I also cast my vote for thin CA. CA actually has a relatively weak shear strength so you can still extract the head later if they need to be replaced. Just rotate the hammers all the way up and put a drop right on the top of the shank where it is cut. Thin CA glue is so penetrating, it should go right into the joint. Carl was spot on: don't bother with accelerator. It will just seal the top and if you needed to add some later it might prevent it from penetrating.
As far as noisy actions go, I have found it can be a combination of several areas where old felt gets hard and noisy: Back rail cloth, knuckles, wippen cushions, key bushings, worn balance holes, even felt on the jack regulating button. I've had some moderate success going through and brushing/needling these areas. It's always a good idea to pick one of the noisiest notes and see if you can get that one to quiet down. You might discover what the hierarchy of noise is and where most of the improvement can come from.
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Ryan Sowers RPT
Olympia WA
(360) 480-5648
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Original Message:
Sent: 08-17-2023 11:48
From: Joe Wiencek
Subject: Regluing Loose Hammerheads
I second Blaine's approach, I have not had the best luck with CA for a lasting repair (and easy to drip down the tail and create a slick surface that doesn't catch so well on the back check.)
Joe Wiencek
Original Message:
Sent: 8/16/2023 2:07:00 AM
From: Blaine Hebert
Subject: RE: Regluing Loose Hammerheads
Terry,
When I have one or a few loose hammers I extract the hammers and reglue, usually with Titebond. When I have more than a few I dillute Titebond (or Elmers) with water and apply to the joints with a dropper. On some occasions I have used a thin hide glue with good success. I perfer this to CA glue myself - not trying to be a Luddite, I just have had better luck with dilluted glues and they are easier to clean up.
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Blaine Hebert RPT
Duarte CA
(626) 795-5170
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