Pianotech

Hello,

I'm refurbishing my Knabe action (refurbishing everything but hammers, shanks, knuckles and flanges) and trying to figure out the dry lubricants I will need and how to apply them. I'm planning on using McLube 1725L for front and balance rail pins and PTFE powder on hammer knuckles unless you all have better alternative ideas. 😊 Is there any advantage to applying PTFE powder to key bushings in conjunction to the Mclube applied to the front and balance rail pins?  Any other advice?

 Thank you!

Hello,

I'm refurbishing my Knabe action (refurbishing everything but hammers, shanks, knuckles and flanges) and trying to figure out the dry lubricants I will need and how to apply them. I'm planning on using McLube 1725L for front and balance rail pins and PTFE powder on hammer knuckles unless you all have better alternative ideas. 😊 Is there any advantage to applying PTFE powder to key bushings in conjunction to the Mclube applied to the front and balance rail pins?  Any other advice?

 Thank you!

I am replacing the h/s/f, refurbishing the rest of the action.

Do you mean dry lube (such as graphite powder) instead of the aerosol variety?

Thanks!

Hello,

I'm refurbishing my Knabe action (refurbishing everything but hammers, shanks, knuckles and flanges) and trying to figure out the dry lubricants I will need and how to apply them. I'm planning on using McLube 1725L for front and balance rail pins and PTFE powder on hammer knuckles unless you all have better alternative ideas. 😊 Is there any advantage to applying PTFE powder to key bushings in conjunction to the Mclube applied to the front and balance rail pins?  Any other advice?

 Thank you!

No graphite powder in the action please except maybe on the dag contact points on the action frame!!!

Dry Teflon powder on the knuckles (no spray). I use Protek liquid on the key pins but you can use TFL 50, Mclube TFL 50 also good for the key bed and bottom of the key frame. 

I am replacing the h/s/f, refurbishing the rest of the action.

Do you mean dry lube (such as graphite powder) instead of the aerosol variety?

Thanks!

Hello,

I'm refurbishing my Knabe action (refurbishing everything but hammers, shanks, knuckles and flanges) and trying to figure out the dry lubricants I will need and how to apply them. I'm planning on using McLube 1725L for front and balance rail pins and PTFE powder on hammer knuckles unless you all have better alternative ideas. 😊 Is there any advantage to applying PTFE powder to key bushings in conjunction to the Mclube applied to the front and balance rail pins?  Any other advice?

 Thank you!

No graphite powder in the action please except maybe on the dag contact points on the action frame!!!

Dry Teflon powder on the knuckles (no spray). I use Protek liquid on the key pins but you can use TFL 50, Mclube TFL 50 also good for the key bed and bottom of the key frame. 

I am replacing the h/s/f, refurbishing the rest of the action.

Do you mean dry lube (such as graphite powder) instead of the aerosol variety?

Thanks!

Hello,

I'm refurbishing my Knabe action (refurbishing everything but hammers, shanks, knuckles and flanges) and trying to figure out the dry lubricants I will need and how to apply them. I'm planning on using McLube 1725L for front and balance rail pins and PTFE powder on hammer knuckles unless you all have better alternative ideas. 😊 Is there any advantage to applying PTFE powder to key bushings in conjunction to the Mclube applied to the front and balance rail pins?  Any other advice?

 Thank you!

Hi Keith

When I have actions in the shop I clean the pins with PT CLP which leaves a nice coating.  In filed I with tip the action on the back of the key frame and apply a drop or two to each pin and it certainly last until the next servicing and really longer.  I always lube key pins at each service call as pretty routine.  I also use TFL 50 with a fine spray nozzle and just spray it on the pins under the keys and that works too.  Very fast.  Whatever you use will wear off eventually and I don't think you want to put something on there that doesn't wear off actually as that means it's binding to the metal which probably isn't goo. Isn't the 444 a mold release formula.  I don't tend to use that (plus it stinks and can't be that good to breath).

I tend to use TFL-50 on the top of the jacks and balancier as well and usually to that at the same time a use powdered teflon (applied with a piece of hammer felt or a felt mute) to the knunckles.  Important, I think, not to spray TFL 50 on the knuckles directly as the carrier might harden the knuckle covering over time.

No graphite powder in the action please except maybe on the dag contact points on the action frame!!!

Dry Teflon powder on the knuckles (no spray). I use Protek liquid on the key pins but you can use TFL 50, Mclube TFL 50 also good for the key bed and bottom of the key frame. 

I am replacing the h/s/f, refurbishing the rest of the action.

Do you mean dry lube (such as graphite powder) instead of the aerosol variety?

Thanks!

Hello,

I'm refurbishing my Knabe action (refurbishing everything but hammers, shanks, knuckles and flanges) and trying to figure out the dry lubricants I will need and how to apply them. I'm planning on using McLube 1725L for front and balance rail pins and PTFE powder on hammer knuckles unless you all have better alternative ideas. 😊 Is there any advantage to applying PTFE powder to key bushings in conjunction to the Mclube applied to the front and balance rail pins?  Any other advice?

 Thank you!

Hi Keith

When I have actions in the shop I clean the pins with PT CLP which leaves a nice coating.  In filed I with tip the action on the back of the key frame and apply a drop or two to each pin and it certainly last until the next servicing and really longer.  I always lube key pins at each service call as pretty routine.  I also use TFL 50 with a fine spray nozzle and just spray it on the pins under the keys and that works too.  Very fast.  Whatever you use will wear off eventually and I don't think you want to put something on there that doesn't wear off actually as that means it's binding to the metal which probably isn't goo. Isn't the 444 a mold release formula.  I don't tend to use that (plus it stinks and can't be that good to breath).

I tend to use TFL-50 on the top of the jacks and balancier as well and usually to that at the same time a use powdered teflon (applied with a piece of hammer felt or a felt mute) to the knunckles.  Important, I think, not to spray TFL 50 on the knuckles directly as the carrier might harden the knuckle covering over time.

No graphite powder in the action please except maybe on the dag contact points on the action frame!!!

Dry Teflon powder on the knuckles (no spray). I use Protek liquid on the key pins but you can use TFL 50, Mclube TFL 50 also good for the key bed and bottom of the key frame. 

I am replacing the h/s/f, refurbishing the rest of the action.

Do you mean dry lube (such as graphite powder) instead of the aerosol variety?

Thanks!

Hello,

I'm refurbishing my Knabe action (refurbishing everything but hammers, shanks, knuckles and flanges) and trying to figure out the dry lubricants I will need and how to apply them. I'm planning on using McLube 1725L for front and balance rail pins and PTFE powder on hammer knuckles unless you all have better alternative ideas. 😊 Is there any advantage to applying PTFE powder to key bushings in conjunction to the Mclube applied to the front and balance rail pins?  Any other advice?

 Thank you!

Hi Keith

When I have actions in the shop I clean the pins with PT CLP which leaves a nice coating.  In filed I with tip the action on the back of the key frame and apply a drop or two to each pin and it certainly last until the next servicing and really longer.  I always lube key pins at each service call as pretty routine.  I also use TFL 50 with a fine spray nozzle and just spray it on the pins under the keys and that works too.  Very fast.  Whatever you use will wear off eventually and I don't think you want to put something on there that doesn't wear off actually as that means it's binding to the metal which probably isn't goo. Isn't the 444 a mold release formula.  I don't tend to use that (plus it stinks and can't be that good to breath).

I tend to use TFL-50 on the top of the jacks and balancier as well and usually to that at the same time a use powdered teflon (applied with a piece of hammer felt or a felt mute) to the knunckles.  Important, I think, not to spray TFL 50 on the knuckles directly as the carrier might harden the knuckle covering over time.

No graphite powder in the action please except maybe on the dag contact points on the action frame!!!

Dry Teflon powder on the knuckles (no spray). I use Protek liquid on the key pins but you can use TFL 50, Mclube TFL 50 also good for the key bed and bottom of the key frame. 

I am replacing the h/s/f, refurbishing the rest of the action.

Do you mean dry lube (such as graphite powder) instead of the aerosol variety?

Thanks!

Hello,

I'm refurbishing my Knabe action (refurbishing everything but hammers, shanks, knuckles and flanges) and trying to figure out the dry lubricants I will need and how to apply them. I'm planning on using McLube 1725L for front and balance rail pins and PTFE powder on hammer knuckles unless you all have better alternative ideas. 😊 Is there any advantage to applying PTFE powder to key bushings in conjunction to the Mclube applied to the front and balance rail pins?  Any other advice?

 Thank you!

Hello,

I'm refurbishing my Knabe action (refurbishing everything but hammers, shanks, knuckles and flanges) and trying to figure out the dry lubricants I will need and how to apply them. I'm planning on using McLube 1725L for front and balance rail pins and PTFE powder on hammer knuckles unless you all have better alternative ideas. 😊 Is there any advantage to applying PTFE powder to key bushings in conjunction to the Mclube applied to the front and balance rail pins?  Any other advice?

 Thank you!

What is refurbishing?

Hello,

I'm refurbishing my Knabe action (refurbishing everything but hammers, shanks, knuckles and flanges) and trying to figure out the dry lubricants I will need and how to apply them. I'm planning on using McLube 1725L for front and balance rail pins and PTFE powder on hammer knuckles unless you all have better alternative ideas. 😊 Is there any advantage to applying PTFE powder to key bushings in conjunction to the Mclube applied to the front and balance rail pins?  Any other advice?

 Thank you!

By refurbishing I mean using the original parts repaired/cleaned etc. I am replacing the h/s/f.

What is refurbishing?

Hello,

I'm refurbishing my Knabe action (refurbishing everything but hammers, shanks, knuckles and flanges) and trying to figure out the dry lubricants I will need and how to apply them. I'm planning on using McLube 1725L for front and balance rail pins and PTFE powder on hammer knuckles unless you all have better alternative ideas. 😊 Is there any advantage to applying PTFE powder to key bushings in conjunction to the Mclube applied to the front and balance rail pins?  Any other advice?

 Thank you!

Hello,

I'm refurbishing my Knabe action (refurbishing everything but hammers, shanks, knuckles and flanges) and trying to figure out the dry lubricants I will need and how to apply them. I'm planning on using McLube 1725L for front and balance rail pins and PTFE powder on hammer knuckles unless you all have better alternative ideas. 😊 Is there any advantage to applying PTFE powder to key bushings in conjunction to the Mclube applied to the front and balance rail pins?  Any other advice?

 Thank you!

Edit: for clarity, I'm replacing hammers, shanks, knuckles and flanges.

------------------------------
Tim Foster
New Oxford PA
(470) 231-6074
------------------------------

Have you replaced the soundboard and pinblock?

Hello,

I'm refurbishing my Knabe action (refurbishing everything but hammers, shanks, knuckles and flanges) and trying to figure out the dry lubricants I will need and how to apply them. I'm planning on using McLube 1725L for front and balance rail pins and PTFE powder on hammer knuckles unless you all have better alternative ideas. 😊 Is there any advantage to applying PTFE powder to key bushings in conjunction to the Mclube applied to the front and balance rail pins?  Any other advice?

 Thank you!

Edit: for clarity, I'm replacing hammers, shanks, knuckles and flanges.

------------------------------
Tim Foster
New Oxford PA
(470) 231-6074
------------------------------

Soundboard was shimmed and refinished, new pinblock.

------------------------------
Tim Foster
New Oxford PA
(470) 231-6074

Original Message:
Sent: 05-06-2023 21:24
From: Parker Leigh
Subject: Dry lubricants

Have you replaced the soundboard and pinblock?

------------------------------
Parker Leigh
Winchester VA
(540) 722-3865

Original Message:
Sent: 05-06-2023 15:02
From: Tim Foster
Subject: Dry lubricants

Hello,

I'm refurbishing my Knabe action (refurbishing everything but hammers, shanks, knuckles and flanges) and trying to figure out the dry lubricants I will need and how to apply them. I'm planning on using McLube 1725L for front and balance rail pins and PTFE powder on hammer knuckles unless you all have better alternative ideas. 😊 Is there any advantage to applying PTFE powder to key bushings in conjunction to the Mclube applied to the front and balance rail pins?  Any other advice?

 Thank you!

Edit: for clarity, I'm replacing hammers, shanks, knuckles and flanges.

------------------------------
Tim Foster
New Oxford PA
(470) 231-6074
------------------------------

So about three weeks ago I was in conversation with Yamaha support about lubricating the action.  On a new Yamaha GB1K I was told not to use micro teflon powder on the knuckles.  It am not sure of the reasoning as I have done that for years.  I had already applied it and was told to use stiff felt to rub it off.

When I apply the teflon powder I burnish it in with something like a popsicle stick and then vacuum the residue off.

Yamaha told me to use Clear McLube sprayed on top of the wippen jack instead.  One pass will last about a year, but a second pass on the dried first pass will last 10 years.  Since the first pass dries almost immediately it doesn't really add much time to the process.  The two pass method is something they recommend any time the Clear McLube is sprayed on anything.

------------------------------
Tim Coates RPT
Sioux Falls SD

Original Message:
Sent: 05-06-2023 21:40
From: Tim Foster
Subject: Dry lubricants

Soundboard was shimmed and refinished, new pinblock.

------------------------------
Tim Foster
New Oxford PA
(470) 231-6074

Original Message:
Sent: 05-06-2023 21:24
From: Parker Leigh
Subject: Dry lubricants

Have you replaced the soundboard and pinblock?

------------------------------
Parker Leigh
Winchester VA
(540) 722-3865

Original Message:
Sent: 05-06-2023 15:02
From: Tim Foster
Subject: Dry lubricants

Hello,

I'm refurbishing my Knabe action (refurbishing everything but hammers, shanks, knuckles and flanges) and trying to figure out the dry lubricants I will need and how to apply them. I'm planning on using McLube 1725L for front and balance rail pins and PTFE powder on hammer knuckles unless you all have better alternative ideas. 😊 Is there any advantage to applying PTFE powder to key bushings in conjunction to the Mclube applied to the front and balance rail pins?  Any other advice?

 Thank you!

Edit: for clarity, I'm replacing hammers, shanks, knuckles and flanges.

------------------------------
Tim Foster
New Oxford PA
(470) 231-6074
------------------------------

Looking at the McLube web site, I find nothing that was Clear.
Both the McLube 444A and the 1725L are clear and come in a spray.
From the write up on their site, the 1725L would be the one they probably are referring to.
Is that the Clear that was mentioned? 

So about three weeks ago I was in conversation with Yamaha support about lubricating the action.  On a new Yamaha GB1K I was told not to use micro teflon powder on the knuckles.  It am not sure of the reasoning as I have done that for years.  I had already applied it and was told to use stiff felt to rub it off.

When I apply the teflon powder I burnish it in with something like a popsicle stick and then vacuum the residue off.

Yamaha told me to use Clear McLube sprayed on top of the wippen jack instead.  One pass will last about a year, but a second pass on the dried first pass will last 10 years.  Since the first pass dries almost immediately it doesn't really add much time to the process.  The two pass method is something they recommend any time the Clear McLube is sprayed on anything.

------------------------------
Tim Coates RPT
Sioux Falls SD

Original Message:
Sent: 05-06-2023 21:40
From: Tim Foster
Subject: Dry lubricants

Soundboard was shimmed and refinished, new pinblock.

------------------------------
Tim Foster
New Oxford PA
(470) 231-6074

Original Message:
Sent: 05-06-2023 21:24
From: Parker Leigh
Subject: Dry lubricants

Have you replaced the soundboard and pinblock?

------------------------------
Parker Leigh
Winchester VA
(540) 722-3865

Original Message:
Sent: 05-06-2023 15:02
From: Tim Foster
Subject: Dry lubricants

Hello,

I'm refurbishing my Knabe action (refurbishing everything but hammers, shanks, knuckles and flanges) and trying to figure out the dry lubricants I will need and how to apply them. I'm planning on using McLube 1725L for front and balance rail pins and PTFE powder on hammer knuckles unless you all have better alternative ideas. 😊 Is there any advantage to applying PTFE powder to key bushings in conjunction to the Mclube applied to the front and balance rail pins?  Any other advice?

 Thank you!

Edit: for clarity, I'm replacing hammers, shanks, knuckles and flanges.

------------------------------
Tim Foster
New Oxford PA
(470) 231-6074
------------------------------