of CA down near the butt felt, being careful not to wet it, glue on that end, once they all have set up, you can put another drop up near the other end, pull on the ecsaine (a modest amount of white glue on it), and stick it down. Of course it's easier with the hammer assemblies out, which means a spacing issue putting them back in. You can make that easier if you do a light hammer filing while they are out.

A Baldwin Hamilton isn't all that bad an upright, except for the corfam. The corfam isn't the company's fault. It was a crazy time, which suede in women's garments was all the rage, and the cost of the leather went through the roof. A Baldwin Hamilton from that era can be a good workhorse for a piano teacher. And you won't get any more of this quality of Baldwin, given that they went bankrupt, changed hands, and the factory moved to China. China has so many difficulties, mostly chronic, that the future of that factory is in grave doubt. Best to save what we have, and some corfam shouldn't stop us dead in our tracks.

Baldwin used to send out packets of precut ecsaine for this repair when the pianos were still under warranty. The pieces for both places were the same dimensions. Schaff's ecsaine also comes in two thicknesses. My guess (purely a guess) would be that the thinner version is probably the right one.

You can figure out what size you need by removing a hammer assembly, taking off the corfam carefully, and measuring. Then make samples of ecsaine, and install them to see if they are right.

The best way to make the right sized pieces from a bulk sheet is to buy a quilter's cutting mat (green with yellow lines on it) and a rotary cutter. You'll need a very good metal straight edge. I have a great one, metal, was intended to be a carpet installer's stair tool. I had it for cutting mats when framing pictures.

I'll see if I can find you the right gear on Amazon ...

mat: 18"x24" is a comfortable size, though I have a bigger one for cutting certain things.

https://smile.amazon.com/US-Art-Supply-Professional-Scrapbooking/dp/B00L5I8RII/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2E8DWL9PF3MCS&keywords=quilter%27s%2Bcutting%2Bmat&qid=1661408144&sprefix=quilter%27s%2Bcuttin%2Caps%2C4002&sr=8-1-spons&smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB&th=1

cutter -- Fiskars, that's the one. Be sure not to cut yourself. It's wicked sharp. Not a bad idea to have a spare blade in case you get a ding on the first one.

https://smile.amazon.com/Fiskars-Classic-Stick-Rotary-Cutter/dp/B005NAG9BQ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=5T3PHXCW7SCW&keywords=rotary+cutter&qid=1661408238&sprefix=rotary+cutter%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-5

You all seem awfully negative about the possibilities. Having done the replacement job several times, I don't think it should really be all that awful, assuming the piano doesn't have any other major technical issues.??

Just get ecsaine, remove the corfam, glue on the ecsaine. Putting some white glue on the piece of ecsaine, and one drop of CA glue on the catch will enable the glue to set up very quickly, saving you any need for clamping. For the hammer butt, where the jack will slide along, it's best to glue the ends. Put one drop of CA down near the butt felt, being careful not to wet it, glue on that end, once they all have set up, you can put another drop up near the other end, pull on the ecsaine (a modest amount of white glue on it), and stick it down. Of course it's easier with the hammer assemblies out, which means a spacing issue putting them back in. You can make that easier if you do a light hammer filing while they are out.

A Baldwin Hamilton isn't all that bad an upright, except for the corfam. The corfam isn't the company's fault. It was a crazy time, which suede in women's garments was all the rage, and the cost of the leather went through the roof. A Baldwin Hamilton from that era can be a good workhorse for a piano teacher. And you won't get any more of this quality of Baldwin, given that they went bankrupt, changed hands, and the factory moved to China. China has so many difficulties, mostly chronic, that the future of that factory is in grave doubt. Best to save what we have, and some corfam shouldn't stop us dead in our tracks.

My dad grew up in Connecticut and New York. My grandad was a Manhattan patent attorney.

I spent a summer at Dartmouth ... Zoltan Kodaly signed my copy of the solo sonata. And a summer in Connecticut at a Yale chamber music course out in the country.

I've read various fairly old books, mostly British, pre-computer, even pre-TV. (The garden was a lot better before I got the computer web connection.) And I spent nine years in Canada. My diploma from the George Brown two year course (Toronto) has a gold seal with a little blue ribbon, which has "Honours" printed on it in gold letters.

("Chequered past" as they would spell it.)

Not sure the exact arrival of "wicked sharp."

Baldwin used to send out packets of precut ecsaine for this repair when the pianos were still under warranty. The pieces for both places were the same dimensions. Schaff's ecsaine also comes in two thicknesses. My guess (purely a guess) would be that the thinner version is probably the right one.

You can figure out what size you need by removing a hammer assembly, taking off the corfam carefully, and measuring. Then make samples of ecsaine, and install them to see if they are right.

The best way to make the right sized pieces from a bulk sheet is to buy a quilter's cutting mat (green with yellow lines on it) and a rotary cutter. You'll need a very good metal straight edge. I have a great one, metal, was intended to be a carpet installer's stair tool. I had it for cutting mats when framing pictures.

I'll see if I can find you the right gear on Amazon ...

mat: 18"x24" is a comfortable size, though I have a bigger one for cutting certain things.

https://smile.amazon.com/US-Art-Supply-Professional-Scrapbooking/dp/B00L5I8RII/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2E8DWL9PF3MCS&keywords=quilter%27s%2Bcutting%2Bmat&qid=1661408144&sprefix=quilter%27s%2Bcuttin%2Caps%2C4002&sr=8-1-spons&smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB&th=1

cutter -- Fiskars, that's the one. Be sure not to cut yourself. It's wicked sharp. Not a bad idea to have a spare blade in case you get a ding on the first one.

https://smile.amazon.com/Fiskars-Classic-Stick-Rotary-Cutter/dp/B005NAG9BQ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=5T3PHXCW7SCW&keywords=rotary+cutter&qid=1661408238&sprefix=rotary+cutter%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-5

You all seem awfully negative about the possibilities. Having done the replacement job several times, I don't think it should really be all that awful, assuming the piano doesn't have any other major technical issues.??

Just get ecsaine, remove the corfam, glue on the ecsaine. Putting some white glue on the piece of ecsaine, and one drop of CA glue on the catch will enable the glue to set up very quickly, saving you any need for clamping. For the hammer butt, where the jack will slide along, it's best to glue the ends. Put one drop of CA down near the butt felt, being careful not to wet it, glue on that end, once they all have set up, you can put another drop up near the other end, pull on the ecsaine (a modest amount of white glue on it), and stick it down. Of course it's easier with the hammer assemblies out, which means a spacing issue putting them back in. You can make that easier if you do a light hammer filing while they are out.

A Baldwin Hamilton isn't all that bad an upright, except for the corfam. The corfam isn't the company's fault. It was a crazy time, which suede in women's garments was all the rage, and the cost of the leather went through the roof. A Baldwin Hamilton from that era can be a good workhorse for a piano teacher. And you won't get any more of this quality of Baldwin, given that they went bankrupt, changed hands, and the factory moved to China. China has so many difficulties, mostly chronic, that the future of that factory is in grave doubt. Best to save what we have, and some corfam shouldn't stop us dead in our tracks.

Baldwin used to send out packets of precut ecsaine for this repair when the pianos were still under warranty. The pieces for both places were the same dimensions. Schaff's ecsaine also comes in two thicknesses. My guess (purely a guess) would be that the thinner version is probably the right one.

You can figure out what size you need by removing a hammer assembly, taking off the corfam carefully, and measuring. Then make samples of ecsaine, and install them to see if they are right.

The best way to make the right sized pieces from a bulk sheet is to buy a quilter's cutting mat (green with yellow lines on it) and a rotary cutter. You'll need a very good metal straight edge. I have a great one, metal, was intended to be a carpet installer's stair tool. I had it for cutting mats when framing pictures.

I'll see if I can find you the right gear on Amazon ...

mat: 18"x24" is a comfortable size, though I have a bigger one for cutting certain things.

https://smile.amazon.com/US-Art-Supply-Professional-Scrapbooking/dp/B00L5I8RII/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2E8DWL9PF3MCS&keywords=quilter%27s%2Bcutting%2Bmat&qid=1661408144&sprefix=quilter%27s%2Bcuttin%2Caps%2C4002&sr=8-1-spons&smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB&th=1

cutter -- Fiskars, that's the one. Be sure not to cut yourself. It's wicked sharp. Not a bad idea to have a spare blade in case you get a ding on the first one.

https://smile.amazon.com/Fiskars-Classic-Stick-Rotary-Cutter/dp/B005NAG9BQ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=5T3PHXCW7SCW&keywords=rotary+cutter&qid=1661408238&sprefix=rotary+cutter%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-5

You all seem awfully negative about the possibilities. Having done the replacement job several times, I don't think it should really be all that awful, assuming the piano doesn't have any other major technical issues.??

Just get ecsaine, remove the corfam, glue on the ecsaine. Putting some white glue on the piece of ecsaine, and one drop of CA glue on the catch will enable the glue to set up very quickly, saving you any need for clamping. For the hammer butt, where the jack will slide along, it's best to glue the ends. Put one drop of CA down near the butt felt, being careful not to wet it, glue on that end, once they all have set up, you can put another drop up near the other end, pull on the ecsaine (a modest amount of white glue on it), and stick it down. Of course it's easier with the hammer assemblies out, which means a spacing issue putting them back in. You can make that easier if you do a light hammer filing while they are out.

A Baldwin Hamilton isn't all that bad an upright, except for the corfam. The corfam isn't the company's fault. It was a crazy time, which suede in women's garments was all the rage, and the cost of the leather went through the roof. A Baldwin Hamilton from that era can be a good workhorse for a piano teacher. And you won't get any more of this quality of Baldwin, given that they went bankrupt, changed hands, and the factory moved to China. China has so many difficulties, mostly chronic, that the future of that factory is in grave doubt. Best to save what we have, and some corfam shouldn't stop us dead in our tracks.

Baldwin used to send out packets of precut ecsaine for this repair when the pianos were still under warranty. The pieces for both places were the same dimensions. Schaff's ecsaine also comes in two thicknesses. My guess (purely a guess) would be that the thinner version is probably the right one.

You can figure out what size you need by removing a hammer assembly, taking off the corfam carefully, and measuring. Then make samples of ecsaine, and install them to see if they are right.

The best way to make the right sized pieces from a bulk sheet is to buy a quilter's cutting mat (green with yellow lines on it) and a rotary cutter. You'll need a very good metal straight edge. I have a great one, metal, was intended to be a carpet installer's stair tool. I had it for cutting mats when framing pictures.

I'll see if I can find you the right gear on Amazon ...

mat: 18"x24" is a comfortable size, though I have a bigger one for cutting certain things.

https://smile.amazon.com/US-Art-Supply-Professional-Scrapbooking/dp/B00L5I8RII/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2E8DWL9PF3MCS&keywords=quilter%27s%2Bcutting%2Bmat&qid=1661408144&sprefix=quilter%27s%2Bcuttin%2Caps%2C4002&sr=8-1-spons&smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB&th=1

cutter -- Fiskars, that's the one. Be sure not to cut yourself. It's wicked sharp. Not a bad idea to have a spare blade in case you get a ding on the first one.

https://smile.amazon.com/Fiskars-Classic-Stick-Rotary-Cutter/dp/B005NAG9BQ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=5T3PHXCW7SCW&keywords=rotary+cutter&qid=1661408238&sprefix=rotary+cutter%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-5

You all seem awfully negative about the possibilities. Having done the replacement job several times, I don't think it should really be all that awful, assuming the piano doesn't have any other major technical issues.??

Just get ecsaine, remove the corfam, glue on the ecsaine. Putting some white glue on the piece of ecsaine, and one drop of CA glue on the catch will enable the glue to set up very quickly, saving you any need for clamping. For the hammer butt, where the jack will slide along, it's best to glue the ends. Put one drop of CA down near the butt felt, being careful not to wet it, glue on that end, once they all have set up, you can put another drop up near the other end, pull on the ecsaine (a modest amount of white glue on it), and stick it down. Of course it's easier with the hammer assemblies out, which means a spacing issue putting them back in. You can make that easier if you do a light hammer filing while they are out.

A Baldwin Hamilton isn't all that bad an upright, except for the corfam. The corfam isn't the company's fault. It was a crazy time, which suede in women's garments was all the rage, and the cost of the leather went through the roof. A Baldwin Hamilton from that era can be a good workhorse for a piano teacher. And you won't get any more of this quality of Baldwin, given that they went bankrupt, changed hands, and the factory moved to China. China has so many difficulties, mostly chronic, that the future of that factory is in grave doubt. Best to save what we have, and some corfam shouldn't stop us dead in our tracks.

Peter, maybe you can tell me. I did have an art teacher once who talked about "Drawring" but didn't talk that way otherwise. Boston approach?

Baldwin used to send out packets of precut ecsaine for this repair when the pianos were still under warranty. The pieces for both places were the same dimensions. Schaff's ecsaine also comes in two thicknesses. My guess (purely a guess) would be that the thinner version is probably the right one.

You can figure out what size you need by removing a hammer assembly, taking off the corfam carefully, and measuring. Then make samples of ecsaine, and install them to see if they are right.

The best way to make the right sized pieces from a bulk sheet is to buy a quilter's cutting mat (green with yellow lines on it) and a rotary cutter. You'll need a very good metal straight edge. I have a great one, metal, was intended to be a carpet installer's stair tool. I had it for cutting mats when framing pictures.

I'll see if I can find you the right gear on Amazon ...

mat: 18"x24" is a comfortable size, though I have a bigger one for cutting certain things.

https://smile.amazon.com/US-Art-Supply-Professional-Scrapbooking/dp/B00L5I8RII/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2E8DWL9PF3MCS&keywords=quilter%27s%2Bcutting%2Bmat&qid=1661408144&sprefix=quilter%27s%2Bcuttin%2Caps%2C4002&sr=8-1-spons&smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB&th=1

cutter -- Fiskars, that's the one. Be sure not to cut yourself. It's wicked sharp. Not a bad idea to have a spare blade in case you get a ding on the first one.

https://smile.amazon.com/Fiskars-Classic-Stick-Rotary-Cutter/dp/B005NAG9BQ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=5T3PHXCW7SCW&keywords=rotary+cutter&qid=1661408238&sprefix=rotary+cutter%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-5

You all seem awfully negative about the possibilities. Having done the replacement job several times, I don't think it should really be all that awful, assuming the piano doesn't have any other major technical issues.??

Just get ecsaine, remove the corfam, glue on the ecsaine. Putting some white glue on the piece of ecsaine, and one drop of CA glue on the catch will enable the glue to set up very quickly, saving you any need for clamping. For the hammer butt, where the jack will slide along, it's best to glue the ends. Put one drop of CA down near the butt felt, being careful not to wet it, glue on that end, once they all have set up, you can put another drop up near the other end, pull on the ecsaine (a modest amount of white glue on it), and stick it down. Of course it's easier with the hammer assemblies out, which means a spacing issue putting them back in. You can make that easier if you do a light hammer filing while they are out.

A Baldwin Hamilton isn't all that bad an upright, except for the corfam. The corfam isn't the company's fault. It was a crazy time, which suede in women's garments was all the rage, and the cost of the leather went through the roof. A Baldwin Hamilton from that era can be a good workhorse for a piano teacher. And you won't get any more of this quality of Baldwin, given that they went bankrupt, changed hands, and the factory moved to China. China has so many difficulties, mostly chronic, that the future of that factory is in grave doubt. Best to save what we have, and some corfam shouldn't stop us dead in our tracks.

Peter, maybe you can tell me. I did have an art teacher once who talked about "Drawring" but didn't talk that way otherwise. Boston approach?

Baldwin used to send out packets of precut ecsaine for this repair when the pianos were still under warranty. The pieces for both places were the same dimensions. Schaff's ecsaine also comes in two thicknesses. My guess (purely a guess) would be that the thinner version is probably the right one.

You can figure out what size you need by removing a hammer assembly, taking off the corfam carefully, and measuring. Then make samples of ecsaine, and install them to see if they are right.

The best way to make the right sized pieces from a bulk sheet is to buy a quilter's cutting mat (green with yellow lines on it) and a rotary cutter. You'll need a very good metal straight edge. I have a great one, metal, was intended to be a carpet installer's stair tool. I had it for cutting mats when framing pictures.

I'll see if I can find you the right gear on Amazon ...

mat: 18"x24" is a comfortable size, though I have a bigger one for cutting certain things.

https://smile.amazon.com/US-Art-Supply-Professional-Scrapbooking/dp/B00L5I8RII/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2E8DWL9PF3MCS&keywords=quilter%27s%2Bcutting%2Bmat&qid=1661408144&sprefix=quilter%27s%2Bcuttin%2Caps%2C4002&sr=8-1-spons&smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB&th=1

cutter -- Fiskars, that's the one. Be sure not to cut yourself. It's wicked sharp. Not a bad idea to have a spare blade in case you get a ding on the first one.

https://smile.amazon.com/Fiskars-Classic-Stick-Rotary-Cutter/dp/B005NAG9BQ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=5T3PHXCW7SCW&keywords=rotary+cutter&qid=1661408238&sprefix=rotary+cutter%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-5

You all seem awfully negative about the possibilities. Having done the replacement job several times, I don't think it should really be all that awful, assuming the piano doesn't have any other major technical issues.??

Just get ecsaine, remove the corfam, glue on the ecsaine. Putting some white glue on the piece of ecsaine, and one drop of CA glue on the catch will enable the glue to set up very quickly, saving you any need for clamping. For the hammer butt, where the jack will slide along, it's best to glue the ends. Put one drop of CA down near the butt felt, being careful not to wet it, glue on that end, once they all have set up, you can put another drop up near the other end, pull on the ecsaine (a modest amount of white glue on it), and stick it down. Of course it's easier with the hammer assemblies out, which means a spacing issue putting them back in. You can make that easier if you do a light hammer filing while they are out.

A Baldwin Hamilton isn't all that bad an upright, except for the corfam. The corfam isn't the company's fault. It was a crazy time, which suede in women's garments was all the rage, and the cost of the leather went through the roof. A Baldwin Hamilton from that era can be a good workhorse for a piano teacher. And you won't get any more of this quality of Baldwin, given that they went bankrupt, changed hands, and the factory moved to China. China has so many difficulties, mostly chronic, that the future of that factory is in grave doubt. Best to save what we have, and some corfam shouldn't stop us dead in our tracks.

Hi, Peter

I had no idea! I didn't know it was associated with a locality.

I will say this -- a lot of pianos made in Boston in the golden age are wicked good, like a certain 1919 Vose upright I've been happy to tune once a year for a long time.

Peter, maybe you can tell me. I did have an art teacher once who talked about "Drawring" but didn't talk that way otherwise. Boston approach?

Baldwin used to send out packets of precut ecsaine for this repair when the pianos were still under warranty. The pieces for both places were the same dimensions. Schaff's ecsaine also comes in two thicknesses. My guess (purely a guess) would be that the thinner version is probably the right one.

You can figure out what size you need by removing a hammer assembly, taking off the corfam carefully, and measuring. Then make samples of ecsaine, and install them to see if they are right.

The best way to make the right sized pieces from a bulk sheet is to buy a quilter's cutting mat (green with yellow lines on it) and a rotary cutter. You'll need a very good metal straight edge. I have a great one, metal, was intended to be a carpet installer's stair tool. I had it for cutting mats when framing pictures.

I'll see if I can find you the right gear on Amazon ...

mat: 18"x24" is a comfortable size, though I have a bigger one for cutting certain things.

https://smile.amazon.com/US-Art-Supply-Professional-Scrapbooking/dp/B00L5I8RII/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2E8DWL9PF3MCS&keywords=quilter%27s%2Bcutting%2Bmat&qid=1661408144&sprefix=quilter%27s%2Bcuttin%2Caps%2C4002&sr=8-1-spons&smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB&th=1

cutter -- Fiskars, that's the one. Be sure not to cut yourself. It's wicked sharp. Not a bad idea to have a spare blade in case you get a ding on the first one.

https://smile.amazon.com/Fiskars-Classic-Stick-Rotary-Cutter/dp/B005NAG9BQ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=5T3PHXCW7SCW&keywords=rotary+cutter&qid=1661408238&sprefix=rotary+cutter%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-5

You all seem awfully negative about the possibilities. Having done the replacement job several times, I don't think it should really be all that awful, assuming the piano doesn't have any other major technical issues.??

Just get ecsaine, remove the corfam, glue on the ecsaine. Putting some white glue on the piece of ecsaine, and one drop of CA glue on the catch will enable the glue to set up very quickly, saving you any need for clamping. For the hammer butt, where the jack will slide along, it's best to glue the ends. Put one drop of CA down near the butt felt, being careful not to wet it, glue on that end, once they all have set up, you can put another drop up near the other end, pull on the ecsaine (a modest amount of white glue on it), and stick it down. Of course it's easier with the hammer assemblies out, which means a spacing issue putting them back in. You can make that easier if you do a light hammer filing while they are out.

A Baldwin Hamilton isn't all that bad an upright, except for the corfam. The corfam isn't the company's fault. It was a crazy time, which suede in women's garments was all the rage, and the cost of the leather went through the roof. A Baldwin Hamilton from that era can be a good workhorse for a piano teacher. And you won't get any more of this quality of Baldwin, given that they went bankrupt, changed hands, and the factory moved to China. China has so many difficulties, mostly chronic, that the future of that factory is in grave doubt. Best to save what we have, and some corfam shouldn't stop us dead in our tracks.

You all seem awfully negative about the possibilities. Having done the replacement job several times, I don't think it should really be all that awful, assuming the piano doesn't have any other major technical issues.??

Just get ecsaine, remove the corfam, glue on the ecsaine. Putting some white glue on the piece of ecsaine, and one drop of CA glue on the catch will enable the glue to set up very quickly, saving you any need for clamping. For the hammer butt, where the jack will slide along, it's best to glue the ends. Put one drop of CA down near the butt felt, being careful not to wet it, glue on that end, once they all have set up, you can put another drop up near the other end, pull on the ecsaine (a modest amount of white glue on it), and stick it down. Of course it's easier with the hammer assemblies out, which means a spacing issue putting them back in. You can make that easier if you do a light hammer filing while they are out.

A Baldwin Hamilton isn't all that bad an upright, except for the corfam. The corfam isn't the company's fault. It was a crazy time, which suede in women's garments was all the rage, and the cost of the leather went through the roof. A Baldwin Hamilton from that era can be a good workhorse for a piano teacher. And you won't get any more of this quality of Baldwin, given that they went bankrupt, changed hands, and the factory moved to China. China has so many difficulties, mostly chronic, that the future of that factory is in grave doubt. Best to save what we have, and some corfam shouldn't stop us dead in our tracks.

You all seem awfully negative about the possibilities. Having done the replacement job several times, I don't think it should really be all that awful, assuming the piano doesn't have any other major technical issues.??

Just get ecsaine, remove the corfam, glue on the ecsaine. Putting some white glue on the piece of ecsaine, and one drop of CA glue on the catch will enable the glue to set up very quickly, saving you any need for clamping. For the hammer butt, where the jack will slide along, it's best to glue the ends. Put one drop of CA down near the butt felt, being careful not to wet it, glue on that end, once they all have set up, you can put another drop up near the other end, pull on the ecsaine (a modest amount of white glue on it), and stick it down. Of course it's easier with the hammer assemblies out, which means a spacing issue putting them back in. You can make that easier if you do a light hammer filing while they are out.

A Baldwin Hamilton isn't all that bad an upright, except for the corfam. The corfam isn't the company's fault. It was a crazy time, which suede in women's garments was all the rage, and the cost of the leather went through the roof. A Baldwin Hamilton from that era can be a good workhorse for a piano teacher. And you won't get any more of this quality of Baldwin, given that they went bankrupt, changed hands, and the factory moved to China. China has so many difficulties, mostly chronic, that the future of that factory is in grave doubt. Best to save what we have, and some corfam shouldn't stop us dead in our tracks.

Ecsaine, with the c and s contrary to expectations. If I remember right, it was invented by the Japanese, which accounts for the somewhat strange spelling.

Ecsaine, with the c and s contrary to expectations. If I remember right, it was invented by the Japanese, which accounts for the somewhat strange spelling.