For me the easiest and best is a couple of drops of thin CA glue. I rotate the hammer up so it is straight up. Put the drops on edge of the shank. Gravity will pull it into the space. Don’t use accelerator to let it work itself in. Always ends the click. The hammer stays in its alignment. Taking the hammer off and regluing leaves room for mis-alignment.
Original Message:
Sent: 8/16/2023 4:38:00 PM
From: Benjamin Sanchez
Subject: RE: Regluing Loose Hammerheads
Hi Terry,
Sorry, I should have been a little more specific. I apply the glue where the shank enters the hammer molding. The idea is to essentially reinforce the glue collar. The glue is thin enough that it will work into whatever crack there is and seal it up, and your finger helps to get it in there. I've been using this method for years and haven't seen negative side effects. Of course, if the original glue collar is gone or disintegrated, you'll need to form a new one properly. But often the hammer will start clicking long before that point, which is where this method comes in.
------------------------------
Benjamin Sanchez, RPT
Piano Technician / Artisan
(256) 947-9999
www.professional-piano-services.com
------------------------------
Original Message:
Sent: 08-16-2023 09:49
From: Terrence Farrell
Subject: Regluing Loose Hammerheads
Benjamin S. wrote: "I get a drop on my finger and apply it to the hammerhead where it touches the shank"
Where it touches the shank? Exactly where is that? On the cut shank side of the hammer moulding or the side where the shank enters the hammer moulding? Seems like it would be difficult to get the glue into the joint like that.
------------------------------
Terry Farrell
Farrell Piano Service, Inc.
Brandon, Florida
terry@farrellpiano.com
813-684-3505
Original Message:
Sent: 08-15-2023 23:51
From: Benjamin Sanchez
Subject: Regluing Loose Hammerheads
Hi Terry,
I don't use CA glue for hammers. I want something reversible. This job can be done very quickly and efficiently with TiteBond Quick-N-Thick. I get a drop on my finger and apply it to the hammerhead where it touches the shank, then repeat on the next one. When it dries the clicking's gone. Doing the whole set usually only takes half an hour or so, and the piano's ready to be tuned by the time you're done. Good luck!
------------------------------
Benjamin Sanchez, RPT
Piano Technician / Artisan
(256) 947-9999
www.professional-piano-services.com
Original Message:
Sent: 08-15-2023 10:38
From: Terrence Farrell
Subject: Regluing Loose Hammerheads
I have a customer (church) with a 1960 Kawai no. 750 (7'4"). It is generally is so-so ok-ish shape for a 63 year old piano. Pianist complained about action noise - clicking. Hammers in the reported clicking range (about E4 through E6) are loose. I don't think the church wants to spend much money on this piano at this time.
I'm looking for a quick/cheap way to address the loose hammer heads. What is the latest on quick regluing of hammers - thin CA - just a drop or two and let it wick its way in (align first, of course!)?
My thinking was to just reglue the hammers and see how the action sounds. I won't be surprised if the pianist is happy with that improvement. However, the entire action makes a good bit of noise - mostly when a key is released. This piano has whipped assist springs. I don't have much experience with them. The springs hold the whippens up when a hammer is raised. Is that normal (I'm guessing, yes)? There is a clunk when the whippen heel hits the capstan and when the knuckle hits the repetition lever. Is there anything that can be done to reduce that noise short of replacing knuckles and whippen heel cloth?
------------------------------
Terry Farrell
Farrell Piano Service, Inc.
Brandon, Florida
terry@farrellpiano.com
813-684-3505
------------------------------