Pianotech

Hello Wim,

That's interesting. I honestly haven't had much luck with thin CA glue for wood-to-wood applications. I'd be a little worried about making it harder to use wood glue in the future if the repair didn't work, but if it does work, that would certainly be the easiest and most economical for the client.

Hello Wim,

That's interesting. I honestly haven't had much luck with thin CA glue for wood-to-wood applications. I'd be a little worried about making it harder to use wood glue in the future if the repair didn't work, but if it does work, that would certainly be the easiest and most economical for the client.

I have seen many instances where the separation is so stiff that you can not apply enough pressure  to properly secure that gap.   Screwing in from the back is the way to go.  Removing some tension is useful here.  After full cure you can remove screw and then drill out to plug the screw hole with dowel and sand smooth for looks preservation. This method Won't interfere with future technicians as much as others.  Have fun - don't promise any results...

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Matthew Walworth
A.M.O. Pianos
Lebanon, TN 37087
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Have you checked downbearing at that point? I like the idea of replacing the screw with a dowel.

I have seen many instances where the separation is so stiff that you can not apply enough pressure  to properly secure that gap.   Screwing in from the back is the way to go.  Removing some tension is useful here.  After full cure you can remove screw and then drill out to plug the screw hole with dowel and sand smooth for looks preservation. This method Won't interfere with future technicians as much as others.  Have fun - don't promise any results...

------------------------------
Matthew Walworth
A.M.O. Pianos
Lebanon, TN 37087

I recommend doing it right.  I have had poor experience with CA glue and Titebond is quite reliable.

Personally I would run a very small pilot hole through the bridge from the front to get an accurate location for my wood screw, then carefully pilot the screw hole from the back with a correct sized screw (remember, you are going into maple).  I would use a very thin pallet knife to spread glue around, then I would use a soundboard button to make my job look as "factory" as possible.

If the customer doesn't want to pay, then CA glue...

I notice the bridge was cut for trichords but they used wound bichords. Are there extra tuning pins as well?

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Steven Rosenthal RPT
Honolulu HI
(808) 521-7129
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Original Message:
Sent: 04-08-2026 01:04
From: Blaine Hebert
Subject: Yamaha console tenor bridge unglued

I recommend doing it right.  I have had poor experience with CA glue and Titebond is quite reliable.

Personally I would run a very small pilot hole through the bridge from the front to get an accurate location for my wood screw, then carefully pilot the screw hole from the back with a correct sized screw (remember, you are going into maple).  I would use a very thin pallet knife to spread glue around, then I would use a soundboard button to make my job look as "factory" as possible.

If the customer doesn't want to pay, then CA glue...

------------------------------
Blaine Hebert RPT
Duarte CA
(626) 390-0512

Peter-

I'm not sure your diagnosis established that the problem is caused by the slight gap between the bridge and the soundboard.

The wound strings at the end of the bridge tend to sound different from their neighbors.

You might consider voicing the hammers for those two notes and see if that solves the problem.

Hi Ed,

You are correct that this repair will not definitively solve the client's problem, and she is aware of that. I did do some voicing, but that didn't seem to help. The only thing that seemed to help was pressing on the bridge. My "quick fix" was wedging a few felt mutes between a plate strut and the bridge, which seemed to help, but not 100%.

Also, the worst offender for her was A3, which is not a wound string.

Peter-

I'm not sure your diagnosis established that the problem is caused by the slight gap between the bridge and the soundboard.

The wound strings at the end of the bridge tend to sound different from their neighbors.

You might consider voicing the hammers for those two notes and see if that solves the problem.

Peter, it's hard when someone is hearing something you don't. One thing I would ask if you haven't already, is 'when' they are hearing the high frequencies, on the attack or when they lift their finger up. Perhaps it's the dampers and fluffing them up a little with solve the problem. 

Hi Ed,

You are correct that this repair will not definitively solve the client's problem, and she is aware of that. I did do some voicing, but that didn't seem to help. The only thing that seemed to help was pressing on the bridge. My "quick fix" was wedging a few felt mutes between a plate strut and the bridge, which seemed to help, but not 100%.

Also, the worst offender for her was A3, which is not a wound string.

Peter-

I'm not sure your diagnosis established that the problem is caused by the slight gap between the bridge and the soundboard.

The wound strings at the end of the bridge tend to sound different from their neighbors.

You might consider voicing the hammers for those two notes and see if that solves the problem.

Peter,

If you have not already done so, you might want to check carefully to see if the soundboard might also be separating from the "rim", perhaps in the same general area as the bridge is separating. 

Peter Grey Piano Doctor 

Peter, it's hard when someone is hearing something you don't. One thing I would ask if you haven't already, is 'when' they are hearing the high frequencies, on the attack or when they lift their finger up. Perhaps it's the dampers and fluffing them up a little with solve the problem. 

Hi Ed,

You are correct that this repair will not definitively solve the client's problem, and she is aware of that. I did do some voicing, but that didn't seem to help. The only thing that seemed to help was pressing on the bridge. My "quick fix" was wedging a few felt mutes between a plate strut and the bridge, which seemed to help, but not 100%.

Also, the worst offender for her was A3, which is not a wound string.

Peter-

I'm not sure your diagnosis established that the problem is caused by the slight gap between the bridge and the soundboard.

The wound strings at the end of the bridge tend to sound different from their neighbors.

You might consider voicing the hammers for those two notes and see if that solves the problem.

Peter, it's hard when someone is hearing something you don't. One thing I would ask if you haven't already, is 'when' they are hearing the high frequencies, on the attack or when they lift their finger up. Perhaps it's the dampers and fluffing them up a little with solve the problem. 

Hi Ed,

You are correct that this repair will not definitively solve the client's problem, and she is aware of that. I did do some voicing, but that didn't seem to help. The only thing that seemed to help was pressing on the bridge. My "quick fix" was wedging a few felt mutes between a plate strut and the bridge, which seemed to help, but not 100%.

Also, the worst offender for her was A3, which is not a wound string.

Peter-

I'm not sure your diagnosis established that the problem is caused by the slight gap between the bridge and the soundboard.

The wound strings at the end of the bridge tend to sound different from their neighbors.

You might consider voicing the hammers for those two notes and see if that solves the problem.